Dastarkhwan-e-awadh: The Cuisine Of Awadh 6t6y6r

Dedicated to the people of Lucknow and Barabanki

Contents

Foreword Preface Physical Map of the Awadh Region Historical Perspective Culinary , Techniques and Equipment

MUTTON Kundan Kaliya Raan Rizala Shahi Mutton Korma Shami Kabab Haleem Tali Arvi ka Salan Nehari Khaas Nargisi Kofta Shab Deg Patili Kabab

Pasanda Kabab Purdahnashin Kabab Kakori Kabab

POULTRY AND GAME BIRDS Murg Mussallam Murg Jahanara Gulnaar Kababs Murg-do-Pyaza Murg Korma Lagan ka Teetar

FISH Zamin Doz Machhli Machhli ke Shami Kabab Kanta Gali Machhli Khatti Machhli Dum Machhli

VEGETARIAN FARE Karele ka Dulma

Tamatar ka Dulma Dum Bhindi Gobhi Mussallam Paneer Pasanda Subz Aloo Nimona Lazeez Lauki Kathal ke Kabab

PULSES Sultani Dal Dal Masoor Mussallam Maash ki Dal Khasgi

RICE Yakhni Pulao Kofta Pulao Mutanjan Lucknawi Biryani Zarda Sheesh Ranga

Ananas ka Muzaffar

BREADS Roomali Roti Sheermal Taftan Dal Kachori Bakarkhani Warqui Paratha Kulcha

SWEET DISHES Balai ke Tukre Sewain ka Muzaffar Halwa-e-Badaam Jauzi Halwa Sohan Sheer Kadhi Sheer Branj Shakramba

CURD DISHES

Makhane ka Raita Baigan ka Raita Boorani Kheere ka Raita Phalon ka Raita

A Glossary of Spices and Ingredients Acknowledgements

Foreword

And the earth he appointed for his creatures Wherein are fruits and sheathed Palm trees, husked grain scented herb. Which of these favours of your Lord that ye deny? —Quran 55:10-3

Food occupies the highest position in most cultures and religions. The most unique example of spiritualism is manifested in a physical form … the evidence of the bounties of God and human motivation for existence. ‘Pahile Taam Badahu Kalaam’ ‘First food then communication’ is the evidence of its supreme position. Considerable spirituality revolves around food, which is blessed and elevated to the position of ‘Nemat’—the special creations of God for His most special creation, the human being. This opens up a different dimension to the subject of food: what, how much, which meal is blessed, when, where and how—and how much and most importantly when to negate food—fasting, dieting, etc. From the finer layers of all this is born the culture of food, the evolution of the ‘Zaiqa’, the taste … and it pervades the entire milieu, from festivities to celebrations, from intimate ‘nashishts’ to public ‘mahfils. The aroma rises from smoke-filled kitchens to elaborate ‘dastarkhwans’ where words and images are as cleverly woven, as condiments and herbs … where the same meat tells a

different story through its varied ‘Zaiqa’. Yet, food is an intimate feeling of loving care and warmth of human relationships. It is the most regular and the most consistent form of reinforcing tenderness. Food in Awadh had evolved to become a total experience of an occasion— fragrant, visually appealing and almost magical … and truly such is the scope of this book—extremely detailed, well researched and evocative, capturing the ambience of a bygone era perfectly. It brings to life a number of recipes and techniques that had gone into oblivion, and with it a new interest in this rich form of cuisine. It opens an enormous future for the refined international palate, the art of cooking and above all the promotion of Lucknow—because there is no substitute for enjoying this fare other than in its own milieu. It ranges from simple to the rich, exotic to the earthy, and for the gourmet it opens up a vast canvas to create and balance a wide range of menus to suit every possible taste to leave an everlasting impression.

Sunset along the river Gomti

Preface

The very mention of Lucknow, which was the seat of Awadh culture, brings to mind the tradition of ‘pehle aap’ (after you), the language dripping with politeness and the lifestyle of the nawabs. But what appeals the most is the cuisine of Awadh, which, in some ways. was a culmination of all that was best in art, culture and science.

The erstwhile province of Awadh was famous for its high standards of gastronomic etiquette. This culture is still found preserved in the sanctum sanctorum of the erstwhile landed aristocracy of Lucknow and a few ading districts that formed part of Awadh; and of course the famous ‘bawarchis’ (cooks) who, with tremendous discipline, bordering on religious fervour, still follow the traditional style of cooking, handed down to them by their ancestors. Credit goes to them for not compromising on the quality of the food prepared by them despite pressures – constraints of time and money.

The authors aim to introduce the characteristic tastes and flavours of this region to readers with the hope that the authentic cuisine from Awadh will be recreated in today’s kitchens to be savoured at the table.

In this age of frozen and fast foods, it is reassuring to find that in the kitchens of some of the erstwhile nawabs and taluqdars, life is still in tune with the natural rhythms of the seasons—and food has not basically changed for over generations. With an emphasis on traditional food that truly relies on naturally fresh ingredients, we return to an age before ‘convenience’ food, ironically complicated our eating habits.

Blessed with a rich and varied cultural heritage, India is home to a wide variety

of foods of different regions reflecting geographical and cultural differences, varieties in local produce, traditions, temperament and tempo. Yet, behind this remarkable diversity there is one thing that unites them: hospitality and love. Concern for the quality of food and the manner in which one partakes of it is important. It is usual in this region for three generations to sit together around the ‘Dastarkhwan’ (dining spread) to enjoy their meals.

Often one reads an irresistible recipe only to learn that it is not possible to reproduce it outside the narrow confines of its origin. The unavailability of ingredients is a common problem while discussing original recipes. However, we are in a particularly privileged position, because barring a few condiments the rest are easily available in any part of the world.

'The Cook': A sketch by an Englishwoman, 1838, from the book, The King of Oudh, his Brother and Attendants

Another serious difficulty, which has in fact resulted in the virtual extinction of some of the finest dishes, is the abundant use of ghee or clarified butter and spices, besides the long cooking time required. In order to suit the palate of the present generation, the recipes have been meticulously tried and tested several times with a toning down of the rich ingredients wherever possible. Both the cooking time and the method have also been modified and adapted to the modern kitchen without compromising on the final taste and the flavour of the dishes. Though we still hold that sahaj pakey so meetha hoi (that which is cooked by the slow method is tastier), we have adapted most of the recipes to suit today’s kitchens.

Nawab Chowdhry Habib and his begum

To gather information and pictures for this book we have traversed the region of Awadh. We met the ‘purdahnashin’ (veiled) begums, talked with bawarchis and rakabdars (master cooks). We met housewives and discussed and exchanged recipes, shared many a meal with families and new friends. We talked to restaurateurs and chefs and people in the villages and small towns. We dined in the famed mango orchards of Awadh. Through it all, from the feasts and festivals, through the variety of exquisite food savoured, one fact clearly emerges: Awadh cuisine is very much a living force, always playing an integral role in the life of the people of this region. We sincerely hope that this attempt at the demystification of the culture and the cuisine of Awadh will be able to rekindle the romance of Shaam-e-Awadh.

Sangeeta Bhatnagar R.K. Saxena

Historical Perspective

lndia is that unique land where the past merges with the present, Gods walk among men, and truth coexists with myth. Nowhere is this more true than in the erstwhile kingdom of Awadh, now represented by the area in and around Lucknow, the capital of the state of Uttar Pradesh. It forms the centre of that vast plain which has been, for centuries, the peculiar site of Indian civilization. It stretches from the Ganga to the Himalayas, and is about equidistant from Delhi on one side and the extreme east of Bihar on the other.

This land of unsured fertility has always been a major centre of culture and learning. It was, to begin with, a part of the Kaushal kingdom ruled by the Suryavanshis of Ayodhya; thereafter it was coveted and conquered by many a ruler. But it found its zenith during the reign of the nawabs of Awadh, the first of them being Saadat Khan Bahadur. But it was Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah, the benevolent ruler and great builder who transformed Lucknow from a village to a town. He was the person behind the construction of the Imambara, Rumi Darwaza and the building which later came to be called the Residency. He was also a great connoisseur of cuisine and several cooks arrived under his patronage. Wajid Ali Shah, the last of the nawabs of Awadh, was also a great lover of the arts. The Qaiserbagh was constructed during his reign. It is said that his overindulgence in the epicurean delights cost him the throne.

Legend has it that the magnificence of the court of the nawabs of Awadh overshadowed the famed throne of Delhi, and it was the former that attracted adventurers and artists, courtesans and cooks, for ‘where wealth is, there will seekers after fortune flock’.

The annexation of Awadh by the British brought to an end the rule of the gracious nawabs. But long years of alien rule could not wipe away their legacy. The nawabs may have perished but their legacy of gracious living—the fine

buildings, arts and crafts, ‘tehzeeb-o-adab (etiquette), and, of course, their exquisite cuisine—lives on.

Nawab Sadat Khan Burhan-ul-Mulk (died: 1738)

Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah (died: 1798)

Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, deposed by the British in 1856

This book is an attempt to look behind the veil of mystique ensconcing Awadh, which has intrigued many. Food—and the partaking of it—is very central to any civilization, and during the reign of the nawabs, several bawarchikhanas (kitchens) flourished as a result of the high degree of culinary skills of the cooks who vied with each other to cook the most exquisite varieties of food in order to please their masters. The rakabdars served food in elaborate disguises at banquets to add an element of surprise for the guests. As many as one hundred dishes could be laid out on the dastarkhwan by these culinary experts. The reader may rise above the feeling of nostalgia and actually savour the dishes of the nawabi kitchens which have so painstakingly been preserved by the bawarchis and the families of Awadh. A journey through the courtyards and kitchens of these families has raised a curtain on a platter of aromatic dishes, which, through their aroma and times of a bygone era of gracious living, give a real feel of the past which no book of history can attempt to do.

King of Oudh entertains Europeans

An old picture of the Roomi Darwaza

Chattar Manzil with the king of Oudh's fish boat, 1858

Spices on sale

Culinary , Techniques and Equipment

What appears finally on the dastarkhwan is the result of a number of techniques of cooking, some of them unique to the Awadh region. The reader may be familiar with some of the culinary styles and equipment, but the ones which specifically lend this cuisine its distinctive characters are described below.

Culinary styles

Ghee durust karna

This is a vital step in cooking almost any Awadhi dish. It is essentially the tempering or seasoning of the cooking medium and flavouring it with kewra water and cardamoms. The method is as follows: Heat half a kilogram of ghee or oil to a smoking point, then reduce the heat and sprinkle one tablespoon (tbsp.) of kewra water. Add six green cardamoms and stir till the water evaporates and the ghee gives off a pleasant aroma. Remove from the fire, strain through a muslin cloth and keep for further use. Tempered ghee is used for all the recipes in this book except for baghar, dhungar and deep frying.

From top to bottom: Techniques of dhungar

Dhungar

This is a quick-smoke procedure used to flavour a meat dish, dals or even raita. The smoke very effectively permeates every grain of the ingredients and imparts a subtle aroma, enhancing the quality of the dish. The procedure may be carried out either at the intermediate or the final stage of cooking. This is a common technique employed while making kababs. The method is as follows. In a shallow utensil or a lagan in which the meat or mince has been marinated, a small bay is made in the centre and a katori or onion skin or even a betel leaf (depending on the dish) is placed. In it a piece of live coal is placed and hot ghee, sometimes mixed with aromatic herbs or spices, is poured over it and covered immediately with a lid to prevent the smoke from escaping. The lid is not removed till about fifteen minutes so as to allow the smoke to work on the ingredients inside. The coal is then removed from the utensil and the meat made to go through more rounds of cooking.

Dum dena

This is a method used frequently in Awadh cooking. ‘Dum’ literally means 'breath' and the process involves placing the semi-cooked ingredients in a pot or deg, sealing the utensil with flour dough and applying very slow charcoal fire from top by placing some live charcoal on the lid and some below. The Persian influence is most evident in this method though in Awadh it has acquired its own distinct character. The magic of ‘dum’ is the excellent aroma, flavour and texture which results from slow cooking. This method is followed for a number of

delicacies such as the Shab Deg, pulao and biryani. Any dish cooked by this method is ‘Dum Pukht’ or ‘Dum Bakht’.

Galavat

This refers to the use of softening agents such as papain (from raw papaya) or kalmi shora to tenderize meat.

Baghar

This is a method of tempering a dish with hot oil/ghee and spices. It may be done either at the beginning of the cooking as in curries, or at the end as in the case of pulses. In the former, the fat is heated in a vessel to a smoking point and after reducing the flame, spices are added to it. When they begin to crackle, the same process is carried out in a ladle which is immersed in the cooked dish and immediately covered with a lid, so that the essence and the aroma of the spices, drawn out by the hot ghee, are retained in the dish giving it their flavour.

Technique of Baghar

Gile hikmat

While talking of Persian influence on Awadh cuisine one cannot ignore this interesting method adopted for cooking. ‘Gil’ in Persian is earth or mud and ‘Hikmat’ implies the procedure of the Hakims. This method is generally followed to prepare ‘Kushtas’ which is the ash-like residue of substances which cannot be consumed in their natural form as they are toxic, for instance gems or metals. But when adopted for cooking purposes the method is as follows. The meat or vegetable to be cooked is generally taken whole and stuffed with nuts and spices. It is then wrapped in a banana leaf or cloth and covered completely with clay or ‘Multani Mitti’ (Fuller’s earth) so as to seal it. It is thereafter buried about 4–6 inches deep. A slow fire is then placed on top for 6–8 hours after which the food is dug out and is ready to be served!

A ‘paandaan’ (container) to store betel leaves

Loab

This is a term which refers to the final stage in cooking when the oil used during cooking rises to the surface, giving the dish a finished appearance. This occurs mostly when slow cooking of gravy dishes is involved.

Moin

It is the shortening of dough. In this process fat is rubbed into the flour and made into a dough for kachoris or pooris or parathas. This makes the final product crisp, flaky and crumbly.

Ittr (Perfumes)

The use of perfumes play an important role in Awadh cuisine. Perfumes are used to enhance the aroma of the dish and make it delicate. Most commonly these are made from musk deer, hunting of which is now banned worldwide.

Shop in Old Lucknow selling perfumes

Roasting of spices

Some spices are lightly roasted before grinding. Roasting helps enhance the aroma of the condiments. The infusion of aroma into the dish becomes easier, as on heating, oils are released which are responsible for imparting the extra scent.

Yakhni cuts (Mutton)

The cuts for Yakhni are generally bony pieces with flesh on them. These cuts are usually taken from the ts and the ribs of the animal. The basic purpose of meat in preparing Yakhni is to derive the juice and flavour and hence the shape of the meat does not count much.

Chandi warq

This is the process in which small pieces of silver are placed between two sheets of paper and then patted continuously with a hammer till it becomes papery thin. These are used in decorating the dishes before presentations, e.g. Chandi kaliya, Moti pulao.

Zamin doz

This is a style of cooking in which the dish is wrapped or sealed in a container and burned in the ground. Then burning charcoal is placed over it. The cooking process takes about six hours.

Utensils basic to the Awadh style of cooking

Bhagona

Also known as patili, it is generally of brass with a lid. It is used when a great deal of 'bhunna' or saute is required, or even for boiling and simmering. It is also used for preparing Yakhni or Salan, Korma or Kaliya.

Silver leaf being prepared in a shop

Deg/Degchi

It is a pear-shaped pot with a lid of either brass, copper or aluminium. The shape of this utensil is ideally suited for the ‘dum’ method and is used for cooking pulao, biryani, Nehari or Shab Deg.

Kadhai

It is a deep, concave utensil made of brass, iron or aluminium and is used for deep-frying pooris and the like.

Cooking utensils used in the kitchens of Awadh

Lagan

It is a round and shallow copper utensil with a slightly concave bottom used for cooking whole or big cuts of meat or poultry, especially when heat is applied from both the top and bottom.

Lohe ka tandoor

It is an iron tandoor as distinct from the clay tandoor more common in Delhi. It is a kind of dome-shaped iron oven used for making most breads such as the Sheermal, Taftan, Bakarkhani, etc.

Tinplating or ‘kalai’ in progress

Mahi tawa

It is the Awadh version of the griddle, shaped like a big, round, flat-bottomed tray with raised edges, used for cooking kababs. Also used for dishes where heat is applied from both ends, when covered.

Seeni

It is a big thali (round tray) normally used as a lid for the lagan or mahi tawa when heat is to be applied from the top. Live charcoal is placed on it and the heat is transmitted through it to the food. Thus the indirect heat has the desired effect of browning and cooking the ingredients.

All the copper and brass utensils are almost always used after ‘kalai’ or tinplating the insides.

The famous Tunde ke Kabab

Mutton

The verdant plains of north India abound in cattle population. Traditional farming also encomes rearing of other animals such as goats, sheep and pigs. Poultry farming is also common. In and around Lucknow, rearing goat and poultry for the table is most prevalent. Religion and tradition have led to the choice of lamb, chicken and fish as the favourite meats. But mutton is the fare that has stimulated the culinary genius of the cooks of Awadh in a way no other meat has. The ion for perfection and style has led the cooks, and even the butchers, to evolve specific preparations, for instance, the pasanda, chop, raan and so on. It is commonplace here to find customers at the butcher’s shop patiently waiting for the cuts of their choice. Frozen and pre-cut mutton is almost unthinkable in these parts. For the cook as well as the gourmet, the quality of meat is something that cannot be compromised on. The meat of the male goat is preferred as it is believed to have more flavour and marrow in the bones. The age of the animal is also considered while buying meat. If tender meat is required, as for ‘Haleem’, a younger animal is preferred, whereas when flavour gets precedence, a more mature goat is ordered. Thus the selection of meat is an art espoused by ion and not as mundane as buying beluga caviar or smoked salmon off a supermarket shelf. It would be pertinent here to acquaint the reader with the typical mutton cuts used in this region for its cuisine. Roughly following the order of dissection, the various cuts are as follows:

‘Chaap’

‘Seena’ (ribcage)

Shoulder blade

The neck portion of the lamb has non-fibrous meat and is therefore suited for cooking a korma, salan, pulao or biryani. The ribcage offers a variety of cuts. The ‘chops’ are cuts on the backbone and are part of the ribs. Usually a single rib is cut. However, if the goat is young, two ribs are combined. Because of the high bone marrow content and the tender meat which is least fibrous, this cut is used for delicate kormas, kaliyas, pulaos and biryani.

Another cut is the pasli ka panja which comprises four to five ribs of the floating end, that is, ribs on the breast side forming the cage, connected with tissues and very tender meat.

The flesh outside the ribcage is tender and has a lot of fat attached to it. The rawaz is used for cooking purposes and also incorporated in the dough for breads such as Sheermal.

When the fat is removed from the flesh the meat still remains streaky. Cut into small pieces, they are called parchas and are specially used for biryani and pulao.

If minced. it is called chikna kheema which is a high, quality-mild-flavoured mince used for delicate kabab preparation such as the Galavat Kabab.

The front legs or agli dast and the hind legs or the raan are the most versatile in of the cuts.

The trotter or the Paye are essentially the bones, which are used for making the Paya Shorba, a kind of soup which is a popular ingredient of the Nehari in the winter months and also prescribed by hakims for convalescing patients. These are also used for making jelly saffron and sweetened with sugar, chilled and served as a dessert.

The two central bones of each leg contain a good amount of marrow and are always cut into two halves. The cut obtained is called the nalli and is always in good demand. The meat surrounding the nalli boti consists of several bands of tendons covered with tissues. This elongated piece of flesh tapers down to a band which is connected to the bone ts.

This portion is called the kareli or machhli (fish) owing to its silvery and slippery appearance. The cut obtained by cutting across the grain of the muscles is called the kareli boti which is delicious when cooked in Nehari, korma or kaliya.

The upper leg portion of the hind leg is the raan. The raan can be cooked like the Western ‘roast’ and is called the ‘Raan Mussallam’. Besides, flat pieces can be obtained from the raan which are called pasanda used for the delectable Pasanda Kababs which can either be skewered or cooled in the lagan. The mince obtained from the raan or the rookha kheema is fat-free and used for making kababs such as Patili Kababs, Kakori Kababs and Shami Kababs.

The rump or the puth is basically a bony structure but contains the liver and kidneys, and a lot of fat called the charbi is attached to it and is used for cooking purposes. The fleshy portion is called the puth ka parda and is used whole on skewers for the Parda Kababs or for obtaining mince. The botis or cuts along the backbone are used in salans and Yakhni. The liver and kidneys are cooked separately as dry preparations and are quite delicious and nutritious.

