Denim 3e6s20

What is Denim? Why it’s called Denim? Denim is a durable cotton twill textile, typically used to make jeans, overalls, and other clothing. To create denim fabric, the weft (horizontal threads) es under two or more warps (vertical threads) threads. This process makes diagonal ribbing of denim that distinguishes it from cotton duck, another twill fabric. The name "denim" derives from French serge de Nîmes, meaning 'serge from Nîmes‘ - serge material from Nimes, a town in . Historically, originally called serge de Nîmes, lending itself to the name “de Nim” then shortened to Denim. This fabric was not the cotton denim we know today. It was a blend of silk and wool. Today’s all- cotton denim was first created in England and later perfected in mills in America.

Properties of Denim Fabric: Denim is very strong & durable. It is feeling hard during wearing. Denim fabric creases easily. It is warp-faced twill, the colored warp yarns predominate on the face & the white weft yarns on the back. Usually the warp is colored & weft is white. It is used for long time wearing.

Jeans & Denim? Denim is the name of the fabric that is used to make jeans. It is a fabric made of cotton twill that is 100% cotton and very comfortable. This fabric is used all over the world to make jeans, jackets, shirts, purses, bags, and many other accessories for men and women of all ages.

Types of Denim

Types of Denim : According to variants NAME

DESCRIPTION

Raw denim or dry denim:

Raw denim or dry denim is not washed after being dyed during its production

Selvedge denim

It forms a clean natural edge that does not unravel. This type of denim is more expensive as compared to other types of denims

Organic denim

Organic denim is manufactured from 100% organic cotton. To make organic denim, all types of chemical are excluded. Potato starch is used instead of chemicals

Stretch denim

To manufacture stretch denim 2 to 3% spandex material are used. So it allows to move more freely than other denim fabrics. It is widely used to make women jeans.

FIGURE

NAME

DESCRIPTION

Poly denim

It is lightweight and easy to wash and dry. It is comfortable to wear. This fabric is more resistant to wrinkling.

Ramie cotton denim

Ramie denim is blended with other fabrics such as cotton, polyester and spandex. Which reduces wrinkling and it keeps its shape. This denim has a silky luster look

Cotton serge denim

Serge denim is considered as traditional type denim. It is made with 100% cotton serge. Serge is actually a fabric having a diagonal pattern.

Colored denim

Colored denim is manufactured with dyed yarn either warp or weft.

FIGURE

NAME

DESCRIPTION

Bubblegum denim

Bubble gum denim is lycra containing denim that has between 35 to 50% stretch.

Denim from fox fiber

This denim fabric manufactured by colored cotton fiber. Developed and patented by California cotton breeder, Salley Fox.

Ecru denim

Denim that has not been dyed indigo. This denim contains single color yarn (mostly gray colored yarn is used) in its weft and wrap

Vintage denim

Vintage denim is old looked denim. Normal denim is treated with stone wash or organic enzyme cellulose wash with bleach results in torn and old looking texture over a denim.

FIGURE

NAME

DESCRIPTION

Marble denim

This is also called acid washed denim. Marble denim is washed with a strong bleach solution.

Bull denim

A heavy weight denim weave (14oz. Plus). Bull denim is durable and heavy. This denim is perfect for slipcovers, upholstery, draperies, pillow covers, headboards and much more.

Printed denim

That has been printed with a pattern-a batik, stripe or floral.

Slub denim

Slub denim is denim that has been woven using uneven or slub yarn for both the warp and weft threads. It is a more rare type of denim and develops a unique crisscrossed pattern as it fades. It is also called crosshatch denim.

FIGURE

Manufacturing process of denim

Manufacturing Terminology: Yarn Spinning: Currently, it is possible to obtain different types of thread in the denim yarn market, according to the manufacturing system used: • Rotor or Open-End (OE) System • Ring System • Compact System (advanced system) Properties Lower count and coarse yarn is used for denim making. Opening and mixing or blending of cotton fibers. Carding is done to remove any foreign materials and the short fibers. Drawing process produces a single, uniform sliver from a number of carded slivers. Yarn is then spun through Open-End Spinning or Ring Spinning.

Warp Preparation - Dyeing and Sizing: Dyeing: Warp yarns are indigo dyed and sized with the help of some methods: Indigo Rope dyeing: There are some stages in indigo rope dyeing. They are: 1.Ball warping. 2.Dyeing. 3. drying. 4.Rebeaming. 5.beaming. 6.Sizing Indigo sheet dyeing: Threads from several back beams are combined to form a warp sheet and dyed then sized on slasher machine Indigo loop dyeing: The yarn is dyed in a single bath instead of several. The desired depth of color is attained by ing the yarn through the vat several times then sized on the same machine.

