Syllabus - Patternmaking For Fashion Design 4t14q

CHAPTER 1: Patternmaking Essentials for the Workroom July 3, Monday Hour 1 PATTERNMAKING TOOLS ……………………………………………2 Functions of Patternmaking Tools . . . . . . . . . . .4 Guide to Reading Ruler Increments . . . . . . . . . .5 The Importance of Math . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 Hour 2 PATTERN PAPER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 PATTERNMAKING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6 FABRIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 PATTERN GRAINLINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 July 4, Tuesday Hour 1 DART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 BLENDING, TRUEING, AND EQUALIZING . . . . . . . . . . .11 SPECIAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Balance Line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Styleline Guides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Hour 2 THE WAY WE WERE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 PRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 BODY SCANNING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 COMPUTER COMPANIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16 LAST, BUT NOT LEAST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 July 5, Wednesday Hour 1 E-FIT SIMULATOR IS BORN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17 APPAREL PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 COST SHEET . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 PATTERN CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS SHEET . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21 Hour 2 Chapter review and chapter quiz

CHAPTER 2: Form Measurements And Figure Analysis July 6, Thursday Hour 1 WHO IS THE STANDARD IDEAL FIGURE? . . . . . . . . . . .23 Who Needs Her? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Does This Elusive Figure Have Standards? . . . . .23 Do Perfect Ratio Measurements Mean Perfect Proportions? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Forms: Willow-Caned to Humanlike . . . . . . . . .24 PATTERN INDUSTRY STANDARDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 DEPARTMENT STORE STANDARDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 OTHER ATTEMPTS AT STANDARDIZATION . . . . . . . . . . .25 ASTM STANDARDS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Figure Analysis for Personal Use or for Client . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Hour 2 LANDMARK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 MEASURING FORM AND MODEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31 Preparing the Form for Measuring . . . . . . . . . . .31 Preparing the Model for Measuring . . . . . . . . .32 Taking Measurements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 HORIZONTAL BALANCE LINE (HBL) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 CIRCUMFERENCE FOR FORM AND MODEL MEASUREMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33 July 7, Friday Hour 1 HORIZONTAL ARC FOR FORM AND MODEL MEASUREMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Back . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Model for Personal Fit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Neck Circumference . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 VERTICAL MEASUREMENTS FOR FORM AND MODEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 Front and Back—Form and Model . . . . . . . . . .35 Personal Fit: Asymmetric Verification . . . . . . . . .35 New Strap Measurement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 STANDARD MEASUREMENT CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 Hour 2 Chapter review and chapter quiz

CHAPTER 3: Drafting The Basic Pattern Set July 10, Monday Hour 1 THE BASIC DRESS FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Measurement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38 Creating Basic Patterns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Pattern Shapes Described . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Why Darts? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39 Manual and Computer Drafting . . . . . . . . . . . .39 FRONT BODICE DRAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 Hour 2 BACK BODICE DRAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 Increasing and Decreasing Bust . . . . . . . . . . . .44 FITTING THE BODICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 Pattern Correction for Asymmetrical Models . .45 Imperfect Alignment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 July 11, Tuesday Hour 1 FITTING THE NECKLINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 FITTING THE ARMHOLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46 SKIRT DRAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Skirt Front and Back . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 Skirt Back (for Suits and Separates) . . . . . . . . . .50 Fitting the Skirt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .51 Hour 2 SELF-EVALUATION TRUE AND FALSE TEST . . . . . . . . . . .52 PREPARING PATTERNS FOR TEST FIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 Matching ing Seams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53

July 12, Wednesday Hour 1 THE BASIC SLEEVE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Sleeve Terminology . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 SLEEVE CAP EASE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 Armhole Measurement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 SLEEVE MEASUREMENT CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .56 SLEEVE DRAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 Hour 2 ADJUSTING SLEEVE TO ARMHOLE OF BODICE . . . . . .59 Determining Cap Ease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59 Adjusting the Armhole to Accommodate Cap Ease . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61 Increase or Decrease the Biceps . . . . . . . . . . .62 Increase or Decrease Cap Ease . . . . . . . . . . . .62 Setting the Sleeve into the Armhole . . . . . . . . .63 Evaluate the Hang and Fit of the Sleeve . . . . .63 July 13, Thursday Hour 1 SEAMLESS WORKING PATTERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 SELF-EVALUATION TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65 COMPLETING THE PATTERN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Pattern Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Seam Allowance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 Basic Pattern Set—Seamed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 Hour 2 Chapter review and chapter quiz

