Pdf Solitaire Magazine Issue 63 1a201g

design icons PLUS: Exclusives from the Biennale des Antiquaires

Suzanne Belperron Lydia Courteille Frank Gehry Pesavento

style diva Nicole Kidman and her jewels

63 Holiday December 2012 − February 2013

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OUR REGULAR READERS WILL NOTICE OUR NEW MASTHEAD LOGO, A NEW COVER FEEL, DIFFERENT AND MORE ELEGANT PAPER, AND A FRESHER, TIGHTER LOOK ON ITS EDITORIAL PAGES.

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f there ever was a case for life moving in circles, it must be the very magazine you are now holding in your hands. When we launched Solitaire in 2002, we did so with the conviction that Asia’s jewellery industry not only had come of age, but that it needed a strong voice on the international stage. With the enthusiastic of readers and rs alike, the title and its licensed edition in Indonesia grew exponentially and became a total success. So much so that eventually we realised that the finite resources we as independent publishers had at our disposal were insufficient to grow the title much further. Our conclusion at the time was to sell it to a first-class international publisher, which could bring the brand to promising markets in other parts of the world. We found just such a media house in Edipresse, the owners of the iconic Tatler magazines, and they took on Solitaire from July 2008 onwards. Yet, as the saying goes: “Life is what happens while you are making other plans”. So when Lehman Brothers went bankrupt just one month after the handover of Solitaire, all good intentions and business plans were voided by events unfolding on the international financial stage. The jewellery industry – along with all other facets of the luxury business – went through a brutal contraction, and business for jewellery magazines evaporated almost overnight. A significant number of them folded, especially in the US and Europe, and only due to the determination and tireless efforts of Edipresse Solitaire was able to survive. In the end though, everyone with an interest and financial or emotional stake in this magazine realised that jewellery being such a very specific and unique industry, it would be better for the magazine if it were to return to its founders. And with this first redesigned issue you are reading now, it has done so. Our regular readers will notice our new masthead logo, a new cover feel, different and more elegant paper, and a fresher, tighter look on its editorial pages. Overall though, the tried and tested formula of celebrating humanity’s second oldest profession remains at the centre of all our efforts. All of us at Solitaire and its sister publications – Jetgala and Palace – thank you for your interest and goodwill. We are very grateful. Rainer Sigel Publisher

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New

CONTENT

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ontents 8

SIGN IN

Something Bold, Something New 14

TEAM

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BOUTIQUE

New & Exclusive FACETS

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RED CARPET TRENDS

Hot rocks, cool parties 38

TEMPTING TRANSFORMERS

Jewels with the power of metamorphosis 44

OF STYLE AND SKILL

Mother-of-pearl makes complications easy on the eye 48

CROWNING GLORY

Hair jewellery gets top billing 54

DIAL DELIGHT

Finding art in the face of time 60

THE NATURE OF TIME

Jewelled watches inspired by flora and fauna 62

WISHING WELL

The perfect gifts for every lady in your life 64

WHITE KNIGHTS

Snowy dials to match that wintry feeling 72

CROWNING METAL

Silver’s style renaissance 74

SET ON TIME

Celebrating 200 years of the first wristwatch

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FRANCK MULLER BOUTIQUE SINGAPORE 01-07 ION ORCHARD (65) 6509 3380 • B1-19 THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS (65) 6634 8825 MELBOURNE 119 COLLINS STREET (613) 9650 0288 JAKARTA PLAZA INDONESIA (6221) 310 7608 BANGKOK SIAM PARAGON (662) 610 9423 AUTHORISED RETAILERS SINGAPORE SINCERE FINE WATCHES TAKASHIMAYA S.C. (65) 6733 0618 SCOTTS SQUARE (65) 6636 0600 THE SHOPPES AT MARINA BAY SANDS (65) 6634 9782 SUNTEC CITY (65) 6337 5150 VIVOCITY (65) 6278 1698 SINCERE HAUTE HORLOGERIE HILTON SINGAPORE (65) 6738 9971 WATCHES OF SWITZERLAND PARAGON (65) 6732 9793 KUALA LUMPUR SINCERE FINE WATCHES STARHILL (603) 2141 8848 SURIA KLCC (603) 2166 2181 PAVILION KL (603) 2141 8418 THE GARDENS MALL (603) 2287 1133

CONTENT

ontents

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INTERVIEW 30

A GOOD LIFE

Nicole Kidman 56

CABINET OF CURIOSITIES

Lydia Courteille 76

THE RULE BREAKER

Delfina Delettrez DESIGN 40

TECHNO CRAFT

Powerful Pesavento

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LIQUID ARCHITECTURE

Frank Gehry’s jewelled creations 66

PRECIOUS PORTRAITS

Jewellery that tells a story with porcelain 68

LADY MYSTERY

The life and works of Suzanne Belperron 100

BESPOKE TREASURES

Exploring Jakarta’s jewellery scene REVIEW 80

PALACE OF DREAMS

From the Biennale des Antiquaires 86

GRAND GEOMETRY

Bulgari’s Biennale debut KNOWLEDGE 88

COLOURED DIAMONDS

Rock solid assets 92

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CONCH PEARLS

Precious imposter STYLE 94

FESTIVE FINERY

Jewelled inspirations for the holidays 106

CHARMED PERFECTION

Bold jewels and timepiece essentials 117

ATELIER

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GALAS

Sparkling Soirées 130

STAR GEMS

A Quarterly Forecast 132

RING GUIDE

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JEWELLERY SHOW DIARY

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JEWEL BOX

Dress to Impress 12

COLLECTION LIBELLULE

LALIQUE BOUTIQUE @ ORCHARD MANDARIN GALLERY Mandarin Galleryt4ingaporet5 t&[email protected]

TEAM

CONTENT EDITOR Emilie Yabut-Razon MASTHEAD & TEMPLATES Sylvia Weimer / Spacelabdesign Sydney BUSINESS EDITOR Rainer Sigel EDITOR Katrina Balmaceda ASSISTANT EDITOR Sandy Tan EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Charmaine Tai CONTRIBUTORS Aniko Navai, Charlene Co, Lisa-Ann Lee, Melissa Pearce, Olive Cuenca, Y-Jean Mun-Del Salle COMPANY PUBLISHER Rainer Sigel MANAGING DIRECTOR Michelle Tay SENIOR MANAGER, BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Jaime Lim BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT EXECUTIVES Shirleen Low, Kelly Li CIRCULATION & PRODUCTION MANAGER Caroline Rayney OFFICE MANAGER Winnie Lim MARKETING ASSISTANT Anne Goh

ion for jewellery runs in Aniko Navai’s family. Her grandmother had a collection of European Art Deco diamonds, and her mother accessorised her haute couture Dior gowns with custom-made pieces by Cartier. Throw in her Hollywood connections, and you’ve got the perfect jewellery correspondent to the stars. In this issue, she shares a recent interview with superstar Nicole Kidman.

120 Lower Delta Road #13-11 Cendex Centre, Singapore 169208 T: +65 6273 0620 F: +65 6273 0632 EMAILS ADVERTISING [email protected] WEBSITES MAGAZINES www.solitairemagazine.com | www.jetgala.com www.palacemagazine.asia GROUP www.orientalmediagroup.com SINGAPORE www.oriental-publishing.com VIETNAM www.oriental-ltd.com DIGITAL EDITIONS & S www.digital.solitaire.com FACEBOOK www.facebook.solitaire.com SOLITAIRE is published quarterly and circulated throughout the Asia-Pacific. Opinions expressed are those of the contributors and not necessarily endorsed by the Publisher. COPYRIGHT NOTICE All rights, including copyright, in the content of this publication are owned or controlled by Oriental Publishing Pte Ltd, Singapore. You are not permitted to copy, broadcast, , store in any medium, transmit, show or play in public, adapt or change in any way the content of this publication for any other purpose whatsoever without the prior written permission of Oriental Publishing Pte Ltd, Singapore. TRADEMARK NOTICE The masthead logo ‘SOLITAIRE’ is a ed Trademark of Oriental Publishing Pte Ltd, Singapore. All rights are cumulatively reserved by Oriental Publishing Pte Ltd, Singapore. Their protection will be pursued to the full extent of the law. Printed by KHL Printing Co, Singapore MICA(P)144/09/2012 PHOTO CREDITS COVER Photography: Brendan Zhang Stylist: Furqan Saini Hair & Makeup: Andrea Claire Jewellery: Petite Fleur watch and earrings in white gold with diamonds, Breguet ATELIER OPENER Image courtesy of Piaget

www.orientalmediagroup.com

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In this issue, Sydney-based writer Melissa Pearce talks to Frank Gehry. Aside from covering the movers and shakers of the industry, Melissa equally enjoys profiling emerging design talent and iconic brands. She also writes travel and lifestyle features beyond the jewellery box. Melissa is restless by nature and will journey far for a good meal.

In this issue, Lisa-Ann Lee traces the story and unforgettable designs of Suzanne Belperron. Apart from exploring trends in the jewellery industry, she also writes about interior design, the arts and luxury. Her work has appeared in business and lifestyle publications in Asia.

A freelance journalist and editorial consultant who has lived on three different continents, Y-Jean MunDel Salle is no stranger to change. A peripatetic lifestyle such as hers allows her to move easily among cultures and come face-to-face with inspirational individuals in pursuit of excellence. She finds joy and solace in writing and contributes regularly to regional and international titles, shining a spotlight in particular on art, architecture, design, horology and jewellery.

Hong Kong ‐ Shanghai ‐ New York by appointment only: Tel: +852 2191 9282 ‐ [email protected]

www.scarselli-asia.com

BOUTIQUE

Sea of GOLD Australian jeweller Linney’s presents its latest collection, created from South Sea pearls, burnished gold and diamonds. The South Sea gold pearl earrings feature a pair of cultured pearls and a mix of diamonds in a flower design, while the Diamond Cuff is studded with 74 round brilliant-cut diamonds set along a polished concave of textured cross sections. www.linneys.com.au

Full Circle

When the late Nicolas G. Hayek bought the 1794 Breguet No. 5 pocket watch a few years ago, he set his watchmakers to the task of reproducing the timepiece using the techniques of older days. Breguet accomplished this by taking apart the original movement down to the tiniest screw and photographing the parts. The succesful replica is now on sale and on tour around selected Asian cities.. www.breguet.com

Snake

Bites

To celebrate the coming Chinese New Year, Roberto Coin has designed a unique piece using the cobra, a symbol of sacredness and wisdom. The bangle coils round the arm. Blue sapphires, colourless and black diamonds form the skin of the snake, while rubies make up the eyes. www.en.robertocoin.com

Degem introduces toi et moi, a collection of coloured gemstone rings that come in pairs, designed so that both rings can be worn at the same time or separately, as a sign of friendship or family ties. The rings come in white, rose and yellow gold, and a variety of gems, including rubies, diamonds, beryl and aquamarine. www.degemdiamond.com.sg

lion in the snow Chanel’s new jewellery watch collection, Mademoiselle Privé, opens the door to the intimate world of Gabrielle Chanel, showcasing cherished symbols she loved to have around her. In the Montre Constellation Du Lion watch, stars and a majestic lion are ablaze in a blue translucent enamel dial, with grain- and invisible-set diamonds. The white-gold case also features snow-set diamonds. www.chanel.com

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Jewelmer Tropics Collection

BOUTIQUE

CABLE ZSAR

David Yurman’s son and now creative hand at the jewellery house, Evan Yurman has released the brand’s first high jewellery collection, which features one-of-a-kind pieces with tourmalines, black opal, rubellites, and pavé diamonds. Both the Emerald and Diamond Earrings and Rubellite and Colour Change Garnet Pave Mosaic Cuffs are one-off pieces with the brand’s signature cable pattern base. The earrings are an unusual set with a platinum inlay and mother-of-pearl backing, while the cuff uses 17 uniquely shaped Madagascar rubellites. www.davidyurman.com

LUXE & lacquer

Los Angeles-based jeweller Azature has created the world’s most expensive nail polish, the Azature Black Diamond, containing 267 carats of black diamonds. Black, in traditional Chinese culture, is colour reserved for royalty. Only one bottle of this luxurious lacquer has been produced and is going for USD250,000. The fancy shade will also be available in more wallet-friendly versions, with just one black diamond per bottle. www. azature.com

Cartier introduces its line-up of evening bags for the party season. Available in satin, goatskin, red lacquer, python skin or crocodile skin, these exclusive clutches have clasps encrusted with diamonds and cabochons of cornelian, onyx and chrysoprase. The purses are hand-woven using silver thread and silk to create a glistening spider web effect, or dyed in silver or gold hues. www.cartier.com

Night Pride Light Safari David Moatisi of Botswana recently designed the award-winning Zebra Neckpiece. His work, based on the theme of emotional bonds between two people, was presented at the Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair in September. The masterpiece features 2,848 black and white diamonds – totalling 73.17 carats – set in 18k white gold.

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BOUTIQUE

Ceramic Spectrum Etienne Perret specialises in colour-enhanced diamond jewellery, turning eco-friendly materials into wearable pieces that are perfect for both sexes. His collection, Ceramique, is fully customisable. Customers have a say in every step of the process, choosing the colour of the ring, and the colour and number of diamonds. Rings are available in widths from 2 to 20mm, and can come in polished, silk or matte finishes. http://ceramicjewelry.com

Legacy Counts

“Our 175th anniversary is the perfect occasion to showcase these one-ofa-kind jewels, which reflect Tiffany’s legacy,” says Jon King, executive vice president of Tiffany & Co., about its latest collection that features many of the rare gemstones first introduced by Charles Lewis Tiffany himself. Among the pieces presented are the Tiffany Anniversary Tanzanite Necklace, which has a 175ct tanzanite complemented by a cascade of round diamonds, and the Tiffany Anniversary Ring, which features a vivid greenish-blue diamond of 2.51 carats, bordered by white diamonds. www.tiffany.com

MINUTE SPARKLES 20

Hot Deco

Designed by Camille Miceli, the Dior Grand Bal golden tattoos are intended to look like gold jewellery that can be pasted on whenever you want. These temporary tattoos are made using 24k gold leafing. Each limited edition set includes cuffs, chain bracelets, charms and rings. www.dior.com

Glitz & Glam Recently presented at the Kensington Palace in October, Hartmann’s Pink Diamond Cocktail Ring stood out with its simple yet elegant design. The ring is set in white gold, with a cushion-cut Fancy Intense Purplish Pink/S2I2 2011 Argyle Pink Tender stone. Framing it are six cushion-cut diamonds and two pear-shaped white diamonds, completed with 106 small white diamonds bringing the jewellery to 2.42 carats. www.argylepinkcollection.com

De Grisogono is set to shine with its latest collection, Tondo by Night. Just 45 minutes of exposure to light — natural or otherwise — is needed to get the watch sparkling. The case and the buckle are made from a composite called Pearly Photo-luminescent Fibreglass, which creates the light effect. Available in six bold colours, the watch is set with precious stones on the bezel, as well as the rotor that’s visible on the dial. www.degrisogono.com

BOUTIQUE

Arabian Legends Cinderella’s New Slippers “Like most women, I have a lifelong love of shoes,” says Sarah Hutchings of Orsini Fine Jewellery. Teaming up with fellow New Zealander, footwear designer Kathryn Wilson, they recently created what is thought to be the most expensive pair of shoes to date. Using a special adhesive, Hutchings gave Wilson’s classic courtheeled shoes a makeover by placing more than half a million dollars’ worth of white diamonds on them.

