Textile Industry Internship Report 4n6s56

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY C. A. Site No. - 21, Sector-1, 27th main road, HSR Layout Bangalore.

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT ON

BHARAT VIJAY MILLS, KALOL NORTH GUJARAT.

SUBMITTED BY: ISHITA PANDEY NEENU SUKUMARAN RANI TREASA JOSEPH RASHMI AGARWAL

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT At the outset, we wish to express our gratitude to everybody who has assisted in formulation of this report. There are a many to whom expression of gratitude is inevitable, but there some special people who has to be given prominence, without whom we would not have reached the conclusion of this project so quickly and so efficiently. We wish to thank Mr. A.K. Khare and Mr. Shivalingam for providing this wonderful opportunity, channeling and motivation. No amount of Gratitude is adequate for Mr. Rahul Patel and Mr. Amit Patel for their consent in allowing us to conduct our internship in their venerated institution. We express our deep indebtedness to Mr. M. K. Chaturvedy, the Human Resource Manager who guided and ed us through every stage of our internship. We also wish to thank Mr. H.J Shah, Mr. Daxesh Lala, Mr. Mukesh J. Shah, Mr H. M. Raval, Mr. Atmaram Patel, Mr. Siraj, Mr .Subhash G. Patel, Mr. Ravin Mehta, Mr. G. C. Bairi, Mr. Sunil Tailor, Mr. Ganesh Aher and Mr. Ravin Mehta for their technical guidance and assistance. We take this opportunity to express our affection towards our parents for their consistent faith and . Ishita Pandey Neenu Sukumaran Rani Treasa Joseph Rashmi Agarwal

INDEX PREFACE 1. INTRODUCTION TO BHARAT VIJAY MILL 2. DEPARTMENTS i) OPERATIONS a) SPINNING b) YARN DYEING c) WEAVING d) GREY FOLDING e) CORDUROY f) PROCESSING g) FINISH FOLDING h) SQC i) PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL j) LABORATORY k) ENGINEERING l) ETP ii) ISTRATION a) RETAIL SHOP b) GENERAL ISTRATION c) HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT d) PERSONNEL iii) MARKETING a) MARKETING b) DESPATCH c) DESIGN DEPARTMENT iv) PROCUREMENT a) PURCHASE b) STORES

c) WASTE d) COTTON DEPARTMENT v) FINANCE a) S 3. CONCLUSION ANNEXURES

PREFACE The blend of the practice and principle- an industrial internship project transforms the classroom student into a multidimensional internee. The real life experiences gathered through the period helps the pupil to learn practical aspects and application of theoretical knowledge. It provides a huge positive impact on the student in the spheres of interpersonal skills, exposure, group work and experimentation. The textile intership at Bharat Vijay mills is evidently the experience which provided the spectrum of psychophysical knowledge and experience. Located at a centre of rich culture and nationalistic history, Gujarat, the composite unit expresses a strict environment which breeds exclusive expansion and development. As a internee at Bharat Vijay Mills we assume our engrossment of an amount of this superior order and management. Our Major Objectives of study were: 1. To study the working environment of the industry 2. To study the departmental processes and their interrelation within the organization 3. To study the Organisational Structure We have tried our best to sum up the total work process of the industry through observations and interactions.

1 INTRODUCTION

1. INTRODUCTION Established in the year 1931, Bharat Vijay Mills (BVM), a composite textile mill, initially operated on a very modest scale at Kallol, a town 30 Km in North of Ahmedabad (India). In 1956, the present management took over. With an infusion of motivation and enduring commitment to excellence the mill expanded. It has grown into 50 million US$ group turnover with a dedicated work force of 1600 people in the textile division. Today, BVM is a vertically integrated plant having its own spinning to finishing facilities. BVM has been the undisputed leader in varied product mix for the last 70 years with a continuous expansion of its product range. Since last 20 years it has established a name in global market with its Yarn Dyed / Piece Dyed Shirting, Corduroy & Bottom Weight. BVM’s 80% of textile production consists of shirting and 20% consists of suiting and corduroy. Their renowned buyers are Madhura garments. Allen Solly, Peter England, Zodiac, San Francisco etc., is their major end buyers. The textile division consists of 350 staff and 1800 workers BVM’S VISION: To achieve global presence in Textile business, through continuous product and technological innovation, customer orientation and a focus on cost effectiveness, quality and services. BVM’S MISSION: Belief in strong customer orientation. THE GEOSPHERE: Ahmedabad, one of the fastest-growing cities in western India, is the commercial capital of Gujarat. Located on the banks of the Sabarmati River, it has had a colourful history dating back to antiquity unlike the new metropolitan city. It has numerous fashionable hotels, glittering shopping malls, high-rise business buildings and innumerable vehicles ranging from the latest sleek limousines to three-wheelers.

Looking back in 1411, the city now known as 'Ahmedabad' was founded by Sultan Ahmed Shah, who named it after himself. During the Sultanate, the rulers encouraged the merchants, and crafts in come to Ahmedabad and make it a flourishing commercial and industrial city. An imperial atelier was located here, which produced exquisite textile and other artifacts for the Imperial Court at Delhi. Even in those days, experts contributed to Ahmedabad's prosperity A hilarious Ahmedabadi is renowned for his spirit of enterprise. Over a hundred years ago, Indian entrepreneurs established textile mills in Ahmedabad. Soon enough, the chimneystacks of these modern composite mills covered almost the entire skyline, giving it the sobriquet 'Manchester of India' over a hundred years. It is no surprise therefore that Ahmedabad continued to grow. With the phenomenal increase in population, the demand for more urban facilities, including accommodation, and the entire infrastructure considered essential to modern life, began putting a tremendous strain on the existing civic amenities. The main characteristic of Ahmedabad is that it continues to remain, as it was in the beginning, a commercial city, and a major center of trade. Today's city, with its teeming millions, its crowded streets, and burgeoning industries reflects some of these changes. Bharat Vijay Mills is expanded spinning mill from 18 million mtrs/yr to 24 million mtrs/yr at Kalol in Gujarat. As of October 2005, construction work has been initiated and equipment suppliers were appointed. The spinning mill is scheduled for commissioning by end 2006. Plans are also on the anvil to set up a readymade garment facility with an investment of Rs.400 million. HISTORY OF BVM: 

1931-1970’s- manufacturers of sarees.