‘Nalli’

‘Raan’

Portion of the raan used for the pasanda cut

Kundan Kaliya

Kaliya is a mutton preparation with gravy along with the compulsory inclusion of turmeric or saffron. It is a preparation partaken commonly and can be had at lunch or dinner or both. To create novelty in this popular dish some variations have been devised by the cooks of Awadh, for instance, Mahi Kaliya, Chandi Kaliya and the unbeatable Kundan Kaliya. The last one is a delicacy designed by the bawarchis and rakabdars to please their nawabs. The use of gold leaf in this dish lends a touch of luxury to it. The carefully carved mutton pieces wrapped in gold leaf and placed on a bed of rich gravy shimmering with gold amalgamated in it are a stimulant for jaded appetites.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg mutton 500 gm onions 50 gm ginger 30 gm garlic 250 gm curd 200 gm balai salt to taste 400 gm ghee 10 gold leaves

A pinch of saffron A pinch of yellow edible colour

MASALA A 5 gm cloves 5 gm green cardamom 2 gm mace ½ tsp. peppercorns 5 gm brown cardamom 5 gm cinnamon

MASALA B 10 gm coriander powder 10 gm turmeric powder 10 gm red chilli powder ½ tsp. lazzat-e-taam

Wash the mutton pieces and blanch in a pan with boiling water. Strain and keep the mutton aside. Slice onions finely and fry in ghee till golden brown. Drain the fat crush finely using two tbsp. curd. Grind ginger to a paste, and extract garlic juice. Grind masala A finely. Carve the mutton pieces into square or round pieces. Heat the ghee in a degchi, add the mutton, onion-curd mixture, ginger paste and garlic juice and fry for ten minutes. Then add masala B and stir for five minutes. Then add beaten curd one tbsp. at a time, stirring constantly so that

the curd is incorporated in the masala. Fry till the ghee separates. Add a cup of water and masala A. Cover and cook till the mutton is tender. When done, remove the pieces of mutton from the gravy and keep aside. Strain the gravy through a muslin cloth or a fine sieve. Add mashed and strained balai to the gravy. To the sauce add crushed saffron and the yellow colour. Then cook the mutton pieces in the sauce on a slow fire for five minutes. Serve hot in a shallow dish covering mutton with gold leaf. Mix the rest of the gold leaves in the gravy with a fork so that the gravy looks like emulsified gold! Kundan Kaliya or the Golden Kaliya, goes well with chapati or naan. Note: Some cooks prefer yellow chilli powder over red chilli powder in Masala B. The former is derived from yellow-coloured chillies grown in the Kasipur region.

Raan

The raan, prepared in the Awadhi style, lends grandeur to any formal dinner. The whole mutton leg, flavoured with saffron and cooked with rich nuts and freshly ground spices is a delectable dish.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg mutton 100 gm raw papaya 1 tbsp. roasted gram flour 300 gm pure ghee 2 leaves of silver foil 5 gm almonds Salt to taste

MASALA A 250 gm curd 5 gm red chilli powder 200 gm onion paste 20 gm ginger paste 20 gm garlic juice A pinch of saffron A pinch of yellow colour

MASALA B

200 gm cashew nuts 25 gm chironji 50 gm poppy seeds 10 gm desiccated coconut

MASALA C 3 gm green cardamoms 5 gm cardamoms 3 gm peppercorns 6 cloves 5 gm nutmeg 1 blade of mace

Wash and clean the mutton leg removing the membrane. Prick it well with a fork. Then apply crushed raw papaya and a teaspoon of salt on the raan. Rub it so that the papaya juice penetrates the meat. Marinate for two hours. Slice and fry the onions to a golden brown colour and grind to a paste. Prepare masala B by slightly roasting on a griddle the first three ingredients, and grinding to a paste, adding the desiccated coconut. Also, grind separately masala C.

In the curd mix the onion paste, ginger paste, garlic juice. chilli powder, a pinch of saffron, edible yellow colour, roasted gram flour and salt. Apply on the mutton leg, rubbing the marinade well so that it coats the leg evenly. Keep aside for two hours. Then cover with masalas B and C mixed. Place a lagan on slow coal fire. Pour ghee and place the mutton leg with all the marinade in it. Cover with a lid and place live coal on it and put on dum for fifteen minutes. Remove

the lid and turn the raan, cover and cook for fifteen minutes or till the meat is tender.

Remove from lagan and serve hot on a large platter garnished with silver leaf and finely chopped almonds. Goes well with sheermal. Note: This dish can be prepared in a moderately hot oven. In order to prevent the masala from becoming dry, it is necessary to sprinkle a little kewra water at least twice during the cooking period.

Rizala

Rizala is a mutton preparation in creamy white gravy. The juxtaposition of red meat with gravy was specially designed to break the monotony of dark hues on the dastarkhwan.

INGREDIENTS

1.5 kg mutton (1 kg kareli botis and ½ kg seene ka parcha) 300 gm white onions 20 gm ginger 20 gm garlic 12 green cardamoms 5 gm white pepper powder 20 gm desiccated coconut 50 gm cashew nuts 250 gm curd 150 gm khoya 150 gm cream 250 gm ghee 2 drops of kewra jal 2 drops of mitha ittr 2 silver leaves Salt to taste

Wash and clean mutton pieces. Blanch in a pan of boiling water, remove the

scum, drain and keep aside. Extract the juice of ginger and garlic and keep aside. Grind separately onions, cashew nut and coconut to a fine paste. In a heavybottomed pan place the mutton, pour enough water to cover, add salt and green cardamoms and bring to a boil, then simmer. When the meat is half-cooked, add the ground onions and the ginger-garlic juice. Cook until dry. Then add ghee and the beaten curd, fry till the meat is dry. Add the nut paste and coconut and fry for 2–3 minutes, taking care that the masala does not turn brown. Then add white pepper and one and half cups of water, or enough to cook the meat for a thick gravy. Simmer for a while. Remove from fire, add kewra jal, mitha ittr and mashed khoya. Blend well. Finally add the cream. Serve hot, garnished with silver leaf. Roomali roti is a good accompaniment for this dish.

Shahi Mutton Korma

The korma is an essential item on the dastarkhwan. It is basically a preparation of meat in gravy. The bawarchis of Awadh achieved great finesse in cooking this dish and designed several varieties of it, for instance, the Badam Korma, Murg Korma and Baizavi Korma. The art of preparing a smooth gravy with a rich texture was perfected by the cooks of the nawabs who likened it to the shine of pearls! The Shahi Korma is characterized by its rich gravy and a very appetizing aroma. Designed for the royal dastarkhwan, it is a very popular dish in this part of the country.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg (puth, mutton dast, seena) 7 medium-sized onions 25 almonds 2 tbsp. coriander 1½” piece ginger (ground to a paste) Kashmiri chillies to taste 2 tsp. black pepper 5 brown cardamoms 1 tsp. nutmeg ¼ tsp. mace

125 gm curd 4 cloves of garlic (ground to a paste) 25 cloves 25 green cardamoms 1 tsp. cinnamon 250 gm ghee A pinch of saffron 150 gm balai 100 ml milk Salt to taste 2 tsp. kewra jal 2 drops of mitha ittr

As for any korma, the mutton cuts are from the ‘puth’, ‘seena’ and ‘dast’—all on bone and cut into botis.

Wash and clean the mutton pieces.

Finely slice two onions. Grind five onions, garlic and ginger to a paste. Also grind ten cloves, brown cardamoms and black pepper and keep aside. Separately grind ten green cardamoms, nutmeg and mace. Blanch, peel and grind almonds and mash in balai. In the milk, mix the almond paste and strain through a fine muslin cloth to obtain a creamy mixture. Now place a deep vessel or patili on the fire. Pour the ghee, and when hot, add the sliced onions and fry to a golden

brown colour. Then add the mutton, onion, garlic and ginger paste, fifteen whole cloves, fifteen green cardamoms, cinnamon, coriander, curd, chilli powder and salt and saute on slow fire till the ghee separates. Then add three cups of water and cover and cook till the meat is more than half done. Remove from the fire and pick out the mutton pieces from the gravy with a slotted spoon. Strain the gravy through a muslin cloth and keep aside. Meanwhile, rinse the utensil and place it on the fire. Add the mutton pieces and the strained gravy and cook on a medium flame. When hot, reduce the flame and add the almond, cream and milk mixture stirring constantly. This is important so as to prevent curdling. Cover and simmer for ten minutes. Add the saffron crushed in kewra water and mitha ittr. Serve hot with sheermal or roomali roti.

Shami Kabab

A formal spread in any banquet of a nawab in Awadh was considered incomplete without the inclusion of the Shami Kabab, an important constituent of the ‘Tora’ (presentation of food). It would be no exaggeration to say that it was the ‘National’ kabab of Awadh. Made from mince meat, the kababs are round patties filled with spicy surprises and the tangy ‘kairi’ or raw green mango. So, ideally, the best time of the year to have these kababs is around the month of May when the fruit of the mango tree is in its infancy. In other seasons the kairi can be substituted with ‘kamrakh’ or ‘karonda’ both having a tart flavour reminiscent of the raw mango. If none of these are available, one can make do with the juice of lime squeezed into the mince paste. The texture of the kabab is extremely soft and simply melts in the mouth.

INGREDIENTS

FOR BOILING, MASALA A 500 gm minced meat of goat or lamb 125 gm Bengal gram ½’’ ginger 5 cloves of garlic 4 red chillies 4 black pepper 4 brown cardamoms

1 tsp. cinnamon

Salt to taste Approx. ½ litre water

MASALA B 1 tsp. garam masala ½ tsp. mace powder ½ tsp. green cardamom powder 1 tsp. kewra water 2 drops of mitha ittr

FOR THE FILLING, MASALA C 50 gm mint leaves 10 green chillies 1” ginger 3 medium-sized onions 125 gm kairi (raw mango) ¼ tsp. salt 250 gm ghee

Clean the minced meat and keep aside. Chop the ginger and extract the juice of the garlic. Now place a deep vessel or patili on fire and put in all the ingredients of masala A. Cover and cook till the grains of the pulse are done. Then uncover and keep stirring till the water evaporates and the contents of the patili start sticking to the sides. Remove from the fire and grind to a very fine paste. It is important that there should be no coarse grains in the paste. Then mix ingredients of masala B and blend well. Divide the mince paste into approximately sixteen portions and keep aside. For the filling, wash and finely chop the mint leaves, green chillies, and onions. Also peel and finely chop the raw mango, taking care to remove the seed. Carve out fine slivers of the ginger. Add salt and mix well, using your fingers. Now take each ball and stuff it with the mixture and gently shape into patties. Then grease a mahi tawa or griddle with about 50 gm of ghee and place the kababs in it. Then put on very slow flame. Melt the rest of the ghee and pour on the kababs evenly. When the sides of the kababs appear to be of a light brown colour, gently turn to a golden brown colour. Serve hot with fresh mint chutney and roomali roti or warqui paratha.

Haleem

One would be missing out on a vital aspect of the Awadh lifestyle if the khidmatgars (servants) of the rich are not mentioned. These were the people who were the permanent employees of a nawab or raja and lived on his premises as part of his household, often serving the same family for generations, Their loyalty was unflinching and they would go to great lengths to please their master. In a rich household there would be more than a score of khidmatgars, comprising of the aabdar* (servant-in charge of drinking water arrangements), bawarchi, rakabdar and so on. We were told about a certain nawab, whose son was extremely pampered. When his pranks went too far and he was to be punished, it was the servant’s son who received it, with all humility. Such was the pampering of the rich. Therefore, it is only expected to find the pampering of palates by the bawarchis who often created special dishes as odes to their masters. The luxurious lifestyle of the rich had no place for coarseness of any kind, be it language or manners or food. Some dishes were such that they could be partaken with enormous ease and pleasure. Haleem is one such dish cooked from wheat and mutton which is light and yet delicious.

INGREDIENTS

500 gm mutton (boneless) 200 gm broken wheat (daliya) 200 gm onions 15 gm poppy seeds 25 gm desiccated coconut

25 gm cashew nuts 25 gm curd 5 gm red chilli powder 1” ginger 5 cloves of garlic Salt to taste 100 gm ghee 5 cloves 5 gm green cardamom 1 piece of cinnamon 1 lime (medium size)

FOR GARNISH A few mint leaves A few green coriander leaves 25 gm fried cashew nuts

Cut the mutton into 1" cubes. Grind ginger and garlic to a fine paste. Mix with curd and salt. Add meat pieces and marinate for one hour. Slice onions and fry to a golden brown colour. Grind poppy seeds, coconut and cashew nuts to a fine paste. Boil daliya in one litre of water till tender. Mash it and keep aside.

In a heavy-bottomed pan, heat the ghee in which the onions were fried. Add cloves, cinnamon and cardamom. Stir for a few seconds. Add red chilli powder, ginger-garlic paste and mutton along with curd and onions. Mix, cover and cook gently till dry. Add cashew nuts and coconut paste. Fry the mutton till brown, and the fat separates. Add water sufficient to cook the meat. When done, take out half of the meat, and mash the remaining half in the pan with the boiled daliya added to it. Simmer for a few minutes. Then add the whole mutton pieces. Squeeze in the juice of one lime and stir. Serve hot, garnished with chopped mint, green coriander and fried cashew nuts. * The aabdar made the arrangements for drinking water which was an important task, as there were no taps in those days. Water was obtained from personal or community wells or ‘baolis’. Water was often served with rose petals or perfumed with rose, kewra, khus or sandalwood perfume. In the summer months, water was cooled in round earthenware pots (matka) or in the longnecked ‘surahi’. A part of the aabdar’s duty was also to organize water for washing hands before meals. This water was ed to the guests in a ‘Silabchi’ and ‘Aftaba’, the water jug and basin.

Tali Arvi ka Salan

The nawabs of Awadh believed in entertaining their guests with as many ‘khans’ or trays in a tora as was appropriate, with respect to the status of the guest. But there were certain dishes like the korma which were essential to the dastarkhwan. And if there was a korma, a salan was a must. It could be either ‘Taley Aloo ka Salan ‘or a ‘Tali Arvi ka Salan’ or sometimes both, the latter being preferred during the summer months or as per availability. ‘Arvi’ or colacassia roots cooked with mutton in a thin gravy are indeed quite delicious.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg mutton 500 gm colacassia roots 9 onions 2 tsp. garlic juice 25 gm ginger 1 tsp. red chilli powder 3 tsp. coriander powder 4 tsp. turmeric Salt to taste 10 cloves

1 tsp. cinnamon 10 green cardamoms 2 tsp. lazzat-e-taam 125 gm curd 750 gm ghee or mustard oil

Wash and clean the mutton and keep aside. Wash and peel the colacassia roots. While buying them, care should be taken to select those of a uniform size and they should not be too thick. Grind the ginger to a paste. Extract the juice of garlic and keep aside. Peel all the onions, grind six onions to a paste and finely slice the remaining three onions.

In a patili heat 250 gm of ghee and bring to a smoking temperature, then reduce the flame and sprinkle the garlic juice three times at short intervals. Fry the sliced onions on a medium flame, in the same oil, till golden brown. Then add the mutton, cloves, cardamom, cinnamon, turmeric powder, chilli powder, coriander powder, salt, ginger paste and curd and keep stirring till the masala is done and the oil separates. Add three cups of water and cover and cook on a slow flame till almost done. Remove from the fire and tilt the vessel, and with a spoon or ladle scoop out the oil floating on top. Now with a slotted spoon remove the mutton pieces from the gravy. Strain the gravy through a muslin cloth or a fine sieve. Keep aside. In 500 gm ghee, deep-fry the colacassia roots on a very slow fire, taking care not to touch them with any spoon or ladle. On the other hand, the patili or kadhai in which they are being fried should be tilted gently from side to side so that they are cooked evenly. After these turn to a light brown colour they can be turned around with a spoon and fried to a golden brown colour. Remove from the oil and keep aside.

Then put a patili on the flame, pour the strained mutton stock into it, add the mutton pieces and the colacassia roots gently, then add the lazzat-e-taam and the

oil which had been skimmed off the gravy. Cover and simmer for fifteen minutes. Serve hot with naan or roomali rott.

Tali Arvi ka Salan and Lucknowi Biryani

A kite shop in the old city of Lucknow

Nehari Khaas

The richness of Awadh cuisine is not only in of the ingredients used but also the variety in cuisine. If some dishes taste good owing to the rich flavour of pure ghee and cream, some are incomparable though they may be cooked in the humble mustard oil. Mustard oil is a common cooking medium in north India. It is extracted from the seeds of the mustard plant grown extensively in these parts and harvested in February and March. In Awadh, even the mustard oil, extracted from the best quality of mustard seeds, is heated in large cauldrons till it smokes. Then it is ed through muslin cloth to remove any impurities. This oil is then collected and sealed in large earthenware pots or urns and buried in the earth, preferably under the shade of a tree or a cool place. It is left to mature for nine to ten months, i.e. through the rainy season so that the oil is further cooled when the rain water seeps into the ground. Then it is dug up and is ready for use. The long period of underground storage transforms the oil to a granular texture which is used for cooking purposes. It has a mild flavour unlike the pungent unseasoned mustard oil, and is also less hot. Mustard oil is used in the cooking of curries and even dry vegetables. The Nehari is invariably cooked in mustard oil and is a hot favourite of all—the princes and paupers, the high and low, the rich and poor. The word ‘Nehari’ is derived from ‘Nehar’ or fasting and is a popular breakfast item with the Muslim populace. It is generally had after the first namaz of the day. Nehari originally is beef, braised and then stewed overnight, further prepared in the morning and eaten with kulchas. The recipe for the Nehari, interestingly, is also derived from a Hakimi Nuskha* and it is especially suited to the body constitution in the winter months as it keeps the body warm. For the plebian it is still common practice to start the day with Nehari–kulcha as it is a sumptuous meal and can sustain one till dusk. These days, many Muslim families use mutton instead of beef for Nehari but the street shops of Old Lucknow still serve Nehari prepared from beef. In the old city of Lucknow, strategically located opposite a mosque near Akbari Gate, is the famous eatery of Rahim, where the last five generations have been dishing out the best Nehari ever. Haji Zubair, presently in charge of the family business, gets the masala powder prepared in bulk under personal supervision, using the family secret of generations, in which, he claims, are incorporated twenty-three herbs and spices. Even now a soup plate full of Nehari and kulcha doesn't cost much.

The recipe for Nehari given here is from the house of Rahim adapted to mutton, in keeping with popular taste in this region.

The popular Nehari–kulcha shop of Haji Zubair

* Prescription of hakims or practitioners of Unani medicine

A mustard field

INGREDIENTS

1 kg mutton (preferably seena and kareli) 500 gm onion 20 gm garlic 20 gm ginger 1 tbsp. turmeric powder 1 tbsp. red chilli powder 2 tbsp. coriander powder 3 gm cinnamon 10 large cardamoms 15 peppercorns 10 gm cloves 5 gm mace 2 gm nutmeg ½ tsp. shahi jeera 1 medium-sized cup kewra jal Salt to taste

125 gm curd 100 gm roasted gram flour 400 gm mustard oil 1 tbsp. maida

FOR YAKHNI 12 paye (trotters) 200 gm onion 10 peppercorns Bay leaves ½ kg mutton 3 large cups of water

Wash and clean the mutton and keep aside. For the yakhni, peel and chop the onions. In a pressure cooker or a deep vessel put all the ingredients for the yakhni, and add three cups of water. Cover and cook for thirty minutes or till the meat is very tender.

Meanwhile, prepare the other spices as follows.

Peel and finely slice the onions. Grind the ginger to a paste. Extract the juice of garlic. Pound or dry-grind the spices from cinnamon to shahi jeera.

Then heat the mustard oil to a smoking point in a patili. Remove the patili from the fire and sprinkle the garlic juice in it. Be careful while doing so as the oil sputters. Put the vessel back on the flame and fry onions till golden and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon, crush finely and keep aside. Reduce the quantity of the oil to half, then add the mutton pieces, ginger paste, turmeric, coriander and chilli powder, curd, ground spices and salt. On a medium flame, keep stirring the ingredients till the meat is half done and the oil separates. Then add the crushed onions. Cover and keep aside.

Now prepare the yakhni by mashing the mutton and straining the stock which was prepared earlier.

In a separate vessel heat the remaining oil and add the roasted gram flour and maida till it turns a light brown colour. Slowly add the yakhni, stirring constantly. When the flour blends with the stock, add the half-cooked mutton, and stir for five minutes. Then cover and cook on a slow flame till the meat is tender. Add kewra jal and simmer for fifteen minutes. Serve hot with kulcha or khamiri roti.

Nargisi Kofta

A very interesting aspect of Awadh cuisine is the inspiration it draws from a myriad sources—seasons and celebrations, flora and fauna, personalities, poetry and colour. In Urdu poetry one finds frequent references to the ‘Narcissus-like eyes’ (Nargisi aankhen) of the beloved. And sure enough, the bawarchis of Awadh designed the Nargisi Kofta, extending the simile to the dastarkhwan! The choice of egg for this dish was most appropriate. The Nargisi Kofta is essentially a hard-boiled egg, wrapped in mince and deep-fried, when halved lengthwise it resembles the eye! Purists go to the length of selecting eggs which are more slim than round to get the perfect shape!