TimeTable

Paying tribute to the Oriental Ball held in Paris in 1969, Van Cleef & Arpels has created the Izmir set as part of their Bals de Légende collection, comprising a set of matching earrings and necklace. While the earrings are studded with pink and purple spinels and rubellites, the necklace features an intricate set of jewels including opal beads, topaz, and a 50.79ct yellow sapphire. www.vancleefarpels.com

GOLD

on the go Sberbank in Kazakhstan is distributing one hundred Visa Infinite credit cards to its wealthiest clients. The USD100,000 card is made of gold and embedded with 26 diamonds and mother-of-pearl. Approximately USD65,000 goes into minting the card, while USD35,000 remains in the banker’s . Owners also receive lounge access at airports, discounts at hotels and restaurants, and life and health insurance. www.sberbank.kz

Frédérique Constant has released a new table clock that incorporates a modern yet timeless look. The lid is cleverly designed to double up as a watch stand. The finely brushed and polished 94mm stainless steel case and crown encase a white dial with deep black oxidised hands and hour markers. Two quartz movements allow a second time zone at 6 o’clock. www.frederique-constant.com

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With the central body made out of jade, the dragon pendant by Zannetti features a 800 silver cap displaying a rhodium finish. The lower part of the pendulum displays a body made of white gold, which holds the Swiss quartz movement sporting a dial made of fire opal. The entire pendant is embellished by round brilliant-cut diamonds, rubies, emeralds, blue and yellow sapphires. www.zannetti.it

DANCE OF THE DRAGON

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INTERVIEW

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life NICOLE KIDMAN

a good by Aniko Navai

Nicole Kidman has done countless interviews over the years, yet she still appears reserved and even a little shy, especially when it comes to her private life. It’s been an amazing journey for the iconic actress, who at 45 is enjoying a loving marriage with country singer Keith Urban, and their two young daughters, four-year-old Sunday Rose and two-year-old Faith. OPPOSITE Nicole Kidman wears vintage jewellery from Cartier to The Paperboy premiere at the 65th annual Cannes Film Festival THIS PAGE Bracelet with step, modified, baguette and bullet-shaped diamonds in platinum, Cartier New York, 1929; bracelet with baguette, French, round old- and single-cut diamonds and step-cut emeralds in platinum, Cartier Paris, 1926

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ver the course of her career, Kidman has immersed herself in both blockbuster and indie characters, many of whom have taught and inspired her. Her latest project is a biopic on the late Princess of Monaco and legendary actress, Grace Kelly. It was the day after the Emmy Awards when Kidman and I sat to chat about her life, and from her gorgeous Antonio Berardi dress and dangling Fred Leighton diamond earrings, she was back to city chic, wearing a thin sweater and matching pencil skirt by L’Wren Scott in mustard, a colour that seemed to match her bright outlook on life.

DO YOU FEEL AS COMFORTABLE AS YOU LOOK ON THE RED CARPET? I know the head of the Cannes film festival very well because I’ve been there so many times now that it sort of feels like coming home. So yes, I’m probably more at ease with being on the red carpet, but then there’s an enormous amount of energy coming at you. When I step away from it and I’m back in my real life, there’s a dreamlike quality to it. It’s made better when you have a partner, when you have somebody who loves you and whom you love, who balances it all.

AND YOUR HUSBAND, KEITH, PROVIDES THAT? The balance of my life particularly is what I

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INTERVIEW

OPPOSITE PAGE Nicole Kidman wears a studded Versace gown and Fred Leighton jewels to the 2012 Golden Globes

I am and what I want to do is so much greater than when I was a teenager, and I can’t wait to see what it’s like in my 50s.

YOU’VE BEEN MARRIED SIX YEARS NOW...

RIGHT Nicole wearing earrings in platinum with round old-cut diamonds, by Cartier Paris from 1923

need, and [the time] when I didn’t have that was when it was far more frightening for me. I’m really just one of those people that does very well with my mate, my partner, my lover.

FOR AN ACTRESS SO ACCOMPLISHED, WHAT HAS THE JOURNEY BEEN LIKE FOR YOU? At 45, I’m still completely fascinated with the human journey and the journey we’re on as a collective, trying to understand what makes us all tick.

LOOKING AT YOU IT’S HARD TO BELIEVE YOU’RE 45. I feel a bit more tired and I ache a little more sometimes, and I have two young children, which is spectacular. I mean, to be raising these little girls at this age is such a great gift but at the same time I don’t have the stamina that I had in my 20s.

IS THERE ANYTHING IN PARTICULAR YOU WOULD STILL LIKE TO ACHIEVE? Intellectually and emotionally my desire as a human being is to live a well-examined life. It’s to have more comion, more kindness, more understanding and hopefully do things in this world that are relevant. At this age, I think my understanding of who

Has it been that long? Well, Keith is just a very genuine person. He’s very thoughtful. I’m his biggest fan and I’m very lucky to have him. And it’s great to live in Nashville because movies are kind of nonexistent there. It’s the centre of country music and so I’m kind of on the periphery there, a really nice place for me to be.

YOU AMAZED US WITH YOUR TALENT AS A SINGER IN BOTH MOULIN ROUGE AND NINE. DO YOU HAVE PLANS TO PERFORM WITH YOUR HUSBAND? We’ve shared the stage for charity — me singing back-ups, but anything professionally no. Every now and then we get asked to do stuff together and the only way we’d do it is if it’s a one-off thing to raise money for something. I’m too shy and he’s too good. He doesn’t need me pulling him down.

AS WE GET MORE MATURE, OUR STYLE AND OUR SENSE OF FASHION CHANGES. CAN YOU DESCRIBE HOW NICOLE KIDMAN’S STYLE HAS EVOLVED, ESPECIALLY NOW THAT YOU’RE PLAYING GRACE KELLY IN A BIO-PICTURE? Yeah, that plays a huge part. I went through my jeans and T-shirt stage and now that I’m playing Grace I’m like okay, I love clothes at the moment because I’ve been doing fittings with Dior and Chanel and I’m wearing Cartier jewels and it’s unbelievable. It’s beautiful. She was just magnificent in her

I love clothes at the moment because I’ve been doing ÁXXMRKW[MXL(MSVERH'LERIPERH-¸Q[IEVMRK 'EVXMIVNI[IPWERHMX¸WYRFIPMIZEFPI 32

style and her taste. And there’s the man who does the hats and he’s the son of the milliner that did Grace’s hats so it’s kind of almost rejuvenated my love of fashion, and I see it as an art form again. In my 20s I just loved the European and avant-garde, and then I went through a down-to-earth stage where I didn’t have the time to dress up, and now I’m sort of back in love with it again. I’ve run the gamut in my relationship with fashion and style.

SO IF WE CATCH YOU ON AN AVERAGE DAY WHAT WOULD YOU BE WEARING? Now at the moment playing Grace, I would hope that you see I’m dressed.... I mean, my husband’s like ‘Wow, you’re dressing differently’ and I’m like ‘Um hum.’ I’m wearing skirts. I’m putting on heels and I’m sure that’s because of the film. It’s rubbed off on me.

WHAT DOES LUXURY MEAN TO YOU NOW? DO YOU APPRECIATE IT MORE, OR LESS THAN BEFORE? Probably less. I mean I’m still appreciative but the simplest things in the world now are the most important to me. And I think when I was starting out I was far more starry-eyed about the materialistic side of things. Then you go okay, ‘I know what’s important and what’s valuable in my life.’ But when I’m playing a character like Grace Kelly, all of that has to rise to the surface again. I suppose because I’m so absorbed in her right now I’m kind of seeing the world through her eyes.

WOULD YOU EVER CARE TO WRITE YOUR LIFE STORY? I’m the kind of person that has had an enormous amount of experiences. Things have gone on in my life but I’m very private. I’m never going to write a book and I probably would never make a film about any part of my life. It’s just who I am. It’s a bit how I was raised and at the same time it’s out of respect for people.

YOU’VE BEEN REPRESENTING OMEGA. CAN YOU TALK ABOUT YOUR AFFILIATION WITH THEM? My dad always had gorgeous watches and

so when Omega first came to me, which was years ago, and asked me to work with them, it was like the perfect fit in a way. They have exquisite craftsmanship, and they’re just a great company to work for, very philanthropic which is something that is important to me. Omega contributes in a big way to the UN’s women’s issues.

SPEAKING OF WATCHES, WHAT DOES TIME MEAN TO YOU? Right now that links to the question of being 45. Time is so precious and I think it becomes apparent, as you get older. There are so many things you can buy, but you cannot buy time. And that’s why we always try keeping our family together, because you can’t get time back.

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FACETS

RED CARPET TRENDS by Fiona Low

Inspirations taken from winter’s majestic ppalette As temperatures fall and the sun-drenched drenched days of summer begin to cool, celebrities on the world’s orld’s red carpets are taking fashion cues from the changing nging landscape. Gone are the neon hues of summer. Autumn tumn and winter colours are making their appearance in jewellery wellery as the stars accessorise with burnished reds, browns, emerald greens, and gold, with a smattering of fancy cy coloured and brilliant diamonds. The sumptuous, rich hues ues of the season are a fail-safe way to add a touch of glamour amour to any outfit, as can be seen on leading ladies like ke Naomi Watts, Sofia Vergara and Angelababy. These ese shades work equally well with complementary tones or as an accent piece. Watts, who will portray ray the late Princess Diana in her movie, Diana, goes for brown and cognac diamond ond earrings and a nude gown, while Prometheus uss star Noomi Rapace pairs a raspberry ring ing with a contrasting hunter green frock. Sofia Vergara at the Emmys wearing 45ct pear-shaped diamond earrings, a 20ct divine diamond ring, and multiple diamond with emerald bracelets from Neil Lane; 4ct diamond ring from Hearts On Fire Noomi Rapace at the 2012 Venice Film Festival wearing the Bulgari Heritage ring

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Hong Kong’s Angelababy at the 2012 Venice Film Festival wearing 16ct fancy yellow pear diamond earrings and a high jewellery Serpenti watch from Bulgari

FOPE.COM

FACETS Naomi Watts at the 69th Venice Film Festival wearing a pair of rose-gold earings set with brown and cognac diamonds from Chopard

Jamie Lynn Sigler at the Emmys with raspberry rhodolite earrings and bracelet with brilliant and chocolate diamonds in 18k strawberry gold. All from Le Vian Violante Placido wears ruby and diamond jewellery from Bulgari at the 2012 Venice Film Festival; Serpenti cuff in white gold with rubies and diamonds

Style Tips 1. Striking winter tones like Jamie Lynn Sigler’s Sigl raspberry rhodolite bracelet and a earrings in rose gold will jazz up u monochromatic ensembles ensemble 2. Stick to varying shades of the same colour colo for a polished getup. Violante Placido looks resplendent in a scarlet scarle dress with matching jewels, clutch clu and lippy diamonds work better in large 3. Icy dia rather than dainty ornate pieces pi accessories. Take a cue from Sofia accessori Vergara’s show-stopping combinaand earrings tion of bracelets br at the Emmys Em

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Diamonds

FACETS

tempting transformers TRANSFORMER JEWELS by Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle

Jewels that display the magic of metamorphosis Convertible long necklaces, moveable motifs and playful pieces fitted with ingenious mechanisms are all the rage this season. These secret pieces may undergo sudden transformations, so that a bracelet becomes a brooch or a necklace turns into a bracelet. This reflects jewellers’ current obsession with the concept of dual function, a sense of mystery and concealment, and an ingenious and imaginative approach to ornamentation.

Van Cleef & Arpels’ glorious Mysterious Phoenix necklace showcasing a 14.36-carat pear-cut diamond and rubies mounted in the house’s famous Mystery Setting, a technique it patented in 1922, features a phoenix motif that may be detached and worn as a clip.

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Boucheron’s mysterious Perle au Trésor treasure chest in diamonds, pearls, opals and mother of pearl is a great technical innovation, turning a precious object into multiple pieces of jewellery. Requiring more than 3,000 hours of work, this perfect sphere paying tribute to the art of marquetry conceals a world of wonders. It opens and unveils a necklace, two brooches and a bracelet like a secret jewellery box.

A platinum necklace from Cartier’s Luxuriant Landscape high-jewellery collection, featuring a 91.34-carat emerald drop from Colombia, a pear-shaped diamond, and brilliants, transforms into a nature-inspired brooch.

Whether it’s in the lines, volumes or gems, the variations on the same theme — stars and comets, symbols that coloured Gabrielle Chanel’ss imagination —are those of a virtuoso. The multiple p ways y of wearing the claspless Étoile Filante renew the codes of the necklace. Of rigid construction, yet with a fluid feel, it drapes the chest with a constellation of diamonds and ends with a stunning five-pointed star embellished with an opulent 8.8-carat round-cut diamond, which may be unfastened and used as a brooch.

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DESIGN

PESAVENTO by Olive Cuenca

Craft

te hno Powerful designs of creativity and skill 40

DESIGN DESIGN

C OPPOSITE PAGE Pixel rings in silver and rhodium, pink gold and ruthenium plating, from the Vento925 collection ABOVE Elastic silver mesh chains, earrings and cuff from the DNA collection, in tones of pink and grey

hannelling art into jewellery design can be hit or miss, but it’s a challenge the creative duo of Marino Pesavento and Chiara Carli of Italian brand Pesavento Srl has mastered in the last two decades. The couple’s skillful creations, rendered in gold or silver, have garnered numerous accolades for their unique combination of technological savvy and Italian craftsmanship. Pieces that resemble miniature sculptures have piqued the interest of fashion houses and international celebrities because of their unusual textures, element of whimsy and play of light and colour. “Creating jewellery requires a total immersion in the world of beauty, art and harmony,” say designers Marino and Chiara, who founded Pesavento in 1992, adding that the process is “poetry in the essence of form, and a journey to new horizons where design enhances desire”. Fuelled by a strong creative vision that continually seeks to innovate through technology, Pesavento’s founders believe that crafting a masterpiece begins with a clear

concept and must be backed by top-quality materials, technique and superb Italian workmanship. As with art, a graceful balance of skill and harmony is required of each piece. Chiara adds: “We knew exactly what we wanted — a silver and gold jewellery company projected towards the future; and innovation based on creativity, aesthetics, culture, skill in material transformation and know-how that distinguishes real ‘Made in Italy’ production.” Among the inventive duo’s very first creations was the Incontri collection, featuring necklaces, rings and bracelets in gold, with a minimalist yet bold style. Drawing on the richness of the metal, the designers created smooth, highly polished coil-like loops held together by spring clasps they created especially for the line. In 1994, Pesavento launched three new collections — Oceania, Gallattica and Saetta. Two years later, the company followed through with the Arena collection, which features intertwining chains of yellow and white gold. All their pieces showed a gorgeous fusion of materials and modern design, cementing the brand’s unique design style. In the same year, the brand released the yellow- and chocolate-gold Safary necklace with a tusk-shaped pendant embellished with black spinel. The use of black spinel proved to be a hit, paving the way for the brand to create more gem-studded pieces, including the Bowl rings series, which featured row upon row of

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DESIGN

As with art, a graceful balance of skill and harmony is required of each creation

pavé diamonds as the focal point. Part of the company’s Vento 925 Collection, which celebrates the beauty of silver, the Pixel range was greeted with much enthusiasm, showcasing a multitude of spheres in rhodium, pink gold and ruthenium plating. In 2010, Pesavento introduced a remarkable innovation when it released its Sigili rings range. Each piece is rendered in PVD and features large central stones. “PVD is a new technological process that permits atoms of precious metal to be deposited through evaporation onto the surfaces of precious metals to form an extraordinarily tenacious structure,” Marino explains. This success was followed by another cutting edge design: the Polvere diSogni or Stardust collection, a range which Marino and Chiara call “designer jewellery that looks to the future.” Using a newly developed technology that uses powder from crushed precious metals and gems to bond with silver, they have created pieces with unique sandy or rock-like textures, never before seen in jewellery. Their latest masterpiece, the DNA, is

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even more unorthodox. Helical elastic mesh in coloured silver form chandelier earrings, tiered necklaces and cuff bracelets that are supple and lithe with a strong core so as to be completely flexible, allowing wearers to tighten, twist, wrap and move them around exactly as they wish. Celebrating its 20th anniversary this year, Pesavento is presenting Burlesque, a limited edition collection of 99 pieces featuring jewellery in rose gold studded with diamonds that are packaged in natural python-skin cases made for the occasion. Burlesque captivates and speaks well of the brand’s incredible journey and strong fascination for jewellery making. As the founding designers look back at their two-decade-long creative journey, Marino and Chiara exhibit the same enthusiasm as the very first day they started the business. Their creative flame has never dimmed, and they continue to surprise with sculptural, sensual works of art.