1970’s – 1980’s – (while the textile industry faced business/ market crisis) ed with Sintex (plastic manufacturing company) and sustained the crisis by manufacturing Sintex plastic tanks



Since 1980s, 90s - started functioning as a textile division of Sintex industries.



Divided into both textile and plastic with textile consisting of the 1/3 rd of the income.

GENERAL INFORMATION Name of the industry: Bharat Vijay Mills, Kalol, North Gujarat Address: Bharat Vijay Mills (Textile Division of Sintex Industries Ltd) Kalol (N.G.) 382721, India Phone: (91-2764)23731(6 lines), 20246, 20793 Fax: (91-2764) 20436 E-mail: [email protected] www.sintex-india.com Type of industry: Composite mill consisting of spinning, weaving and processing HEADS OF INSTITUTION: Chairman: Dineshbhai Patel Vice Chairman: Arunbhai Patel Managing Directors: Mr. Rahul Patel Mr. Amit Patel President Operation (production): Mr. Ashok Mehta Human Resource Manager: Mr. M. K. Chathurvedy

istration Manager: currently vacant. Marketing Manager: B.C. Sashidharan Procurement Manager Mr. R. K. Sharma CFO L.M. Rathore Organization Chart

Managing Directors

President Operations Spinning Weaving Yarn Dyeing Engineering Grey Folding Processing Finish Folding Lab SQC PPC Design Corduroy Ware House

President .

Personnel T. K. I. R. Public Relation Security Retails Shop Power Plant General istration Excise

President Marketing Marketing Despatch

HRD, IS, MIS

President Procurement Purchase Stores

CFO

Finance s Secretarial

ORGANISATIONAL HIERARCHY Managing Director President General Manager Deputy General Manager Senior Manager Manager Deputy Manager Senior Executive Trainee (Qualif: B. Sc/Diploma/B.Tech- Stipend Rs.4500 – 15,000) Worker (ITI)

PRODUCTION STATUS 56000 meters/day of shirting fabric 1.5 lakh meters of corduroy

PRODUCT On the product front, company has added various bottom weight qualities in singles as well as in doubles in addition to existing products like corduroy, yarn dyed and solid dyed shirti ng's which helps the company to supply widest product range coupled with small and large quantities of products to meet the demand of garment manufacturers/exporters. The product range also covers Men's and Ladies apparels and furnishing etc. l Corduroy for bottom-wear as well as shirting from 4 Wales to 21 Wales per inch l Yarn Dyed stripes, Checks; Fil-a-fil, Chambray's in plains as well as dobbies l Bottom-weights with different weaves End use of Products •

Men's Wear Top And Bottom

•

Formal As Well As Casual

•

Skirts

•

Jackets

•

Shorts

•

Furnishing

Count range In English(Ne)-12s,16s,20s,24s,30s,40s,50s,2/80s and 2/100s in 100% Cotton and in Poly/Cotton and Poly/Viscose Blends-40s,45s and 60s.

2 OPERATIONS DEPARTMENT

2. I. OPERATIONS DEPARTMENT 2. I. a. SPINNING The cotton fiber grows in the seedpod or boll, of the cotton plant. Each fiber is a single elongated cell that is flat, twisted, and ribbon like with a wide inner hollow (lumen).It is composed of about 90 percent cellulose and about 6 percent moisture; the remainder consists of natural impurities. The outer surface of the fiber is covered with a protective wax like coating which gives the fiber a somewhat adhesive quality. After this hydraulic pressing is done and cotton is been tested for the quality control. And then it has been sent for even moisture distribution. After all these processes this bale cotton gone to traders and textile mills receives these bale cotton from traders. As soon as the cotton arrives at the mill after ginning process in large bales weighing about 500 pounds (225 kg) each it is been kept for 24 hours. And then spinning process starts:-

Fan which distributes moisture

(Even moisture distribution is been done through the bale cotton)

(Stack of bales kept after hydraulic pressing)

(Bale cotton kept for 24 hrs rest before blending)

1. BLENDING STEPS: Cotton is ed from bales and then to apron. Apron moves cotton to blending apron. Blending apron has sharp spikes the raise cotton until part of it is knocked off by the roll. Some of the cotton stays on apron. The cotton knocked back by roll and continues to chum and blend until picked up again by apron. Another roll strips off cotton that was not knocked back by previous roll. Cotton falls on conveyor belt and is carried to next process. WHY IT’S BEEN DONE?It is necessary so as to obtain uniformity of fiber quality.

2. OPENING STEPS: Lint cotton falls on apron and es between feeder rolls to beater cylinder. The rapidly whirling beater blades take off small tufts of cotton, knock out trash, and loosen up the mass. The two screen rolls are made of screen material and air is sucked out of them by fan. This draws the cotton from beater and condenses it on the surface of the screen rolls from which it is taken and ed on by the small rolls. Air suction through cotton takes out dirt and trash. Conveyor belt es cotton to another type of beater. From beater the cotton es to a conveyor and is carried to (Cotton going through the

opening machine where the fibers are loosened)

picker. WHY IT’S BEEN DONE?-

It is necessary in order to loosen hard lumps of fiber and disentangle them; cleaning is required to remove trash such as dirt, leaves, burrs, and any remaining seeds. Mechanical bale pickers pluck thin, even layers of the matted fibers from each of a predetermined number of bales in turn and deposit them into a

hopper. The fiber is mixed and ed to an opener. As the mass of fiber es through the opener, cylinders with protruding fingers open up the limp and free the trash. The kind and number of cylinders or beaters, employed depend upon the type of cotton that is being processed. The commonly used porcupine beater revolves about 1000 revolutions per minute. As the cotton is opened, trash falls through a series of grid bars. When the cotton emerges from the opener, it still contains small tufts with about two-thirds of the trash. It may be conveyed as lap. GBR- Here the cottons are fed for homogenous mixtures and for removing dirts.MPM-8 – it has got 8 chambers. Generally used for homogenous mixture of fibers like while harvesting some cotton are from matured plants and some are not. So that it will affect the fabric. So, after homogenous mixing all will be the same.