INGREDIENTS

500 gm kheema (mince meat) 8 eggs 30 gm ginger 30 gm garlic 125 gm roasted gram flour 15 gm red chillies 10 gm poppy seeds Salt to taste 500 gm curd 250 gm ghee 8 black cardamoms

6 cloves 10 peppercorns ½ tspn. cumin 2 tbsp. kewra jal 3 big onions

Hard-boil the eggs, peel and keep aside. Grind the ginger and garlic to a paste. Roast cumin, poppy seeds, cloves, cardamoms, peppercorns and three-fourth of the red chillies lightly on a griddle. Slice one onion finely, fry to a golden brown colour and grind to a paste with the curd. Grind the remaining onions and the masalas separately. Mix half of ginger-garlic paste and ground onions to the masalas to the kheema. Mix well, rubbing in the masalas and the roasted gram flour. Then divide the mince into eight equal portions placing one full boiled egg in one portion of the kheema and shape into kababs coating the egg evenly. Deep-fry the kabab in the ghee, drain and keep aside.

Next, heat the ghee, add the onion paste, ginger-garlic paste, ground red chillies and salt. Fry till the masala is cooked and then add kewra jal. Remove and place in a shallow dish. Halve the kababs lengthwise and place on the bed of masala and serve hot with roomali rotis.

Shab Deg

Over 200 years ago, in the early eighteenth century, Kashmiri families came from the mountains to the plains below to seek fame and fortune. Those were the days of the decline of the Mughal Empire, and it was not surprising that the glory of Awadh pulled them towards Lucknow. A number of Kashmiris settle in the capital of Awadh. They brought with them the scent of saffron, the cups of kahwa and their celestial cuisine. Truly, the cooking of ‘Shab Deg’ in winter, for the nawab in Awadh, became not only a celebration of winter, but a reminder of the bond with that land which is oft referred to as heaven on earth:

‘Agar firdaus bar ru-yi-zamin ast. Hamin ast, u hamin ast, u hamin ast.’

If on earth be an Eden of bliss, It is this, it is this, none but this.

Even to this day, the fondness for the Kashmiri cuisine has not waned. Ask any old native of Awadh Shab Deg and you will see his eyes brim with nostalgia. He laments the dying of the art of cooking this sublime dish. ‘Shab Deg’ is a beautiful blend of whole turnips, Kashmiri ver, mutton balls and spices cooked in a ‘deg’ through the night or ‘shab’. The treatment of turnips with saffron, the special Kashmiri vers brought all the way from Kashmir with the distinctive aroma of saffron and Kashmiri onions, and the koftas, cooked on the slow fire in a sealed deg till the break of dawn, lend this dish its distinguished status. The culinary skill of a cook in preparing this dish lies in the deftness with which all the koftas (mutton balls) and turnips are made to look like one another and that they are cooked to the perfect texture. Apart from the carefully crafted ingredients, pieces of mutton or game birds are also cooked in the gravy.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg mutton 500 gm mince meat 250 gm turnips 600 gm onion 50 gm garlic 50 gm ginger 3 gm green cardamoms 5 gm cumin powder 3 gm shahi jeera powder 15 gm red chilli powder 5 gm turmeric 1 Kashmiri ver 20 gm raw papaya 1 tsp. garam masala 500 gm curd 250 gm balai 50 gm almond paste 2 tbsp. lime juice 500 gm ghee 5 gm cloves

5 gm cinnamon 5 gm pepper 5 gm saffron 30 ml kewra jal Salt to taste

Roast the turnips in a tandoor till the skin can be easily removed. Peel and prick all over with a fork. Grind the garlic to a paste. Apply one part of this paste, turmeric, salt and half of the saffron dissolved in kewra jal on the turnips and keep aside for fifteen minutes. Then in the ghee fry the turnips to a golden brown colour. Remove and keep. In the same fat fry finely sliced onions till golden brown and crisp. Keep aside. Grind the ginger to a paste and divide in three parts. Grind clove and cinnamon to a paste. To prepare the yakhni, in a pan put half of the fried onions, the second part of garlic paste, one part of ginger paste, half of the clove, cardamom and cinnamon paste, half of the mutton pieces and enough water to cook the meat to a very soft texture so that it can be strained to obtain the yakhni. When the meat is done, mash the pulp and extract the bones, then strain through a sieve or a muslin cloth. Keep the yakhni aside. Then mix the minced meat, papaya paste, the other part of ginger, third part of garlic paste and the left-over clove, cinnamom and green cardamom paste and half tsp. garam masala powder. Keep aside for thirty minutes. Shape into balls or koftas approximately the size of the turnips. Deep-fry in the ghee and keep aside.

In the hot ghee add the remainder of the mutton pieces, fried onions, gingergarlic paste, cumin, shahi jeera powder, chilli powder and the garam masala and fry till the meat is brown. Add beaten curd, yakhni, beaten balai, almond paste, fried turnips, mutton koftas and lime juice. Stir gently. Add sufficient water for a thick gravy and to cook the meat. Crumble and stir the Kashmiri ver, seal the lid on the deg with a flour dough and put on dum by placing some live coal on the lid and some below the deg. Let it cook through the night. In the morning, when you open the deg the ghee would be floating on the top. Now, add the remainder of the saffron dissolved in kewra jal and serve hot with sheermal or bakarkhani

for breakfast.

Patili Kabab

Awadh is home to a vast variety of kababs. They differ in shape and size, the kind of meat used or the method of cooking involved. Contrary to the general notion that kababs are either barbecued or griddle-fried, in this region, even the patili or deep copper or brass vessel is used for making kababs. This particular kabab used to be prepared especially well by the begum of Kursi who maintained high standards of gastronomy. We were fortunate enough to partake of her hospitality and were plied with a variety of dishes which are now nearly extinct in this region. This kabab is served as one whole mass on the plate and not as several individual pieces. The cooking of mince on slow fire with ghee and spices infuses the meat with a subtle aroma, and the superbly soft texture of the kabab makes partaking of it a pleasurable experience!

INGREDIENTS

1 kg minced mutton 50 gm raw papaya 150 gm onions 20 gm ginger

MASALA A 100 gm desiccated coconut 50 gm poppy seeds

1 tsp. kababchini 2 blades of mace ½ piece nutmeg 10 small cardamoms 5 big cardamoms 10 cloves 25 gm chironji

200 gm roasted gram flour

MASALA B 1 tbsp. cumin 1 tbsp. coriander

250 gm ghee Salt to taste 150 gm curd 2 tbsp. kewra water 3 mitha ittr drops

The mince for this preparation must be ‘rookha’ or fat-free. Place the mince in a

piece of muslin cloth and wash under running water. Then tie up in the cloth and hang for fifteen minutes to drain the water. Meanwhile, crush the papaya, remove the mince from the cloth, place in a shallow dish and mix in well the papaya and salt. Keep aside for thirty minutes. Meanwhile, slice the onions finely and fry in the ghee till golden brown. Remove from the ghee and grind along with the curd. Grind the ginger into fine paste. On a griddle, roast lightly masala A and then grind to a paste. Separately roast the cumin and coriander lightly and grind to a powder. After the mince has been marinated with the papaya paste blend both masalas A and B and the roasted gram flour with mince and keep in a lagan or a shallow dish. Then in the centre of the mince place half a peeled onion and a live coal in it. Pour a tablespoonful of ghee on the coal and immediately cover the lagan to prevent the smoke from escaping. After applying dhungar, keep the lid on for fifteen minutes so that the process of infusion of the smoke is complete and the spices also blend well with the mince. Then put a patili on the flame and pour the ghee in which the onions were previously fried. Add the mince along with the masala, blend with the ghee and keep stirring on a slow flame for five minutes. Then cover and cook, stirring occasionally in order to prevent the contents from sticking to the bottom of the vessel. When the ghee starts to appear on the sides of the vessel and the mince mix appears like a cohesive mass, add the kewra water and the mitha ittr and blend gently. Cover and simmer for five minutes. Serve hot in a shallow dish with warqui paratha or sheermal.

Pasanda Kababs

The raan or mutton offers numerous possibilities for the dastarkhwan. The Pasanda Kabab is one such mouth-watering preparation. The pasanda is a twoinch-square boneless cut flattened out by beating with the blunt side of knife. It can either be skewered or cooked in a vessel. The latter method is more common in Lucknow.

INGREDIENTS

500 gm pasanda

MASALA A 30 gm raw papaya 20 gm ginger 20 gm garlic 5 gm green chillies

MASALA B 5 gm cumin 10 gm peppercorns

10 gm big cardamom 5 cloves 1” stick cinnamon 2 gm red chillies

MASALA C 2 tsp. poppy seeds 20 gm almonds 30 gm roasted gram flour 150 gm onions

MASALA D Nutmeg the size of a pea 1 blade of mace 5 green cardamoms

100 gm ghee 50 gm curd Salt to taste Some onion rings 2 tbsp. kewra jal

1 lime

The pasanda pieces are easily made to order by the butcher. Otherwise, buy two inches square pieces of the leg cut of mutton and beat them with the blunt side of the knife into flat pieces. Gently wash and drain well and keep aside. Grind the masala A and mix in the beaten curd with salt and apply on the mutton pieces making sure the masala is evenly spread on all the pieces. Marinate for about two hours. Meanwhile slightly roast masala B on a griddle and pound to a fine powder.

Also prepare masala C and B as follows.

Blanch the almonds and make a paste. Finely slice the onions and fry in the ghee till golden brown. Grind and keep aside. Lightly roast the poppy seeds and make a paste. Separately pound the nutmeg, mace and cardamons to a fine powder.

After marinating the pasandas, apply masala B. Then heat and grease a mahi tawa. Spread the mutton along with the second marinade in it. Cover with a lid and place live coal on it and cook till meat is half done. Then mix the poppy seeds and the almond paste with the onion paste, kewra jal and the roasted gram flour, nutmeg, mace and cardamom and spread on the mutton. Cover and cook again till all the moisture dries up and the mutton is cooked. Then uncover and pour the rest of the ghee and fry the meat till it is dry and becomes a golden brown colour. Sprinkle the masala D powder.

Serve hot on a platter, garnished with a border of onion rings, slit green chillies and quarters of lime. The sheermal is a good accompaniment for these kababs. Parathas also go well with them.

Note: Pasanda Kababs can alternatively be cooked on skewers on an open fire or in an oven. For this it is important that the mutton, while being marinated, should be hung in loosely tied muslin cloth so that most of the water drips off, and while skewering, the kababs should be tied on the skewers to prevent them from falling off while cooking.

Purdahnashin Kababs

The natural artistry inherent in the people of Awadh is obvious in the enormous range of the cuisine. Besides cooking for the best flavour or texture of the food, the bawarchis and the rakabdar also revelled in the art of camouflaging the dishes to introduce an element of surprise in the dastarkhwan. The elaborate disguises in which food was often served was the product of extravagant whim rather than bleak necessity. For instance, the Pardanashin Kababs, which are a beautiful variant of the common Galavat Kababs. These are, essentially, minced dumplings camouflaged with an egg coating. A ladle, four to five inches in diameter, is required for the preparation of this kabab.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg minced meat

MASALA A 50 gm raw papaya paste 25 gm ginger paste 25 gm garlic paste masala 2 tsp. red chilli powder

Salt to taste

2 medium-sized onions 50 gm curd 1 tbsp. roasted gram flour 1 tsp. lazzat-e-taam 1 tbsp. kewra jal 2 drops mitha ittr 3 eggs 200 gm ghee

MASALA B 5 cloves 5 green cardamoms 2 brown cardamoms 1 blade of mace 1 tsp. black pepper 1 tsp. allspice

The mince used for these kababs is of the streaky variety, i.e., with some fat in it. Wash the mince carefully in a sieve or muslin cloth with running water and strain well. Then apply masala A and rub well with the palm of the hands so that it permeates every grain of the mince. Keep aside for twenty minutes. Meanwhile, grind masala B and keep aside. Then finely slice the onions and fry till golden brown in the ghee and grind with the curd, which should be thick. When the mince has been marinated for twenty minutes, add masala B, the onion

paste, gram flour. lazzat- e-taam, kewra jal and mitha ittr. Mix well and place in a lagan and apply dhungar as described earlier. Divide into six portions and shape into round patties. Place a griddle on the fire and pour two tablespoons of ghee. put the minced patties in it and fry on both sides on a slow flame till they are cooked to a golden colour. Remove from the griddle. Then beat the eggs and add a pinch of salt. Place a ladle on the flame and pour a tablespoon of ghee and one sixth of beaten eggs. When half set, place one mince patti in it and allow the egg to rise up on the sides and coat the mince. When set, place a plate on the bowl of the ladle and turn it upside down and remove on a plate. Repeat for the remaining patties. Serve on platter, garnished with sprigs of coriander along with roomali roti or warqui paratha. Note: The ingredients for the Galavat Kabab are the same as listed here except that only egg whites are used. The method is the same till dhungar. It is same up to dhungar, then egg whites are incorporated in the mince and shaped into approximately thirty kababs or as desired. They are then placed in a greased mahi tawa or griddle and put on fire. The rest of the ghee is poured on the top and the sides. The kababs are turned to cook on both sides to a golden brown colour. They are served hot on a platter, garnished with onion rings and accompanied with warqui paratha.

A traditional brocade dress

Kakori Kabab

The seekh has long been considered the pièce de résistance in the Awadhi dastarkhwan. The beautifully executed kabab is what every Lucknowi is proud of. The Seekh Kabab, introduced in this region by the Mughals, was originally prepared from beef mince on skewers and cooked on charcoal fire. But later influences and innovations led to the use of lamb mince which was preferred for its soft texture. Besides, serving it on the dastarkhwan did not offend the sensibilities of the Hindu guests. The immense popularity of this kabab led to further refinements and improvements and one bawarchi from Kakori found much acclaim for his efforts in this direction. Kakori is a small hamlet on the outskirts of Lucknow, in the Lucknow–Malihabad mango belt. During the freedom struggle, it became well known for the famous ‘Kakori Case’ when a band of freedom fighters looted the train carrying the British treasury money at this obscure place. Around the same time, during British rule, it was also customary in this region for the rich rajas and nawabs to entertain senior British officers and extend the best hospitality to them. It was mango season then, a ‘mango dinner' was very much in order. (Dinner in a mango orchard was followed by a variety of chilled mangoes served in great style.) At one such party in Kakori, stung by the remark of a British officer regarding the coarse texture of Seekh Kabab, the host, the late nawab Syed Mohammad Haider Kazmi, summoned his rakabdars, hakims and attars the very next day and asked them to evolve a more refined variety of the Seekh Kabab. Ten days of incessant research and design efforts resulted in the now famous ‘Kakori Kababs’ which were as far as perfection could go. The mince for the kabab was to be obtained from no other part but the ‘Raan ki Machhli' (tendon of the leg of mutton) and rawaz or animal fat was replaced by khoya, black pepper by white pepper; and a brand new mix of powdered spices, which still remains a closely guarded secret, added to the perfect blend. And, of course, the nawab invited the same officer again and presented the new version of the Seekh Kabab and, needless to say, it met with great applause. Since then the Seekh Kababs of Kakori became famous through word of mouth and even today, though cooked elsewhere, they are known as ‘Kakori Kababs’.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg mincemeat (kheema) without fat 100 gm raw papaya paste Salt to taste

MASALA A 5 yellow chilli 5 gm white pepper 2 cloves, 2 blades of mace 1/8 tsp. nutmeg

MASALA B 4 black cardamoms 6 green cardamoms 10 gm coriander seeds Grind A and B into a fine powder

MASALA C 50 gm copra 10 gm poppy seed (khuskhus) 5 gm shahi jeera

200 gm khoya

100 gm onion (to be browned and crushed)

GRIND INTO FINE PASTE 1 pod garlic 10 gm ginger 200 gm roasted gram flour

100 gm pure ghee

Mouthwatering mangoes waiting to be plucked from the tree

Mince the meat till very smooth (mince without washing as it helps in binding). Add papaya paste, salt and powdered masalas (A and B). Place the mixture in a deep pan and keep a live coal in the centre. Put two tablespoons of ghee and cover quickly for dhungar. Keep for half an hour. Mix onions, khuskhus (poppy seeds) and masala C along with khoya and ginger-garlic paste. Keep for half an hour. Add roasted gram flour and blend well.

Heat skewers slightly and grease. Take a portion of mince mixture and spread on skewers with slightly wet hand into long roll around the skewers. Roast on kabab griller on live coal for a few minutes till they turn to a golden pink brown. Take out carefully from the rods with the help of cloth. Arrange on dish and serve, garnished with onion rings, slit green chillies and fresh coriander chutney.

A harvest of Dussehri mangoes

Note: Kakori Kababs are grilled on a specially designed barbecue on slow charcoal fire.

Poultry market

Poultry and Game Birds

At a Sunday bazaar in Nakhaas in Old Lucknow, if you see a boisterous crowd gathered at one place, you can be sure a cockfight is in progress. The primitive sport of bird fighting was one of the favourite pastimes of the people of Lucknow. Birds are raised with great care, with special attention given to their beaks which are kept in perfect condition. For, in a cockfight, the bird with a damaged beak can be a loser. To avoid any damage from pecking food from the ground they are even fed by hand! Besides cocks, quails and partridges, ‘lals’ were also raised for fighting.

But this interest in birds was not only confined to the arena; their possibilities for the dastarkhwan were even more exciting! The bawarchis let their imagination soar and produced the most delightfully delicious dishes from chicken and game birds. An old nawab recalls an occasion when a relative ceremoniously sent him a khaan (tray) covered with a sarposh (cover) with a note saying that he should immediately partake of the contents inside. After removing the cover the nawab was bewildered to find only one puffed up poori on his plate. Trying to take the joke in his stride, he broke the hot poori with his fingers. Lo and behold, a small bird (the lal) flew out of it! Such was the art of cooking the ‘Parind Poori’.

Though the cooking of quails and partridges and other game birds is rare these days owing to their restricted availability, chicken dishes are popular in this region and are greatly relished. As poultry is relatively more expensive than other meat in these parts, the common man cooks it on special occasions. But for the rich it is common to have chicken delicacies.

Murg Mussallam

The ‘Murg Mussalam’ (literally, whole chicken) is one such delicacy perfected by the cooks of Awadh. It is quite common to cook this dish on ceremonial occasions as it lends a certain majesty to the dastarkhwan. And in this region the competence of a cook is gauged by his ability to cook this dish. The preparation of Murg Mussallam requires a good command over the blending of spices and knowledge of heat control. Purists prefer country chicken to the broiler for the cooking of any chicken dish, because they consider the farm chicken no match to the robust rooster even though the cooking time and processing is longer in the latter case.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg whole chicken 25 gm raw papaya Salt to taste 4 medium-sized onions 4 cloves of garlic 2” piece ginger

MASALA A 5 gm cinnamon

8 cloves 5 gm black pepper 8 gm green cardamom 5 gm poppy seeds 50 gm desiccated coconut 20 gm chironji

MASALA B 20 gm cumin seeds 20 gm coriander seeds

5 gm chilli powder 250 gm curd A pinch of saffron A pinch of edible saffron colour 1 tbsp. kewra jal 250 gm ghee 4 eggs 30 gm almonds 2 silver leaves

Clean and wash the chicken, taking care to wash the insides well. Prick all over with a fork. Grind the raw papaya to a paste and apply it with salt on the chicken, rubbing it in well. Marinate for two hours. (If a broiler chicken is being used, there is no need to marinate in the papaya paste). Meanwhile, finely slice the onions and fry in ghee till golden brown. Remove and grind half the onions to a paste and keep aside. Also grind garlic and ginger to a paste. Then lightly roast ingredients of masalas A and B separately on a griddle and grind to a paste. For the stuffing, hard-boil four eggs, chop and keep aside. Blanch and peel the almonds and cut into fine slivers. Keep aside. Now, remove the papaya paste off the chicken completely. Dissolve the saffron colour in kewra jal and apply on the chicken, rubbing inside also. In a bowl, mix masalas A and B in the curd and blend well. Then add the coloured chicken to this mix, rub well and marinate for twenty-five minutes. Then mix half of the fried onions in chopped boiled eggs and stuff inside the body cavity of the chicken. Truss the chicken by bringing the wings and legs close to the body and tie with a thread. Put a lagan or patili on fire and pour the ghee which was used for frying the onions and the chicken along with the marinade. Simmer for thirty minutes or till the chicken is done and the ghee appears on the sides. When done, place on a platter and remove the thread. Place the silver leaves on the chicken and garnish with almond slivers. Serve hot with warqui paratha or sheermal.

‘Murg Mussallam’

Note: This dish can be prepared in a microwave or oven by baking at slow temperature in a casserole.

Murg Jahanara

We have spoken of the links the people in this land have with Kashmir and its cuisine. Occasionally, Kashmiri dishes or Kashmiri tea is prepared and had with great relish. But one ingredient which pervades all Awadh cuisine is the Kashmiri saffron. Transcending all geographical limits, this aromatic herb has been an integral part of the ‘khasa’ (the food prepared for the rich). In the days of yore, the travelling salesman or the kabuliwallah was the most efficient carrier of exotic herbs and spices. Traversing several miles of difficult terrain, he supplied, among other interesting things, saffron, which imparts a rich hue and aroma to any sweet or savoury delicacy. The saffron reaches its greatest glory when cooked with chicken, and one excellent example is Murg Jahanara, which is essentially a saffron-hued chicken leg kabab. The nomenclature is suggestive of its Mughal origin but there can be no doubt about its Awadhi flavour!