ABOVE Polvere di Sogni silver rings and bracelets in shades of rhodium, pink gold and ruthenium, coated with glittering powder in various colours BELOW, FROM LEFT Bowl rings in gold with pavé diamonds; Burlesque, a limited edition collection made in pink gold studded with diamonds

90 Anniversary

www.moraglione.com

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It aly • Custom made design available upon request Exclusive Dealer for Malaysia: Poh Kong Jewellery, Kuala Lumpur

FACETS

Cartier

The maison uses Tahitian mother of peaarl for the dial of its Tempees Modernes de Cartier watch. The timepiece cleverly references the Charlie Chaplin film Modern Times by decorating the dial witth diamond-encrusted ‘gears’. Rotating the bezel makes the gears turn along with the main hour and minutee subdial.

S tyle Skill MOTHER-OF-PEARL DIALS by Katrina Balmaceda

Mother of pearl makes complications easy on the eye and elegant on the wrist

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Dior

The fashion house heightens the technical appeal of the VIII Grand Bal Plume 38mm automatic. Based on the Dior Inversé calibre, it displays the oscillating weight on the dial side instead of the back, using white gold adorned with feathers and diamonds, set against a dial of black Vietnamese mother of pearl.

FACETS

Breguet

The Reine de Naples reference 8908 with a flexible gold chain strap references the original watch made by Abraham-Louis Breguet for the Queen of Naples 200 years ago, which supposedly came with a strap of braided hair and gold thread. The egg-shaped dial is made of black Tahitian mother-of-pearl — a first for a Breguet watch — with a moon-phase indicator, power-reserve indicator, central hours and minutes subdial, and small seconds subdial.

Bulgari

The 2012 Bulgari Diagono Chronographe for ladies comes in either a steel-and-ceramic or rose-gold-and-ceramic case with the brand’s logo, with a diamondstudded, mother-of-pearl dial. A rubber strap adheres to the collection’s sporty style, along with a chronograph function with separate hours, minutes and hands subdials and a date-display window.

Van Cleef &Arpels p

This year’s Poetic Wish ladies’ watch portrays a Parisian scene with engraveed gold, enamel and sculpted motther of pearl. In tune with thee entire collection, it tells a story off yearning lovers. A five-minute reepeater activates the figures and d uses either a man or a woman to tell the hour, while a kiite tells the minutees. It’s charming and, as they say, it’s complicated.

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FACETS

HAIR JEWELS by Emilie Yabut-Razon

Crowning

Glory Hair jewellery gets top billing

Showing off jewellery takes a creative turn as necklaces, brooches and rings find their way to elegant up-dos. Pearls, jade, diamonds and coloured gems have been spotted on celebrity tresses at recent red carpet events. At the Met Ball for instance, stars like Naomi Campbell, Kate Hudson and Jessica Alba all donned hair jewels — demistyle, pinned back on sides or headband-style. Giving your coiffure a little art and sparkle is something Chinese jewellery Su Jie Feng knows well. He founded SocoSo, a design studio that aims to bring Chinese traditional art to modern times through jewellery. In ancient China, women used hair ornaments to denote social rank, as love tokens, and to signify that the young woman had reached marriageable age. These were fashioned from jade, gold, silver, ivory, bronze and carved wood, depicting auspicious symbols from flora and fauna. This tradition inspired Su Jie Feng’s Go Ahead collection, which presents ornate jewels that can be used as hairpieces, featuring white jade, diamonds and tourmalines set in 18k gold.

Go Ahead ring and hairpiece with emeraldcut tourmaline, diamonds and white jade in 18k brushed gold

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DESIGN OPPOSITE PAGE Frank Gehry designed a brooch for Tiffany & Co. based on his Guggenheim Musuem Bilbao. The brooch features 692 baguette-cut and 14 square-cut diamonds set in platinum;Torque concrete bangle and ring by Gehry for Tiffany & Co.

Liquid

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Architecture

FRANK GEHRY by Melissa Pearce

A burning fascination for the craft, driven by small-scale works of art He calls architecture ‘frozen music’ and his lyrical lines are infused with bold expression. The indefatigable Frank Gehry threw another curve ball into his unrelenting and overachieving schedule when, at the age of 76, he began working with Tiffany & Co. to create jewellery. Six years and eight collections later, the world’s most famous living architect is still enjoying learning new skills: marvelling at the way pendants leave an imprint on the décolletage, and getting excited by sterling silver mesh that folds like fabric. Trading grand scale for small scale in one elegant sweep. Known for his gleaming spaceship-like structures that seem to be from a distant and hyper-intuitive galaxy, Gehry is the idealised and idolised global brand ambassador for all manner of innovating endeavours. The Walt Disney Concert Hall is sometimes referred to as one of his baubles, but the so-called jewel in his crown and the most notably bedazzling for jewellery enthusiasts

is his Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. In a Vanity Fair survey of the greatest work of architecture since 1980, more than half of the 52 esteemed architects and critics who chimed in lauded it as the landslide winner. The titanium-clad building has brought his peers to tears and was deemed by New York Times architecture critic Herbert Muschamp as “the reincarnation of Marilyn Monroe”. Gehry acknowledges that his works are an ingenious pairing of visionary eyes and expert hands. He might be one of the century’s boldest thinkers but he gets a kick out of collaboration and his grand results are born from an energetic dialogue between players. He has compared the architectural process to jazz’s improvisation and he seeks it out continually. His first collection for Tiffany & Co. in 2006 was the result of a three-year project where he, along with the

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DESIGN

Gehry is the idealised and idolised global brand ambassador for all manner of innovating endeavours

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brand’s senior vice president in charge of merchandising and the designers, met at sixweek intervals, sometimes on the West Coast and some times on the East. As the first new collaborator Tiffany & Co. had courted in 25 years (Paloma Picasso was the last in 1980), Gehry s a handful of illustrious designers that the jeweller has hired since its inception: Elsa Peretti, in 1974, and the late Jean Schlumberger, in 1956. During the launch of his collection, he told the Los Angeles Times of his side-project imperative: “I am always looking for things to do that give me instant gratification because buildings take so long.” With architectural projects often averaging five- to seven-year partnerships, he is pleased with the speed at which jewellery can be completed, and no doubt, its lack of officious building codes. Gehry is not the first architect to explore jewellery, but the sensuality of his oeuvre has translated so arrestingly well to the craft. Gehry’s work often reflects twisting bodies or biotecture clad in a skin of shimmering and undulating metal, like his 76-storey residential building, 8 Spruce Street in New York, or

Prague’s Dancing House. It’s revealing, too, that he has said on several occasions that he enjoys looking at women and how they use jewellery as a fashion statement. Materials are another linking point between his day job and his Tiffany & Co. releases. Gehry has always celebrated the pedestrian in materials, albeit in very uncommon imaginings. He is fond of concrete and first trumped chain-link and plywood before the titanium swathes of recent decades. Jewellery, less precariously poised on the structural security of materials, has allowed him to experiment even more. His first collection used black gold, cocholong stone, pernambuco wood and raw-cut diamonds. Last year, his Torque line was made from white bone china and watercolour bangles, hand-painted by Gehry

himself in red, green, blue and grey. In July, the brand released the Modern Concrete Torque, his signature design infused with an edgy monochrome twist, with sterling silver ridged like the bars that reinforce poured concrete or asphalt structures in the construction world. His Paper collection a few years ago featured earrings, brooches and bracelets in 18k yellow gold made to look like crinkly paper. He has also explored agate, rhodonite, jade and palma nera wood. Adulation does not sit well with Gehry. He is much more comfortable being what he calls ‘Joe Schlepper’. Yet he is a living and breathing trademark that can reinvigorate a whole city with a masterstroke, but with a refreshing modesty and accessibility that is almost unbelievable if it weren’t so genuine.

FROM LEFT 77-Fish Fish necklace in sterling silver, onyx, nephrite green jade, acacia wood and pernambuco wood; Hearts necklace in sterling silver with curved and reflective surface, inspired by billowing sails; Necklace in white gold mesh, Keshi pearls and diamonds; Handpainted bangles in bone china; Frank Gehry launched his first jewelry collection in 2006 ; Fish drop earrings with diamonds in 18k white gold

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FACETS

DIAL ART by Emilie Yabut-Razon

ial Delight Finding art in the face of time 54

OPPOSITE PAGE Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rendez-Vous Tourbillon Enamel watch THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Cartier’s Santos Dumont XL Horse Motif in 18k white gold; Cape Cod Coup de Fouet timepiece by Hermès with self-winding movement H1928; Vacheron Constantin’s Year of the Snake timepiece features four windows, indicating minute, date, day and hour

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eyond the often hidden inner life of a watch, a true masterpiece reveals itself at first glance in the layers of mother-of-pearl, enamelling, guilloché and precious gems that make up an elegant wristwatch’s dial. In those very few centimetres of precious metal, watchmakers tell their spellbinding tales. Cartier’s Santos Dumont XL Horse Motif was created using more than 400 pieces of tesserae, cut in different sizes and shapes, including Kalahari jasper and pink opal. Two mosaic techniques were used to create an image of a horse, hand-engraved in gold and edged in metal piping. The manual-winding watch comes in a limited edition of 50 pieces, 10 of which have baguette-cut diamonds. Inspired by its famous scarves, Hermès presents the Cape Cod Coup de Fouet timepieces featuring dials created through grand feu (high-

Each design carries a different shade — brown, chamois, dark blue and light blue temperature) enamelling. Each design carries a different shade — brown, chamois, dark blue and light blue. The watches are self-winding with a power reserve of 55 hours. Jaeger-LeCoultre has launched its romantic Rendez-Vous collection with the Wild Rose and Tourbillon Enamel watches. Both feature a rose motif: the Wild Rose plays on a pastel palette in mother-of-pearl, with diamonds on the bezel, lugs and dial; the Tourbillon Enamel comes in more fiery tones, using enamelling in opaque and translucent shades accented by diamonds. From Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art series come The Year of the Snake models from the Legend of the Chinese Zodiac collection. The dials come in 18k gold, with a hand-engraved platinum or 18k gold snake, and grand feu enamelling. The watches are fitted with the automatic calibre 2460 with hour, minute, day and date indications.

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INTERVIEW LYDIA COURTEILLE by Y-Jean Mun-Delsalle

Cabinet of Curiosities 56

The Gardens of Xochimilco collection, illustrated by Natalie Shau for Lydia Courteille

Discovering Lydia Courteille’s jewellery is like stepping into a curious, fantastical world filled with powerful, thoughtprovoking themes It was an exceptionally beautiful, vibrantgreen turquoise recently discovered in Turkmenistan that got Lydia Courteille to dream up a unique jewellery collection of one-off pieces named Amazonia, which reinterpreted the flora and fauna of the Amazonian rainforests. Frogs, snakes, creepers and butterflies were transformed into rings, brooches, earrings, bracelets and necklaces, mixing green garnets, emeralds and diamonds. This latest collection straight from the French jewellery designer’s vivid imagination is perfectly in line with the Baroque spirit and duality of her jewels that are both unsettling and reassuring, as the wearer steps into an unknown, surreal universe inspired by nature and history. After visiting an antique jeweller in the hope of repairing an old wristwatch, Courteille discovered a ion for jewellery which led her to become an expert gemologist and start collecting 18th-century jewels. She started deg 30 years ago in Paris, which led to her creating custom pieces for her regular clients in 1989. In 2008, she gained international exposure when her creations appeared on the catwalk with Alexis Mabille’s

haute couture collection and during the Prada boutique presentation. Today, her oneof-a-kind creations are sold worldwide. An expert in jewellery history, her collections often incorporate vintage jewels, such as cameos set in Baroque-styled rings, adorned with precious stones and unusual materials like hair of Venus rock crystals and laguna blue opals from Peru. Solitaire sits down with Courteille as she shares her journey.   TELL US ABOUT YOUR CHILDHOOD AND HOW YOU KNEW YOU WANTED TO BE A JEWELLERY DESIGNER. I was born in Paris in a family that was never related to jewellery. My father was an electrician and my mother a housewife. It was a classic, strict Catholic family and the only escape for me from a quite boring and monotonous reality was dreaming and fantasising. As a little girl, I was extremely curious about science and fashion — a double personality which probably led me to what I am doing now. I was at once interested in stones, minerals and archaeology, using every opportunity to go to the museum and learn more about it and, at the same time, I spent hours sketching imaginary fashion collections. It was pure destiny that led me to jewellery creation. I once stepped into a jewellery shop and have never actually been able to leave it. I then started collecting and selling antique jewellery, got my gemologist diploma and, some time later, created my own pieces. TELL ME ABOUT YOUR COLLECTION OF ANTIQUE JEWELLERY AND HOW YOU INCORPORATE VINTAGE PIECES INTO YOUR OWN JEWELLERY DESIGNS. I started my collection with some very small pieces. It has grown with time as my knowledge and experience have increased. I became an antiquities expert. Antique dealers have always tried to perfect the pieces they

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INTERVIEW

have in their possession by adding extra diamonds, changing the setting, etc. My idea was to give new life to pieces that had been done very nicely but set very poorly. Take antique cameos, for example: nobody was wearing them anymore, but when I set them in amazing rings, they became beautiful and bold statement pieces. I also quite often use antique gemstones, for they have a quality that is very different from what we have nowadays on the market. Back then, precious stones were hardly modified with any chemicals, hardly ever heated. So even though they are not as shiny or clear, their colour is simply extraordinary. DESCRIBE YOUR DESIGN STYLE AND APPROACH. When I start creating, what really counts for me is the pleasure of assembling — precious stones, ideas, symbols. It takes time to create a relation between a stone and an idea. As I love working with colour, I usually start by collecting a particular gemstone. I then put it aside for a while; when the right time comes, I just take them all out and start creating a brand-new collection. I never force myself to—I just wait for the right time to come. TELL ME ABOUT YOUR SOURCES OF INSPIRATION. My inspiration process is long and quite complex because it requires being extremely attentive not only to what happens around me, but also to what happens inside of me. I collect ideas, phrases, memories. It could start with a little drawing I made on a piece of paper or a painting I saw at the Louvre; different images and ideas that I experience crystallise and become something new. There are so many things that inspire me: French poetry (To Cassandra collection), Masson crosses (Esotericism collection), nature (My Secret Garden collection), and travelling (Amazonia and Xochimilco Garden collections). DESCRIBE YOUR LATEST COLLECTION, AMAZONIA, AS

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WELL AS SOME OF THE MOST SPECTACULAR PIECES OF JEWELLERY YOU SELL. When I started the Amazonia collection, what counted for me the most was the very bright, vivid-green turquoise colour. I felt that this green gave me a source of fresh air, allowing me to breathe. For me, it was a beautiful way to resist the polluted urban life — to dream about tropical forests, plants and animals and feel the freshness of pure oxygen. The most spectacular pieces I make, such as cuffs, necklaces and rings, are more than just jewellery to me — they are my objects, my mini works of art, things to look at and play with. HOW MANY PIECES OF JEWELLERY DO YOU MAKE ANNUALLY? I create all throughout the year and have almost no vacation. Creation is such a natural process for me, a natural state of mind. As I create in a very spontaneous way, there is no strict number of pieces I make per year. I would say between 200 and 300 pieces. Most of them are one-of-a-kind creations. WHAT KIND OF WOMEN DO YOU CREATE JEWELLERY FOR? The woman who wears Lydia Courteille is full of courage; she is cultivated and looking for emotion and creativity. These women are maybe a little bit shy, so they try to transmit their inner personality through the jewellery that they wear. Wearing my creations is like sending out a code. The woman who wears Lydia Courteille jewellery is not showing off her money — she is showing off her taste. She is a free and sensual woman.