(Mixing of diff cotton bales)

(Formation of lap)

(Laps formed)

Here fibers are rolled into roller at the same time they are pressed also. Time taken to roll one lap:40s Count

600 sec

50s Count

666 sec

20s Count

500 sec

3. CARDING PROCESS: Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining impurities must be removed, the fibers must be disentangles, and they must be straightened. The straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel CARDING. The work is done by carding machine. The lap is ed through a beater section and drawn o rapidly revolving cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes slowly moves concentrically above this cylinder. As the cylinder rotates, the cotton is pulled by the cylinder through the small gap under the brushes; the teasing action removes the remaining trashes, disentangles the fibers , and arranges them in a relatively parallel manner in form of a thin web. This web is drawn through a funnel shaped device that molds it into a round rope like mass called card sliver. Card sliver produces carded yarns or carded cottons serviceable for inexpensive cotton fabrics.

(Lap is been fed into carding machine)

(Carding process taking place)

(Card sliver formed)

STEPS: The lap from pucker unrolls and feed roll es cotton licker in roll (covered with saw toothed wire).The licker in roll es fiber against cleaner bars and gives it up to large cylinder which es between the thousands of fine wires on surface of cylinder and on flats. The cotton follows large cylinder to doffer cylinder, which remove lint from large cylinder. The doffer comb vibrates against doffer cylinder and takes lint off in a filmy web that es through condenser rolls, coiler head, and then into can. The sliver may be ed from one can to combing for further removal of foreign matter and parallelization of fiber or directly to drawing. 4. DOUBLING PROCESS: After carding, several slivers are combined. This results in a relatively narrow lap of compactly placed staple fibers. The compactness of these fibers permits this cotton stock to be attenuated, or drawn out, to a sliver of smaller diameter without falling apart.

5. COMBING PROCESS: When the fiber is intended for fine yarns, the sliver is put through an additional straightening called COMBING. In this operation, fine-toothed combs continue straightening the fibers until they are arranged with such a high degree of parallelism that the short fibers, called noils, are combed out and completely separated out from the longer fibers. The combing process forms a comb sliver made of the longest fibers, which, in turn, produces a smoother and more even yarn. This operation as much as 25% of the original card sliver; thus almost one fourth of the raw cotton becomes waste. The combing process, therefore, is identified with consumer goods of better quality. Since long-staple yarns produce stronger, smoother, and more serviceable fabrics, quality cotton goods carry labels indicating that they are made from combed yarns or combed yarns.

(Combing process)

6. DRAWING PROCESS: The combining of several fibers for the drawing, or drafting, process eliminates irregularities that would cause too much variation if the slivers were pulling through singly. The draw frame has several pairs of rollers, each advanced set of which revolves at a progressively faster speed. This action pulls the staple lengthwise over each other, thereby producing longer and thinner slivers. After several stages of drawing out, the condensed sliver is taken to the slubber, where rollers similar to those in the drawing frame draw out the cotton further. Here the slubbing is ed to the spindles, where it is given its first twist and is then wound on bobbins. STEPS: Her six cans that were filled at cards feed each drawing from delivery. The spoons are connected so that if any one of the six slivers from can should break, the machine automatically stops. This prevents making uneven yarn later. Each of four set of rolls runs successively faster than preceding set. The last set runs approximately six times as the first set; consequently, sliver coming out is the same size as each one of six going in. but is attenuated to six times the length per minute. The sliver is neatly coiled again in roving can by coiler head. The sliver is now much more uniform and fibers much more nearly parallel. The sliver is now ready for roving frames.

(Drawing process-6 cans of comb sliver been fed)

(After drawing process)

(Inner arrangement-helical)

(Cover)

(Spring + helical structure)

7. ROVING PROCESS: These bobbins are placed on the roving frame, where further drawing out and twisting take place until the cotton stock is about the diameter of a pencil lead. There are two stages of roving; intermediate and fine. The operations are identical, but each machine yields a finer product than the stock is received. Roving is the final product of several drawing out operations. It is a preparatory stage for the final insertion of twist. To this point, only enough twist has been given the stock to hold the fibers together. Roving has not tensile strength; it will break apart easily with any easy pull. STEPS: The can of sliver from drawing frames is fed between three sets of drafting rolls. Each following set of rolls runs faster than preceding sets. This pulls sliver and thins it down, making fibers nearly parallel. The spindle turns flyer and is driven at a constant speed. The front rolls (nearest flyer) are set at a sped that gives strand coming out of the rolls a predetermined number of turns of twist per inch as it moves along between rolls and flyer. The bobbin is driven by a source separate from gear that drives spindle and flyer. The bobbin is regulated to turn automatically at a speed sufficiently faster than flyer, which causes roving to wind on bobbin at same rate as it is delivered by front roll.

(Bobbin)

(Speed frame-back side)

(Speed frame-front view-120 bobbins)

8. SPINNING PROCESS: The roving, on bobbins, is placed in the spinning frame, where it es through several sets of rollers running at successively higher rates of speed and is finally drawn out to yarn of the size desired. Spinning machines are of two types; ring frame and mule frame. The ring frame is faster process, but produces a relatively coarse yarn. for very fine yarns, such as worsted, the mule frame is required because of its slow, intermittent operation. The ring frame, which is general in use, is more suitable for the manufacture of cotton yarns in mass production. Its hundreds of spindles, whirling thousands of revolutions per minute, and its constant spinning action provide a fast operation. The ring spinning frame completes the manufacture of yarn (1) by drawing out the roving (2) by inserting twist, and (3) by winding the yarn on bobbins-all in one operation. The bobbins of yarn are removed for such processing as may be desired; for example, the yarn may be reeled into skeins for bleaching or may be wound on cheeses, or spools, for ultimate weaving. STEPS: The principle of spinning is same as that used in roving except that the operation is more refined and a ring and traveler are used instead of the flyer. From bobbin roving is fed between set of drafting rolls to draw strand down to its final desired size. The spindle turns bobbin at a constant speed. The front set of rolls is adjusted to deliver yarn at a speed sufficient to insert desired mount of twist as strand moves along. The traveler glides freely around ring. The tension caused by drag of traveler causes yarn to wind on bobbin at same rate of speed as it delivered by rolls.