INGREDIENTS

4 chicken leg ts 125 gm ghee 25 gm green papaya 1 tsp. chilli powder Salt to taste 50 gm roasted gram flour 10 gm ginger

10 gm garlic 2 medium-sized onions 2 tsp. oil 5–10 pistachios

MASALA A 10–15 cashew nuts 20 gms chironji 50 gms desiccated coconut 5 gms poppy seeds

MASALA B 6 green cardamoms 2 blades of mace 1 tsp. lazzat-e-taam

125 gm curd 2 tsp. saffron

Wash and clean the chicken leg ts. Peel and grind the papaya to a paste. In one tablespoon of lukewarm water dissolve one teaspoon of saffron and mix with the papaya paste. Now lightly prick the chicken ts and rub the papaya-

saffron paste on them. Marinate for thirty minutes. Meanwhile, on a slow fire fry cashew nuts to a golden brown colour. Next fry the chironji. Lightly roast the poppy seeds and desiccated coconut on a griddle. Now grind all ingredients of masala A.

In the same ghee, fry one finely sliced onion, and grind to a paste. Also grind to a paste one raw onion. Keep aside. Grind ginger, cardamom and mace to a paste. Extract the juice of the garlic and keep aside. Beat the curd and mix masalas A and B alongwith ginger in it. Dissolve one teaspoon of saffron in warm water and mix in the marinade along with roasted gram flour and garlic juice. Also add two teaspoons of ghee and mix well. Add the chicken ts to the marinade and keep aside for fifteen minutes. Meanwhile, light some charcoal. Grease a lagan with two teaspoons of oil and place in it the chicken along with the marinade, taking care that the chicken pieces are coated evenly with it. Pour the remaining ghee on it and cover the lagan with a seeni. Place live charcoal on it and cook till the chicken is brown on top. Then remove the coal from top and place it below and cook till the chicken is tender and dry, but moist. Serve hot on a platter, garnished with silver foil and finely chopped pistachios. Accompanied with chapati, this is an irresistible dish. Note: It can also be cooked in an oven by placing on a baking tray and baking at moderate temperature, but it tastes better cooked on charcoal fire.

Gulnaar Kababs

The Gulnaar Kabab is a gourmet’s delight. The blending of tomatoes with spices and chicken, with a garnish of red rose petals is one of the most aesthetic dishes of the bawarchis of Awadh.

INGREDIENTS

1 whole chicken (approx 800 gm) 5 gm ginger 5 gm garlic 200 gm onions 100 gm tomatoes 5 gm lazzat-e-taam 80 gm almonds 10 gm poppy seeds

8 gm red chilli powder 8 green cardamoms 8 cloves

1 tsp. mace powder 250 ml milk 500 gm malai or cream 100 gm butter or ghee Salt to taste

FOR GARNISH 2 eggs 20 gm pistachios Two rose petals

t the chicken to obtain four pieces (two leg pieces and two breast pieces). Wash the ts and dry thoroughly. Slit/pat the flesh closely with a knife and flatten slightly by beating with the blunt edge of the knife.

Place in a shallow pan. Cover with milk, add the cardamoms, cloves and mace powder. Keep on slow fire. Grind the ginger and garlic to a fine paste and add to the simmering chicken. Cover and cook on slow flame till the chicken is tender and the milk evaporates. Meanwhile, lightly roast the poppy seeds on a griddle. Blanch and peel the almonds. Grind both to a fine paste and keep. Blanch and chop tomatoes and keep aside. Peel and finely slice the onions and fry in ghee till golden and crisp. Remove and crush to a fine powder. Hard-boil the eggs, peel and slice, or carve flowers out of them. In a frying pan, heat the ghee and lightly fry the almond and poppy seed paste to a light brown colour. Add the tomatoes and crushed onions. Add salt, red chilli powder and lazzat-e-taam and cook gently till the tomatoes blend well with the other ingredients. Add cream and the cooked chicken. Cover and simmer for five minutes. Carefully remove

on a platter and garnish with fine slivers of pistachios, eggs and rose petals. Serve hot with roomali roti or sheermal.

Murg-do-Pyaza

In Awadh, as in other parts of India, live chicken is bought, cut and then is generally bought live, cut and then prepared for cooking purposes. Though dressed broiler chicken is available in the bigger towns, purists still prefer the young country chicken. A rough guide in discerning the age of the bird is that the legs of old birds are more scaly and ‘horny’ and their combs and spurs are more well developed than those of the younger ones. Optionally, chicken should be cooked twenty-four hours after it has been dressed. In the good old days, poultry and game were hung in a high place. These days the freezer is effective in the treatment of meat. The cooks of Awadh have several ways with chicken. When in spring the onion crop is harvested, it is very much in order to cook the ‘dopyaza’ which literally means ‘twice onions’ implying the addition of onions twice to a dish. The ‘do-pyaza’ itself can be of several kinds such as ‘Gosht (mutton) do-Pyaza’, ‘Egg-do-Pyaza’ and ‘Paneer do-Pyaza’.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg chicken 400 gm onions 15 gm ginger 15 gm garlic 150 gm curd ½ tsp. pepper powder 1 tsp. red chilli powder

2 tsp. coriander powder 5 cloves 1” piece of cinnamon 6 green cardamoms 150 gm ghee ¼ tsp. nutmeg and mace powder Salt to taste

Clean and cut the chicken into eight pieces. Grind ginger and garlic to a paste. Mix with curd and salt. Marinate the chicken in this mixture for about one hour.

Finely slice the onions. Grind half of the onions and keep aside. Heat ghee in a heavy-bottomed pan. Fry sliced onions till golden brown and crisp. Remove and keep aside. In the remaining ghee add the cloves, cinnamon and cardamoms. Add ground onions and fry to light brown colour. Add red chilli powder, pepper and coriander powder. Stir. Add marinated chicken. Mix thoroughly and cover and cook gently till the moisture dries. Remove the lid and fry the chicken until fat appears on the sides and chicken is browned. When it sticks to the bottom of the vessel, sprinkle a little water and scrape the masala from the sides. Add three-fourths of the brown crushed onions. Add some water, sufficient for thick gravy. Cook until chicken is done. Add nutmeg and mace powder. Serve garnished with remaining brown onions.

It tastes best if had hot with roomali roti.

Murg Korma

The preoccupation of the cooks with the quality of meat to be cooked, coupled with the self-indulgence of the ‘Roessa’ (the rich class) led to several remarkable culinary feats, such as the preparation of kushtas which were the dream of those of a more colourful disposition. These high-potency dishes were to be consumed in small portions. The secret of their preparation was the rearing of the bird or the animal to be cooked. The birds being reared for the table were fed on a diet of kushtas prescribed by hakims. Nawab Agha of Sheeshmahal, tells us about one such prescription. According to him, a day-old chick is to be fed on pills made from the extract of pearls, rubies, ‘zahar mora’, baby snakes, almonds and saffron. This extract is in powder from. It is then made into small pills by adding butter and pure ghee. Fed on these pills for fifteen days, the bird is considered fit for cooking. According to the old-timers, no modern-day aphrodisiac can match the quality of the good old kushtas. Though such recipes are virtually extinct today they do merit academic interest. The more common Murg Korma seems more relevant in the present context. For the common man it is a dish to be served on special occasions.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg chicken 400 gm onions 15 gm ginger 15 gm garlic 5 gm green chillies

200 gm curd 10 gm poppy seeds 30 gm coconut 20 gm cashew nuts 6 cloves Salt to taste 1” piece of cinnamon 6 green cardamoms 1 tsp. red chilli powder 1/3 tsp. brown cardamom powder 150 gm ghee

FOR GARNISH 20 gm raisins 20 gm cashew nuts 150 gm khoya*

*optional

t the chicken. Wash and keep aside. Grind ginger and garlic to a fine paste along with green chillies and salt. Apply over chicken, keep for marination. Grind the coconut, poppy seeds and cashew nuts finely. Peel and grind onions.

Heat ghee in a heavy-bottomed pan. ‘Daag’ cloves, cinnamon and green cardamoms. Stir for few seconds. Add onion paste and let the moisture dry up. Add red chilli powder, and then marinated chicken. Cover and cook gently. When dry, add coconut, cashew nut and poppy seed paste. Fry until the fat separates, but do not let the paste turn too brown. Add beaten curd and a cup of water. Cover and cook gently until chicken is done and gravy is thick on ‘loab’. Add cardamom powder. Serve garnished with mashed khoya, raisins and fried chopped cashew nuts along with roomali roti. Note: Chicken can be made boneless into 1" pieces, if desired.

Lagan ka Teetar

In the Awadh of the past, one sport popular among the nawabs and the ‘Roessa’, was hunting. Apart from hunting deer, rabbit and the animals for meat, game birds were particularly sought after. In winter, when the various ponds were crowded with ducks, the dastarkhwans were not devoid of them either! The meat of quails and partridges was considered a delicacy. The old nawabs are still ionate about the black partridge which incidentally has been declared a protected species by the government. They recall shooting partridge especially after the wheat harvest when the scattered grains would lure the birds to the open fields. Besides, the ‘chidimar’ (bird hunter) would deliver those birds alive at their doorstep! Since the teetar (partridge) and the bater (quail) are small birds, they are cooked more often than chicken, for instance. The lagan is a very convenient utensil for cooking such birds, hence the name of the dish. Considering its immense popularity in the bygone days, the recipe can be used for cooking chicken or ‘Lagan ka Murg’ by doubling the quantity of ingredients.

INGREDIENTS

1 whole partridge 100 gm ghee 125 gm curd 50 gm onions 10 gm ginger 10 gm garlic

4 cloves

MASALA A 5 gm poppy seeds 10 gm desiccated coconut 15 gm chironji

10 gm almonds 10 gm pistachios 10 gm saffron

MASALA B 1 tsp. black pepper 1 brown cardamom 4 green cardamoms 1 stick cinnamon 1 blade of mace ¼ nutmeg

1 tbsp. kewra jal Salt to taste

1 litre water

Wash and clean the bird with running water. Then grind to a paste the garlic and cloves and mix in one litre of lukewarm water. Wash the partridge with the lukewarm water and keep aside. Grind ginger to a paste. Finely slice the onions and fry to a golden brown colour, remove and grind to a paste. Lightly roast the poppy seeds, chironji and coconut on a griddle. Blanch and peel the almonds. Grind ingredients to prepare masala A and masala B and keep aside. Cut fine slivers of pistachio nuts and keep aside for garnish. Now dissolve the saffron in kewra water and apply on the bird. Beat the curd and add the remaining dissolved saffron and masala A to it. Also add salt and mix. Marinate the bird in this blend for thirty minutes. Then add masala B and mix well. Light a charcoal fire and place a lagan on it. Add the ghee and place the bird along with the marinade in it. Cover with a lid and place some live charcoal on it. Cook till tender. Serve hot, garnished with pistachio nuts. Note: This can be cooked in an oven by putting in a casserole and baking in a moderately hot oven.

Fish

The court of the nawabs of Awadh were not only resplendent with musicians and dancers but also sportsmen, like wrestlers and swimmers, who performed feats for the noblemen. The authors were able to trace one of the last vestiges of that ancient tradition in Nawab Agha of Sheeshmahal. He is the grandson of Nawab Mir Fazle Ali Khan Bahadur who was honoured by the title of ‘Mir Machhli’ by Nawab Ghazi-ud-din Haider. He was known to perform wondrous feats such as swimming great lengths underwater, smoking the hookah in a sitting position on water, knotting up the body and remaining in water for several hours. Nawab Agha himself is a swimmer of great repute and was selected for the Olympic team though he could not participate in the games owing to a head injury. He could knot himself up in the ‘gathrie’ (a small bundle) position for nine hours, smoke a hookah while afloat, and was a fine water wrestler too. He also invented his peculiar style of the ‘gathia ‘float’, when he appears to sit on his haunches on water and can stay afloat. He is known in Lucknow as ‘Mainaz-e- Pairak’ (the ace swimmer). Even now, at the age of seventy, he can dive from the top of the Husainabad Clock Tower like his illustrious grandfather.

Apart from water sports, the water of the Gomti and several ponds in this region offer the best variety of freshwater fish like the rohu, sole, taingan, pata, moh and mahasher. The biggest fish market in Lucknow is in at Qaiserbagh where you can get the choicest variety of freshwater fish. The best time to consume the fish is between September and April. Though mutton is more popular among the people of Awadh, their ion for fish is also remarkable. The wide array of fish recipes requiring different techniques of cooking are ample proof of this. A saying thus goes, ‘Ask a fish what is its last wish and it will say—“to be eaten by an Awadhi”.’

Zameen Doz Machhli

Zamin Doz Machhli

An old recipe for cooking fish is the ‘Zamin Doz Machhli’ in which a whole fish is stuffed with spices, sealed in an earthenware case, buried in the ground and cooked by placing cow-dung-cake fire on the ground above. Though it takes 6–8 hours to cook, it is worth the wait! In the days of yore, special earthenware containers were made to order by the kumhars (potters) according to the size and shape of the fish to be cooked. The case would fit the fish like a glove and moisture would be absorbed by it. The final product would have an extraordinary earthy flavour. As such luxuries are rare these days we thought of substituting the fish-shaped case with the easily available roti dish or the flat curd dish.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg sole fish 100 gm gram flour 50 gm aniseed powder 25 gm caraway powder 250 gm curd 15 gm almonds 15 gm pistachios 25 gm desiccated coconut 20 gm chironji

20 gm poppy seeds 20 gm ginger 20 gm garlic 1 tbsp. chilli powder Salt to taste 2 blades of mace 4 brown cardamoms 5 cloves 1 tsp. black peppercorns A pinch of orange colour (edible) 1 lime 1 tbsp. refined oil

Skin and wash the whole fish and slit one side lengthwise. Squeeze the juice of one lime and apply with salt on the fish. Keep aside for fifteen minutes. Grind ginger and garlic to a paste. Blanch and peel the almonds, grind to a paste along with lightly roasted poppy seeds, chironji and desiccated coconut. Blanch, peel and finely chop the pistachios. Also grind to a paste the mace, cardamoms, cloves and peppercorns. In a teaspoon of water, dissolve the edible colour and apply evenly on the marinated fish. In a bowl mix all the above and remaining ingredients except the pistachios and stuff inside the fish. Next, grease a flat earthenware dish, the kind used to set curds in and place the fish along with the marinade in it. Cover with a lid or another such dish turned upside down and seal with wheat dough. Bury four inches below the ground. Cover and place a slow cow-dung-cake or charcoal fire on the ground directly above it and let it cook for

5–6 hours. Open and garnish with pistachios. Serve with roomali roti. Note: This dish can also be prepared in an oven by baking in a covered dish at the lowest temperature for approximately one hour.

Machhli ke Shami Kabab

The meal time in olden days was not only a time for repast but also for stories for those gathered around the dastarkhwan. Normally, the head of the family would regale everyone with anecdotes as spicy as the food. While the older ladies, in their syrupy, subtle persuasive ways, would needle the children into having a ‘little more than the paratha and kabab’. Endearments such as Jaan-eaziz’ and ‘sar-e-aziz’ were used to great effect into coaxing more food into the loved ones! Lessons in food appreciation were also imbibed on such occasions. While entertaining guests, ‘latife’ (jokes) and ‘kisse’ (stories) were narrated with great gusto to the guests. These tales still circulate around the dastarkhwan, revealing the intimate warmth of an age gone by. What has also survived through the years is the art of making kababs. Among the special kababs of Lucknow is the ‘Machhli ke Shami Kabab’ or fish kababs.

INGREDIENTS

½ kg fish 125 gm roasted gram flour 50 gm poppy seeds 1 tsp. red chilli powder 1½ tsp. garam masala powder 2 gm mace powder 2 limes

Salt to taste

FOR THE FILLING 50 gm mint leaves 2 onions 5 green chillies 25 gm ginger

Clean and wash the fish. Poach in salted water for 5 minutes, Next, debone and remove the skin off the flesh, mash and keep aside. Then grind the poppy seeds to a ‘paste and mix it with the mashed fish. Also add the roasted gram flour, red chilli powder, salt, garam masala and mace powder and mix well. Divide into 8 portions and keep aside. Wash and finely chop the mint leaves. green chillies, ginger, one onion, and mix well. In each portion of the fish fill in the ingredients, shape into small round patties and deep fry in ghee till golden brown. Serve hot garnished with onion rings and lemon wedges.

An arch with fish engravings

Kanta Gali Machhli

INGREDIENTS

1 kg fish 2 kg curd 1 kg onion 6 cloves garlic 1½ inch piece ginger 1½ tsp. red chilli powder 1 tsp. garam masala Salt to taste 250 gm ghee ½ litre water 125 gm mustard oil

Cut fish into halves. Place a mahi tawa on fire and pour mustard oil on it. When hot put the fish on it and fry both sides. Meanwhile, keep half a litre hot water ready. When the fish is fried on both sides, immerse it in hot water for five minutes and then in cold water. Next, remove the skin of the fish. Finely slice the onions and fry in the ghee to a golden brown. Add chopped ginger, garlic, red chilli powder and garam masala, curd and salt. Stuff some masala in the fish by slitting it lengthwise. Place a patili on the fire, make a bed of masala in it, place the fish on it, and top it with the remaining masala. Cover the patili and seal with

dough. Cook on a very slow fire for 6–7 hours. The bones of the fish by now would have been cooked. Serve hot with chapati.

Clockwise from left: Rice; Kanta Gali Machhli; Dum Machhli; Khatti Machhli

Khatti Machhli

‘Bawarchis’ and ‘Nanbyes’ supplied a variety of food to the ‘dyodhi’ (literally, threshold or door) of their patrons. The food came in khana (trays) covered with ‘Sarposh’ draped on a dome-shaped mesh, which was secured with a tape and sealed with lac. This was done in order to prevent any tampering of the food. As time went by, the patron nawabs perished, and these cooks and their descendants were forced to open small shops to earn a living. One such eatery is that of Haji Sakhawat near the Lucknow Gymkhana Club. Hardly a place where one can sit and enjoy a meal, it is patronized by food lovers who get their favourite dish packed, to be savoured in more congenial surroundings. Sakhawat’s eatery offers a number of mouth-watering dishes such as the Shami Kabab, Mutton Korma, Khade Masale ki Biryani, Tamatar Goli and Khatti Machhli, to name just a few. The ‘Khatti Machhli’ or sour fish is a famous fish preparation of Awadh. The liberal use of curds lends it an enjoyable tanginess. The most favourite fish for this preparation is the rohu. The abdomen cut of a big fish is preferred as that portion has fewer bones.

INGREDIENTS

1½ kg fish 250 gm onions 350 gm curds 15 gm ginger 15 gm garlic 1½ tsp. red chilli powder

2 tbsp coriander ½ tsp. turmeric powder Salt to taste 5 gm cinnamon 1 blade of mace 2 brown cardamoms 1 tbsp. black peppercorns 10 cloves 10 green cardamoms 50 gm green coriander sprigs 250 gm mustard oil or ghee

Cut the fish into 2" pieces, removing the head and tail. Wash and clean the fish. Apply the turmeric powder and half a tsp. of salt. Grind the onions, ginger and garlic to a paste. Chop the coriander leaves finely. Grind the cinnamon, mace, five cloves, five cardamoms, brown cardamoms and peppercorns (garam masala). Put a patili on the fire and pour the oil/ghee in it. When hot, add five cloves and five green cardamoms, onions, ginger-garlic paste, coriander, chilli powder and salt and fry till the ghee separates. Then gradually add the fish stirring carefully for five minutes. Next, add the beaten curds and the garam masala. Cover and cook on slow flame for fifteen to twenty minutes till the fish is done and the ghee floats on top. Serve hot, garnished with coriander leaves.

Dum Machhli

INGREDIENTS

1 kg sole fish 125 gm roasted gram flour 50 gm poppy seeds 2 onions 1 tbsp. red chilli powder

MASALA A 50 gm garlic 50 gm ginger (ground to paste)

MASALA B 1 tbsp. cumin 2 brown cardamoms 5 gm mace 5 gm nutmeg 1 tsp. peppercorns

8 cloves

200 gm ghee 250 gm curd 2 drops of mitha ittr 1 tbsp. kewra jal

Clean and wash the fish and cut into finger-size pieces. Lightly roast the poppy seeds and grind. Also grind masalas A and B separately. Finely slice and fry the onions in the ghee. Now, in the curds, mix masalas A and B, red chilli powder, mitha ittr, roasted gram flour, poppy seeds, kewra jal and fish and keep aside. Light a charcoal fire and place a greased lagan or mahi tawa on it. Heat ghee. Then place the fish with all the masalas and onion in it and cover with a lid. Place some live charcoal on the lid also and allow to cook till the fish is evenly browned and the masala is dry but moist. Serve with chapatis or parathas.