CLOCKWISE, SE FROM TOP LEFT Monkey bangle in 18k black rhodium gold, pink coral flower centrepiece with diamonds, tasvorites and rubies; Crocodile ring in 18k black rhodium gold with 80ct Paraiba centre stone, brown diamonds and tsavorites; Coiling snake hoop earrings in 18k gold, tsavorites and rubies; Mexican flora- and fauna-inspired brooch in 18k black rhodium gold, fire opals, sapphires, garnets and diamonds

Lynk’s Fine Jewellery Boutique 15 Le Loi, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, HCMC, Vietnam Tel: (+84 8) 3827 2211 - (+84) 989 158 751 Email: [email protected] - Website: www.lynk.vn

Lynk’s World High-end Fashion and Skincare 30 Dong Khoi, Ben Nghe Ward, Dist 1, HCMC, Vietnam Tel: (+84 8) 3826 8268 - (+84) 908 210 582 Email: [email protected] - Website: www.lynk.vn

FACETS

1 Chanel’s Montre Pluie de Cristal comes in 18k white gold, rock crystal and diamonds; 2.Vacheron Constantin’s Kalla Haute Couture à Pampilles is the newest offering in the watch manufacturer’s muchacclaimed Kalla collection 3.Damiani’s Mimosa collection depicts the delicate flower using rubies and sapphires in shades of red and pink; 4. Piaget’s Limelight Garden Party Ref. G0A37185 watch comes with 1,023 brilliant-cut diamonds on the dial and a bracelet made of 130 white Akoya pearls; 5. Chopard’s handwound L’Heure du Diamant watch is made in 18k white gold and fully set with navettecut and brilliant-cut diamonds (model image courtesy of Dior) 60

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the JEWELLED WATCHES by Katrina Balmaceda

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Radiant flora-and faunainspired watches light up this season’s lookbook

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ake a merry statement this season with flora- and fauna-inspired jewelled watches. White diamonds, cool sapphires and fiery rubies transform timepieces into dazzling displays of nature on one’s wrist. With all fully jewelled watches, subtlety is not the name of the game. All are meant to surprise and delight. Some designs lean towards refinement, while others are suitably bold. For instance, a closer look at Chopard’s L’Heure du Diamant reveals a pattern of leaves formed by the diamonds on the strap. What looks like a broken geometric pattern on the dial of Chanel’s Montre Pluie de Cristal turns out to be a diamond flower surrounded by undefined shapes — like a flower that has fallen from its tree coming to rest on the ground amid scattered twigs and leaves. Jewels are perfect for secret watches: diamond leaves cover the dials of Piaget’s Limelight Garden Party Ref. G0A37185 and Vacheron Constantin’s Kalla Haute Couture à Pampilles. Damiani pays an ode to nature with its Mimosa watch bracelet, which uses varying shades of rubies and sapphires to resemble a generous sprig of red and pink mimosas twined around your wrist.

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FACETS

GIFT SUGGESTIONS

ell ^ by Fiona Low

Wishing

Find the perfect gift for every woman in your life

Shopping for a woman can be one of the hardest things in life, more so when you have to battle the holiday throngs to hunt for the perfect present. This festive season, let Solitaire help take the stress out of your shopping. Whether it’s a boss you’ve been trying to impress, or the little sister you dote on, we’ve put together a selection of gifts they’re sure to cherish.

Boss

She’s a powerhouse in the boardroom and the mere sound of her approaching Louboutins sends fear into many a heart. Butter up the bigwig with this pavé diamond Philip Stein Prestigee watch in rose gold, Coil on the Rockss rings from Garavelli, or Chanel’s Perle de Rosee bracelet, that all say classy with a touch of fierce.

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Mother -in-law Score some brownie points with an elegant accessory for the mother-in-law, who’s hosting this year’s holiday cocktails. Think refined, subtle pieces in muted tones like this pair of Stefan Hafner pearl earrings with pearshaped diamonds from the Venuss collection, and the Eden bracelet watch by Damiani.

Little Sister She still believes in fairy tales and has been waiting for her Prince Charming since she was nine, but you adore her just the same. Dote on little sis with a saccharine sweet pink opal Chaumet ring. Studded with purple sapphires, diamonds and red spinel, it’ll appeal to the princess in her. Add a coral watch bangle from the Frey Willie’s Magic Sphinx collection to match.

Best friend She’s a laugh to be around and the life of every party. Go crazy with bright colours and a quirky design for the confidante who is cool enough to pull it off. Let her she s unique with Harry Winston’s Winston s know she’s Premier Feathers Lady Amherstt watch, a deep pink tourmaline and sapphire ring from Hemmerle, and Tiffany & Co.’s Bird on a Rock brooch with diamonds and green tourmaline set in 18k gold and platinum.

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FACETS

PATEK PHILIPPE

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM Patek Philippe’s Nautilus Ref. 5726/1A010, Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-011 and Nautilus Ref.5980/1A-019

by Emilie Yabut-Razon

Snowy dials to match that wintry feeling There was the rose-gold year, an all-black year and a techno-look year for watches. This time around, the trend charts point towards white. Very few manufactures can deliver white dials that impress, and Patek Philippe aims to do just that with its Nautilus. Launched in 1976, the iconic watch with its black-blue dial and horizontally embossed pattern now comes in white, and the collection counts three new additions: The Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-011 comes in steel, with a silvery-white dial in a 40mm contoured case, equipped with the automatic calibre 324S C, with a date in an aperture and a central-sweep seconds hand. The Nautilus Ref. 5726/1A-010 features an annual calendar movement with the day of the week, the month, moon phases and a 24-hour indicator on the dial. The 40.5mm watch comes in stainless steel. The Nautilus Ref. 5980/1A-019 is a chronograph with a tone-on-tone monocounter at 6 o’clock. Fitted with the calibre CH 28-520 C, the watch is the sportiest of all three new models. Gold hands and applied hour markers on all the watches are blackened for increased readability on the silvery-white dials during daytime, and are adorned with white luminescent coating for night reading.

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Knights

DESIGN THIS PAGE FROM LEFT Pug pendant in handpainted porcelain in 18k rose gold and one white diamond; Follia chain in 18k white gold with white diamonds and handpainted porcelain; Forget-me-not amethyst Mystery ring in 18k rose gold with 60 champagne-coloured diamonds and handpainted porcelain

MEISSEN JEWELLERY by Katrina Balmaceda

recious portraits Jewellery that tells a story with painted porcelain Fine jewellery is not the first thing that comes to mind when one thinks of Saxony, , the land of cakes, clocks and watches. But Meissen, which has produced porcelain works of art in the region for 300 years, is confident of carving a bejewelled reputation for the region. Although Meissen has created accessories for decades, it only recently took a determined step towards developing its jewellery collection, having opened its first Meissen Joaillerie mono-brand boutique last April. A few of its pieces, such as the Love Letters rings and some items in the 1722 Swords collection, are made solely of precious metals and stones. Its Royal Blossom rings are adorned with

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diamond-studded golden flowers. Most of the pieces, however, show off the company’s expertise in miniature-painted porcelain. Dragons, Arabian nights and forgetme-nots are depicted in the Mystery collection. Varying in colour theme from amethyst to black and white, the porcelain paintings are surrounded by white or champagne-coloured diamonds and framed by white gold or rose gold, and are either mounted on a ring or hung as a pendant on a chain. Similarly, each Meissen timepiece comes with a porcelain dial — either hand painted or plain — in a diamond-studded golden case and a lizardleather strap. More intricate creations are found in the 1SRXKSPÁrVIrange, in which each

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Blossoms Mystery ring with white porcelain, rock crystal, 18k rose gold and 420 white diamonds; Bird House in 18k rose gold, 18k white gold and 433 white diamonds, with birds handpainted on porcelain; Meissen Joaillerie Timepieces with diamond-studded 18k rose gold case, handpainted porcelain dial and lizard leather wristband

necklace features a round porcelain ball — or, in some pieces, a freshwater pearl — painted with a scene, such as houses along the Venetian Grand Canal or the Lutheran church in Dresden, the capital city of Saxony. Birdhouse pendants that combine the use of gold, diamonds and porcelain count among Meissen’s objets d’art. But perhaps most memorable is Le Club du Mops. Although it is based on a design by Meissen created in 1740, its renaissance has received a warm welcome and Le Club du Mops remains one of the company’s most endearing collections, beloved by some famous style icons. It presents only one design: a pug pendant — formed in porcelain, of course — that comes in black or white, with a leather necklace to match.

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DESIGN

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SUZANNE BELPERRON by Lisa-Ann Lee

FROM LEFT Two scroll pins described as ‘brilliantly clamped colossal clips of crystal and diamonds,’ photographed by Horst P Horst for Vogue’s October issue, 1935 (image courtesy of Siegelson) Gold and diamond ring, ‘Yin et Yang’, circa 1923. Suzanne Belperron’s engagement ring, set with an old-mine diamond offered for the occasion by her future husband, Jean Belperron

It takes a measure of confidence for an artist to leave their work unsigned, and the late French jewellery designer, Suzanne Belperron, certainly had no lack of it. When asked why she refused to leave her mark on her creations, she famously replied that her style was her signature. Whether she had any inkling that her jewels would be so coveted after her death is anybody’s guess, but the decades following her ing in 1983 have shown that the cult reputation they enjoyed among royalty and society mavens has not diminished. If anything, time has only heightened their allure. In November 2011, a Belperron bracelet featuring tourmalines, peridots, beryls and coloured sapphires fetched a record price of USD350,000, more than double its pre-sale estimate. Six months later in Geneva, Sotheby’s conducted a white glove auction of 60 jewels from her personal collection that fetched triple its pre-sale estimation, a total of USD3.5 million.

Belperron, like her fabled creations, was a study in contradictions. Intensely private, she never gave interviews and insisted on receiving her clients, accepted only through referrals, at her apartment in Paris (although it is said that she made an exception for the French novelist Colette). With a clientèle that read like a Rolodex of society’s finest — her patrons included the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Diana Vreeland, Elsa Schiaparelli and Gary Cooper — she was content to remain in the shadows where the public was concerned. As the late Manhattan jewellery expert Barry Weber once noted: “Although she is very famous in our industry, she is not a household name, such as Cartier or many of the other famous French designers... [and her work is] so rare that we seldom see it and it hardly ever comes available on the market.” Belperron never sought fame or fortune; even though jewellery houses such as Tiffany & Co. expressed interest in collaborating with her, she turned them all down, preferring to remain in working out of her apartment.

Famously reclusive, the late Suzanne Belperron was one of the most important jewellery designers of the 20th century. But who was she?

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DESIGN

Her curvilinear pieces hinted at the rebellious spirit behind her elegant, reserved countenance

Despite her reclusive personality, Belperron was far from timid. She grew up during the suffragette era with the belief that women were capable of doing anything to which they put their minds, and during the Second World War she insisted on remaining in Paris despite receiving no shortage of offers to help her escape. Indeed, she was granted the rank of the Knight of the Legion of Honour in 1963 in recognition of her efforts in the Resistance. Despite not being born into the jewellery trade, Belperron showed an aptitude for design early on and was encouraged by her mother to study art at the École des BeauxArts in Besançon. After graduating, she moved to Paris where, after a brief stint working at

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Cartier, she ed the house of Boivin in 1921. It was here, at the height of the Art Deco movement, that one started getting glimpses of her inimitable personal style. In contrast to the angular, geometric designs that were all the rage at the time, her curvilinear pieces hinted at the rebellious spirit behind her elegant, reserved countenance. Her style was finally allowed to flourish when she left Boivin in 1933 to partner with Bernard Herz, a dealer in precious stones who gave her carte blanche with her designs. The years that followed saw Belperron breaking many of the established rules that governed the industry. An avid traveller, she incorporated various techniques and stones she had picked up during her sojourns

OPPOSITE PAGE, Suzanne Belperron’s idiosyncratic designs have set the precedence for many high jewellery collections that we see today (Image courtesy of Sotheby’s) (inset) Pineapple-shaped citrine earrings, with gold leaves and yellow-gold mount; rock crystal and diamond brooch in descending scroll design THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Natural pearl and diamond brooch, circa1935; Fleur sapphire and diamond brooch, circa 1945; Sapphire and diamond ring, circa 1945; Diamond bangle in white gold; Cuff in yellow gold with tourmaline, emerald, beryls, peridot and sapphires. It holds the record for most expensive Suzanne Belperron bracelet sold at auction

abroad, never allowing herself to be awed by the material value of the stones she worked with. Indeed, as illustrated by the sapphire, diamond of Windsor, she was fond of mixing and matching precious stones with semiprecious materials such as rock crystal, smoky quartz, chalcedony and agate. Belperron was fascinated by fluidity and movement, as well as the way the stones reflected light. As a result, her rings were often sculptural in design and her creations were marked by voluptuous curves and swirls, employing unique settings not found in any other jewellery house. Some of her favourite motifs were those found in nature — grapes, flowers, leaves, birds and butterflies — and her gold jewellery often bore a distinctive textured finish. Describing the hallmarks that set her apart from her contemporaries, the journalist Cécile Sandoz wrote in a 1961 edition of the San Francisco Sunday Chronicle that her jewels possessed an “abstract fluidity

Her clientele read like a Rolodex of WSGMIX]¸WÁRIWXERHMRGPYHIHXLI(YOIERH (YGLIWWSJ;MRHWSV(MERE:VIIPERH Elsa Schiaparelli and Gary Cooper

of form, a Pharaonic or Aztec sheen that gives a centuries-old patina and a highly personal technique of setting precious gems in larger semi-precious stones”. Belperron continued working through the war. Unable to save her business partner from being taken away by the Nazis, she did the next best thing and ed the business that they shared under her name so that the Gestapo would spare it. Herz died in a concentration camp but his son, who was taken as a prisoner of war, survived and she renamed the company Herz-Suzanne Belperron when he returned in 1945. After she ed away at the age of 82, it seemed for a while as though her name was destined to fade into obscurity. However, the 1987 Sotheby’s auction of the Duchess of Windsor’s jewellery collection ensured that her name would continue to be ed; this resurgence of interest reached new heights in 2007 when her complete personal archives, which she was rumoured to have destroyed, were discovered in a small, nondescript apartment in Paris. Today, her jewels are being reissued by New York jeweller Verdura, which bought 22 jewels from the May 2012 Sotheby’s auction. Just as they were the talk of society when Belperron was still alive, so are they now as a new generation acquaints itself with her work and legendary style.