FIG: Indigo sheet dyeing (slasher m/c)

Sizing: The Sizing Process enables the yarn to survive the extreme mechanical stress during weaving without damage. Only the warp yarn has to be sized. In the denim production this sizing process can be carried out continuously linked to the dyeing process on sheet or slasher dyeing machine or by using the rope dying machine. The aim of this process : •Protect the yarn from friction •Prevent the warp threads from entangling or sticking to each other •Increase the tensile strength to avoid breakages in the loom •Reduce fiber dusting (formation of fiber clusters) •Facilitate the use of a single yarn •Achieved soft handle, excellent final appearance.

Weaving: The weaving process interlaces the warp, which are the length-wise indigo dyed yarn and the filling, which are white in color. Airjet, Rapier, or a Projectile weaving m/c used. The most common weave structures made by using plane looms are: • Twill • Taffeta • Sateen Twill weave is normally used in denim, such as 3/1. A common way to read a fraction like 3/1 twill it is “three up, one down”.

Finishing : The final woven fabric, wound on a cloth roll. The woven Denim Fabrics then goes through various finishing processes. Generally, finishing processes can be divided into the following groups: • Denim fabric finishing • Denim garment finishing

Unbrushed

Denim Fabric Finishing • Brushing and singeing • Sanforizing • Desizing • Stenter • Mercerizing • Calendering

Brushed

Denim garment finishing Washing: -Aesthetic finish -Removing dyestuff from fabric -Creating special appearance and updating clothes

DENIM & WATER

ARCHROMA DENIM DYEING “Archroma” offers two breakthrough eco-advanced dyeing processes under its ADVANCED DENIM concept: 1. Denim-Ox 2. Pad/Sizing-Ox

Innovative Denim Finishing Laser finishing technology  This technique enables patterns to be created such as lines and/or dots, images, text or pictures.  No use of water & chemical.  Also called spray painting in denims.  This technique has relatively high cost.

Ozone fading technology Bleach Without Bleach. Bleach Without Hot Water. Uses up to 60% less & up to NO Water in our Ozone Denim Processing. Cut utility costs by up to 50% Water Jet Fading Technology Enhancing the surface finish, texture, durability of denim garment Not involve any chemical, it is pollution free. It is a very economical & sustainable. Produces a faded effect without loss of fabric strength or durability, or excessive warp shrinkage.

SUSTAINABILITY, RECYCLING AND END USES: Denim mats Denim skirts Hats Mobile cover Shoes Shorts Sofa covers Bean bag chairs Lampshades College Bags Travel Bags Car Seat Covers Denim Curtains Denim Face Mask etc

Diversification & as a Fashion Icon: Denim is a type of cotton twill textile known for its use in blue jeans and other clothing. But, consumer’s need for new products is unlimited. At present, hundreds of derivatives of denim are available. Diversification can be done--By using Slub/fancy Yarn. By changing EPI & PPI. By using different count. Spandex(Lycra) can be used. By applying different wash effect. (Stone, Enzyme, Bleach) By applying different mechanical effect. (Rubbing, brushing) Average number of denims apparels in a person’s wardrobe

A fashion survey taken in US states that, on an average every American owns 7 to 8 pairs of jeans. 86 percent of women in the age group 16-55 chose denim as their favorite garment.

Bangladeshi Denim: The future lies in innovation What are the key challenges for Bangladesh to capture more global denim market share? Marketing and branding are very important for attracting buyers. Is Bangladeshi manufacturer are doing these properly? How can we attract buyers?

Position of Bangladesh in Denim World EXPORT

European Union- 28 countries 2016 €567.97 million 21.18 % market share US2016 $186.30 million 12.03 % market share

POSITION

1st

TARGET

2021 $50 billion in exports denim. Annually 2.1 billion pieces of denim are sold globally.

3rd (1st -China-26.04%) (2nd - Mexico 25.40%)

Denim export annual average growth (CAGR)2010-2015 - 9.73%

Some Running Modern Denim Manufacturing Plant of BD  Shasha Denim Ltd.  Jamuna Denim Ltd.  Square Denim Ltd.  Partex Denim Ltd.  Sinha Denim Ltd.  Royal Denim Ltd.  Chittagong Denim Ltd.  Hameem Denim Ltd.  Pacific Denim Ltd.  Titas Denim Ltd.  Envoy Denim Ltd.  Sinha Denim Ltd.  Desh Denim Ltd.

International Brand of DENIM