p
p
R p are holes in fabric that are paired with functional R R R R R
buttons that serve as fasteners and as decorative buttons. puttonholes may be either made by hand sewing or automated by a sewing machine. puttonholes are the essential finishing touch on blouses, jackets and any other project that utilizes buttons for closure. They are normally stitched when the garment is finished. The simplest buttonholes are used on shirts, blouses and other light weight garments. The complex buttonholes are preferred for all tailored garments such as jackets, overcoats, etc.
R The form and size
of the buttonhole R The stitch type R The stitch bight R Stitch density
R º p
R ircle R Eyelet R Radial R With or without bar tack R Straight legs R Overlapped legs R Rounded edges R Square edges.
p R pased on the principle of lock stitch or chain
stitch. R hain stitched - good appearance and less durability. R It provides purl effect and is preferred for jackets,
light weight materials, etc. R Lock stitch - increased life and less attractive
appearance than the chain stitch.
p p
p R R R R R R R R R R R R R
The normal settings to be considered in buttonhole machines are, Height of the needle bar Needle to hook timing The position of needle and needle guard. Adjusting the feed motor to have uniform feed Adjusting knife drop position with relation to throat plate Adjusting the stroke of cloth cutting knife Replacing knife with reference to the button hole width and length Adjusting the needle thread trimmer timing Adjusting the needle thread trimmer height Adjusting the bobbin thread trimmer Adjusting presser foot lift, pedal, and take up spring tension Adjusting the thread breakage plate and all the sensors.
R According to the width of the button hole, the size of the knife is R R R
R R
chosen. The knife opens the hole in number of strokes to make neat finish. For lock stitch machines the bigger hook bobbins are available to have higher production. Operating facilitates complete data entry like the selection of pattern, editing the pattern chosen, cloth cut length, stitch density, bar tacking length, eyelet shape length, number of basting, basting pitch, pitch and width of going and returning, knife motion, speed, thread tension, and so on. Modern machines are coming with different pedal positions using which the material can be accurately positioned and stitched. It consists of intermediate position to position the fabric then sewing opposition to hold and stitch.
V º V º Sewing speed
Max. 4,200rpm, Normal 3,600rpm
Needle bar stroke
34.6mm
Size of cloth cutting knife
6.4w31.8mm (1/4"w1-1/4")
partacking width
Max. 5.0mm
puttonhole length
Max. 41mm (optional: 70mm, 120mm)
Precision of needle throwing mechanism
0.05mm
Needle thread tension
Active tension (electronic thread tension control system)
Number of stitches
Automatically computed from the size of the buttonhole
Needle (at the time of delivery)
DP×5 (#11J) #11Jw#14J
Hook
DP type, full-rotary hook
Lift of the work clamp
14mm
Auto-lifter
Provided as standard (stepping motor type)
Needle throwing system
Stepping motor
loth feeding system
Intermittent feed by stepping motor
loth cutting knife system
py double-acting solenoid
Number of standard patterns
30 patterns
Number of patterns
Max. 99 patterns
R ºV
R All kinds of data can be
entered on or selected from the operation . R Various data, such as pattern numbers and stitch shapes are indicated on the LD section with easy-to-understand pictographs.
R R large color LD touch has been adopted for the display. It gives clear displays that allow the operator to understand operating procedures. R The IP-310A can be connected to a personal computer and can store data on ompactFlash.. This allows data to be exchanged or shared among sewing machines installed in a factory or among remote factories. R The IP-310A has been provided with a process improvement ing feature through the indication of the operational state of the sewing machine, and a maintenance and management feature for indicating the needle changing timing and cleaning timing.
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R Needle thread tension for sewing parallel and
bartacking sections of buttonholes can be separately controlled through the operation and stored in memory according to various sewing conditions (e.g., type of thread, type of material and sewing speed). R The machine is able to change the needle thread tensions at the parallel and bartacking sections of the buttonhole, to produce a beautiful buttonhole shape. This capability helps greatly in preventing thread breakage. R Needle thread tension is activated at the beginning and end of sewing. This prevents unthreading of the needle thread, and thread fraying that is likely to occur at the beginning of sewing. R Thread tension for basting stitching can be specified separately.
p
R The basting stitch is effective on elastic materials such as knits. R pasting stitch: Since the needle thread is tucked in without fail,it
will never jut out of the buttonhole seams. pasting stitch can be sewn by nine rounds.
R An electronic control feature has been adopted for the material feed
mechanism, needle rocking mechanism, needle thread trimming mechanism, bobbin thread trimming mechanism, cloth cutting knife mechanism and presser bar lifting mechanism. R In addition, mechanisms such as V-belts, stop-motion mechanisms and cams have been substantially reduced to ensure operation with lower vibration and noise. R A direct-driven system that directly connects the compact A servomotor to the main shaft has been adopted. R All adjustment values are entered as data. They can be set or stored in the memory on the operation .
p
R putton sewing machines are used to attach the buttons
to the surface of the garment. R Various machines are available to different kinds of buttons. R The variables of button sewing machines are: R Size and shape of the button which determines the size and type of the button clamp R The number and disposition of holes R The form of stitching either parallel or cross, whether button is sewn shank or neck R The stitch type R The number of stitches