(Ring Frame)

SPINNING PROCESS FLOW CHART CARDED

COMBED

POLY/COT

BALE OPENING

BALE OPENING

BALE OPENING OF 100%POLYESTER

STACK MIXING

STACK MIXING

STACK MIXING WITH TINT COLOR

BLOW ROOM

PRE OPENING

BLOW ROOM

CARD

BLOW ROOM

CARD

BREAKER DRAW FRAME

CARD

FINISHED DRAW FRAME

PRE COMB

SPEED FRAME

LAP FORMING

RING FRAME

WINDING

WINDING

COMBER

POST COMB

DRAW FRAME AGE OF POLYESTER DRAW FRAME BLEND AGE P+C

P/C BLEND 2nd AGE

P/C BLEND FINAL AGE (3rd )

PARALLEL WINDNG

SPEED FRAME

WARPING

T.F.O

SPEED FRAME

RING FRAME

WINDING

RING FRAME

WINDING

WINDING

PARALLEL WINDING

PARALLEL WINDING

T.F.O

T.F.O

WINDING

PROCESS CONTROL PARAMETER MIXING MAKE

12S TRUMAC

20S TRUMAC

(m/c form) SHELLROLL

New 11

New 11

Old 11

New 11

Old 9

(R.P.M) LAP WEIGHT LAP LENGTH GRAMMO

20 44.4 450

20 56 400

20 61 330

20 66.6 300

13.2 90 300

METER TOLERANCE

+ or – 300gm

+ or –

+ or –

+ or –

+ or – 300gm

300gm

300gm

300gm

LIMIT

40S 50S TRUMAC TRUMAC

YARN QUALITY PARAMETERS 1. CV% of count

SYNTHETIC LR

2. CV% of strength 3 .C.S.P 4 .U% & imperfection ( thin, thick, neps) & yarn hairiness. 5. Classimat faults

o

Raw material faults

o

16 class faults(A to D)

o

Long thick faults(E+F+G)

o

Long thin faults(H+I)

o

Objectionable fault(A4+B4+C3+C4+D3+D4)

6. T P I 7. Single yarn strength (gm) 8. R.K.M 9. CV% of single yarn strength 10. CV% of elongation END USES

o

Yarn dyed fabric

o

Corduroys pile fabric

o

Bottom weights fabrics

o

Dobby fabrics & poplins

NAME OF THE MACHINE

MAKE

INSTALLED

NO.OF

YEAR

MACHINE

1.BLOW ROOM Trutzschler blow room line

TRUMAC

1992

1

with two finisher scutchers New trutzschler blow room

TRUMAC

2000

1

line with one finisher scutcher Old synthetic blow room line

Laxmi-Reiter

1978

1

with one scutcher Pre filter & fine filter unit CVT – 3 Roving waste opener Bonda waste opener Bale braker Mixing bale opener(MBO)

TRUMAC TRUMAC TATHAMS TATHAMS PLATTS Laxmi-Reiter

1998 1999 1960 1960 1946 1989

1 1 1 1 1 1

1997-98 1998 2000 1998 2000

8 4 4 1 1

1991-92 1995-96 1998-99 1994 1997 2002

4 4 6

2.CARDING Trutzschler DK-740 card Trutzschler DK-780 cards Trutzschler DK-780 cards Waste collection system R.S.G grinder complete

TRUMAC TRUMAC TRUMAC TRUMAC PERFECT

3.COMBING High speed comber E7/4(old) High speed comber E7/4 High speed comber LK-250 Lap former E 2/4A Lao former E2/4A High speed comber LK-250

Laxmi-Reiter Laxmi-Reiter Laxmi-Reiter Laxmi-Reiter Laxmi-Reiter Laxmi-Reiter

1 1 2

4.DRAWING HS draw frame DO/6 model HS draw frame patex – 720 HS RSB – 1 draw frame HS RSB – D – 30 draw frame

Laxmi-Reiter Patex

1989 1992

2 4

RIETER RIETER

1998 1999

2 2

1992

4

5.SPEED FRAME Speed frame TS-15 model

TEXTOOL

Speed frame TS-15 model Speed frame LF-1400 Speed frame LF-1400A Speed frame LF-1400A

TEXTOOL Laxmi-Reiter Laxmi-Reiter Laxmi-Reiter

1994 1989 1997-98 2000

1 4 2 1

1989 1992-93

4 50

6.RING FRAME Ring frame MEI Rig frame DJ-50N MODEL

MEI TEXTOOL

7.WINDING/DOUBLING/T.F.O Parallel winding m/c Parallel winding m/c Super doublers T.F.O

KAMITSU KAMITSU NMM VEEJAY

1964 1971 1978 1999-2000

1 1 1 3

LAKSHMI SME – 3

BLOW ROOM LINE Cot mounting m/c Cot mounting m/c Cot mounting m/c Cot buffing TRUMAC m/c DK 780 CARD Cot buffing m/c S draft TRUMAC DK 740 Cot bercolising m/c

C&C DRONSFIELDS VIRAJKA RSBDRG SABAR E 7/4 DENIMACCOM BER H.SAGAR

1972 1960 1998 SLIVER LAP 1980 1992 1989

1 1 1 1 1 1

P.T.DRG

E 7/4 DEPARTMENT LAYOUT OF SPINNING LK 250 COM BER MIXING ROOM

T 151 SPEED FRAME

MEI RING FRAME (12)

WMM SUPER SPINNER RING FRAME(6)

T.T.PJ 50N RING FRAME (34)

T.T. DJ50N RING FRAME(16)

WEAVING SECTION

SPINNING OFFICE

DOUBLING MACHINES

T F O

KAMITSU WINDING

LR GS SPEED FRAME

WINDING DEPARTMENT

L F 1400 SPEED FRAME

L F 1400 S F

E 7/4 &L.K.250 COMBER SLIVER LAP

SME – 2 7.ROLL SHOP SECTION SME - 1

L.K.250 COMBER

BLOW ROOM LINE

2. I. B YARN DYEING When dyeing is done after the fiber has been spun into yarn, it is described yarn dyeing. There are several methods of yarn dyeing. The purpose is to have the dyestuff penetrate to the fibers in the core of the yarn; this is similar to the penetration of the fibers in stock dyeing. Cloth made of dyed yarns is called yarn dyed. Yarn dyed fabrics are usually deeper and richer in color. Yarn dyed fabrics intended for laundering must be quite colorfast, or bleeding could occur. The primary reason for dyeing in the yarn form is to create interesting checks, stripes, and plaids with different –colored yarns in the weaving process. Chambrays, for example, are usually woven with a colored warp and white filling. Other combinations of different colored yarns are checked gingham, shepherd’s check, plaid, seersucker, and heather mixtures.