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FACETS

David Yurman

David Yurman has recently launched a new jewellery collection, Labyrinth, highlighting a combination of diamonds, coloured gemstones and silver. Bangles and a pendant necklace from the collection echo David Yurman’s signature cable design featuring a curved, twisted helix in sterling silver laced with 18k yellow gold.

Crowning SILVER JEWELLERY

etal by Sandy Tan

A style renaissance in the making

Indeed, all that glitters doesn’t always have to be gold. Silver — mostly seen as a mere setting option, rather than the star of the piece, is coming into vogue. In ancient times, silver was mined to create ornaments and jewellery as status symbols and tokens of wealth. We are now witnessing a renewed desire for this precious metal, for its lustre, understated, sculptural quality — and better affordability. Several high jewellery brands have started offering fine silver collections for the very first time: some with minimalist appeal, others with avant-garde aesthetics, but all complemented by precious gemstones.

Hemmerle

Hemmerle’s skillful juxtaposition of materials is evident in this pair of earrings, featuring silver and iron set against white gold and oldcut diamonds. The Munich-based jeweller began creating avantgarde pieces in 1995. A client, who preferred less fanciful and Berlin iron jewellery, had inspired Hemmerle to explore different types of metals in its designs.

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Vahan Jewelry

New York-based Vahan Jewellery’s moiré-beaded sterling silver and gold bracelets, first introduced in the 1990s, are cemented as timeless classics. Its latest designs feature sterling silver and 18k yellow gold, studded with diamonds. Vahan’s bracelets are a modern interpretation of the jeweller’s whimsical Neptune Bracelet, created in 1969 for Bergdorf Goodman.

Damiani

Italian jeweller Damiani has launched its first silver and diamond jewellery collection, Damianissima.925. The collection includes silver rings and pendants which feature a diamond-set structure in the shape of the letter D, interpreted from Damiani’s logo. Mother of pearl is used in softer, more delicate designs while darker tones are created with onyx.

Ferragamo Jewels

Salvatore Ferragamo debuted its jewellery collections this year, presenting the Scarpina, Intreccio, Futurista, Vara and Gancino lines. Designs such as the Vara silver cuff and Scarpina gold and silver pendants were inspired by materials used in Salvatore Ferragamo’s fashion collections, such as the buckles that embellish its bespoke shoes.

We are now witnessing a renewed desire for silver — coveted for its lustre, sculptural quality and better affordability Tiffany & Co.

“Style is to be simple,” Elsa Peretti, known for her asymmetric, organic jewellery and natureinspired designs, once said. She has designed a selection of sterling silver jewellery for Tiffany & Co. The Bone Cuff sits well on the wrist while the Feather Cuff sports more fluid lines with an infinity shape in sterling silver and black jade.

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FACETS

BREGUET by Charmaine Tai

Set on Celebrating 200 years of the first wristwatch

Two centuries ago, Abraham-Louis Breguet designed the first known wristwatch for Caroline Murat, the Queen of Naples. It was ahead of its time: an ultrathin minute repeater with an oblong case, equipped with a thermometer and mounted on exceptionally fine wristlets of hair entwined with gold thread. To celebrate this milestone, Breguet recently unveiled a limited edition timepiece, the Reine de Naples anniversary special, together with its high jewellery collection. The watch is the latest in the line of Breguet’s Grande Complications. Like Caroline Murat’s watch, the timepiece has a striking mechanism, marking every hour with two chimes repeated thrice. The striking hammers are shown on the dial, at 1 and 11 o’clock, and between them is a diamond heart of a rose engraved in gold. A hand-engraved oscillating weight in18k gold and decoration seen through the sapphire crystal caseback form an image of a Mediterranean-style garden pavilion identical to the residences of Caroline Murat. The case is an ovoid shape in 18k white gold featuring a finely fluted caseband. The bezel and caseband are set with 28 brilliant-cut diamonds and 27 blue sapphires, while the crown features a large briolette-cut diamond. The silvered gold dial and its flange are paved with 233 diamonds and 303 blue sapphires with different nuances, presenting a subtle colour gradient. And as a final touch, the watch is mounted on an alligator strap with a folding clasp set with 26 diamonds. The Reine de Naples jewellery set comprises a ring, pair of earrings, necklace and tiara, all in platinum. The central motif of the jewels in the set is an ovalcut blue sapphire, surrounded by two ovoid rings paved with baguette-cut diamonds in an echo of the case of the first wristwatch.

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INTERVIEW

the rule DELFINA DELETTREZ

reaker by Melissa Pearce

of Curiosities 76

INTERVIEW

Delfina Delettrez treads a playful line between the gothic and the ironic that can make even spiders look cheerful

OPPOSITE PAGE Spider’s web cuff THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Metalphysic cuff in gold with white marble, cat’s eye, turquoise and onyx; Metalphysic necklace in gold with pearls; Elizabeth Lips single earring in gold with ruby

he may not take herself too seriously, but Delfina Delettrez has a deep regard for artisans. She is daughter to Fendi’s head of accessories, Silvia Venturini Fendi, and she is also part-French, her father being jewellery designer Bernard Delletrez. It’s no surprise therefore that her works show an obsession to detail, being so obviously wired into the familial DNA. Her childhood was spent in Rome, Rio de Janeiro and a village in the south of . She now does shows in Paris, but Rome is where she has based her workshop. Alongside the best in the profession, Delettrez brings her tongue-in-cheek creations to life.

WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PIECES OF JEWELLERY TO WORK ON? I love to design necklaces. You can play more with enamels and the most unusual and fragile materials. I like chokers very much because of their rigidity and the fact that they are attached to the neck in a way that gives an immediate regality to your allure. IS THERE A NECKLACE YOU ARE PARTICULARLY PLEASED WITH MORE THAN OTHERS AND WHY? The resin heart chokers from my collection Love is in the Hair, which are leather chokers to which you can attach resin hearts that you can personalise, putting souvenirs inside — for example hair. Through those, I can carry a little part of the people I love with me — it’s a different way to have them close to me even when it’s not possible. The two hearts I am extremely bound to are one containing my daughter’s first curl of hair (The First Cut) and one holding one of my closest friends’ hair (The Friendship). WHAT INSPIRED THIS PARTICULAR DESIGN? These necklaces combine two particular inspirations: one of my favourite artists Frida Kahlo, specifically her Self-Portrait with Cropped Hair (1940), and a modern reinterpretation of

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Image of the Marchesa Casati © Ryersson & Yaccarino/The Casati Archives, www.marchesacasati.com

INTERVIEW

the concept of Victorian jewels and the period’s use of mourning jewellery. IS THERE SOMETHING ONE NEEDS TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN DEG NECKLACES? I try not to exaggerate the weight of the jewels. WHAT IS INSPIRING YOUR WORK AT THE MOMENT? There might be a recurring inspiration or something very specific to now but nature is my greatest source of inspiration. It’s a constant evolution and a constant discovery. WHAT WAS THE FIRST PIECE OF JEWELLERY YOU EVER MADE? My first creation was a necklace with skulls. I got the inspiration during a trip to Cuba where I found some coloured Santería (a religion in which African Yoruba deities are identified with Roman Catholic saints) necklaces made of seeds at a market. I fell in love with their colours and their lightness. With my first necklace I wanted to recreate that effect by putting together a lot of small handmade skulls in bone, silver, golden silver and onyx, one after the other, in order to make the alternation of the colours stand out from a certain distance. I find input for my jewels all around me, sometimes in the simplest things and in cultural traditions different from mine.   WHEN DID YOU REALISE YOUR INTEREST IN MAKING JEWELLERY? When I felt the need to make jewellery for myself.

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  WHAT KIND OF WOMEN WEAR YOUR JEWELLERY? Women with strong personalities, a great sense of irony and a greater sense of humour. Women who give importance to the accessory and don’t fear being unconventional, who are not afraid to be noticed.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Marchesa Luisa Casati is one of Delettrez’s icons; Metalphysic necklace in gold with pearls; First Cut resin choker from the Love is in the Hair collection

YOU’VE MENTIONED THAT FASHION ICON MARCHESA LUISA CASATI IS SOMEONE YOU IRE. Very much. Her strong character showed in her personal style: she was so eclectic, so different. She explained herself best with her most famous quote, “I want to be a living work of art”.   ARE THERE ANY JEWELLERY DESIGNERS YOU IRE? I ire everything that is innovative. I like smart jewels. I look up to people who dedicate time and research to their creations. For example, people who forge an association between classic jewellery and new materials and technologies.   WHAT IS THE MOST ENJOYABLE ASPECT OF YOUR JOB? ANY FAVOURITE MATERIALS? The length of time it takes to create a piece — the jewellery’s journey from the idea to the finishing and the result — is long and cannot be made shorter. In a world where everything is so hectic, it’s a big exercise in keeping calm. This long period of time allows you the freedom to make some changes during the finishing process: it’s a continuous metamorphosis. At the moment my favourite material is marble. It’s cold, rigid and very pure; I like the white one from Carrara (in Tuscany, Italy) that I’ve used in my latest collection Metalphysic, because it gives a sense of lightness. DO YOU COLLECT ANYTHING? I collect a lot of things — skulls, insects, vinyl records, old anatomy books, dresses from Roman haute couture, antique miniature mirrors. I’m fascinated by the way insects move; they seem like little robots. Looking at their mechanical movements mesmerises me; I can spend a lot of time watching them. I collect spiders, butterflies, beetles and all the strange things that I find in taxidermist shops or in markets around the world. I display them in my office, boutique and home. I love them!

“I like chokers very much because they are attached to the neck in a way that gives an immediate regality to your allure”

REVIEW BIENNALE DES ANTIQUAIRES

Palace by Y-Jean Mun Del Salle

Dreams of

The Biennale des Antiquaires proved to be the perfect staging ground for fabulous haute joaillerie

The year is 1956. In Paris, Pierre Vandermeersch, President of the National Union of Antiques Dealers, together with several young traders, had come to the conclusion that casual visits to antiques shops dispersed throughout the city no longer enticed collectors and connoisseurs, and that what was needed was an infusion of extravagance and glamour through a single grand event in the form of the Antiques Fair of , which would assemble a diverse group of antiquarians in a majestic display of strength and unity. Initially based at the Palais des Expositions and placed together with household appliances, the fair was soon searching for a more prestigious venue worthy of the objects on show. Subsequently, in 1962, André Malraux, the then French minister of culture, offered the Grand Palais — originally built for the Universal Exhibition (world fair) of 1900 — to the antiquarians and decorators to showcase their wares, which proved to be a magical gateway to freedom and fantasy. Amid the pavilions, gardens, flower shows and opulent objects of ancient art, the beau monde socialised at debutante balls and gala evenings. Vandermeersch described their goal in the preface of the show’s catalogue: “An international exhibition where the

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French could prove their worth, invite their neighbours, and lend an additional jewel to the prestige of Paris.” In 1964, an elite group of French fine jewellers were invited to inject sparkle to the event. Having already turned Paris into a jewellery hub, they were recognised for sharing the same ideals as their antiquarian counterparts through their relentless pursuit of perfection in creativity and craftsmanship, although engaged in different spheres of activity. Demands placed by their clients were just as challenging, for both artists and artisans must imbue their creations with soul

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Bouquet d’Ailes brooch set with emeralds, colored sapphires, fine stones and diamonds, BOUCHERON; Guipure Framboise Rebrodée earrings in 18k ping gold with pink tourmalines, fire opals, amethysts and purple spinels, DIOR; Dear Dior Dentelle Tourmalinee Rebrodée ring in yelellow gold, diamonds, ds, fancy yellow diamonds, chrysoberyls, yls, emeralds, demantoid oid garnets, haüynes, fire opals, peridots andd Paraïba tourmalines; es; the Grand Palais inn Paris was originallyy built as an exhibition on space and museum m in 1897; Comet Toi Moi ring with pink and blue diamonds, s, CHANEL; Cancerr clip with pearl, diamonds and onyx, yx, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

and pay tribute to tradition without being restricted by it. And in this way, every two years, the best antique dealers converged to form a temporary museum for the pleasure of the world’s greatest collectors. The fair thereafter moved to different locations owing to renovation work and other incidents at the Grand Palais, before returning to the grande dame’s glass dome in 2006. Fast-forward to 2012 and the 26th edition of what is now called the Biennale des Antiquaires was in full swing from 14 to 23 September. The event has become a notto-be-missed date in the world art market calendar, and this year antiquities and artistic treasures that attest to mankind’s origins were on display, spanning diverse fields from archaeology and Asian art to 18th-century furniture and modern paintings. Over 100 world-renowned art and antique dealers and 10 contemporary fine jewellers — Boucheron, Bulgari, Cartier, Chanel, Chaumet, Dior, Harry Winston, Piaget, Van Cleef & Arpels and Wallace Chan — presented more than 10,000 rare and beautiful objects worth over USD50 billion, some never seen in public before. At the heart of the Grand Palais, visitors were greeted by scenography designed by Karl Lagerfeld himself. He floated a hot-air balloon above magnificent structures with open windows reminiscent of Rue de Rivioli’s covered shopping arcades; an evocation of the Champs-Élysées and the capital’s greatest monuments. In addition to Bulgari and Wallace Chan making their first-ever Biennale appearance at the 2012 edition, visitors saw the return of Chaumet and Boucheron after almost 20 and eight years of absence, respectively. Celebrities — including Sophie Marceau for Chaumet, Salma Hayek-Pinault for Boucheron and Lou Doillon and Charlotte Casiraghi for Chanel — attending the Biennale’s charity gala dinner on 12 September enjoyed a sneak preview of the works of art before the show opened to the public.