The process of ‘dum’

Note: This dish can be prepared in a casserole dish placed in a low-heated oven.

A vegatable shop

Vegetarian Fare

The Gangetic plain, which cradled the erstwhile kingdom of Awadh, has been a great melting pot of diverse religions and cultures. In Awadh, the Hindus and the Muslims have coexisted amicably for years, and so has their cuisine. While the Muslims favour a meat-based diet, the Hindus have been predominantly vegetarians. Though these days, owing to centuries of intermingling of cultures, we may find vegetarian Muslims and non-vegetarian Hindus!

The vegetarian fare of this region is a gourmet’s delight. The vernal hues of nature and its bounties have inspired the culinary genius of the cooks of this region into creating remarkable recipes for the vegetarian palate. Just like the ragas in Indian classical music, the food is also prepared and partaken in its appropriate season and time. And so every season is associated with its typical tastes and flavours. Sultry summers are cooled with ‘Aam ka Panna’ (raw-mango drink), sherbets, gourds and kulfi; whereas in winter the appetite is perked up with Nimona (a green pea and lentil dumpling preparation), gobhi mussallam and hot kheer.

The fertile plains yield a variety of crops and vegetables. Whether home-grown or bought from the local sabzi mandi (vegetable market), the accent is always on the freshness of the vegetables. Apart from vegetables, milk and milk products are a vital component of the vegetarian diet. Owing to a long tradition of cattle rearing, milk has been a common source of nutrition. Milk products such as balai, khoya, butter, ghee and curds are put to good use in Awadhi cuisine. Lentils or pulses are also an important source of proteins for the vegetarian and almost always feature on the daily vegetarian menu. Rice and wheat breads such as the roti, paratha, puri, kachori are the common accompaniments alongwith relishes such as pickles, chutneys and 'murabbas' (preserves).

Karele ka Dulma

Karela or bitter gourd is a popular vegetable in the summer months. Though it has a bitter taste, this vegetable is prepared so deftly by the bawarchis that it becomes a delicacy. The hakims and vaids recommend this vegetable for people who are diabetic. Some bawarchis prepare the whole karela in such a manner that when brought on the dastarkhwan it looks bright green and uncooked but a bite into it dispels any such notions!

INGREDIENTS

6 bitter gourds (karela) 3 onions 6 cloves garlic 2 tsp. coriander powder 1 tsp. turmeric powder 1 ½ tsp. aniseed ¼ tsp. black onion seeds 1 tsp. chironji 5 cashew nuts ½ tsp. mango powder (khatai) 4 tsp. salt

150 gm ghee or oil

Wash the gourds, lightly scrape the skin with a knife, cut off the top and keep aside. Gently scrape out the flesh and seeds with a knife with a narrow blade. In half a litre of water, dissolve three tsp. of salt and soak the gourds in it for ten minutes. Meanwhile, grate the onions, extract juice of the garlic and keep aside. Lightly roast the aniseed and black onion seeds on a griddle and pound. Also lightly roast the chironji and cashew nuts and grind to a paste. Now, in a griddle heat a tablespoon of ghee/oil to a smoking point. Reduce the flame and sprinkle the garlic juice. Then add the grated onions and saute for five minutes. Next add all the dry masalas including mango and turmeric powder, nut paste and salt and saute on a slow flame for five minutes. Remove and keep. Remove the karelas from brine, and squeeze out water. Invert and keep in a sieve or dry in the sun for fifteen minutes. Then fill each gourd with the masala paste, put the cut top end on the gourd and secure it with a needle and thread. Heat ghee or oil in a kadhai or frying pan to a smoking point. Reduce the flame and carefully place all the gourds in it and cover and cook on a slow flame. Cover and cook till all sides are evenly done. Remove with a slotted spoon, draining away excess oil. Serve hot or at room temperature with chapatis. Remove the thread before serving.

Karele ka Dulma

Note: This dish can also be cooked in an oven with a slight variation. After stuffing the gourds, they can be placed in a greased casserole dish and 200 gm of beaten curd and a tablespoon of fried onion paste poured over them. They are then to be covered and cooked in a moderately hot oven for twenty minutes or till the gourds are done.

Tamatar ka Dulma

The Tamatar ka Dulma or stuffed tomatoes are very delicious. It is a favourite in winter. when the vegetable market is a riot of colours with mounds of tomatoes, green peas, cauliflowers, cabbages and carrots. A variety of stuffings are used for this dish including mince meat, cauliflower florets, nuts and so on. The cottage cheese or paneer–and–peas combination is a real hit with both the vegetarians and non-vegetarians.

Mouthwatering baked tomatoes

INGREDIENTS

8 (medium-size) tomatoes 125 gm green peas (shelled) 200 gm paneer 2 green chillies 50 gm green coriander ¼ tsp. chilli powder 1 tsp. cumin powder Salt to taste ½ cup cream 25 gm ghee

While buying tomatoes, be sure to pick firm and ripe ones of a uniform size. Wash the tomatoes and slice off the top. Then scoop out the pulp carefully without damaging the skin. The juice and pulp can be used in curries. Finely chop the coriander and green chillies. Grate the paneer and boil shelled green peas in salted water. Heat a tablespoon of ghee in a pan and put the chopped chillies, grated cheese, boiled peas, chilli powder, cumin powder and salt, and saute for 2–3 minutes till the ingredients blend well. Remove from the fire and empty in a bowl. Slowly add the cream and coriander to the cheese mixture. Make eight equal portions of this filling and stuff each tomato with it. Now put

the sliced top back and secure with a toothpick. Grease a mahi tawa or lagan, place the tomatoes in it and pour hot ghee on them. Cover with a lid and place a few live coals on it. Apply low heat from below with a slow charcoal fire. Cook for 15–20 minutes or till the tomatoes are done. Serve hot, garnished with the remaining green coriander. Note: Can be baked or grilled in an oven on slow to moderate temperatures.

Dum Bhindi

The okra or ladies finger known as ‘bhindi’ in this region is another popular green vegetable and is cooked along with capsicum and tomatoes by the ‘dum’ method.

INGREDIENTS

½ kg bhindi 150 gm capsicum 250 gm tomatoes 2 large onions ¼ tsp. chilli powder ¼ tsp. turmeric powder 150 gm refined oil or mustard oil Salt to taste

Select okras of a uniform medium size. Wash and dry well. Cut off the top and tail and keep aside. Coarsely chop the onions, capsicum and tomatoes. Now, in a kadhai, heat the oil and deep-fry the okras, a handful at a time till they are partly cooked, drain them and keep aside. Reduce the quantity of oil in the kadhai to half. Saute chopped onions till they turn to a golden pink colour. Then add the tomatoes and capsicum and saute for five minutes. Add the fried okras, salt,

chilli powder and turmeric powder, and blend well. Put the lid on the kadhai, seal with wheat dough and place some live charcoal on top. Put the kadhai on a very slow flame or slow charcoal fire and cook for fifteen minutes. When done, turn out in a serving dish and serve hot with chapatis.

Kathal ke Kabab and Dum Bhindi

Gobhi Mussallam

The cauliflower is an extremely popular and versatile vegetable. It can be cooked whole or cut, dry or in gravy, or can be eaten in pickle form. The gobhi mussallam or ‘whole cauliflower’ is a dish most appropriate for a formal menu on special occasions.

INGREDIENTS

1 medium-sized cauliflower 1 large onion 1” piece ginger 1 tbsp. poppy seeds 5 cashew nuts ¼ tsp. turmeric powder ¼ tsp. chilli powder Salt to taste 1 blade of mace 1 stick of cinnamon 5 green cardamoms 5 cloves

150 gm curd 100 gm ghee 250 gm shelled green peas ¼ tsp. cumin seeds

Wash the whole cauliflower, cut off the main stalk and remove the leaves. Finely slice the onion, fry to a golden brown colour and grind to a paste using some of the curd. Separately grind the ginger, mace, cinnamon, cardamom and cloves. Lightly roast the poppy seeds and cashew nuts on a griddle and grind to a paste. Parboil cauliflower in half a litre of salted water. Remove. Now in a kadhai, heat the ghee in which the onions were fried and place the cauliflower upside down first so that it turns light brown. Turn and cook the stem portion for five minutes. Remove and place in the curd. Mix all the ground ingredients, chilli and turmeric powder and salt and pour over the cauliflower. In a lagan, place the cauliflower along with the marinade. Pour ghee on the top and sides, saving one tbsp. for the peas. Cover and place slow charcoal fire on the lid and also below the lagan. Cook till the masala is dry but moist and the cauliflower is done. Meanwhile, in the kadhai heat a tbsp. of ghee and add the cumin seeds. When they begin to crackle, add the shelled peas, a pinch of salt and cook till tender. When the cauliflower is done, serve on a bed of peas. Note: The cauliflower can be cooked in a moderately hot oven instead of the lagan.

Paneer Pasanda

‘Paneer’ or cottage cheese is an important part of the vegetarian diet. Rich in proteins and easily digestible, this milk product invariably figures in formal vegetarian meals. Its versatility ranges for both sweet and savoury dishes. The Paneer Pasanda seems to be a vegetarian rendition of the popular ‘Pasanda’ dish by the master cooks of this region.

INGREDIENTS

400 gm paneer 150 gm curd

MASALA A 50 gm poppy seeds 25 gm chironji 25 gm desiccated coconut 8 cashew nuts

MASALA B 6 green cardamoms

4 cloves 2 blades of mace

½ tsp. white pepper powder Salt to taste A pinch of saffron 1 tbsp. rose water 50 gm ghee or oil

Slice ½ cm thick layers of the cottage paneer, then cut into triangular pieces (each side measuring roughly 3 cm). Deep-fry the chironji and cashew nuts in ghee to a light brown colour. Remove and keep. Use the greasy pan or kadhai to roast the poppy seeds. Then grind to a paste all ingredients alongwith desiccated coconut using some of the curd to prepare masala A. Also grind to a paste ingredients of masala B. Beat curd in a bowl and add masalas A and B, white pepper powder and salt. Dissolve the saffron in a tablespoon of rose water, add to the curd and fold in the paneer triangles. Place in a greased lagan. Pour the remaining ghee on top, cover and put on dum for twenty minutes. Alternatively, cover and cook in a casserole dish at a moderate temperature in an oven. Sprinkle rose water. Serve hot with naan or bakarkhani. If desired, serve with a cream topping.

‘Food, poetry, lifestyle and language have no religion.’

Muzaffar Ali in his article, ‘The fragrance of a golden time’ March, 1993

Subz Aloo

Indian vegetarian cuisine is not only delicious but cooked in harmony with the seasons. Seasonal vegetables and greens, which constitute a substantial part of diet, tempered and spiced with the most complimentary ingredients, condition the body to the environment. The ‘Subz Aloo’ (literally ‘green potatoes’) is a preparation of small new whole potatoes, cooked by the dum method in a mint gravy and is absolutely lip-smacking.

INGREDIENTS

½ kg baby potatoes 200 gm mint leaves 2 bay leaves

MASALA A 2 tsp. coriander powder ½ tsp. red chilli powder ¼ tsp. turmeric powder

MASALA B ½” piece dry ginger 6 cloves 1 brown cardamom ½ tsp. allspice ¼ tsp. cumin

1 tsp. dry mango powder 150 gm refined oil

1 tbsp. pure ghee Salt to taste

Select small and uniform-sized potatoes for this dish. Wash and peel the potatoes and prick all over with a fork. Apply a tsp. of salt on them and keep aside. New potatoes of small size peel well when rubbed together against coarse cloth surface, since the skin is very tender. Wash and grind mint leaves to a fine paste with very little water. Lightly roast on a griddle all ingredients of masala B, grind to a fine powder and through a sieve and keep aside. Now heat the oil and fry the potatoes on low flame till they are cooked to a golden brown colour. Remove with a slotted spoon and keep aside. Now reduce the quantity of oil to one-third, add bay leaves, potatoes, masalas A and B, salt, two tbsp. of water and saute till the masala is done and oil separates. Now add the mint paste, dry mango powder and a tablespoon of pure ghee and put on dum for fifteen minutes. Serve hot with kachoris.

Nimona

The cuisine of any region is incomplete unless the contribution of the housewife or home cooking is mentioned. It is the same with Awadh. Besides the contribution of the bawarchis and halwais there are recipes handed down through generations by grannies which lend that ‘special something’ to the food. Regional cuisine lives in the home kitchens, and ‘Nimona’ is one such example of strictly home fare. Cooked in winters with fresh green peas, spring onions and mungoris or ‘wadis’ which are spiced, dehydrated lentil dumplings, it is a delectable dish. Some people like to substitute green peas with green chickpeas which are available in spring and are equally tasty.

INGREDIENTS

½ kg shelled green peas 150 gm mungoris 200 gm spring onions 1 pinch asafoetida 1” piece ginger 6 cloves of garlic 2 bay leaves 2 tsp. coriander powder ½ tsp. red chilli powder

½ tsp. turmeric 1 tsp. cumin 5 cloves 5 green cardamoms 1 stick of cinnamon 50 gm green coriander Salt to taste 3 tbsp. tomato puree 100 ml mustard oil or refined oil 1 tbsp. pure ghee

Divide the shelled peas in two halves finely grind one half and coarsely grind the other. Grind to paste the ginger, garlic and cumin. Also grind the cloves, cinnamon and cardamoms and keep aside. Finely slice the onions, fry to a golden colour and grind to a paste. In the same oil, fry the mungoris on a very slow flame till crisp and golden brown. Remove and keep aside. In a separate kadhai heat a tablespoon of pure ghee and add crushed asafoetida. When it gives off an aroma add all the ground peas and saute till the moisture evaporates and the paste starts sticking to the kadhai. Remove and keep. Now heat the oil in which the mungoris were fried and add the bay leaves, ginger-garlic paste, coriander, turmeric, chilli powder and salt and saute till the masala is done. Then add the onion paste and tomato puree and stir till the ghee separates. Now add the crushed peas, mungoris, half litre of water and the garam masala paste. Cover and cook on a slow flame till mungoris are tender and the oil appears on the sides. Serve hot, garnished with finely chopped coriander leaves, with plain boiled rice or chapatis.

Nimona and Dal Kachori

Lazeez Lauki

The bottle gourd or ‘lauki’ is a popular vegetable of the summer season. It has cooling properties owing to its high water content. Often recommended by the vaids and hakims for heatstroke and other related ailments, it has been transformed by the people of this region into a delicacy. The Lazeez Lauki or literally ‘delicious gourd’ is prepared whole, stuffed with khoya and nuts in a lightly spiced gravy.

INGREDIENTS

500 gm bottle gourd (lauki) 250 gm khoya 200 gm curd 25 gm poppy seeds 25 gm chironji 8 cashew nuts 2 medium-sized onions ¼ tsp. chilli powder 5 green cardamoms 5 cloves 1 blade of mace

1 tsp. of kewra water A pinch of saffron 100 gm ghee/oil Salt to taste A few sprigs of green coriander

Wash and peel the gourd, and if too long, cut into two halves. Remove the pith with a knife with a thin and long blade. Prick the outside uniformly with a fork. Apply a teaspoon of salt all over and keep aside for fifteen minutes. Meanwhile, fry the finely sliced onions to a golden brown and grind to a paste. Fry the cashew nuts and chironji separately in the same ghee to a pink colour and remove. Coarsely chop the cashew nuts and keep in a separate kadhai. Crumble the khoya and keep stirring till it turns to a pinkish hue. Mix the fried nuts in it and keep aside. Grind the cloves, cardamoms and mace to a paste. Lightly roast the poppy seeds on a griddle and grind to a paste using some of the curd. Pat the gourd dry and fry in the ghee previously used. Evenly brown all over. Drain ghee and remove. Now, in the khoya, add one fourth of a teaspoon of salt and two tablespoon of curd, blend well and stuff inside the gourd. In the curd, mix the onion paste, poppy seed paste, garam masala paste and the saffron dissolved in kewra water. Also add the chilli powder and salt and blend well. Grease a lagan, place the gourd, spread the curd mixture and the remainder of the ghee on it. Then cover with lid and place live charcoal fire on it. Also apply low heat from below. Cook for thirty minutes or till the gourd is done. Serve hot on a platter, garnished with sprigs of coriander. Carve round slices while serving. Tastes delicious with chapati or warqui paratha.

Lazeez Lauki

Kathal ke Kabab

The romance of late spring and early summer for a gourmet in Awadh is never complete without raw mango and raw jackfruit preparations which are very popular in the region. The flesh of the jackfruit or ‘kathal’ is fibrous and so the cooks designed the ‘Kathal ke Kabab’ as a vegetarian dish parallel to the Shami Kabab prepared from the fibrous portion of the mutton. The deft blending of spices with the vegetable lends these kababs a fantastic flavour.

INGREDIENTS

125 gm raw mango 2 limes ½ kg raw jackfruit 100 gm Bengal gram 1” piece ginger 6 cloves of garlic 2 (medium-sized) onions 2 brown cardamoms 8 cloves 1 stick of cinnamon 1 blade of mace

¼ nutmeg 1 tsp. black pepper corns ¼ tsp. red chilli powder Salt to taste 25 gm mint leaves 2 green chillies 250 ml ghee/oil

Before handling jackfruit rub a few drops of mustard oil on your hands and the knife to prevent the latex from sticking. Peel the stem with a sharp knife, remove the bone-like pith and cut into big cubes. Wash well and boil in two-and-half cups of water in a deep vessel or pressure cooker with washed Bengal gram. Coarsely chop the ginger, garlic and onions. Also throw in brown cardamom, four peppercorns, red chilli powder and half a tsp. of salt. Cover and cook till Bengal gram is soft. Uncover and cook till all the water evaporates. Turn out in a plate and cool. Remove the seeds of the jackfruit and grind to a paste. Also grind to a paste cloves, mace, nutmeg and cinnamon. Finely chop the raw mango (after peeling and removing the seeds) green chillies, onions and mint leaves for the filling. In the vegetable paste mix the masala paste and rub well. Also add salt to taste. If raw mango is not available, squeeze juice of one lime in the paste. Divide into eight balls. Mix all the ingredients for filling. Grease your palm and flatten one ball on it. Fill it with about three-fourth of a tsp. of the filling and shape into patties. When all the kababs have been shaped, keep in a cool place to make them slightly firm. Heat the ghee or oil in a pan and deep-fry both sides to a golden brown colour and crisp texture. Drain the ghee and remove with a slotted spoon on a kitchen paper. Serve hot with roomali roti, garnished with onion rings and lemon wedges.

An Awadhi kitchen

Grocery items on sale

Pulses

The Awadh diet is based on meats, vegetables, cereals and legumes. Pulses or ‘dals’ are commonly consumed and are relatively cheap and rich in proteins. A dal is a vital component of the poor man’s diet. Even the dastarkhwans of the rich, full of meat and sweets, extended to accommodate a wide array of dals, which were prepared with great ion. With their Midas touch, the rakabdars transformed the humblest of dals to the esoteric.

Legend has it that a certain rakabdar of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah specialized in cooking dals. He would use one ‘asharfi’ (gold coin) for every ‘Baghar’. This practice intrigued the treasurer who suspected some foul play. Hoping to catch the cook red-handed, he appeared in the kitchen one day to enquire about the fate of the gold coins. On being questioned, the cook politely told him that there was no need for such suspicion and pointed towards a shelf where all the coins were neatly stacked. But when the amazed officer tried to pick up a coin, it turned to dust in his hands!

A water jug used by the nawabs

Gone are the nawabs and the asharfis but the people of this region are still enthusiastic about the various dals. They are particularly ionate about the arhar ki dal or pigeon-pea, which incidentally is a legume which takes the longest time (about nine months) to mature in the field.

Sultani Dal

The ‘Sultani Dal’ is a rich variation of arhar, concocted by a very famous rakabdar of Lucknow, Pir Ali. This dal is fit to be served as part of the dastarkhwans of the kings.

INGREDIENTS

250 gm arhar dal 500 ml milk 125 gm cream or balai 250 gm curd 8 cloves of garlic 1 tbsp. cumin 1 tsp. saffron ¾ tsp. chilli powder Salt to taste 25 gm pure ghee 2 green chillies 1 betel leaf

1 piece of live charcoal 10 cardamoms A few sprigs of mint leaves 6 cloves

Pick, wash and soak the dal for ten minutes. Strain the milk, cream and curd through a muslin cloth and keep in a cool place. Grind the cloves and cardamoms to a paste. Finely chop the green chillies and mint leaves. Cut fine slivers of garlic for baghar.

In a ‘patili’ or a saucepan boil the dal with salt, chilli powder and approximately 4–5 cups of water. (The quantity of water should be such that there is no surplus of it after the dal is done). Cover and cook on slow flame till the grains are done. Drain off surplus water. Next, mash the dal thoroughly with a heavy ladle to a smooth consistency. Place a betel leaf on the dal and put a small piece of live charcoal on it. Pour one teaspoon of pure ghee and immediately cover and keep for ten minutes for dhungar.* Add the strained cream mixture and the clovecardamom paste and saffron dissolved in a tablespoon of hot milk, and blend well. Then cover and simmer on a very slow flame for five minutes or to desired consistency. For the ‘baghar’, heat the remaining ghee in a small metal bowl or a ladle, add the cumin seeds and chopped garlic. As it turns to a pink colour, immerse in the utensil containing the dal and cover immediately. Stir lightly and serve hot, garnished with the chopped green chillies and mint leaves. Note: For non-vegetarians, the dal can be enriched with mutton stock. In that case milk can be deleted from the cream mixture.