Yarns can be dyed in the form of skeins or packages. Package-dyed yarns are more suitable for woven fabrics, whereas skein-dyed yarns as more suitable for knits and carpets where a fuller bulk is more desirable. However, package dyeing can be performed on a much larger scale and with more uniform results. Consequently, it is the more commonly-used method. PACKAGE DYEING MACHINES In these enclosed machines where dyeing under pressure can take place, the dye-liquor is circulated through wound packages of yarn until the dye is evenly exhausted. The yarn is wound onto perforated tubes or springs, or other types of holders and the packages formed are then mounted onto a perforated rod (spindle) or tube. In a commercial dyeing machine seven hundred packages are tightly packed on a number of spindles which are arranged vertically on a hollow base (the carrier).After loading, the carrier is dropped into a seating in the dyeing tank, through which the dye-liquor is circulated. The dye-liquor is pumped through the packages in either direction, according to need.

Carrier

Spindle Yarn package

Main tank

(Carrier inserting into the main tank)

These type of machines are also used, with the proper modification, to dye loose fibers, tops and sliver, and warp yarns. In dyeing warp yarns, a single perforated cylinder of the yarns fits into the seating of the dye tank. Packages that are too loosely wound may collapse during the dyeing process. However, packages that are too tightly wound may interface with the circulation of the dyeliquor. In any case, the packages must be wound as uniformly as possible. Sudden pressures changes should be avoided to prevent possible distortion of the packages. Therefore, newer package dyeing machines have the capability of controlling both flow and differential pressure. Many times the packages are Carriage covered by a protective bag which acts as a filter to prevent deposits of insoluble dye and other impurities on the yarn. Modern package dyeing machines are made to operate at low liquor ratios. This is achieved by eliminating the external expansion tank. MAIN STEPS INVOLVED IN YARN DYEING Yarn dyeing is done in mainly two stages:1) DEVELOPMENT

o Customer gives sample with its all specifications like count, color etc. The sample given is generally known as eskloon (handkerchief shape).

o It is then checked in lab. There they will check it in a particular design like how many threads they need.

o Then in hang form dyeing take place

o Approval from buyer. records of number of chemicals and recipe kept o If its not correct they will re-produce or re-process. But if the quantity of shade required is very less like 2 warp yarns in long intervals then shade variation in the cone can be tolerated.

o If approved go for bulk order 2) BULK ORDER

o Production Planning Department takes charge of bulk order. Depending on load, capacity, constraint, date is fixed.

o CYCLE OF YARN DYEING PROCESS 2.1 Receives soft package from winding department

o Yarn packages from winding department been received. o There is a spring attached to the yarn package which helps in shrinking the yarn package.

SPRING

o Uniform dyeing not possible if we use paper corn winded Yarn. o So we generally use spring winding so that more yarn can be wounded as well as gives uniform winding.

o It basically helps in loading process. o Recipe is been made according to development stage. o As per availability of recipe and P.P.C department dyeing is been done. 2.2 Loading yarn packages to carrier

o These packages are put in a carriage in compressed form. o The main principle behind this is mechanism of compression. There is a pressing device which compresses the packages.

o There is long cylindrical rod –spindle in which spring wounded yarns are been kept. These rods have small pores in it which allows movement of dyeing chemicals in and out during dyeing process.

o In each spindle there can be maximum 11 yarn packages can be kept. But it again depends on compression mechanism.

o Compression is done according to :-design :-density package :- vessel height in which these yarns are been dyed.

o These spindles are attached to a carrier. In one 400 kg carrier there can be almost 61 spindles.

2.3 Dyeing

o

The dyeing machine consist of::-Microprocessor It depends on light, medium, dark, reactive dyes. All details are feeded

onto the processor and locked. as per the requirement one program is used. :-Closing tank In this chemicals are been put. And tube es from this tank to main tank through which chemicals through. :-Main tank It’s the main tank in which carrier is been put.

o

First they put the carriage in the main tank in which 900 liters of water is been filled.

o

Then chemical is put into chamber which later goes to closing tank.

o

Programming done-according to chemicals, water, temperature

o

Water coming out from bottom of spindle and spreads out.

o

There are mainly two stages;-in –out and out-in

o

9-10 hrs is taken for dyeing 1 carrier.

o

Capacity is 5-6 tones/day

After dyeing process almost double amount of water is present inside the package. Then water comes down due to gravity. There is another system known as automatic dosing system. In this chemicals are put in different tank according to color we want program is been feeded and the chemicals are taken automatically from these tanks and recipe is made.

(The rod is made of steel and no holes present n it so that it controls the movement of water in and through.)

In-out Out-in Porous spindle

Dummy spindle

In same vessel we can have different capacity. There are carriers known as dummy carriers. These carriers consist of dummy spindles. Dummy spindles are plain rod which doesn’t have holes in them so that when dyeing process takes place water is not wasted in and out through these spindles. So these rods block the movement of water in and out through the spindle. Example;Suppose in a 100kg m/c we want only 80 kg yarns to be dyed. We have to put all the spindles but we cant waste 20 kg of dyed yarn. And if we use the simple porous spindles then most of the colored water will try to come out of that spindle because the pressure applied is very less in those spindles. So, variation in color may arise. In that situation we use dummy spindles which is covered with the steel for the equal distribution of pressure of water in all the spindles. And it also helps out in shade variation problem. 2.4 Hydro extractor After dyeing yarn contain almost double amount of water. This is been removed through a hydro extractor. It consists of a l oading device in which yarns are kept. Then this is put into a

chamber. Inside this chamber the load rotate in a speed of 1700rpm. Time taken is 10 minutes. Due to the centrifugal force water comes out. 8 yarn package in 1 floor Total 2 floors present 2.5 R.F.Dryer (Radio Frequency Dryer) After hydro extracting there is still some amount of water present inside the yarn. Through radio frequency further drying is been done.I n this dryer machine electrodes are present, which create an electromagnetic field.H+ and O- polar molecules are been produced.This start vibrating and create energy. Therefore H+ and O- get split. In this temperature has to be controlled and also height between these electrodes and yarns have to be maintained. Electrode