Looking at the Stars

For its fourth participation at the Biennale, Chanel presented more than 100 creations at its booth designed by American architect, Peter Marino, which took visitors back in time by faithfully recreating Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel’s Rue du Fauboug Saint-Honoré apartment when she presented her fine jewellery collection in 1932. The original

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REVIEW IEW

massive Coromandel folding olding screens sshe he once owned were specially ially flown in to o adorn the exhibition space. Chanel hanel highlighted highlightted its 80-piece 1932 anniversary ersary collection, a contemporary version off Bij Bijoux de d Diamants, Dii t the first and only high jewellery collection created 80 years ago by Gabrielle Chanel. The label gave an eloquent lesson on the maturity of its savoir-faire since the creation of its jewellery department in 1993, which is in the process of opening an in-house jewellery workshop at Place Vendôme. For the very first time, Chanel proposed a headpiece jewel sparkling with diamond stars and softened with fine baguette-diamond chains that flow over the hair. Another first was its extensive use of coloured diamonds – 15 new pieces were produced in a magical assemblage of white, yellow, pink, blue and green diamonds. The Comète Toi et Moi ring in white gold set with a cushion-cut blue diamond and radiant-cut pink diamond, together with triangle-cut and brilliant-cut white diamonds, is valued at €2.2 million. Since 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels has combined technical innovation and creativity with multiple inspirations, as in the image of its Alhambra sautoir, Zip necklace or Fairy clip, all icons of the house. At the Biennale, it gambled on the theme of luck through its Palais de la Chance collection filled with auspicious symbols — from ladybirds and four-leaf clovers to unicorns and the Chinese panchang woven knot — and struck gold with its Zodiac Set representing the 12 star signs of Western astrology. CEO Stanislas de Quercize says: “Everything starts with a sentence from Jacques Arpels, a member of the founding family, who said, ‘To be lucky, you have to believe in luck.’ If you’re positive, then luck will meet you. We thought it was a nice story to tell.”

Fashion Forward

Then there were the couture influences. For Dior’s third participation at the Biennale, Victoire de Castellane drew inspiration from the couture jewels of Christian Dior in the 1950s. De Castellane has reinvented those rhinestone and bead accessories, which have been replaced with precious stones, while

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keeping the dream initiated by the couturier intact. Over 24 months, she designed 20 one-of-akind and 10 reproducible pieces in a variety of volumes and colours for the Dear Dior collection, in addition to some 100 other Dior Joaillerie pieces. Dear Dior is infused with very Parisian couture codes that represent the ultimate homage to the couturier and brand founder. The back of each jewel recaptures hidden details in the same manner as the lining on the couture dresses created by Monsieur Dior, with the gold and jewel handcraftsmanship guaranteed by the finest Parisian artisans. “Generally speaking, the main theme of this collection is colour, couture and femininity. For the colour, I wanted unusual stones in very varied combinations,” says de Castellane. For its second outing at the Biennale des Antiquaires, Piaget created a 59-piece jewellery collection based on feminine seduction, showcasing tassels, ribbons, lace and corsets using gold, diamonds, spinels and rubellites. The Couture Précieuse Exceptional Cuff Watch Radiant Laces Inspiration in white gold, brilliant-

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Ruban Mademoiselle pink ring, CHANEL; Couture Précieuse necklace in 18k white gold set with 18 rubellite drops, PIAGET; Dear Dior Bouquet d’Opales brooch and ring, DIOR; Bracelet in platinum, one 8.02k opal, chrysoberyl, opal beads, emerald beads and diamonds, CARTIER; Dear Dior Résille Bouquet d’Opales earrings; 12 Vendome tiara in platinum, set with white opal and pigeon-blood ruby, CHAUMET; Chameleon bracelet with tourmalines, sapphires and diamonds, BOUCHERON; handcrafting techniques at Piaget’s atelier

sapphires, rubies, diamonds, purple jade, spinels and white, blue or black opals; hair clips, pins and sculpted combs become precious head ornaments.

Opal Fever

cut diamonds and baguette-cut diamonds resembles a laced-up corset, while the Couture Précieuse Necklace Diamond Embroidery Inspiration, embroidered with gold filaments and diamonds on an entirely open-worked, articulated structure, dresses the skin with diamond guipure lace.

Momentous Comebacks

Boucheron began a vibrant new chapter with L’Artisan du Rêve, its first Biennale collection since 2004. Divided into nine chapters, the collection unveiled nine universes, or nine doors, which open onto the heart of the 154-year-old house’s heritage. After almost two decades of absence, Chaumet presented a 40-piece 12 Vendôme collection referencing the address of the house’s private mansion and its current 12th workshop director. Numbered from one to 12, the parures, the quintessence of Parisian elegance yet with a hint of irreverence, embody the style and creativity of 12 Place Vendôme in delicate combinations of emeralds,

The opal made a strong revival. Dior’s Dentelle Opale d’Orient bracelet, worth close to one million euros, features a majestic Australian black opal. De Castellane notes: “The opal. Because of its fires, it seems to be alive. Like Monet’s Water Lilies, it possesses every colour as if a genie was living inside it.” The Dear Dior collection is infused with oriental and exotic inspirations evident through the use of green Paraïba tourmalines, fire opals, Ethiopian Welo opals, Lightning Ridge black opals, emeralds, white, fancy yellow and fancy green diamonds, pink and orange spinels, rubellites, sapphires, apatites, sphenes and spessartite garnets. Cartier outdid itself this year, further reinforcing its moniker of ‘king of jewellers’. Among the Biennale’s oldest exhibitors, it has presented its wares there since 1964. Having the fair’s largest booth, it showcased its Dépaysement collection comprising 148 creations that included 12 precious objects and five high-jewellery watches. Each piece required up to two years of work, calling on Cartier’s technical and creative expertise, including the artistic crafts of engraving and stone carving. It composed its theme around four landscapes: urban, luxurious, sun-drenched and boreal. Visitors witnessed radical designs, optical illusions in black and white, mobile spirals and contemporary architectural beauty, as well as a threedimensional menagerie including a snake that coils voluptuously around a jaw-dropping 8.02-carat opal on a bracelet in platinum, chrysoberyl, diamonds, emeralds and opal and emerald beads. Chaumet’s Aigrette tiara, crowned with the blaze of an incredible white opal, may be worn as a delicate bandeau topped with feathers or as a brooch or necklace. The Josephine tiara represents several hundred hours of workshop expertise: one central pear-cut diamond of five carats

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REVIEW

Biennale Standouts

“An international exhibition where the French could prove their worth, invite their neighbours, and lend an additional jewel to the prestige of Paris” D FL quality, 295 brilliant-cut diamonds and 100 baguette-cut diamonds, cut one by one to fit perfectly with the tiara’s curves. Chaumet President, Thierry Fritsch, comments: “This edition of the Biennale is exceptional by the quality of the items gathered. During crisis periods, investing in rare pieces of art or jewellery is the best way of protecting your heritage.”

One with Nature

Iconoclast Hong Kong-based jeweller, Wallace Chan, whose works sometimes recall that of the secretive JAR, became the first Asian jeweller invited to showcase his designs alongside Place Vendôme’s internationally established brands. His 50 explosive pieces held nothing back. Giant butterflies in jadeite, diamonds, pink and blue sapphires, rubies, lapis lazuli and tanzanites, and scorpions in rubies, demantoid garnets, fancy diamonds, yellow sapphire and alexandrite cat’s-eye rubbed shoulders with a cicada made of the most refined imperial jadeite, whose overwhelmingly green shade embodies an overflowing sense of nature’s vitality. Chan’s mystical, sculptural works merging artistry with high technology are deeply rooted in Chinese history and present strong links to nature. “As a Chinese jewellery master, I hope to bring to the Biennale the essence of oriental philosophy and Chinese culture. My jewellery pieces are created to open up a profound dialogue between cultures,” he says. Boucheron pursued its animal and nature theme, playing with snake symbols (a house

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As the first jeweller to use and work on crystal in haute joaillerie, Boucheron’s Nature de Cristal diamond and rock crystal series stands out for its light and transparency. A three-dimensional scene was created inside the dome by carving out a cavity from the crystal cabochon. Diamonds interweave under, over and inside the crystal like the branches of a frost-covered tree — resembling a snow globe sheltering a secret Garden of Eden — while a cushion-cut diamond appears weightlessly suspended on top of the rock crystal dome.

classic) and chameleon, swan and horse motifs. Choisne says: “All the pieces this year had the same starting point: Boucheron’s rich archives. The idea was to give them life again through a contemporary reinterpretation. Boucheron’s serpent from 1878, for instance, shed its skin to become the Serpent Opalescent necklace.” The Bouquet d’Ailes necklace in emeralds, coloured sapphires, diamonds and fine stones reinvents the emblematic Point d’Interrogation necklace created in 1883; taking inspiration from Boucheron’s exquisite bestiary, it is voluminous yet light with wings inspired by dragonflies and butterflies and peacock feathers. Colourful gems are assembled via the no-casting and trembleur (tremble) techniques, the latter featuring mobile elements that animate the wings, making them flutter with the movements of the wearer like magic, as if real butterflies were about to take flight. Inspired by the beauty of nature since 1932, Harry Winston’s latest collection featuring 19 newly created designs pays tribute to one of the world’s most precious elements: water. Focusing on water in all its incarnations and taking into its variations in colour, movement and form when interacting with the surrounding environment, fancy shaped and pavé diamonds evoke the fluidity of tranquil rivers and streams. Delicate strands of brilliant- and pear-cut diamonds recall the cascades of majestic waterfalls or enchanting ocean mists and baguette-cut diamonds become glacial ice crystals. But it isn’t just diamonds; water in its full kaleidoscope of shades of blues and greens is represented by deep sapphires, emeralds, icy aquamarines, bright turquoise and vivid Paraiba.

Born under the Leo star sign, the very superstitious Mademoiselle Chanel loved to reproduce the lion’s majestic figure on the buttons of her garments, and possessed numerous art objects in its image. A lion sculpted in golden rutile quartz, highlighting a diamond comet and an exceptional 32.9ct cushioncut yellow diamond, appears on a sautoir, and may also be found as a brooch in white, yellow and orange diamonds.

Cartier’s celebrated icon, the panther, stole the show with a magnificent cuff bracelet with a panther head in platinum, sculpted fossilised bone, white and yellow diamonds and onyx, and a pendant depicting a sleeping panther in platinum, sculpted petrified wood, diamonds, emeralds, onyx and cultured pearls.

Harry Winston’s stunning River Diamond necklace in platinum with 464 pear-shaped, marquise and round brilliant diamonds brings the wearer to the very heart of nature with its fluidity. Each individual stone is carefully set by hand, making each final composition unique.

@SDKHDQ YTOOHMFDQ BG

Horn Warning device or watch strap attachment? Discover the world of Fine Watchmaking at www.hautehorlogerie.org

Horn | That part of a watch case to which the strap is attached. Horns come in various shapes and are attached to the case middle.

THE FOUNDATION’S PARTNERS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | AUDEMARS PIGUET | BAUME & MERCIER | BOVET | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD CHRISTOPHE CLARET | CORUM | DE BETHUNE | GREUBEL FORSEY | HARRY WINSTON | HERMÈS | HUBLOT | IWC | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | MONTBLANC PANERAI | PARMIGIANI | PERRELET | PIAGET | RICHARD MILLE | ROGER DUBUIS | TAG HEUER | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS | ZENITH

REVIEW

rand Geometry BULGARI by Sandy Tan

An iconic jeweller débuts at the Biennale des Antiquaires

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Serpenti bracelet with pear-shaped and pavé diamonds in pink gold; Serpenti necklace in pink gold with two pearshaped diamonds and 72.49ct diamond pavé; Bracelet in pink gold with amethysts, tourmalines, peridots and brilliant diamonds; Ring in pink gold set with fancy-shaped turquoise elements with 4.76ct cushion pink sapphire, blue sapphires and diamonds OPPOSITE PAGE Elizabeth Taylor’s vintage emerald sautoir and brooch

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“Each jewel is always of its time”

Bulgari’s history reaches back more than 125 years, yet to this day its jewellery inspires lovers and is treasured by the world’s most prominent families. Participating for the first time at the 26th Biennale des Antiquaires held at the Grand Palais in Paris from 14 to 23 September, Bulgari showcased more than 100 unique pieces of jewellery created especially for the event. While each piece on display had its own design and history, all demonstrated an unmistakable reference to Bulgari’s signature style — the use of coloured gemstones, ingenious geometry and volume created in linear and rounded shapes. Such motifs hark back to Greek and Roman roots, and balance modernity with classic motifs. Its 130-metre booth also featured classical Italian outlines, with arched openings and marble-finished walls and flooring. Taking centre stage at the fair was the emblematic serpent, a symbol of Bulgari’s Mediterranean roots. The company first launched the Serpenti collection in the 1940s with coiling bracelet-watches — now a recognisably Bulgari aesthetic — decorated with diamonds. Contemporary interpretations shown at the Biennale included a new five-strand, white-gold bracelet with more than 200 cabochoncut rubies. The main conversation piece was the emerald Serpenti necklace, which has 100 emerald beads measuring up to 20mm in diameter each and weighing a total of 1.179 carats. The emeralds alternate with turquoise roundels, the pattern occasionally broken by a pear-shaped diamond. The necklace took two years to create. A one-off charismatic white-gold Serpenti necklace also demonstrates Bulgari’s intricate craftsmanship, inspired by Italian Renaissance sculpting techniques. The necklace comprises 130 white-gold

components and 3,455 diamonds. Clasps of varying sizes are connected harmoniously in a Serpenti pattern. Bulgari also presented pieces that once belonged to actress Elizabeth Taylor, an avid connoisseur and collector of its jewellery since the 1960s. The romance between Taylor and Richard Burton sparkled off-screen with gifts of Bulgari creations. On show was Burton’s gift to Taylor on her 40th birthday — the memorable sautoir necklace, which features a 50-carat sugar-loaf cabochon sapphire, complemented by bullet-cut diamond accents and a chain of pavé-set diamonds with sapphire links that Bulgari acquired at a Christie’s auction in 2011. Bulgari started buying back its vintage pieces in the 1990s when an appreciation of decorative art re-emerged. Curator Amanda Triossi, a former Sotheby’s auctioneer, says two schools of thought govern the selection of Bulgari’s vintage pieces. The first is timeliness — the emerald brooch, for instance, signified Taylor’s relationship with Burton when “she was at the height of her beauty”. The second is design — the sautoir with its clean lines and rounded shapes is iconic, says Triossi. Indeed, Bulgari’s new necklaces reflect the geometric shape of the sautoir. Another obvious inspiration for Bulgari’s Biennale collection was the flower. New one-off designs included precious rings adorned with asymmetric petals made of coral, mother of pearl and turquoise, alternating with sapphire petals framed by pavé diamonds. Triossi says that Bulgari has always stayed true to its signature, as the nostalgic collections have shown. And what is contemporary today will become vintage tomorrow. “Each jewel is always of its time,” says Triossi. “And every creation, a result of it.”