* Remove the charcoal and betel leaf.

Dal Masoor Mussallam

The most commonly cooked pulse worldwide is the lentil or the masoor dal which also has the distinction of having been included in man’s diet down the ages. Like the urad dal, it is prepared with or without the skin, but whole (for mussallam), not split. Both the preparations are delicious. Here we shall discuss the latter which is popular in these parts.

INGREDIENTS

½ kg whole lentils 8 cloves of garlic 1 large onion 2 tsp. coriander powder 2 tsp. red chilli powder 1 tsp. turmeric powder Salt to taste

MASALA A 6 cloves 6 cardamoms

1 stick of cinnamon 1 tsp. black pepper corns

2” piece ginger 200 gm curd (sieved) ½ tsp. cumin 50 gm pure ghee

Pick, wash and soak the lentils in lukewarm water for 15–20 minutes. Grind the garlic to a paste. Extract the juice of ginger and keep aside. Grind all ingredients of masala A to a fine paste.

Heat the ghee (saving one tsp. for the baghar) in a patili and fry finely cut onions to a golden brown colour. Drain the water from the dal and add to the onions along with the garlic paste, coriander, chilli and turmeric powder, and saute for 5–6 minutes. Add salt, one litre of water, and cover and cook on a medium flame till the dal is done. Adjust the quantity of water so as to obtain a thick consistency. Then add the sieved curd, ginger extract, garam masala paste and blend well, stirring with a heavy ladle. Cover and simmer on a slow flame for ten minutes. Then heat a tsp. of ghee and add the cumin seeds. When they begin to crackle immerse in dal to apply ‘baghar’. Serve hot with plain boiled rice or naan.

‘And finally food became the most important way of expressing hospitality. Elaborate baawarchikhanas (kitchens) produced equally elaborate cuisines. The dastarkhwans diligently lent a distinctive culinary style. The cooking became an art. It is necessary to explain certain in relationship to food to understand

its impact… Khush rang (visually appealing). Khush zayaqa (delicious). Khush raihya (aromatic, fragrant) and Khush saliqa (well-presented).’

Muzzafar Ali in his article, ‘The fragrance of a golden time’ March 1993

Maash ki Dal Khasgi

The Maash Dal (urad dal) or the black beans were a relatively late addition to the dastarkhwan of Lucknow. But when they were introduced in this region, around the late nineteenth century, the preparations that the housewives dished out were myriad. Mostly considered home fare, this dal is prepared whole with the skin or without it, the latter being called the dhuli (washed) maash ki dal. The word ‘Khasgi’ is suggestive of the rich ingredients such as cream used to give it a special flavour, to be served as a part of the ‘Khasa’.

INGREDIENTS

½ kg washed urad dal ½ litre milk 250 gm curd 125 gm cream or balai 2 (medium-sized) onions 2 tsp. coriander powder ½ tsp. chilli powder 1” piece ginger

MASALA A

1 tsp. black peppercorns 1 stick of cinnamon 5 cloves 5 cardamoms

2–3 sprigs of mint leaves 25 gm pure ghee 1 tsp. saffron 2 green chillies Salt to taste

Pick, wash and soak the dal for fifteen minutes. Finely slice the onions. Grind the ingredients under masala A to a fine paste. Finely chop the ginger, green chillies and mint leaves. Heat the ghee and fry the sliced onions till crisp and golden. Remove and keep aside for the garnish. In the same ghee add the dal, chilli and coriander powder and saute for five minutes. Then add milk, cream, salt, masala A and approx. two cups of water, or sufficient to cook the dal. The dal should be covered and cooked in a patili or deep vessel, on a slow flame till it is done. The quantity of water can be increased if the grains are not cooked properly. When the dal is done there should be no surplus moisture and each grain should appear separate. Remove from the flame. Sieve the curd through muslin and pour evenly on the cooked dal. Put the vessel on a slow flame and tilt it gently from side to side so as to blend the curd with the dal. Do not stir with a spoon. Now dissolve the saffron in a tbsp. of hot milk and sprinkle on the dal. Again blend by rotating the utensil but not stirring. Cover and simmer for five minutes and then serve hot, garnished with the chopped ginger, chillies, mint leaves, topped with the crisp fried onions. Tastes delicious if served along with vegetables and chapatis or aabi naan.

Rice

‘My country is rich in cinnamon, ginger, pepper, cloves and the most wonderful gift of nature—rice. That which I ask of you in exchange is gold, silver, corals …’ —Mughal Emperor Jahangir

North Indians pride themselves in growing the world’s finest variety of scented rice known as Pilaf Rice or Basmati Rice. In the region of Awadh, the cooking of rice attained superlative heights of fineness, both in of variety and method of preparation, often considered a symbol of prosperity in these parts. No festive occasion or celebration goes without a rice preparation. Also, no other region of India can boast of more varieties of pulaos (fried rice) than Awadh, where they occupied the pride of place on the dastarkhwan. Many varieties were known to have been cooked in the old days. Biryani, which is appreciated more in Delhi and Hyderabad, is considered to be a poor cousin of the exalted Yakhni Pulao. The former was considered an affront on the sensibilities of the nawabs owing to the method of cooking, colour and form, which were considered rather crude. The Yakhni Pulao, on the other hand, is a beautiful, aesthetic blend of rich mutton stock, aromatic spices, balai and rice. The delicate flavour and aroma of this pulao is a treat to the senses.

Yakhni Pulao

INGREDIENTS

500 gm mutton chops 1 kg (seene ki boti, puth, neck and nalli boti) yakhni cuts of mutton 1 kg (one-year-old) basmati rice 2 tsp. garlic water 300 gm onions 250 gm ghee 30 gm garlic 5 brown cardamoms 15 cloves 30 gm ginger 5 green cardamoms 2, 1” sticks of cinnamon 150 gm fresh curd Salt to taste 1 tsp. chilli powder pepper to taste

300 gm wholewheat flour ½ tsp. kewra jal

The base for making Yakhni Pulao is the yakhni (rich meat stock) in which the rice is cooked. Take 1 kg yakhni cuts of mutton and wash. Heat the ghee and add some garlic water to it. When the water has evaporated, add some sliced onions and fry till golden brown. Remove the onions and keep aside. Divide the same ghee into three parts. In two-third of the ghee add one stick of cinnamon, three brown cardamoms, yakhni cuts of meat, five cloves, some ginger-garlic paste and salt to taste. Cover and cook for some time in the meat juices. Continue to turn over till the meat pieces are light brown in colour. Then add enough water so as to cover the meat by about one-and-half inches. Pressure-cook for about forty-five minutes initially at high flame and then on very slow fire. Remove the fire and allow to cool. Strain the yakhni through a muslin cloth. Remove the meat pieces. These are overcooked and therefore the flesh comes apart very easily. Remove flesh and bone marrow. Mash and strain through a sieve into the yakhni to enrich it. To make sure that there are no bone pieces and the yakhni is smooth, strain once again. Take chops, remove bone splinters and loose cartilages, clean and keep aside. In a degchi in one-third of the ghee, add chops, two brown cardamoms, one-inch stick of cinnamon and salt to taste. Saute for five minutes and cover. Reduce the heat to the minimum and cook. Turn over the pieces in between to ensure even cooking. Cook till done. Remove chops and keep aside. To the yakhni add beaten curd, red chilli powder, kewra jal, pepper to taste, and strain through a muslin cloth. Remove excess fat floating on the surface. Check the seasoning. Parboil 1 kg of rice in water with two tablespoons of fat that has been removed from the yakhni. Add to the rice cloves and green cardamoms for flavour. Strain the rice through a colander when three-fourths done (parboiled). When fully drained, arrange alternate layers of the rice and chops. Pour in yakhni mixture. Cover fully with lid and seal with flour dough for ‘dum’ by placing slow fire beneath, and burning coals on the lid. Remove from the fire after thirty minutes. Open the lid just before serving. Toss or stir gently once or twice and serve hot. It can be had by itself or with a korma. Note: 1. The surplus yakhni fat can be used for enriching other meat preparations.

2. The inclusion of mutton chops in the pulao is optional. In fact, purists insist that this pulao be prepared only in the yakhni and no other addition is necessary. 3. The Yakhni Pulao can also be cooked on a gas stove and then put in a casserole in an oven for the ‘dum’ procedure.

Kofta Pulao

The cooking of rice is indeed an art. Like brewing a perfect cup of tea, it requires a certain amount of finesse to cook it to perfection. But in the deft hands of the culinary maestros of Awadh it was just another medium of expression. Heights of fancy and tedious processes helped to create remarkable varieties in pulaos. Haji Mohammad Farooq, a master chef with a leading hotel in Delhi, recalls how his father, Haji Mohammad Fakre-Alam prepared the ‘Moti Pulao’. The ‘Moti’ or pearls for this dish were prepared from a mixture of egg yolks and silver leaf stuffed into the oesophagus of a chicken, tied at small intervals and cooked. The pulao was served garnished with the ‘string of pearls’, as it were. The string was snipped gently just before setting the pulao on the dastarkhwan so that the ‘pearls’ would scatter all over the rice. Such was the element of drama which made Awadh cuisine so exciting! The Kofta Pulao, as the name suggests, is a pulao with mutton mince balls cooked with it. For a formal dinner it is a popular rice preparation.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg pulao rice 500 gm mutton mince 25 gm ginger 25 gm garlic 1 tsp. red chilli powder 20 gm roasted gram flour

Two 2” sticks of cinnamon 4 green cardamoms Salt to taste 375 gm ghee or refined oil 250 gm onions 2 tbsp. gulabjal (rose water) 1 pinch of saffron 250 ml milk

Wash the mutton mince as described earlier. The mince should be very fine and not lumpy. Grind the cinnamon and cardamom to a paste. Grind ginger and garlic to a paste. Also grind 2–3 onions. Finely slice the remaining onions and fry to a golden brown colour in 125 gm of ghee, remove and keep aside for the garnish.

Next, blend well in the mince, half of the cardamom-cinnamon powder, roasted gram flour, a pinch of salt and two tsp. of ghee. Make 70–80 small balls, the size of marbles, from the mince mix and deep-fry in the ghee to a golden brown colour. Remove and keep aside. Heat the ghee in which the onion has been fried. Add the garlic-ginger paste, chilli powder and salt and fry till the ghee separates. Then add the fried mutton balls and 250 gm water and cook till all the water evaporates. Keep aside. To cook the rice, heat two litres of water in a degchi and bring to boil. Then add the cleaned and washed rice, salt, the remainder of garam masala powder and parboil the rice. Strain and keep aside. Now in the degchi (in which the rice was parboiled) line the bottom and the sides with the rice. Place the cooked koftas on the bed of rice and top with more. Dissolve the saffron in the rose water. Sprinkle this and milk on the rice. Seal the degchi and put on ‘dum’ for thirty minutes. Open and serve on a rice plate, garnished with fried onions and accompanied with a raita or korma.

Kofta Pulao

Note: The dum procedure can be carried out in an oven by placing the rice and koftas in a casserole, sealed with a foil.

Mutanjan

Hospitality has been both a tradition and a trait of the people of Awadh. Guests were accorded great honour and respect. Honed language, gestures such as offering a bolster (seating arrangement was generally on the floor), or hookah and paan, all went out to make the guest feel welcome and comfortable. Formal meals would entail weeks of planning and preparation. The host would personally supervise the cooking and accord individual attention to each guest on the dastarkhwan. A formal meal would quite often have Mutanjan on the menu. A biryani-like but sweet preparation, it was a favourite of the old nawabs. Not many cooks these days can prepare this dish.

INGREDIENTS

1kg basmati rice 1 kg mutton 1 kg sugar 250 gm ghee 4 lemons

MASALA A 5 black peppercorns 1” piece cinnamon

2 bay leaves 2 brown and 5 green cardamoms 5 cloves of garlic 1” piece ginger ¼ piece nutmeg 1 blade of mace

MASALA B 1” piece ginger 10 cloves of garlic

MASALA C 2 bay leaves 2 brown and 4 green cardamoms 1” piece of cinnamon 4 cloves

1 tbsp. saffron 2 tbsp. kewra jal 2 tbsp. rose water 2 tbsp. curd

Salt to taste 1 onion

Pick, wash and soak rice for one hour. Wash and clean the mutton. Finely slice the onion. Grind the ginger and garlic to a paste. Now heat ghee in a patili and fry the onion to a golden pink colour. Then add all the spices mentioned under A, whole. Next add the mutton pieces, curds, ginger-garlic paste and salt, and fry till the ghee separates and the mutton turns to a golden brown colour. Add three cups of water or enough to cook the mutton. When the mutton is tender open and cook further till all the water evaporates. Remove the mutton pieces (discarding the whole spices) and keep aside.

In a separate saucepan put the sugar and two cups of water and heat, stirring constantly till the sugar dissolves and the ‘Kimam’ (sugar syrup) is of a thin consistency. Now squeeze the juice of all the lemons in the liquid. Add one tbsp. kewra jal and 1 tbsp. rose water, cover and remove from the fire. For the rice tie all the spices mentioned under C, whole, in a muslin cloth bag and add to a degchi and parboil the rice. Then drain all the water. Now add the cooked mutton to the parboiled rice and pour in the sugar syrup, stirring gently to mix the ingredients. Sprinkle the saffron dissolved in the kewra jal, and the rose water. Cover and put on ‘dum’ for thirty minutes.

Serve hot on a rice plate.

Mutanjan

Lucknowi Biryani

Though the formal menu of Awadh did not have any place for the Biryani as mentioned earlier, it was and still is popular for informal meals. The method of cooking the Biryani is the ‘Dum Pukht’ method which imparts a typical Awadh flavour to this rice preparation. Biryani literally means fried or ‘bhuna’, and in this preparation, the rice is lightly fried before being cooked in the mutton stock. Hence the name, differentiating it from the pulao where the rice is parboiled.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg mutton ½ kg basmati rice 50 gm onions 25 gm ginger 25 gm garlic 1 tsp. chilli powder 125 gm curd 50 gm balai 5 green cardamoms 5 cloves 2 blades of mace

50 gm almond 10 gm cinnamon Salt to taste 1 tsp. saffron 2–3 drops of mitha ittr 200 gm ghee 1 tsp. kewra water

The appropriate cuts of mutton for the Biryani are those from the legs, neck and chops. Wash and clean the mutton. Finely slice the onions. Extract juice of ginger and garlic and keep aside. Grind the cardamoms, cloves, mace and cinnamon and keep aside. Pick, wash and soak the rice for one hour. In a deep vessel fry the onions in ghee to a golden brown colour. Remove and keep. Remove half the ghee and keep aside. In the remaining ghee add the almonds, mutton pieces, garlic-ginger extract, chilli powder, salt, ground masala and curd, and saute till the mutton turns to a golden brown colour. Add four cups of water and cook on a slow flame till tender. Remove from fire and strain the mutton stock through a sieve. Now on a greased griddle place the mutton pieces. Cook on a slow flame and brown till dry, and slightly crisp, on both the sides by turning once. Remove and keep aside. To the mutton stock add balai strained through a muslin cloth. Keep aside. Heat the remaining ghee, add the drained rice and saute on a medium flame for 7–8 minutes till the rice grains are no longer lumpy. Now line a degchi with half the rice and then place a layer of mutton on it and top with the remaining rice. Now dissolve the saffron in a tsp. of kewra water and sprinkle on the rice, also adding mitha ittr. Pour the mutton stock on it, seal the lid with atta dough and put on ‘dum’ for thirty minutes. Open and serve hot with the fried onions. Goes well with a raita or even korma gravy.

Tali Arvi ka Salan and Lucknowi Biryani

Note: It can be cooked in a microwave or an oven by placing the partly cooked ingredients in a casserole and cooking at a low temperature.

Zarda

Spring is the season of rejuvenation, exultation and festivity. In India its celebration in the various regions has its own joyous flavour. In north India, more specifically in Awadh, ‘Basant’ as it known, has a tradition of being celebrated with music and dance and of course going along with the festivities. The wide expanse of the yellow mustard fields are a treat for the eyes. In the days of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, who was a connoisseur of the fine arts, celebrations were done in style. A long procession of ‘Bajras’ (barges) were taken out on the river Gomti. Dressed in yellow, to match the spring palette (colour of nature), men and women danced to the tune of raga Basant and raga Hindola. The river would be transformed to a rich yellow hue, more aptly labelled as ‘Basanti’. The ‘Zarda’ is a celebration of spring though its popularity transcends the seasons. Even cooked during marriages or auspicious occasions, this sweet rice preparation is like a spring song!

Painting of a royal cruise on the Gomti river on the occasion of Basant (the spring festival)

INGREDIENTS

FOR SYRUP 1½ kg sugar 1 lime 100 ml milk 4 litre water

FOR RICE 750 gm basmati rice 10 cloves 2 pieces cinnamon 15 small green cardamoms 1 pinch alum ½ tsp. saffron colour

TO MIX

150 gm desi ghee 200 gm khoya 1 gm saffron 4 tbsp. kewra jal

FOR GARNISH 50 gm almonds 25 gm pistachio nuts A few silver foils

To prepare syrup, put the sugar, water and lime juice in a pan. Bring to boil, add a little milk at a time and remove scum. Boil until the syrup is of one string consistency. Strain through muslin and keep aside.

For rice, put about 3 litres of water in a pan, add all the ingredients except rice under the heading ‘For Rice’. Boil for about ten minutes to extract flavour of the spices. Then strain the flavoured water through a sieve to remove the whole spices. Pour this water in a deep vessel or bhagona and place it back on the fire. Add washed and drained rice in it. Parboil it on slow fire. Drain through a colander.

Boil sugar syrup in a heavy-bottomed pan. Add rice and ‘josh’ (boil) for a minute. Remove the pan from the fire, cover and seal with flour dough and put on ‘dum’ for about half a hour. Shake the pan to check whether the moisture is fully absorbed. Open the lid.

To finish, pour hot desi ghee, bhuna khoya and saffron, ground in kewra jal. Mix well and serve hot or at room temperature, garnished with slivers of pistachios, almonds and silver foil.

Zarda Pulao

Sheesh Ranga

A colourful variation of the Zarda Pulao, the Sheesh Ranga or the six-coloured pulao is a visual delight apart from being extremely delicious. Attempting to capture the colours of the rainbow in the cooking pot, the rakabdars of Awadh designed this sweet rice preparation for their whimsical masters whose penchant for disguise and novelty in food led to great culinary feats!

INGREDIENTS

1 kg basmati rice 1½ kg sugar 500 gm khoya 8 green cardamoms 1 cup kewra jal A few drops of mitha ittr 5 edible colours (red, green, yellow, orange, violet) 200 gm ghee A few live charcoal 300 gm (to seal) atta dough 5 litres of water

FOR GARNISH 20 gm pistachios 50 gm almonds

Place the sugar in a pan with one litre of water. Bring to boil. Add milk little by little and the scum will come up. Remove scum and repeat the cleaning process. When clear, boil further until syrup is of one string consistency. Remove. Wash and soak rice for one hour. Boil about 4 litres of water with green cardamom for a few minutes. Add rice and boil (josh) until it is half cooked. Drain the water through a muslin cloth. Heat sugar syrup in a heavy handi and bring to boil. Add kewra jal and rice and bring to a boil. Cover with tight-fitting lid and seal with atta dough. Place some live coal on the lid. Put on ‘dum’ for about thirty minutes. Shake the pan to see that all the moisture is absorbed and the rice is done. Cut a brown paper into a disc, of a diameter roughly equal to that of the handi. Fold into six and cut one-sixth section. Place over rice. Dissolve all the colours separately in five bowls. Pour one dissolved colour over the cut section. Rotate the disc and put another colour through the cut section.

In the same way add the five colours and leave one portion white.

Cover and keep again on hot coal for a few minutes. Meanwhile, in a kadhai, stir the khoya with ghee on a slow flame till it is golden pink in colour and of a crumbly texture, remove and keep. Open the handi of rice and add bhunna khoya and mitha ittr and mix well. Serve garnished with slivers of pistachios and almonds.

Sheesh Ranga

‘The warm winds have begun to blow … Basant leads to Holi… Holi to Navroz … The river flows gently, meeting the growing needs of the city. The barges of yellow clad, Basant celebration came to abrupt end on 18th February 1856 and that was the end of the flourish of the festivities…’

‘Muzaffar Ali in his article, ‘The fragrance of a golden time’, March 1993

Ananas ka Muzaffar

INGREDIENTS

500 gm good-quality rice 750 gm sugar (If the rice is more than three years old, sugar required is 1 kg) 125 gm desi ghee ½ gm saffron 2 tbsp. desi ghee 100 gm dry fruits 10 small cardamoms 10 cloves A few slices of pineapple 250 gm danedar khoya (granulated)

Cook the rice along with saffron until three-fourth done. Drain off the excess water.