283.0mm

Conv.speed

5.7 m/h

Anode Ja

11.7 A

Grid Ig

2.4 A

After the drying process, the yarn packages are winded in a cone, like 2 yarn packages are winded in one cone to check for the shade variation among different yarn packages. TYPES OF DEFECTS 1. Shade matching If the shade is not matching this can be rectified by reprocessing it. 2. Levelness of package From 2 cheese to 1 cone Dyes generally used are vat, reactive dyes. Colors used:-

⇒ IND BROWN BR ⇒ IND GREY 4B ⇒ INDOLIVE T ⇒ IND OLIVE GREEN B ⇒ NOV BROWN 2G ⇒ NOV PURPLE LR ⇒ NOV BROWN P ⇒ NOV OLIVE R

RED DYES

⇒ NOV YELLOW 5G ⇒ NOV JADE GREEN XBN ⇒ YELLOW 3RT ⇒ IND NAV BLUE VH ⇒ IND BLUE BC ⇒ IND BLACK AC ⇒ BLACK BLWUWU

⇒ CRIMSON HEXL ⇒ YELLOW HEXL ⇒ NAVY HEXL ⇒ BLUE HERD ⇒ BLUE HEXL ⇒ BLUE HEGL ⇒ RED HEXL

REACTIVE DYES

2. I. C. WEAVING Cotton yarn can be made into cloth by knitting or weaving but weaving is by far the most important and the only one used here. Weaving is carried out on a loom where warp yarns run lengthways from back to front. Using a shuttle, weft yarn is threaded widthwise. In early times, using a hand-loom, it was found to be much difficult to raise alternate warp threads and lower the others. The weft could then be carried between them in a straight line. The position of the warp threads was then reversed and the weft sent back in the opposite direction.

PREPARATORY PROCESS FOR WEAVING: The yarns as manufactured and packaged after spinning are not in the optimum condition to enter the looms directly so as to produce fabrics. Package size, build and other factors make it necessary for the yarn to be further processed to prepare it to be

handled efficiently during fabric manufacturing. The yarn package as it comes from spinning must be repackaged to meet the particular needs and demands of fabric manufacturing. Various steps for preparatory process of yarn for weaving are as follows: WINDING (WARP WINDING AND WEFT WINDING)

WARPING

SIZING

DENTING AND DRAWING-IN

1.) WINDING

WEAVING

OBJECTIVE: To transfer yarn from spinner bobbin to another suitable package for warping machine. REQUIREMENTS: •

The fault level in the yarn must be reduced to an acceptable level.

•

The yarn must not be damaged in the winding process.

•

The package size, shape and build must be suitable for particular end use.

•

The package size should be controlled to meet the particular economic requirement. MACHINERY:

i) AUTOCONERS: These are machines used to remove impurities, irregularities, and imperfections like thick or thin places, slubs, nebs or loose fibers from the yarn

obtained from spinning. There is a special feature called ‘auto-doffing’ in all of these. In this mechanism, after the yarn package finishes, another package automatically drops and the winding process continues. Doffing capacity = 60 doffs per hour. Weight of the yarn = yarn length/ (1694* yarn count)

There are three types of autoconers used in the winding department: a.)

MURATEC MACHINE CONER 138 : Separation of electrics, pneumatics and

mechanics No. of machines = 2 No. of spindles in each machine=60 b.) SCHLAFHORST AUTOCONER 238 : Single( individual) spindle machine •

Automatic splicing.

•

Uniform tension

•

Electrode sensors are present No. of machines = 2 No. of spindles in each machine=60

c.)

SCHLAFHORST AUTOCONER 338 : Sensor-controlled winding process.

This is the latest machine with the following features: •

Uniform yarn tension.

• Ecopack: Exact length measurement. Accuracy is measured in of micro and millimeters. • Variopack: For stretchable yarns, to achieve uniform tension without destroying the shape.

• Cradle pressure: Proper compact package to maintain uniform density. • Speed: Fastest machine fully computerized. No. of machines = 2 No. of spindles in each machine=60 ii) SAMPLE WINDING MACHINE: VERSA WINDER Here, the length of yarn to be winded can be feeded and after the length is achieved, the machine automatically stops. Number of machines = 1 Number of winders in each machine = 6 GAS YARN SINGEING MACHINE: Every yarn has a different level of hairiness. To avoid this, yarn singeing is done. A mixture of certain volume of gas and air at a certain speed and temperature is used in the burner. As the yarn es through the burner, only the protruding fibers get singed. Yarn singeing is generally done for stripe qualities, where the ground is of the same color. TYPES OF YARN PACKAGES: Cone : this comprises of one or more threads, which are laid very nearly parallel to layers already existing in the package. It may be tapered in both sides and package weight varies from 1-2 kgs. Cheese : This consists of a single thread, which is laid in the package at an appreciable helix angle so that the layers cross one another to yield stability. It is generally in cylindrical form and weight varies from 1-2 kgs.

2. WARPING OBJECTIVE: To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns that can be collected in a sheet form and wound on to a warper’s beam.

There are two types of warping methods followed: i) DIRECT WARPING (BEAM WARPING): It is used for long runs of grey yarns, single color yarns

and simple patterns of colored

yarns. It can be used to make warp sheets. The total amount of colored yarns involved is less than 15% of the total. Direct warping machines are not computerized. No. of direct warping machines = 3(JUPITER) Suction devices are provided in between warping machines which suck all the unwanted cotton fibers flying. ii)

SECTIONAL

WARPING

(PATTERN

WARPING): It is used for short runs especially for fancy pattern

fabrics where the amount of colored

yarn is more than 15% of the total. Sectional warping is a quick way to warp a loom with a sectional warp beam and is best suited for very long warps (15 yards or more), any size or style of yarn and 2 inch repeats (most sections on a sectional warp beam are 2" wide). It is not very well suited for mixed warps with many or random yarn changes. It also requires more space and equipment than other warping methods - spool rack with bobbins, bobbin winder, sley hook and a tension box or warping paddle/guide. STEPS FOR SECTIONAL WARPING: i.

Warp is winded onto spools (bobbins) -

One spool per each warp end per 2" of

warp. Only one section of sectional warp beam is winded at a time. Therefore the spool rack should hold the number of bobbins of warp needed to fill one section of beam at the desired number of ends per

inch. If the weaving is set at 12 e.p.i, and the sectional warp beam sections are 2", 24 bobbins of warp are needed in the spool rack (2" x 12 e.p.i. = 24 warp ends, hence 24 bobbins per 2" section). ii.