CHAPTER 4: Dart Manipulation (Principle #1) July 14, Friday Hour 1 WHY FLAT PATTERNMAKING? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .69 WORKING PATTERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 FLAT PATTERNMAKING METHODS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 THREE FLAT PATTERN TECHNIQUES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70 The Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 Design Analysis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 PATTERNMAKING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 TEST FIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 Qualities of the Flat Pattern Patternmaker . . . .72 Hour 2 DART MANIPULATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 Principle #1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 Applying Dart Manipulation—Introduction to Design Patterns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 Patternmaking Techniques . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .73 Charting Dart Locations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74 More About Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75 Completing the Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .75 July 17, Monday Hour 1 SINGLE-DART SERIES—SLASH-SPREAD TECHNIQUE . . .77 Steps in the Process . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Center Front Waist Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77 Mid-Shoulder Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79 Center Front Neck Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79 French Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79 Hour 2 SINGLE-DART SERIES—PIVOTAL-TRANSFER TECHNIQUE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 Mid-Neck Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 Side Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .82 Mid-Armhole Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .83 Shoulder-Tip Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84

July 18, Tuesday Hour 1 THE SHOULDER DART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 The Multidispersion Working Pattern for Use When Shoulder Dart Not Required . . . . . . . .85 THE BACK NECK DART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 Excess Transferred to Armhole . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 SELF-EVALUATION TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .87 Consistency of Dart Angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Proof of Principle #1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Hour 2 TWO-DART SERIES—SLASH-SPREAD TECHNIQUE . . . . .90 Waist and Side Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .90 Mid-Shoulder and Waist Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92 Mid-Armhole and Waist Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93 July 19, Wednesday Hour 1 TWO-DART SERIES—PIVOTAL-TRANSFER TECHNIQUE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 Mid-Neck and Waist Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .94 Shoulder-Tip and Waist Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 Center Front Neck and Waist Dart . . . . . . . . . .96 SELF-EVALUATION TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97 Hour 2 Chapter review and chapter quiz

CHAPTER 5: Deg With Darts (Tuck Darts, Pleats, Flares, And Gathers) July 20, Thursday Hour 1 INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99 TUCK-DART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 PLEAT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 FLARE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100 GATHERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101 Slash-Spread Technique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .101 Pivotal-Transfer Technique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102 Hour 2 DART CLUSTERS AND DART EQUIVALENTS . . . . . . . . .103 Waist Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103 Dart Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104 Tuck-Dart Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105 Pleat Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105 Shoulder Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .106 Center Front Bust Cluster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107 July 21, Friday Hour 1 GRADUATED AND RADIATING DARTS . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Graduated Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 Radiating Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109 PARALLEL DARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 Parallel French Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 Parallel Darts at Neck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111 Parallel Darts—Cape Effect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .112 Parallel Dart Design Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . .113 Hour 2 ASYMMETRIC DARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114 Asymmetric Radiating Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . .114 Asymmetric Curved Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 Asymmetric Dart Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117

July 24, Monday Hour 1 INTERSECTING DARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118 Intersecting Dart to Waist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118 Intersecting Dart with Gathers . . . . . . . . . . . . .119 Intersecting Dart Design Variations . . . . . . . . .120 Hour 2 Chapter review and chapter quiz

CHAPTER 6: Stylelines July 25, Tuesday Hour 1 INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 CLASSIC PRINCESS STYLELINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 Classic Princess Styleline Variations . . . . . . . . .125 Hour 2 ARMHOLE PRINCESS STYLELINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .126 Armhole Princess Styleline Variations . . . . . . .128 STYLELINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .129 Styleline Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .131

CHAPTER 7: Added Fullness July 26, Wednesday Hour 1 ADDED FULLNESS: PRINCIPLE #2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133 Three Types of Added Fullness . . . . . . . . . . . . .133 Identifying Added Fullness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134 Fullness on the Princess Line . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .135 Fullness at a Semi-Yoke Above Bust . . . . . . . . .136 Added Fullness to a Dart Leg . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137 Gathers on a Style Dart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .138 Fullness to Insets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .139 Added Fullness Design Variations . . . . . . . . . .140 Hour 2 BLOUSON FOUNDATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141 Modified Blouson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142 Blouson with Increased Fullness . . . . . . . . . . . .143 Chapter review and chapter quiz

CHAPTER 8: Yokes, Flanges, Pin Tucks, and Pleat Tucks July 27, Thursday Hour 1 YOKES FOR BODICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145 Basic Front Yoke—Slash and Spread . . . . . . . .145 Basic Back Yoke—Pivotal and Transfer . . . . . .146 Back Yoke with Inverted Box Pleat . . . . . . . . .147 Back Yoke with Added Fullness/Gathers . . . .147 Back Yoke with Action Pleat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148 Yoke Design Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148 Hour 2 FLANGES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 Dart Flange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 Flange to Waist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .150 Flange Inset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .152 Flange Design Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .154 Hour 3 PLEAT TUCKS AND PIN TUCKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155 Pleat Tucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .155 Pin Tucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157 Chapter review and chapter quiz