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KNOWLEDGE

COLOURED DIAMONDS by Charlene Co

Rock

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Solid sset Coloured diamonds may give traditional assets a run for their money

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A OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT Fancy yellow diamond earrings; Snowflake ring in platinum mounted with the Ember diamond, the largest reddish orange diamond rated by GIA in 2010; Butterfly brooch with pink and yellow diamonds; Gold ring with blue and pink diamonds; ring in platinum and 18k gold with over 10ct fancy intense yellow diamond THIS PAGE After World War II, Scarselli was the only jeweller in Italy who had license to sell diamonds to American troops; Platinum and 18k gold with 5ct fancy pink diamond ring; 2ct fancy intense blue diamond ring and 2ct fancy intense green diamond ring

t one of my first tenders for pink diamonds, I pointed to a stone not much bigger than a pea and asked how much that could possibly fetch. The diamantaire pointed to a flat in a well-to-do residential area visible from where we sat and said, “Just about the price of that one.” I finally understood why the security at the tender could rival that of a head of state or pop diva. There is no question that white diamonds are held in high regard, but it is their naturally coloured counterparts that are fetching dizzying amounts at auction. The key to this is rarity. Only 20 per cent of diamonds mined worldwide find their way into the jewellery trade. Of these 20 per cent, a mere one per cent is graded as fancy coloured. And within that one per cent, the stones are classified further based on the level of saturation and distribution of colour, with the value increasing exponentially with the intensity and evenness throughout the stone. It’s no surprise that such top end coloured diamonds increasingly attract serious collectors and connoisseurs.

coloured diamonds don’t usually come in sizeable roughs to begin with. Determining which shape will best highlight the intensity of the colour lies very much in the skilful hands of a gem cutter. Intriguingly, one needs to ‘subdue brilliance’ to contain the colour of the stone, whereas brilliance is an absolute must when it comes to white diamonds.

A Family Affair

Few know coloured diamonds better than Bruno Scarselli, vice president of Scarselli Diamonds, a company run by generations of diamond cutters. The Scarsellis’ inventory of coloured diamonds is legendary. The company’s very own Olympia Collection, dedicated to Bruno’s grandfather who started the family’s love affair with diamonds, stars five of its most stunning colour diamonds and is currently displayed at the American Museum of Natural History in New York. According to Bruno, who belongs to the third generation of Scarsellis, sourcing

Colours and Cuts

Fancy coloured diamonds come in yellow, pink and blue, or the most rare of them all — red. Ironically, their much-desired colour is due to impurities. Only pink diamonds are somewhat of an enigma since their colour is not due to any foreign element. Getting your hands on gem-quality coloured diamonds, however, is just half the battle; cutting and polishing them is quite another, especially since

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KNOWLEDGE

coloured diamonds has always been difficult. Challenging even when there wasn’t a market to speak of, and of course much more so now that interest in this niche trade has grown. In fact, the disparity between supply and demand has never been greater. Coloured diamonds are fetching record prices at high-profile auctions, and China and India’s growing luxury markets are starting to pay attention.

Investing in Colour

Rarity and quality have always been hallmarks of sound investments. In the past, Bruno says, few ever looked to buying diamonds as an investment, something that is no longer true today. “Given the instability in world markets, and with interest rates so low, there’s almost no reason to keep your money in the bank,” he says. “The rarity of a colour diamond, on the other hand, makes it a real asset.” But here’s the rub; coloured diamonds, while a firm investment, are tricky. In of valuation, coloured diamonds are unlike white diamonds, which have a very straightforward assessment: the 4Cs. Expertise is of paramount

importance in buying a coloured diamond. First and foremost, says Bruno, the individual who evaluates the stone should have a relationship with a first class gemmological institute. “At Scarselli, each one of us knows the rough — how to cut it and what to do with the colour. Unknown to many, it takes a special type of cutting and expertise to derive the very best out of a coloured diamond. We also have a relationship with the GIA; we even conduct lectures with their approval. We’re not partners but the GIA aims to educate people about diamonds, in the same way that I want to educate my clients about coloured diamonds,” he says. These days, a good-sized fancy coloured diamond can be just as good as any traditional hard asset, like a rare art piece or real estate. Who could have known that there would come a day when you can put a lifetime’s worth of savings in your pocket?

In the past, few ever looked to buying diamonds as an investment, something that is no longer true today 90

ABOVE Bruno Scarselli represents the third generation of Scarselli Diamonds BELOW While diamond colours are usually the result of impurities in the stone, a pink diamond is unique in that its colour is not caused by foreign elements; Platinum ring with at least 12cts fancy blue diamond and fancy light purplish-pink diamonds

BASELWORLD.COM

THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW APRIL 25 – MAY 2, 2013

KNOWLEDGE

CONCH PEARLS

Precious by Fiona Low

Imposter A rare, natural beauty conquers the hearts of pearl lovers

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KNOWLEDGE OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM TOP Atollo Conch Precious ring with pearl, coloured sapphires and diamonds in gold, ALESSIO BOSCHI; Reflection Dragonfly conch pearl brooch with fancy-cut diamonds and rubies in 18k white, yellow and rose gold, CINDY CHAO THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Conch pearl necklace with diamonds in white gold, MIKIMOTO; One-of-a-kind conch shell brooch with diamonds and pearl in gold, KIM.T; Paradis bird of paradise earrings with conch pearls and brilliant-cut diamonds in platinum and rose gold, SARAH HO; Floral brooch with conch pearls and diamonds in white gold, MIKIMOTO

In spite of their name, conch pearls are not actually pearls at all. They do not contain nacre (the coating that gives pearls their distinctive iridescent shine) and are, in fact, calcareous concentrations in the sea creature — the equivalent of kidney stones in humans. Nonetheless, despite these humble origins, they are extremely valuable owing to their unique aesthetic appeal and rarity. Conch pearls develop in the queen conch mollusc, a type of large sea snail that lives primarily in the Caribbean. It is estimated that only one in 10,000 conches will produce a ‘pearl’ and less than 10 per cent of those will be considered gem quality. Usually small in size, conch pearls occur in several colours including pink, yellow, brown and white. Those that are deep rose, pink or salmon are most sought after. The vibrancy of the ripple effect on its surface, which is known as the pearl’s flame, also determines its value. Most conch pearls come in oval or baroque shapes, while round ones are uncommon.

Conches are not harvested for their pearls, and are commonly caught by fishermen for food. Pearls are by-products of the harvest, which makes them quite rare. There is currently no widely practised method for cultivating conch pearls, although promising research is ongoing. In 2009, scientists in Florida announced the first successful cultivation of conch pearls in a laboratory setting. Its preciousness is perhaps further enhanced by the conch pearl’s ephemeral nature — over time, its colour fades dramatically. Known as ‘night gems’, conch pearls are best saved for after dark as sunlight contributes to colour fading.

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FESTIVE COLLECTIONS by Katrina Balmaceda

FESTIVE

Fire, ice and everything nice It’s the time again for mathematical glamorous functions, for looking extra beautiful, for taking out those special pieces of jewellery you reserve for just such occasions. And as homes and high streets are bedecked with trinkets, there’s no excuse for anyone to stay unadorned. Some like to match the season’s colours, be they the frosty glow of Christmas, the fireworks of year end or the cheer of Chinese New Year. Others like to stay classic — such celebrations, after all, are traditional, formed by beliefs and rituals ed on from one generation to another. We suggest some party pieces to go with various festive events.

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ON MODEL

La Rose de la Reine pearl necklace and Petite Fleur watch, ring and earrings in white gold with diamonds, all from BREGUET

THIS PAGE 1. Sapphire and diamond brooch in white gold, LING & IRVING; 2. Cypress 13.8ct necklace and 4.7ct earrings, HOF; 3 Earrings in rose gold with pink and white diamonds, MONDIAL; 4 Ceylon sapphire floral ring with diamonds in white gold, LING & IRVING; 5 Winter ring with black and white diamonds and topaz, PALMIERO

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Frost

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Show up at Christmas dinner with the appropriate EGGIWWSVMIWJIEXYVMRKÁKYVIWJVSQWRS[ÂEOIWERH snowmen to cypress twigs and stars. White diamonds, luminous pearls and light-coloured gems such as PMKLXFPYIXSYVQEPMRILIPTVIÂIGXXLI[MRXIVGLMPPERH LMKLPMKLXXLIWMKRMÁGERGISJ(IGIQFIVEVSYRHXLI [SVPH+IXTPE]JYP[MXLVMRKWWLETIHPMOIKMJXFS\IW complete with diamond-studded ribbons. 95

1. Lueur d'un Soir collier in white gold with black and white diamonds, CHANEL; 2. Ring in white gold with brilliant-cut diamonds, one pear-shaped diamond and rock crystals, CARTIER; 3. Perle de Rosee collier in 18k white gold, diamonds, black and grey spinels, moon stones and pearls, CHANEL; 4. Diamond necklace, MONDIAL 5 Diamond ring, MONDIAL; 1

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The end of one year and the FIKMRRMRKSJXLIRI\XEVISJXIRQIX [MXLFSXLVIÂIGXMSRERHVIWSPZI-X is a time when one sees things in FPEGOERH[LMXIXVYXLJYPP]EWWIWWMRK XLITEWXERHGSRÁHIRXP]TPERRMRK JSVXLIJYXYVI)\TVIWWXLMWGPEVMX] of mind with white gold, white HMEQSRHW[LMXITIEVPWFPEGOIRIH HMEQSRHWERHFPEGOSR]\%HHE FPEGOWXVETTIH[EXGL[MXLEJEGI JYPP]TEZIH[MXL[LMXIHMEQSRHWXS QEVOXLMWTEWWMRKSJXMQI

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Finesse

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6. Elixir ring in 18k blackened gold with rose-cut diamond and colourless diamonds, DIAH D; 7. Flex'it earrings in 18k white gold and black diamonds, FOPE; 8. Arceau Full Pave watch in 18k white gold with 639 pavé diamonds, HERMÈS; 9. Flex'it bracelets in 18k white gold and black and white diamonds, FOPE; 10.Elixir cuff in 18k blackened gold with black diamonds, DIAH D

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1. Karya Anggun earrings in 22k gold earrings, POH KONG; 2. Cordoba ring in yellow gold, CARRERA Y CARRERA; 3. Champagne and brown diamond ring with gold, DE GRISOGONO; 4. Gemstone ring, VERDI GIOELLI; 5. Unique necklace, ROBERTO COIN; 6. Diamond and rose gold ring, ANNAMARIA CAMMILI; 7. Le Grand Frisson ring in gold, CHAUMET; 8. Oro Rosa earrings, VERDI GIOELLI; 9. Karya Anggun earrings in 22k gold, POH KONG 98

Fire

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When the clan gathers for Chinese New Year, attract prosperity and good fortune with statement pieces in yellow gold and red and SVERKIKIQW8V]EGGIWWSVMIW[MXLWGVSPPPMOI TEXXIVRWSVÁRHEYRMUYITMIGIXLEXGSQFMRIW both red and gold in an elegant design.

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DESIGN

Jakarta’s

Treasures

Synergy iguana necklace in silver with gold, amethysts, white fossilized stone and various gems from the Giana Mayra collection, UTTY JEWELLERY

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JAKARTA by Lulu Fuad

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Indonesia’s bustling capital is home to some of the most vibrant and unforgettable jewellery designs ith 17,500 islands spanning more than 3,200 miles, Indonesia is the world’s largest archipelago, enriched by diverse cultures and natural resources like gold and silver. It is also a source of gems. Diamonds can be found in Kalimantan, South Sea Pearls in Bali, Lombok, Sumbawa and West Papua Province, and black opals in West Java. Indonesians have the art of jewellery making in their blood, strongly influenced by ethnic traditions, religion and symbolic values. As the country’s capital, Jakarta benefits from the riches and skill that the land has to offer. It has become a hub of fine Indonesian jewellery, and is home to many design houses originating from other parts of Asia, the Americas and Europe. Giant malls scattered over the metropolis house some of the nation’s most exclusive jewellers, with Plaza Indonesia one of the main stops frequented by the country’s tycoons and celebrities. For the jewellery aficionado, Grand Indonesia, Plaza Senayan, Pacific Place, Senayan City and Pondok Indah Mall are worth exploring most. Jakarta offers jewellery at competitive prices, and styles that blend European and Asian tastes. The city has established a reputation for haute couture jewellery, with handcrafted silver and gold pieces made locally. Designers like John Hardy (originally from Bali), Reny Feby, Utty Wakkary and Franky Wongkar are based here, just a few of the names one should when looking for one-of-a-kind pieces that are both beautiful and fashion-forward. Here are some of our favourites:

UTTY JEWELLERY Utty Jewellery/Giana Mayra by Utty Wakkary specialises in elaborate, whimsical pieces that are mostly inspired by nature and created to stand out. Designer Utty likes working with materials that can be found locally. She has released several collections using diamonds, rubies, pearls, kunzite, amethyst, turquoise, tourmaline and, most recently, black coral. Jl. Gunawarman 57 Jakarta Selatan Alun-Alun, Grand Indonesia +62 81 58124165 / +62 81 6847204, by appointment only

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DESIGN

FRÉJ AND FRÉJ [79AU] Jeffrey Jeff and Franky Wongkar are the two creative minds behind Fréj and fréj [79Au]. Their pieces are bold fashion statements, and they like playing around with materials. The pair believe that the more important aspect of jewellery design is the concept, not the value. Their latest collection, Pencils, features jewellery fashioned from gold and what looks like many short pencil slabs. They also use pieces of vibrantly colourful agate slabs set in gold-plated silver to create striking necklaces and bangles. Jl. Zamrud Raya No.123, Permata Hijau Blok. E Jakarta-Selatan 12210 +62 81 18301310, by appointment only

Necklace with six pieces of azure-dyed agate slabs set in 18k gold-plated silver Pencils “Twisted” short necklace handfabricated with 2B graphite pencils set in brass collets and intricate brass chains

The city has established a reputation for haute couture jewellery 102

DESIGN

RENY FEBY JEWELRY (RFJ) RFJ’s founder, Reny Feby has always been inspired by the diversity and beauty of Indonesia’s heritage. She creates limitededition collections using pearls, diamonds, rubies, emeralds and other precious stones. Most of her pieces are grand and elegant, worthy of the socialites that wear them. Her works are favourites among Indonesia’s elite, and she works with an international clientele from Brunei, Malaysia, Japan, Saudi Arabia, Dubai, Egypt, the US and all the way to Brazil. Pendapha Pusthika Jl. Tirtayasa VII No. 7 Kebayoran Baru – Jakarta Selatan 12160 +62 21 7247487

Le Papillon brooch with natural rubies, emeralds and diamonds intricately crafted in white gold

Giant malls house some of the nation’s most exclusive jewellers, with Plaza Indonesia one of the main stops 104

STYLE

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Soleil earrings in white gold, yellow diamonds and diamonds; Camélia Brodé sautoir in white gold, Akoya pearls and diamonds; Perles Et Noeud bracelet in white gold, pearls and diamonds; Soleil ring in white gold, yellow diamond centre stone and diamonds, all from CHANEL Black viscose halterneck dress, ETRO

Perfection Bold jewels and timepiece essentials for an opulent ensemble

PHOTOGRAPHY: MUN KONG / PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: ALFRED PANG FASHION STYLIST: JUMIUS WONG & JACK WANG / FASHION ASSISTANT: CANDICE JUDITH 107

STYLE Earrings in platinum with blue sapphires and round emeralds with necklace in white gold with round brilliant cut diamonds, BULGARI; Chiffon top with structured peplum bustier, VALENTINO

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Diorette rings in yellow gold with diamond, citrine, amethyst, tsavorite, pink sapphire, mandarin garnet, tsavorite and lacquer; Rose pre catelan ring, yellow gold, diamonds, and red coral; My Dior ring in yellow gold with diamonds; My Dior ring in rose gold with diamonds, all from DIOR JOAILLERIE; Saxonia Dual Time watch in white gold, A.LANGE & SÖHNE Satin dress, DIOR

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STYLE

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Ms Protocol necklace in 18k white gold and Limelight cocktail ring in 18k white gold and precious stones, PIAGET; Grande Reverso Calendar watch in pink gold, JAEGERLECOULTRE; Gold sequined dress with leather waistbelt, BURBERRY LONDON

“Charm, in most men and nearly all women, is a decoration.” − EM Forster

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STYLE

Ladies First Chronograph Ref. 7071/G watch in white gold with dark blue alligator strap, PATEK PHILIPPE; Black dress with red foliage brocade details, MARC JACOBS

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High Jewellery earrings in white gold set with blue sapphires, CHOPARD; Infinity Safari watch in white gold with alligator strap, FRANCK MULLER; Dress, MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA for H&M

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STYLE

Royal Oak Chronograph Ref. 26128OR watch in diamond-set pink gold case with black crocodile strap, AUDEMARS PIGUET; Leman Full Paved Tourbillon Ref. 2926-5222-92S watch in white gold set with baguette-cut diamonds, BLANAIN; Black velvet halterneck dress, BOTTEGA VENETA

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Hairstylist: Sean Ang, using L’Oreal Professional Makeup Artist: Ginger Lynette, using Urban Decay Cosmetics Model: Puvana / Looque Models

Rhodolite Garnet whitegold Reine de Naples earrings with round diamonds and peridots; Rhodolite Garnet white-gold Reine de Naples ring with round diamonds and rhodolite garnet; Reine de Naples Ref. 8939BB/6D/864 DD0D watch in 18k white gold, all from BREGUET; Green silk wrap dress, RAOUL

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Bulgari’s first watch exhibition, The Magnificence of Time, opened in September with a grand cocktail at the IFC Mall in Hong Kong. On show were the company’s most complicated timepieces, such as the Grande Sonnerie Perpetual Calendar and the rare Giocatore Veneziano automaton pair; and master watchmaker Pascal Legendre flew in to show how some of the intricate timepieces were put together. Lelio Gavazza, managing director for Greater China, and Guido Terreni, managing director of Bulgari Horlogerie, officiated at the event, and presented guest of honour, Cantopop singer Andy Hui with the latest version of the brand’s OCTO steel watch. Also in attendance were Leigh Tung, Stephen King, Daphne Yao, Audry Ai, and Yolanda Choy.