The spool rack is positioned behind the loom. iii. The warp is centered and number of warp sections is counted. For a 28" wide fabric, the center 14 sections are used (28" divided by 2" sections = 14 sections).

iv.

A cord is tied to the warp beam in each of the sections used.

v.A warp end is threaded from each bobbin through the tension box or warping paddle. The tension box or guide should be attached to the back beam to help in winding the warp ends onto each section with even tension. The width of the spread in the tension box reed or guide/paddle should be slightly less than 2" to allow for the width of the pegs on the sectional warp beam. There may be a need to put more than one end per dent or paddle hole to achieve this. vi. The bundle of warp ends is knotted as close to the end as possible. vii. Beginning at either of the outside sections of the specified sections, the cord is tied from the warp beam to the knotted warp ends using a clove hitch knot. The tension box or paddle is positioned on the back beam directly above the section to be filled. Note: the bobbins on the spool rack are heavier at the beginning of the warping process. This weight makes the first sections tighter than the later ones. It is best to have the tighter sections on the outside edges. Starting at one side and filling sections in order straight across the beam will produce fabric with warps tight on one end and loose on the other. Similarly, starting at the center and working towards the edges will produce fabric with rippled edges.

viii.

The beam is turned, watching carefully to see that the section fills evenly. If the warp piles up unevenly, position of the tension box is adjusted. Each revolution of the beam is counted as first section is filled. All the other sections should be filled with the same number of turns to avoid tension problems in the warp.

ix. When the section is full, a piece of masking tape is placed across the warp ends to keep them in order. The tape takes the place of a cross. The warp is then cut one inch beyond the tape. The tape is pinned into the filled section to secure it. x.

The tension box or paddle is moved to the other outside section and filled. xi. When all the sections are full, pins are removed from each section and warp is pulled over the back beam toward the shafts. A long stick is laid across the width of the loom and tied to the sides of the loom to secure. The warp sections are taped to this stick. xii.

Thread the loom is threaded as for warping back to front (heddles are threaded; the reed is slayed and tied onto the front apron rod). MACHINERY: The sectional warping machine consists of a drum which can slightly shift horizontally as the sections of yarn are being rotated on it. Length of the drum is marked on it. The warp yarns comes from a predefined arrangement of cones as per the color and design of the fabric. Length and width of each section of yarn is calculated and each section is warped in a slanting manner on the drum to avoid intermingling of sections. A lace is introduced and tied at the end hooks of the drum after each section of yarns is separated by a rod. After all the sections are winded on the drum, this beam is than winded on to a beam by the help of a roller. This beam is called the warp beam. The sectional warping machines are fully computerized. Creel capacity = 672 Hence, no. of sections = 672/ (no. of ends per section)

No. of sectional warping machines = 9 (PRASHANT GAMATEX, SUCKER MULLER AND JUPITER) FEATURES: •

Separate warping & beaming structure

Separate warping & beaming structure ensures smooth vibration free operation at high speed as well as at higher winding tensions. This division into units provides greater processing flexibility such as. i.

Allowing the machine to be operated with single or multiple creel for higher productivity in respect to capital investment.

ii.

Easy to reach the warping reel from every position during the different working phases.

iii.

Facility to add the additional unit like waxing etc.

iv.

Extremely convenient in operation and maintenance. •

Hydraulic Disc Brakes

To ensure gentle but extremely effective stopping of the machine, disc brakes are provided on both sides of the drum, New Caliper braking device having sideways installation facilitate easy servicing and settings of brake liners. •

Constant Beaming Tension

Most important and high technological feature only offered by 'Prashant Gamatex' to produce perfect weavers beam to get optimum efficiency for automatic looms. Proportional control of the brakes in our high tech Hydraulic power pack with the help of advance electronics, monitors constant tension of the yarn sheet during beaming. •

Digital / Graphic On Line Display for desired process data

Intelligent Operational (I.O.P.) having large size Digital display or graphic display is provided for indicating total length, partial length, No. of section, section width, rotation as well as all the messages and fault finding indications in case of machine stoppage. •

Solid steel drum - Dynamically balanced.

•

Frequency variable A/C drives

•

Hydraulic doffing & donning device

•

Auto section advancing

•

Constant warping and beaming speed

•

Lost end memory & auto stop during beaming

Broken and lost end during warping can be memorized. Machine stops automatically before lost end position during beaming to trace and tie the lost end to complete warp. This increases the overall efficiency of high speed looms. All lost end data can be monitored on screen at a time and also can take printout of the same. •

On Site Programming Facility

The design is inbuilt to memorize atleast 100 sets of different programs, which can be easily called back and start the machine without any further delay •

Individually Controlled Tensioner Type model Perfect warp beam can only be produced when tension of each individual end is absolutely constant, irrespective of warping speed, package diameter, or the types of yarn, we offer high tech solution to meet all these demand for quality conscious customers.

3. SIZING OBJECTIVES: •

To improve strength and abrasion resistance of the warp yarns by causing the fibers to adhere together.

• To make smooth and to lubricate the warp yarns so that there is minimum friction where they rub together various parts in the weaving process. In the weaving process, the warp yarns are subjected to rubbing and chafing against various metallic parts of the looms as they are threaded through backrest, drop wires, harness and reed. They constantly are rubbed together during shedding. The warp yarns are subjected to tension constantly as well as intermittently during letoff, take-up, shedding and beat up. These two reasons lead to increase the end breakage level during weaving, which should be minimized. SIZING INGREDIENTS: Adhesives: Modified starch (texoplast), fabric glue, thin volume starch, Potato starch, starch from corn, wheat, rice, etc., Carboxyl methyl cellulose (CMC), Poly-vinyl alcohol (PVA), Polyester resin (acts as binder). Lubricants: Mineral waxes, oils, vegetable waxes and oils, animal fats Additives: Salicylic acid, zinc chloride, phenol, emulsifier, softeners, Polyethylene glycol CHEMICAL 16Te Texoplast PVA Falixlose Seycofilm M. Tallow Pep 1000 LV 40 Water

40 6 25 4 5 100 1 15’’

1’’= 37.75 litres

40COL 40 50 6 25 6 5 100 ___ 14.5’’

GREY 50 10 25 6 5 100 ___ 14.5’’

50 70 10 ___ 12 5 100 ___ 14’’

60 60 10 ___ 15 5 100 ___ 14’’

70 50 15 ___ 15 5 100 ___ 14’’

20 20 ___ 60 4 5 100 ___ 14’’

16OE

Sample

70 10 20 6 4 100 ___ 17’’

sizing ___ 8 ___ 3 3 ___ ___ 100

MACHINERY: 1) SUCKER MULLER –HACOBA with PLC device( programmable logic control) No. of machines = 1

2) JUPITER ( No. of machines = 1)

OPERATOR INTERFACE PLC BASED SERVO DRIVE CONTROLLED MULTI-CYLINDER SIZING MACHINE ( JUPITOR).