Heat 125 gm of desi ghee in a thick-bottomed pan. Add cloves and cardamom to it. Then put a layer of rice and top it off with chopped pineapple and sugar. Repeat until all the ingredients are used.

Cover the pan and put it on a slow fire on ‘dum’ on a griddle for about forty-five minutes to one hour.

When cooked, cover with silver foil and chopped nuts to top it. Add danedar khoya fried in two tbsp. of pure ghee on the top of rice.

A good Muzaffar has all the rice grains separate and whole.

The entrance to the Asafi Imambara

The bread maker

Breads

Indian breads have a unique character, very different from their Western counterparts in of taste and variety. The knowledge of the art of making bread is very basic to any cook. Always prepared fresh and hot for every meal, or at the most, carried over for the next meal, a day-old bread is not considered fit for consumption. It is not a ‘commodity’ bought off the shelf but essentially home fare. For large-scale catering, special cooks for roti are hired.

The variety of breads is immense—ranging from the humble roti to the naan, the poori and paratha. Each of these categories in turn has several varieties too. In Awadh alone, as many as 150 varieties of bread are known to have been cooked! The dough for one bread differs from the others in the composition of fat ingredients. The kind of flour used, the amount of fat incorporated in it, the use of ‘khameer’ or raising agent, and the inclusion of special flavourings, nuts or vegetables—all lend a different character to the bread. The method of cooking is also vital to the bread, that is, whether it is cooked dry on a griddle or fried, whether cooked in a tandoor or deep-fried, the way it is rolled out, the subtle twists and turns—all make these breads what they are, a work of art.

Roomali Roti

The ‘Roomali Roti’ is suggestive of the scarf or handkerchief-like appearance of this bread. Shaped without rolling on a board and cooked on a convex iron griddle, this bread is very special to Awadh. The fine texture of the bread makes it an excellent accompaniment to delicate kababs and kormas.

INGREDIENTS

150 gm wholewheat flour 50 gm refined flour Salt to taste 10 ml melted ghee Cold water for kneading

Sift the wheat flour and refined flour with salt. Rub in the melted ghee. Slowly add water and make a soft dough. Keep it covered with a damp cloth for thirty minutes. The dough should be very elastic. Knead well again. Divide the dough in six equal portions. Shape them into round balls. Roll out each ball into small rounds on the floured ‘chakla’ (wooden disk). Hold this on the back of your palm and circle it/twist it anti-clockwise and swing it, then again catch it on the back of palm of the same hand. Keep repeating until the diameter of the same becomes about 30 cm.

Care should be taken to maintain the round shape and even thickness throughout.

These rotis are cooked on the convex side of the griddle, something like an inverted kadhai or wok and takes just about a minute to cook.

These rotis are folded into quarters or sixes.

Rumali roti being prepared in a restaurant

Sheermal

The ‘Sheermal’, invented in Lucknow by an ace bread maker by the name of Muhammadan, is a rich bread consisting mainly of flour, milk, fat and saffron. Though traditionally cooked in an iron tandoor, it can be cooked in a mahi tawa also by covering with a lid and applying heat from the top and bottom.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg refined flour 1 litre milk ½ tsp. green cardamom powder 700 gm melted fat/ghee 1 tsp. saffron soaked in warm milk 1 tbsp sugar ½ tsp. kewra essence

Prepare a dough with flour and milk flavoured with cardamom powder. Keep aside for thirty minutes. Now add melted fat with sugar. Work out with fingers till the fat is incorporated into the dough and it acquires a stringy consistency. This involves a great deal of expertise as after a stage it is very difficult to make small, gentle and circular movements with the fingers.

Let the dough sit with a damp cloth in a cool place for about one hour (added to the warm milk with saffron). Keep covered. Divide into twelve balls of equal size. Then roll out round rotis of six-inch diameter, prick with a fork and bake in a tandoor. If baking in an oven, use a preheated tray and place in the middle shelf. Bake for about 2–3 minutes or till brown specks appear on the bread. Flip and bake for the same time. Then baste with saffron-and kewra-flavoured milk. Wrap in damp napkin and serve with a korma, kaliya or kabab.

A shop selling Sheermal

Taftan

This is a delicious bread like the naan, cooked in a tandoor. It goes very well with rich kormas and kaliyas of Awadh.

INGREDIENTS

450 gm flour 25 gm yeast 2 tbsp. curd 3 tsp. sugar 2 tsp. salt 2 eggs 150 ml milk 25 gm ghee 25 gm oil 1 tbsp. kalonji

Warm milk. Sprinkle yeast and sugar and keep aside till it starts to froth.

Sift flour with salt. Make a bay paste in the centre. Pour the fermented yeast mixture, curd, eggs (beaten) and oil. Knead the dough to a smooth and elastic consistency. Place in a greased bowl and keep in a warm place for 6–8 hours. Punch the dough and make medium-sized round balls of equal size. Brush with oil and again keep aside for another twenty minutes. Roll out each with a rolling pin so that it is broad at one end and very narrow at the other. Then pull the narrow end gently so as to give it the shape of a tear drop. Brush with ghee, sprinkle kalonji and bake in a hot tandoor, basting with milk and ghee. Serve hot.

Dal Kachori

A traditional Indian bread, this is part of festive menus and is very popular with the Hindus.

INGREDIENTS

FOR DOUGH 450 gm flour 50 gm sooji 25 gm ghee/mustard oil 1 tbsp. salt Cold water to knead

FOR FILLING 200 gm urad dal 5 gm fennel seeds A pinch of asafoetida 1 tbsp. garam masala 10 gm red chilli powder

Salt to taste 5 gm cumin powder 25 gm ghee/oil

FOR FRYING 250 gm ghee or oil

Soak urad dal overnight and grind to a coarse paste. Coarsely pound the fennel seeds. Add asafoetida, garam masala, chilli powder, salt, cumin powder and fennel seeds powder. Cook in a kadhai with ghee till it leaves the sides and becomes dry. Keep aside and cool. Prepare hard dough with flour, fat and suji using cold water. Cover with a damp cloth and keep aside for thirty minutes. Then make walnut-sized balls from the dough for rolling. Flatten the dough on the palm and stuff a little filling. Seal and roll to the size of 5–7 cm in diameter and deep-fry in ghee turning once. Strain after the kachori puffs up and becomes golden brown in colour. Serve hot with vegetables or mango pickle. Dal Kachori is a festive bread, almost always incorporated in a vegetarian menu in north India. Stuffed with urad dal, it is eaten as a snack as well as a meal, served with vegetables or raita.

Nimona and Dal Kachori

Bakarkhani

This is a rich nutty bread and chronologically came into making much earlier than Sheermal. The rich crumbly texture is a delight to the palate.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg flour 2 tsp. green cardamom powder 300 ml milk 200 gm balai 1 tbsp. castor sugar 25 gm cashew nut paste 750 gm fat

Sift flour in a large bowl. Make a bay in the centre and add milk flavoured with cardamom powder. Prepare a smooth dough and keep aside.

Cream balai with sugar and cashew nut paste till smooth. Pour melted ghee and paste of balai, sugar and cashew nuts into the dough and leave for ten minutes. With the help of the fingers mix the fat into the dough in a circular motion. This involves a great deal of expertise and only comes with practice.

While the fat is incorporated into the dough it should be noted that the dough is not handled much and no swift movements are made with the fingers.

To test whether the dough is prepared, drop a little of it with your hands—it should fall in threads.

The prepared dough is then kept aside in a cool place for about one hour, so that the fat does not melt.

Make round balls and flatten them to a roti of four-inch diameter with the help of a rolling pin. Prick and bake in a hot tandoor until cooked.

Preparation of the fat for Bakarkhani and Sheermal

600 gm vanaspati 150 gm animal fat 3 green cardamom powder 1 cup kewra jal

Animal fat is melted in a large saucepan and then vanaspati is added to it. The two are then heated till it starts to smoke and then cooled by adding kewra jal into it. It is again heated and then cooled by adding kewra jal. Heat again till all the jal evaporates. Green cardamom powder is then added and the prepared fat is

strained and used in the preparation of breads.

Warqui Paratha

The Warqui Paratha or the ‘layered’ paratha is a gourmet’s delight. Cooked with a lot of ghee, it can be stored far a longer duration. It is a popular bread for picnics and journeys, as it tastes good even when cold and goes very well with kababs. It is a standard breakfast fare too.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg flour 1 tbsp. salt 50 gm ghee 20 gm sugar Water for kneading

FOR LAYERING 150 gm malai 200 gm fat 50 gm flour A few drops of kewra essence

Prepare a soft dough with flour, salt, ghee, sugar and cold water. Keep aside for 30–45 minutes in a cool place.

Shape into equal round balls and roll it with a rolling pin about 5–6 cm in diameter. Put an even layer of the fat mixture on one rolled surface. Fold into half. Apply fat mixture on surface. Refold into quarters. Shape this quarter into a ball gently. Repeat the process once again. Finally, roll into circular shapes 12 to 15 cms. in diameter. Bake in a moderate oven or fry on a griddle.

Filling for layering

Cream malai, flour and fat together till smooth and add a little bit of kewra essence to it. This mixture is used to layer the different types of flaky parathas and naans.

Warqui Paratha

Kulcha

The Kulcha is a favourite accompaniment to the Nehari. The soft texture of this bread is good with curries.

INGREDIENTS

450 gm flour 50 gm curd 15 gm ghee 1 tbsp. sugar 150 ml milk 15 gm yeast 1 tbsp. salt

Sprinkle yeast, sugar and salt in warm milk and leave it to froth for twenty minutes.

Sift flour, make a bay in the centre, add the fermented mixture and melted ghee and make a dough with curd. Cover with a damp cloth and leave it to rise for 3–4 hours.

Divide into equal rounds and bake it in a hot tandoor basting with milk. Serve hot.

A chikankaar

Jalebi, one of the readily available sweets

Sweet Dishes

The degree of finesse of a cuisine can be judged by a look at its sweets and desserts. The rich, extravagant and highly decorated sweets of Lucknow reflect its past glories. The contribution of both the Hindu halwai and Muslim rakabdar have resulted in a confluence of expertise in the making of an exquisite varieties of sweets. The Barfi, Peda, Imarti, Jalebi, Balai ke Tukre, Shahi Tukre, Halwa Sohan and Kheer Sewain are just a few varieties to illustrate the point. Each of these has several varieties too. These sweets are mostly milk-based with a liberal use of kewra water, green cardamoms, nuts and silver leaf. Among the wide array of sweets are those prepared by the rakabdars, by the womenfolk in their kitchens and others which are street fare and those available in shops.

Every happy moment is celebrated with the partaking of sweets. It is fare offered to the gods by Hindus, or prepared in every Muslim household particularly during the month of Ramzan for the ‘Iftar’. Such is the importance of desserts in all communities and religions.

Balai ke Tukre

In Awadh, the balai has been a very popular milk product consumed either directly or as an enriching ingredient. The cooling properties of balai and its favourable effect on the skin reinforce its liberal use in this region. It is said that so great was the ion for balai among the noblemen that they did not hesitate to forego this stuff of which their lives were made of! The ‘Balai ke Tukre’ is a tribute of the rakabdars to this strange ion of their masters. The original recipe emanated from the house of Choudhary Hajee-uddin Ashaf of Satrikh—a small town not far from Lucknow. The Choudhary was a great gourmet and revelled in competing with his friends in dishing out the most novel and exciting dishes. Though the recipe for this delicacy has many variations, we mention the original—as told to us by his granddaughter.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg balai 1 kg sugar 50 gm alum powder 50 ml rose water 50 gm pistachio 4 silver leaves 2 tbsp. milk 1 tbsp. water

Buy the balai in a tray (or make it at home). Cut it into several two-inches squares. In a vessel heat the sugar in a litre of water and bring to boil, stirring occasionally. Prepare a thin syrup of one-string consistency. Add the milk and stir and bring to a boil. Remove the scum which floats on the top. Then remove from the fire and pour into a lagan. Add the rose water and stir. Now in a bowl containing a litre of water, dissolve the alum powder well. Pick one square piece of balai carefully with a spatula and place on one palm. With the other hand, sprinkle some of the alum solution on it and pat. Then flip the balai and repeat the same on the other side too. Now carefully float the balai piece on the sugar syrup. Treat all the pieces of balai with the alum solution and arrange in the lagan without any overlapping. Now cover the lagan and place slow charcoal fire on the top and cook for about 20–30 minutes, so that the balai turns brown. Then remove the lid and apply slow charcoal fire from below, placing the charcoal on the periphery below the lagan. Cook till all the liquid evaporates. Carefully remove and arrange on a platter. Decorate with silver leaves and garnish with fine slices of pistachio.

Sewain ka Muzaffar

INGREDIENTS

400 gm roasted vermicelli/sevaiyaan 400 gm sugar 150 gm ghee 400 ml milk ½ tsp. saffron

FOR GARNISH 200 gm khoya 10 gm pistachio nuts 30 gm almonds 50 gm cashew nuts 3–4 silver foil

Soak saffron in a little milk and cruch. Cut nuts into ‘hawaiyan’ (slivered)’. Mash and fry khoya for a few minutes until light brown. Heat ghee at moderate flame in a shallow pan. Fry sewain on slow fire till light brown. Add milk, stir quickly to blend. Cook for 2–3 minutes. Add sugar, mix well and cover. Cook gently until sugar which turns into syrup is absorbed and sewai are dry. Add half of the khoya and mix well.

Arrange into serving dish and garnish with remaining khoya, nuts and silver leaf (warq) on top.

Halwa-e-Badaam

The Almond Halwa or ‘Halwa-e-Badaam’ is a nutritious as well as delicious halwa. Also a winter favourite among the rich, it is the secret of their strength, vitality and glowing complexion.

INGREDIENTS

500 gm almonds 250 gm poppy seeds 4 litre milk 500 gm khoya 750 gm sugar 750 gm ghee ½ tsp. saffron 10 green cardamoms 2 silver foils

Soak the almonds in 1 litre of water overnight. Soak the poppy seeds in a cup of milk mixed with a cup of water for one hour. Mash khoya to fine crumbs and keep aside. Pound the cardamom to a fine powder. Peel and grind the almonds to a fine paste. Drain all the liquid from the poppy seeds by ing them through a

fine sieve and grind to a paste. Blend the almonds and poppy seeds paste in the milk to form a smooth mixture, pour in a thick kadhai and cook on slow flame, preferably wood or charcoal fire, stirring constantly. When the mixture begins to thicken, add khoya, green cardamom and sugar and saffron dissolved in warm milk, and stir till the sugar dissolves. When the mixture appears to thicken again, add ghee and keep stirring well. When the halwa leaves the sides of the kadhai and turns to a golden pink colour, remove in a bowl or a tray. It tastes best when had hot. If you want to store it for a longer period, set in a tray and cut into diamond shapes of desired size and store in a cool place. Garnish with silver foil.

Jauzi Halwa Sohan

In Awadh, winter is the time for ‘Halwas’ of all kinds. The history of the ‘Halwas’ can be traced to Arabia and Persia, from where it came, to stay in India. There are several varieties of these, prepared from different cereals, such as gram flour, sooji wheat, nuts and even eggs. The special halwa or Halwa Sohan which has four varieties, viz, Papadi. Jauzi, Habshi and Dudhiya is prepared specially well in Lucknow. The Jauzi Halwa Sohan is a hot favourite even today, but the art of preparing it is confined to only a few households. Prepared for the most part from germinated wheat, milk, sugar, saffron, nuts, etc., it has love and patience as its vital ingredients. Only a Lucknowi can appreciate the play of ‘Shabnam’ or dewdrops on the wheat kept out under the night sky for germination. For the rest the role of the morning sun and evening dew may remain a mystery.

INGREDIENTS

250 gm samnak (wheat extract) 5 litres milk 500 gm khoya 1 kg sugar 1 kg ghee 1 tsp. saffron ½ tsp. kewra jal

1 blade of mace 1 pinch of nutmeg 10 green cardamoms

The wheat extract or samnak is available at the grocer’s or perfume (ittr) shop. The method for preparing it is as follows. Pick and wash approximately 1 kg of wheat. In a basket spread a moist muslin cloth and place the wheat in it. Then cover with the cloth and keep out in the night in the open to allow dew to fall on it. Repeat this for 6–7 days, keeping the cloth moist till small shoots emerge from the wheat. Now wash and grind the germinated wheat using some water. Then through muslin cloth to obtain the extract. This is the protein-rich samnak, vital for the preparation of this Halwa Sohan. It is best prepared on slow wood fire. It takes several hours to prepare but the final product is worth the wait!

In a kadhai, mix the wheat extract and milk and cook on a slow fire, stirring constantly. This process is important to obtain the right consistency. When the milk is reduced to half, add mashed khoya, stirring constantly to blend to a smooth mixture. Then add dissolved saffron in kewra jal, and sugar. Keep stirring. When the sugar is incorporated into the mixture and it becomes thick and difficult to stir, add ghee from the sides and stir well for about 20–30 minutes. When the halwa no longer sticks to the kadhai and becomes a cohesive mass, turn it out in a greased tray or ‘thali’. Finely grind the mace, nutmeg and cardamom. Sieve and sprinkle on the halwa. Then mark out diamond-shaped pieces and serve when set. This can be stored for even a month in a cool place.

Sheer Kadhi

‘Sheer Kadhi’ is another balai preparation unique to this region. Nawab Agha, of Sheeshmahal, besides being a great swimmer, is a connoisseur of fine arts and cuisine. He led us into the secrets oj the haute cuisine of Lucknow, and this dish is his contribution. It bears resemblance to the Kadhi, which is a popular savoury dish in north India, hence the name.

INGREDIENTS

1 kg balai 1 litre milk 125 gm sugar 1½ tsp. kewra water 2–3 drops mitha ittr 1 tsp. saffron 1 small pinch of saffron colour 8 almonds 10 pistachios 10 green cardamoms

In a muslin cloth tied at ends, hang 750 gm of balai for 4–6 hours so that all the liquid drips off and a cohesive mass remains in the cloth. Place a bowl below, to collect the liquid which may be added later to the sweetened milk. Meanwhile, bring the milk to boil in a saucepan and add sugar. Stir and cook on a slow flame for ten minutes. Remove from fire and cool. Then sieve the remaining 250 gm of balai into the cold milk, add the saffron dissolved in warm milk, saffron colour, kewra jal and sweet ittr. Stir gently to blend all ingredients and turn out in a shallow serving dish and keep in a cool place.

Then blanch and peel the almonds and pistachios and cut into very fine slices. Pound the cardamom seeds to a fine powder. Mix with chopped nuts and keep.

Now untie the cloth and remove the ingredients in a plate and rub lightly. Make balls the size of olives, and stuff with a pinch of the nut mixture. Cover with silver leaf and float in the sweetened milk prepared earlier. This is a very appealing sweet dish, served in bowls after a meal.

Sheer Kadhi

Sheer Branj

Rice, which has been eulogized for centuries, is a versatile grain. Apart from being the staple foodgrain for most Indians, it is a common ingredient for several sweet delicacies. The ‘Kheer’ is a popular Indian dessert, also offered to the nawabs to please them. It has many variations such as the Kheer, Phirnee, Yakuti, Gile, Gulathi and Sheer Branj.

INGREDIENTS

3 litres milk 60 gm basmati rice 400 gm sugar 200 gm khoya 100 gm ghee 60 gm cashew nut paste 200 gm balai (malai) 200 gm cream 60 gm pista + almonds Few drops of mitha ittr 1½ cup kewra jal

¼ tsp. elaichi powder

Boil milk, add washed rice and cook gently till tender. Add half of the sugar. Do not stir until it boils again. Stir and cook gently for few minutes. Add mashed khoya, little by little, mixing well to avoid lump formation. Add half of the kewra jal, and the remaining sugar. Mix and keep on adding the remaining kewra jal. Keep stirring. Cook until thickened and it sticks to the spoon. Pour melted ghee mixing well. Grind malai, with cashew nut paste and mitha ittr. Add to Sheer Branj. Add elaichi powder. Cool to room temperature. Serve garnished with cream and hawaiyan (slivers) of pista and almonds.

Shakramba

The Shakramba prepared from sooji and raw mangoes is a typical Awadhi dessert popular during the summer months. We chanced upon this sweet dish in the mango orchards of Baragaon near Lucknow. Our hostess plied us with this delectable dish while extolling its beneficial effects. The sweetness of the kheer and the subtle tanginess of the raw Dussehri mango slices is simply delicious.