Sparkling 120

Soirées Toasting unique collections, a Hollywood-style gala, a boutique opening and an auction for a cause

ATELIERGALAS

Mechanical Revelry Bulgari highlights its watchmaking expertise with a travelling exhibition Bulgari’s first watch exhibition, The Magnificence of Time, opened in September with a grand cocktail at the IFC Mall in Hong Kong. On show were the company’s most complicated timepieces, such as the Grande Sonnerie Perpetual Calendar and the rare Giocatore Veneziano automaton pair; and master watchmaker Pascal Legendre flew in to show how some of the intricate timepieces were put together. Lelio Gavazza, managing director for Greater China, and Guido Terreni, managing director of Bulgari Horlogerie, officiated at the event, and presented guest of honour, Cantopop singer Andy Hui, with the latest version of the brand’s OCTO steel watch. Also in attendance were Leigh Tung, Stephen King, Daphne Yao, Audry Ai, and Yolanda Choy. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Sharon Cheung with Kam Kwok Leung; Priscilla Ku & son Andrew Chan; Fiona Marin, Shirley Hiranand, Pascal Brandt, Leigh Tung, Anne Liu, & Yolanda Choy; Valerie Liang, Vivien Liang & Anthony Zeng; Lelio Gavazza, Andy Hui & Guido Terreni

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ATELIERGALAS

A Night to Chopard pays tribute to legendary star Marilyn Monroe with an evening of high jewellery and regalia One-off timepieces and colourful jewellery with rubies, emeralds, padparadscha sapphires, tanzanite and kunzite were the highlight of the gala dinner commemorating Marilyn Monroe, held by Chopard at the W Hotel on Sentosa island, Singapore, on 19 September. The Red Carpet 2012 and High Jewellery collections were presented for the first time in Singapore, along with 25 photographs of Ms Monroe shot by photographer Milton Greene. Chopard’s co-president and artistic director, Caroline Scheufule, hosted the event together with Singapore managing director, Patrick Normand. The company’s high jewellery expert, Carlo Tommasini, was also in attendance. The guests were treated to a fashion show, musical performances and a live deejay. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Caroline Scheufele with Rany Moran; Shabnam Arashan; Nina Ng; Theresa Halim and Diana Wijaya; a model wearing Chopard jewellery; Gerti Iwatake, Dick Lee, Rasina Rubin, Elena Iwa

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ATELIERGALAS

Silverscreen Affair Jaeger-LeCoultre shows its for the Chinese film industry with a unique auction On the opening night of the 2012 Shanghai International Film Festival, Jaeger-LeCoultre hosted a public auction and party in of the Chinese film industry. The Hotel Waterhouse was host to more than a thousand guests from all over the world, including Zhao Wei, Aaron Eckhart, Maria Grazia Cucinotta and French director Jean-Jacques Annaud. Director Jia Zhangke and actress Zhao Tao donated a camera to the auction; director Wang Quan’An gave a viewfinder; and Miss World Zhang Zilin offered a dress made of antique lace that she wore on the red carpet. Jaeger-LeCoultre donated a special piece to the auction, too, the Rendez-Vous Night & Day ladies watch, with a mother-ofpearl dial and set with 191 diamonds. All proceeds went into a fund for the restoration of classic Chinese films. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The Rendez-Vous Day & Night watch, actress Zhao Wei, celebrities wearing Jaeger-LeCoultre watches; Jia Zhangke with Zhao Tao; director Jean-Jacques Annaud

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ATELIERGALAS

Relaxing Reception Philip Stein celebrates its first Singapore boutique with a sparty Philip Stein’s first Singapore boutique opened to great fanfare, featuring a fashion show, spa treatments and cocktails for all the guests, who included celebrities like Irene Ang, Bobby Tonelli, Jamie Teo, Daniel Boey and Pat Law. The brand’s founder and president, Will Stein, hosted the event together with of the Norbreeze Group, distributors of Philip Stein in Singapore. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Anders Peter on stage; Jamie Teo, Daniel Ong and Will Stein; Daniel Ong, Jaime Teo, Bobby Tonelli, Beatrice Chia-Richmond, Daniel Boey, Will Stein, Irene Ang, Anders Peter, Irene Ang and Daniel Boey; Dr Ann Tan with Anders Peter

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ATELIER HOROSCOPE Zodiac Set Aquarius clip with diamonds, mystery-set sapphires, lapis lazuli and diamonds, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

A QUARTERLY FORECAST by Olive Cuenca

Capricorn

(22 DECEMBER - 19 JANUARY)

The past few months have been hectic and there’s no guarantee that things will slow down, especially during this festive season. Before things get even crazier, find time to check on your health and catch up on errands you’ve been putting off. Diamond brings good fortune.

Pisces

(19 FEBRUARY – 20 MARCH)

A rosy year with plenty of accomplishments is in store, but only if you arm yourself with the right tools. Learn a new skill, further your studies and go the extra mile to engage in meaningful conversations with teams outside of your office environment. Tanzanite, with its bluish to purple shade, will make people at work realise you’re a truly rare gem.

Aries

(21 MARCH – 19 APRIL)

The future holds promise and the end of the year serves as your opportunity to start making great things happen. Your positive aura will help you attract new friends and irers. Citrine, in its yellow to golden hues, will bring cheer.

Taurus

(20 APRIL – 20 MAY)

Use this time to refocus and reflect on past mistakes to facilitate your personal and career growth. Keep an open mind and welcome any help from family and friends. Exercise caution in your investments and health. Sapphire promotes clear thinking and allows your sincerity to shine through.

Gemini

(21 MAY – 20 JUNE)

There are social gatherings aplenty and you are bound to amaze everyone with your multifaceted personality. Share what you

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Aquarius (20 JANUARY – 18 FEBRUARY)

new challenges ahead. An exciting new project will kick start your year, and lay the foundation for a possible promotion at work. Exciting times indeed, but watch your health and personal life. Tiger-eye promotes balance, prosperity and vitality.

Virgo

Managing expectations is what you do best, Learn when to say no, and one of these days your skill will be especially to tasks that put to a truly challenging test. Trust your judgement and be firm with your decisions. are beneath you. This Take control of your career and welcome new will allow your higheropportunities. Tourmaline attracts positive energy and fosters cool headedness. ups to see your real worth, and reward you Libra with more meaningful Torn between career and personal life, you responsibilities. A much- will have to make a decision sooner or later. Weigh your priorities and choose the one that needed break will help will truly make you happy. An unexpected message from an old friend may help. you refocus. Amethyst, and jasper promote clarity in your birthstone, will guide Aventurine decision-making. you on your journey. Scorpio (AUGUST 23 – SEPTEMBER 22)

(23 SEPTEMBER – 22 OCTOBER)

(23 OCTOBER – 21 NOVEMBER)

have and nurture relationships. Opal, with its interplay of shimmering colours, will amplify your grace, dynamism and fortune.

Cancer

(21 JUNE – 22 JULY)

Embrace change. The coming year will bring about new challenges and responsibilities, which will call for a new strategy and attitude. Jade, with its subtle and translucent colours, brightens the mind and promotes sharp thinking.

Leo

(JULY 23 – AUGUST 22)

Celebrate past achievements and brace for

It’s the time for merry-making and there are plenty of opportunities to mingle. Network with peers and an acquaintance might just open up bright career prospects for you. Emerald, garnet and ruby are your trusty career companions.

Sagittarius

(22 NOVEMBER – 21 DECEMBER)

Work tasks may seem numerous but take the time to tackle them one by one and you will be rewarded immensely. Your finances are average but your personal life is rosy. Keep a happy disposition. South Sea pearl, which takes years to form, will remind you that success knows no short cuts.

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ATELIER RING RINGGUIDE GUIDE

Your Ring Rings are very intimate pieces of jewellery; some are worn every day. This means it should fit well and feel comfortable. Here are some important sizing tips:

Finding Your Ring Size Place your ring on top of any one of these circles. The size of your ring is where the circle sits snugly around the inner circumference of the ring.

14 (17.35MM)

2 (13.21MM)

3 (13.61MM) 15 (17.75MM)

4 (14.05MM)

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Blessed Faith ring with diamonds in white gold, LARRY JEWELRY; Ring with 24.46-carat cushion-cut sapphire from Ceylon, onyx spots and nose, emerald eyes in platinum, CARTIER; Bouquet e Rose rings with topazes and diamonds in white gold, NOVARESE; Fire ring in platinum with a diamond pave, I GREGORI

16 (18.19MM)

6 (14.56MM)

17 (18.53MM) 7 (14.86MM)

18 (18.89MM)

8 (15.27MM)

9 (15.70MM) 19 (19.41MM)

Where Size Matters A person’s ring size may change over time owing to age, injury or weight change. A jeweller may be able to resize your ring, although this depends on its design.

If your finger falls between two sizes, choose the larger size to make sure it will fit; a wider ring may require a slightly larger size, because it covers more of your finger.

Measure your finger size at the end of the day when your fingers are at their largest (like sizing shoes).

Wrap a piece of string or a strip of paper around your finger. Mark the point where the two ends meet. Measure the string or paper against a ruler to get the circumference of your finger. Divide that by 3.14 to get the diameter of your finger. Look up your ring size using the table shown on the right.

Don’t measure finger sizes when your hands are cold; let them warm up to room temperature.

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10 (16.00MM)

20 (19.84MM)

12 (16.51MM)

21 (20.02MM) 13 (16.92MM)

ATELIERSHOWDIARY FACETS

January 2013

May 2013

September 2013

5-7 JAN

18-22 MAY Vicenza Oro Spring Vicenza, Italy www.vicenzaoro.org

1-3 SEP JAA International Jewellery Fair Sydney, Australia www.jaa.com.au

31 MAY – 3 JUN JCK Las Vegas Las Vegas, USA Lasvegas.jckonline.com

1-4 SEP International Jewellery London London, UK www.jewellerylondon.com

31 MAY – 3 JUN Vicenza Oro Italian Club Las Vegas, USA www.vicenzaoro.org

8-12 SEP Vicenza Oro Fall Vicenza, Italy www.vincezaoro.org

June 2013

13-17 SEP HK Jewellery and Watch Fair Hong Kong, China www.jewellerynetasia.com

Mumbai Jewellery and Gem Fair Mumbai, India www.jewelleryfair.in/mumbai 19-24 JAN

Vicenza Oro Winter, T-Gold Vicenza, Italy www.vicenzafair.com 21-25 JAN

Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) Geneva, Switzerland www.sihh.org 23-26 JAN

20-23 JUN Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair Hong Kong, China www.jewellerynetasia.com

International Jewellery Tokyo Tokyo, Japan www.ijt.jp

February 2013

July 2013

2-4 FEB

6-8 OCT Delhi Jewellery and Gem Fair Delhi, India www.jewelleryfair.in/delhi

6-8 JULY JAA Brisbane Jewellery Fair Brisbane, Australia www.jaa.com.au

JAA Melbourne Jewellery Fair Melbourne, Australia www.jaa.com.au 24-26 FEB

JA Winter Show New York, USA www.nationaljeweler.com

18-21 JULY Singapore International Jewellery Show Singapore, Singapore

22-25 FEB

29-31 JULY JA New York New York, USA www.nationaljeweler.com

Inhorgenta Munich Munich, www.inhorgenta.com

August 2013

26 FEB - 2 MAR

Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair Bangkok, Thailand

March 2013 5-9 MAR

HKTDC International Jewellery Show Hong Kong, China www.hktdc.com/fair/hkjewellery-en 16-18 MAR

25 APR – 2 May BaselWorldBasel, Switzerland www.baselworld.com

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12-15 OCT Singapore Jewellery & Gem Fair Singapore, Singapore www.jewellerynetasia.com

November 2013 21-24 NOV Dubai International Jewellery Week Dubai, UAE www.jewelleryshow.com

Show

Diary

China International Gold, Jewellery and Gem Fair Shenzhen, China

April 2013

27-29 AUG Japan Jewellery Fair Tokyo, Japan www.japanjewelleryfair.com

October 2013

AGENDA

JANUARY, 19-24

MAY, 18-22

SEPTEMBER, 7-11

MARCH, 5-9

MAY 31, JUNE 3

at International Jewellery Show Hong Kong

JUNE, 20-22

2013

AUGUST

*

at Jck - Las Vegas

NOVEMBER

*

at Tecnogold - São Paulo at India International Jewellery Show Mumbai

at Dubai International Jewellery Week Dubai * Dates to be confirmed

www.vicenzaoro.org

JEWEL BOX

The little black dress has always played a key yet neutral role in any self-respecting fashionista’s wardrobe. Here now is one that ensures a head-totoe glow. ired recently at the Ukraine Fashion Week, this black diamond gown by UK designer Debbie Wingham features more than 100 carats of diamonds — 25 two-carat black diamonds on the peplum, and another 25 adorning the shrug. The rest of the dress is embellished with beads and pointer brilliants set in white-gold chain mail. Weighing a staggering 13kg, the dress took six months to finish, with all the sparkles stitched by hand. Going for GBP3.5 million (USD5.6 million), this one-off frock currently holds the world record for the most expensive dress ever made.

Dress to

Impress

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by Emilie Yabut-Razon