INGREDIENTS

1 litre milk 50 gm unripened mango ½ kg sugar 3 tbsp. sooji (semolina) 2 cloves 4 green cardamoms 30 ml ghee

Wash and peel the mangoes and cut long slices of it. Remove the seeds. Heat the ghee and saute the mango slices for five minutes on a medium flame. Remove with a slotted spoon and keep. In the same ghee add the cloves and cardamoms and roast the sooji flour for ten minutes on a slow flame. Then add milk and stir constantly to prevent lump formation. Cook for ten minutes. In a separate vessel make sugar syrup with the sugar and a cup of water. When the sugar dissolves,

boil the mango slices in it for five minutes. Then add the mango slices with the syrup to the sooji and milk mixture. Blend well. Cool and serve at lunch or breakfast.

The Chhota Imambara by night and day

Bada Imambara

Curd Dishes

Makhane ka Raita

Curd or natural yoghurt has been part of the Indian diet since time immemorial. Its cooling and digestive properties are well known. Used as a marinade, a cooling agent, salad dressing, beverage or dessert, it has a wide array of possibilities. In Indian cuisine its use in ‘curries and raitas’ is well known. Raita is served as a side dish with meats and vegetables, the main purpose being to tone down the effect of the hot spices.

Makhane ka Raita

This rich and nutty raita is very delicious. It can be served with pooris and kachoris.

INGREDIENTS

50 gm makhane (lotus seeds) 2 tbsp. chironji 1 tbsp raisins 2 cups milk ½ cup cream salt to taste A pinch of sugar 50 gm ghee ½ kg curd

Remove the hard black flakes from the lotus seeds and boil in milk for 7–8 minutes. Drain milk from the seed. Heat ghee and lightly fry chironji and raisins, and keep. Now the curd and cream through a muslin cloth. Add salt and a pinch of sugar, makhane, chironji and raisins. Blend gently and serve chilled in a bowl.

Baigan ka Raita

This raita prepared from round aubergine roasted on a slow charcoal fire, or an oven, is a delectable dish.

INGREDIENTS

400 gm curd 1 large round aubergine 5 cloves of garlic 2 green chillies 3–4 sprigs of mint leaves ½ tsp. cumin seeds Salt to taste 1 tsp. oil/ghee

Wash the aubergine and make five small gashes on it. Peel the garlic and insert a clove of garlic in each gash. Now roast on slow charcoal fire, by covering with slow-burning wood or charcoal for 20 minutes. Alternatively, roast in an oven at a low temperature. Test with a knife whether done. If the knife es through easily, remove from the fire and dip in a bowl of water to cool. Then remove the charred skin carefully. Mash the pulp and keep. Now whisk the curd and mix the pulp. Add salt. Finely chop the green chillies and mint leaves and add to the

mixture. Then apply baghar by heating a tablespoon of oil in a ladle and adding cumin seeds. When they begin to crackle, pour onto the raita. Serve in a bowl along with vegetables and chapatis.

Boorani

In the Awadh of yore the Boorani was most common on the dastarkhwan, though several varieties of raitas made their appearance subsequently.

INGREDIENTS

250 gm curd Salt to taste ½ tsp. pepper

Sieve the curd through muslin cloth or a fine sieve. Add salt and pepper and blend well. Serve in a bowl along with a korma and pulao dish.

Kheere ka Raita

Kheera or cucumber is a very common salad item in the hot summer months when the plains are swept by hot dusty winds or the ‘looh’. This raita helps to condition the body and prevent heat strokes.

INGREDIENTS

250 gm curd 1 medium cucumber 1 tbsp. cumin Salt to taste Chilli powder to taste (optional) ½ tsp. black salt

Roast the cumin seeds on a griddle till they turn light brown. Dry-grind finely. The black salt, which is usually sold in crystal form should also be ground to a powder. Now whisk the curd and keep. Peel and grate the cucumber and mix in the curd. Add the cumin, black salt, ordinary salt and chilli powder. Blend well and serve cold in a bowl along with curries and rice.

Phalon ka Raita

This raita is a variation within cucumber, apple, pineapple. The fruits can be varied according to taste and season. It tastes best when made slightly bland with soft, crunchy, sweet and tangy fruits or vegetables mixed together.

INGREDIENTS

500 gm curd 1 cucumber 1 apple 3 pineapple rings Salt to taste

Tie the curd in a muslin cloth and hang for one hour to allow the water to drip off. Then sieve and keep aside. Peel the cucumber, remove the pith and seeds and cut into small cubes. Boil in half a cup of water till tender but not too soft. Drain and keep aside. Peel and cube the apple. Also cube the pineapple. Now mix all the three ingredients in curd with a little salt. Blend and serve in a bowl.

The Roomi Darwaza

A Glossary of Spices and Ingredients

An antique paandaan

lf variety is the spice of life, it is the spices which lend variety to food. Spices are an integral part of Indian cuisine. It is the different variations and combination of spices which create variety in the different dishes from the states of India.

The bawarchis and the rakabdars of Awadh, by their expertise of blending spices, achieved a high degree of finesse in the cooking and presentation of food and took culinary art to the highest realms ever witnessed in this country.

An interesting feature of Awadh cuisine is the contribution of the hakims. Their medicine for a range of ailments was mostly derived from herbs and spices and was often in the form of diet prescriptions which were not only curative but also immensely palatable. Also keeping in mind the colourful disposition of the nawabs, they created such dishes as the kushtas, which would satisfy the biggest of harems!

Thus the final product from the kitchens was not only pleasing to the palate, but also had a positive effect on the body owing to the harmonious blend of knowledge and expertise by way of the blending of ingredients in the various dishes.

The following are the commonly used spices and ingredients in Awadh cuisine:

Allspice (Kababchini): The name allspice recognizes the fact that the berries smell like a blend of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. It is an important ingredient for kababs. It has a long history as a food preservative, especially meat. It is used either whole or ground, preferably freshly ground.

Anise (Saunf): It is an appetizer used in wines and cooked dishes. It has excellent carminative qualities with a liquorice-like flavour. Used to garnish root vegetables and breads.

Asafoetida (Heeng): It is the resinous gum of a tree. It is dirty yellow in colour and has a pungent smell. Commonly used in baghars, it is one of the best remedies for flatulence.

Bay leaf (Tej patta): It is a herb with preservative properties. Also used in baghars. It has a powerful flavour which makes a good addition to curries because of its sweetness.

Black peppercorns (Kali mirch): Next to chillies, this is the most commonly used spice throughout India. It has a strong, pungent, spicy flavour. A digestive spice, rich in vitamin C, it is used in all meat dishes and some fish and vegetable dishes. It is used whole or ground (preferably freshly ground) and gives an extraordinary lift to the simplest of food.

Caraway seeds (Kala zeera): It is a carminative and aromatic spice with a delicious characteristic flavour. It is an important ingredient in Awadh cuisine used for flavouring meat dishes. It has a very subtle flavour. Therefore, when cooked with rice the subtle flavour of both can be fully appreciated.

Cardamom (Elaichi): There are two varieties of cardamoms—brown and green. The former is generally used for savoury food. The latter with its cool scented flavour, is equally welcomed in a curry blend and in puddings. It subsides the air and water elements, increases the appetite and soothes the mucus membrane. The seeds are very hard and should be pounded before use in cooking.

Chillies (Mirch): There are three varieties of chillies used in Indian cuisine: green chillies, red chillies and yellow chillies. The green chillies are the fresh peppers, rich in vitamin C and add a spicy flavour to the food. They can be used chopped, sliced, crushed, or slit lengthways. Red chillies are the hottest of all peppery spices and should be used with caution. They are a necessary ingredient of all Indian curries and are most commonly used in powdered form. The Ayurveda recommends it as an aid for digestion and cure for paralysis. Since it aids the saliva and gastric juices, it helps to overcome a weak appetite.

Cinnamon (Dalchini): It is the dried inner bark of the cinnamon tree. It has a gentle, sweet, musky flavour which goes well with meat. Used in love potions of yore, in modern medicine it is used to counter flatulence. Used powdered or whole it is an ingredient for both sweet and savoury dishes.

Cloves (Laung): It has a hard, dried, powerful aroma and a sweet tangy flavour which enhances the flavour of fish, meat, vegetables or pulses. It also has valuable antiseptic and digestive properties.

Coriander leaves (Dhania patti): The aromatic fresh leaves of the coriander plants are indispensable as a garnish. Also used in chutneys.

Coriander seeds (Dhania): The seeds of the coriander plant have a mild,

sweet and pungent flavour. The seed is used when more aroma is required in the dish. The powder gives more flavour and body to the gravy. It imparts a fresh, lively zest to the food and is a common ingredient for curries. It acts as a carminative and cooling agent.

Cumin (Zeera): These are thin, long, beige-coloured seeds and have a strong flavour and aroma. They are often added to baghars or used in curries and yoghurt preparations. The dried seeds are used whole or ground. The flavour of the whole seed can be improved by lightly toasting them on a griddle. It is an essential part of all Indian spices. Well known for its carminative and stimulative effects, it has been prescribed as medicine for practically all organic complaints.

Fenugreek (Methi): It is an aromatic bitter-sweet spice, reddish yellow in colour, used in baghars for curries, pickles and chutneys. Because of its strong flavour it should be used sparingly. Rich in vitamins, iron and proteins, in Ayurveda it has been prescribed for reducing fevers and intestinal inflammations.

Garlic (Lahsun): Strong in flavour it is widely used as a spice for curries. Used chopped or sliced, in whole cloves or ground to a paste, it promotes the success of the other ingredients and is commonly used with ginger. Medicinally, garlic is reputed to aid digestion, reduce high blood pressure, expel catarrh from the chest and act as an antiseptic. Because of its overpowering flavour and aroma it should be used with discretion in cooking.

Ginger (Adrak): It is the root of a plant with a hot rich flavour, vital to Indian cooking. It is used ground or chopped for curries, pickles. chutneys, lentils or beans. It helps to counteract flatulence, aid digestion and is also beneficial in disorders connected with the formation of phlegm. It increases body heat if taken with jaggery.

Ginger dry (Saunth): The dried root ginger is less pungent than the root. When ground, it is a pale powder with a delicate aroma and a subtle mild taste. A carminative spice, it is used in curries and chutneys.

Lazzat-e-Taam: Indian cuisine is very rich and varied. The cuisine of the different regions of this country differs in the style and contents characterized chiefly by the use of their typical spices and condiments. Though the use of ‘garam masala’ for curries is a common practice in Awadh, the masala with a difference is ‘Lazzat-e-taam’. The word literally means ‘that which enhances the taste of the food’. This masala is available in powder form in a few select shops in Old Lucknow. The ingredients of this masala are many and sometimes difficult to find, but for the benefit of the readers who may like to prepare the masala themselves, we list the ingredients and the method.

Mace (Javitri): It is the dried outer shell of a nut, golden yellow in colour. It has a strong nutmeg flavour. Used whole or ground, it imparts a delicious flavour to sweet and savoury dishes. It is a sedative and carminative spice which can be substituted for nutmeg in most recipes.

Mint (Pudina): The aromatic leaves of this herb are used fresh or dried in chutneys, salads, fruit drinks or as garnish. The strong- flavoured leaves have great digestive and cooling properties.

Mustard (Sarson/Rai): These are yellow or black and have a sharp and hot flavour. Rich in manganese and vitamin D, they are used whole for baghars, and ground for curries and pickles.

Nigella (Kalaunji): These are black seeds resembling onion seeds, extensively used in cooking vegetables. breads and pickles. It is a carminative and destroys harmful intestinal parasites.

Nutmeg (Jaifal): It is a thimble-sized and almost egg-shaped kernel of the fruit. The best way to use this spice is by grating it freshly as and when needed. It goes well with egg, meat and spinach. It has digestive properties.

Pomegranate seeds (Anardana): These are dried seeds of the fruit which impart a tarty flavour to the food.

INGREDIENTS

5 gm clove 7 gm green cardamom 5 gm big cardamom 3 gm mace 2 gm cinnamon 1 nutmeg 5 gm black pepper 5 gm coriander seeds 5 gm baobeer 5 gm allspice

5 gm coconut 5 gm jarakush 5 gm cumin 5 gm caraway seeds 5 gm sandalwood powder 3 gm dry rose petals 5 gm makhana 1 gm bay leaf 5 gm poppy seeds 5 gm fennel seeds 5 gm anise seeds 5 gm white pepper dry fennel leaves 1 tbsp. kewra jal 1 tbsp. mitha ittr

Poppy seeds (Khuskhus): These tiny ivory, coloured seeds are used for their scant flavour and nutty texture. They are generally lightly toasted before grinding for use in gravyies. This aromatic spice is rich in proteins and stimulates appetite. It imparts a softness in the texture of the meat or vegetables with which it is cooked. It is also a sedative and checks diarrhoea.

Saffron (Kesar/Zaffran): It is the world’s most expensive spice (it takes about 250,000 stigmas from about 76,000 of the blue-violet autumn crocus to yield 450 gm of saffron). Deep red-orange in colour the saffron strands are both a colouring and flavouring spice. They have a strong pervasive and a warm bitter-honey flavour. A small pinch is enough to flavour a dish. Specially cultivated in Kashmir, it is an important ingredient in almost all Awadh recipes—sweet or savoury. It is an effective stimulant and antispasmodic, and used by the hakims as a remedy for measles, dysentery and jaundice.

Salt (Namak): Salt is the first of all seasonings and essential to all dishes. It is a vital preservative for foods of all kinds.

Black Salt, (Kala namak): It is used in raitas, fruit-drinks, salads and sauces. It has an unusual flavour and carminative properties.

Turmeric (Haldi): It is a bright yellow powder of the ground rhizome used as a colouring and flavouring spice essential for curries and pickles. It has a warm, musty flavour. It helps in drawing out and balancing other flavours. It has strong preservative and medicinal properties. Oriental women also used it as a cosmetic.

Method Lightly roast all the dry ingredients on a griddle on a very slow flame till a subtle aroma emanates. Remove from the fire and pound or grind in a grinder. Sieve finely, then add kewra jal and mitha ittr. Rub well with the palms of the hand and sieve again. If the masala is still moist, dry indoors and store in an airtight jar for future use.

Other Cooking and Flavouring Agents

Alum (Fitkari): A valuable substance used for medicinal purpose; an astringent, it stops bleeding from cuts. Also cleanses water of all impurities. Used in many prescriptions for intermittent fevers, cough, diarrhoea and diseases of the eye.

Arrowroot (Arrant): A nutritious starch used in sweetmeats and faluda preparation.

Baking powder (Khane ka soda): A raising agent used in preparation of short crust pastries (khasta items) and batters.

Gold leaf (Sone ka warq): A very thin decorative sheet made from gold used as a garnish in sweet and savoury dishes. Edible but tasteless. The ‘warq’ is beaten to such a fine thinness that it flutters at the slightest movement like a leaf.

Jaggery (Gur): Unrefined palm sugar, used in pickles and desserts as sweetening agent, also made from sugar cane.

Kewra/Keora: Keora essence is extracted from the inner leaves and the flower petals of a small kind of palm common to south India. Not only is it used in desserts but also used in some meat and rice dishes. It is used to impart a flowery fragrance to a variety of dishes ranging from rice to sweet dishes.

Silver foil (Chandi ka warq): An edible, very thin sheet made from silver used for decoration/garnish in sweets, savouries and stuffed betel leaf (paan).

Sugar (Shakkar or Chini): Originated from India—white gold. In the middle ages it was considered a medicine. It may actually have demonstrated restorative powers because of its high energy carbohydrate (glucose) content.

Tamarind (Imli): Fruit of a large tree having pods 3–4 inches long, containing pith. Adds piquancy to the dishes. Bought as fibrous, black, sticky pulp, broken sudpods. Extract some flavour by soaking in hot water then squeezing. It has a sour and acidy flavour and is used extensively in cooking. Its alkaline properties counteract hyperacidity, bilious fevers, nausea and thirst. It also acts as an appetizer.

Vinegar (Sirka): A sour pickling agent and preservative prepared usually from sugar cane and rose apple (jamun). It alleviates bilious tumours. Used extensively in salads. It acts as a prophylactic against cholera and intestinal infections. Also relieves nausea and vomiting. Contains 3–9 per cent active acid from the oxidation of alcohol.

Nuts and Dry Fruits

Almond (Badam): The world’s most sought after nut. Used extensively in sweetmeats. Rich in iron, fats and proteins. In India, it is used in savoury dishes and also as a garnish.

Cashew nut (Kaju): Rich in protein and vitamin B and used in sweetmeats and some non-vegetarian dishes.

Chironji nut (Buchanania latifolia/Lanzan Chirautinut) : Used in puddings, desserts, kababs and meat dishes. Small, pale, slightly flattened nuts mottled with dark patches. Commonly used in korma and desserts.

Coconut (Narial gari): An oily nut used in curries and sweetmeats.

Dried dates (Chhuhara): An iron rich fruit used in south for sweetmeats.

Raisins (Munakka): Semi-dried black large grapes having medicinal value of energy food and usually had while convalescing.

Sultanas (Kishmish): Semi-dried white grapes used as garnish for sweets and kheer and vermicelli (semiya). Deep-fried and used as garnish for some kormas.

Milk Products

Layer of fresh cream (Balai): Layer of freshly made cream normally obtained as a thick coating on the surface of the milk which has been boiled and cooled. Rich in fat and vitamins. Used for enriching gravies and desserts.

Butter (Makhhan): A fat made by churning the cream, rich in vitamins A and D and used for making clarified butter (ghee) which is used as a cooking medium.

Cream cheese (Paneer): Similar to cottage cheese made by curdling the freshly boiled milk by addition of acids—usually lime juice or vinegar and straining the whey under mild pressure. Rich in vitamins.

Curd (Dahi): Can be used in chutneys, raitas, as the thickening ingredient for a sauce or as a marinade for kababs. Then, of course, it is also used for sweets or served on its own as a mild accompaniment to hot curries. Extremely versatile and in constant demand for the recipes throughout this book.

Clarified Butter (Ghee): Highest-quality cooking fat, made from butter. Old Sanskrit writings suggest that the consumption of ghee could improve a person’s appearance, speaking powers, mental process and digestion. It was a staple dietary recommendation for wrestlers. Best-preferred cooking medium in India. When applied on freshly prepared breads like naans and rotis it enhances the taste and aroma. A cheaper ghee substitute is made by hydrogenated vegetable oils.

Khoya: Khoya is the granular residue obtained by evaporating fresh milk. It is a popular base for sweetmeats and halwas and adds body and richness to any sweet or savoury dish.

Acknowledgements

So many people have helped make this book possible, we wish we could thank them all personally.

Our foremost acknowledgement is to Sri B.K. Goswami, who has been associated with the book from the very beginning.

We are deeply indebted to chef Mohammad Farooq, who shared with us his knowledge and skills pertaining to Awadhi food.

We wish to thank our friends, Chowdhry and Begum Habib, Choudhary and Begum Ata-ur-Rehman Kidwai, Rizwan-ur-Rehman, Dr Nehal Raza, Kunwar Umesh Singh and his family, Kunwar R.P. Singh and his wife, Sanjay Bali, Najma Begum, Nehal Warsi, Nawab Asaf Jah, Nawab Kazmi, Raja Sulaiman of Mahamoodabad and Muzaffar Ali for introducing us to the finest food.

We are also grateful to the following institutions for their cooperation: Institute of Hotel Management, Lucknow; National Research Laboratory for Conservation of Culture, Lucknow; UP Tourism Corporation; State Museum, Lucknow and Hotel Clarks Awadh, Lucknow.

First published in India in 1997 by HarperCollins Publishers India

Copyright © Sangeeta Bhatnagar and R.K. Saxena 1997, 2006 and 2015

ISBN: 978-93-5177-388-7 Epub Edition © July 2015 ISBN: 978-93-5177-384-9

2 4 6 8 10 9 7 5 3 1

Sangeeta Bhatnagar and R.K. Saxena assert the moral right to be identified as the authors of this work.

All rights reserved under The Copyright Act, 1957. By payment of the required fees, you have been granted the nonexclusive, nontransferable right to access and read the text of this ebook on-screen. No part of this text may be reproduced, transmitted, ed, decompiled, reverse-engineered, or stored in or introduced into any information storage and retrieval system, in any form or by any means, whether electronic or mechanical, now known or hereinafter invented, without the express written permission of HarperCollins Publishers India.

Photographs by Anil Risal Singh, ARPS, AFIAP, AHPC and Arrt Creations

www.harpercollins.co.in

HarperCollins Publishers A-75, Sector 57, Noida, Uttar Pradesh 201301, India 1 London Bridge Street, London, SE1 9GF, United Kingdom Hazelton Lanes, 55 Avenue Road, Suite 2900, Toronto, Ontario M5R 3L2 and 1995 Markham Road, Scarborough, Ontario M1B 5M8, Canada 25 Ryde Road, Pymble, Sydney, NSW 2073, Australia 195 Broadway, New York, NY 10007, USA

TALK TO US

the conversation on Twitter http://twitter.com/HarperCollinsIN

Like us on Facebook to find and share posts about our books with your friends http://www.facebook.com/HarperCollinsIndia

Follow our photo stories on Instagram http://instagram.com/harpercollinsindia/

Get fun pictures, quotes and more about our books on Tumblr http://www.tumblr.com/blog/harpercollinsindia