3) AMBICA ( No. of machines = 1) No PLC device is present in this machine. Sizing machine SE – C has one pair of squeezing rollers. Sizing machine SD – C has two pairs of squeezing rollers. TECHNICAL DETAILS: 1.)

FEEDING DEVICE: Obtain a good point of grip for the warp.

This comprises of the following parts:

Pressure roller: This has two main functions:



Stretch measurement and pulse generation. 

Carrier roller:carries the warp yarns forward



Floating roller: determines the drawing force between carrier roller and first pair of squeezing rollers. Measured value is indicated on the scale. Control bridge : protects the entire arrangement. The pneumatically



operated bridge automatically follows the roller movements. Rotary switch : lifts the pressure roller off the carrier roller



pneumatically to allow knots or the feed aid to be pulled through when the warp is being fed in. It also moves the rollers back together.  Guide roller: serves the pupose of length measurement in cases where sizing continues filament yarn.  less switch: Attached to a roller bearing. Pulses are transmitted to a second measuring instrument (meter counter or stretch measuring device) located elsewhere. 2) SQUEEZING ROLLERS MATERIAL- Rubber. These rollers should be brushed down with hot water containing a desizing agent before long periods out of use to wash out all traces of size from the pores. 

The agent reaction time must be kept short to rule out solubilization of the roller surface. Immediately afterwards, the cleaning agent is neutralized and removed with water.



When regrinding one of the bottom squeeze rollers on a sizing machine with two squeezers(SD-C), the roller with the largest external diameter must be installed in the last squeezer.



Difference between two sqeezers in the first and second roller should not exceed 0.2 mm.



Three type of grindings: rough, normal and fine.

The rollers should be stored at 20 degree centigrade in a dark room and should be



lifted only by journals. Stuffing box packing: ‘Kevlar Aramide’ packing code is used. If tightened too



securely, i) Packing cord coated with Teflon on the backing will burn and sealing effect can be lost. ii) Can lead to damage of bearings. Automatic squeezing roller control ( PLC) : The pneumatic load on the squeezing roller is increased and decreased according to the operating statuses of the machine. Squeezing pressure is usually set lower for standstill and creep speed than for normal speed. The squeezing pressure control facility allows the squeezing roller pressure to be adjusted depending on warp speed. The programmable logic control device helps in checking the amount of size imparted to a single yarn. It measures the degree of viscosity of each individual yarn and sends a signal to the squeeze roller. If the amount of size imparted is more, the pressure of squeeze roller has to be increased and vice-a-versa. FQ2

V2

Squeezing FQ1 Pressure ( KN)FQ2

V2

FQ1 Speed (m /min)

3) SIZING MACHINE HEATING AND STEAM LINES

Maximum permissible steam pressure = 3.5 bar If the customer wishes to work with lower steam pressures, a separate pressure reducing valve and a safety valve must be installed. There is an electro- pneumatic temperature control system.



Heating and temperature control: Heating is done by two systems: i) Direct: By injecting steam directly into the size in the preliminary and main troughs by way of distributor tubes. A condensate drain is used to prevent the size being watered down. ii) Indirect: By injecting steam into the double wall of the size trough and thus heating a water bath, which in turn heats the size. Temperature of size is measured by a PT 100 temperature sensor in the main trough. Temperature is regulated by means of a pneumatically controlled valve.



Temperature restriction of indirect heating: Sensor of the control valve is installed in the expanded cross section of pressure compensation line. Water temperature = 80 degree centigrade Size temperature = 70 degree centigrade If internal heating temperature is too high, size can become baked on trough walls.

4) PRELIMINARY TROUGH CONDENSATE LINE The condensate must be able to drain off at zero pressure. It consists of: i) Double walled water bath. ii) Sensor of temperature control valve. iii)Condensate and pressure compensation line 5) LEVEL MONITOR IN MAIN TROUGH The liquid level in the main trough is monitored with a bead tube. If the level falls too low, the system shuts down.

MEASURING AND CONTROL DEVICES FOR DEGREE OF SIZING

If degree of sizing is too high or low, risk of thread breaks is increased. Degree of sizing(%) = [Sa(%) * K(%)] / (100%) ; where Sa = Sizing liquor take up. It is the ratio of the liquor taken up to the weight of untreated yarn. K = Concentration. It is measured by a refractometer.

REFRACTOMETER

FACTORS AFECTING DEGREE OF SIZING: i) Concentration ii) Viscosity of sizing liquor iii)Temperature of sizing liquor iv) Speed v) Squeezing pressure ENERGY CONNECTIONS 

Steam pressure: Operating pressure = 0.5 to 3.5 bar



Steam quantity: SE-C = 50 kg/h SD-C = 80 kg/h



Condensate : must drain without back press.



Air pressure : Maximum Operating pressure = 10 bar

MEASURING CUP

With squeezing pressure upto:60 KN => 6,5 bar 100KN => 8,5 bar Air quantity:



SE-C = 1.15 cubic mt/h (intake) SE-D = 1.65 cubic mt/h Air must be free of water, dust and oil. WAXING DEVICE (PVD) This is used to apply various oils or waxes to the warp after sizing. It is fitted at the beginning of the dry splitting zone immediately after the dancing roller, where the warp is still undivided. This device consists of: i) A melting funnel for solid media (waxes). ii) A tray to contain the lubricant: a) Tray is made of stainless steel and protected from fiber fly and other impurities with cover plates. b) The tray has a heating coil for internal heating. c) Wax temperature in tray is controlled by a temperature controller and a pneumatic valve. d) Lubricant can only be removed via drain cock iii) An applicator roll: a) Made of stainless steel with a specially treated surface. b) Driven in properly to the sizing machine’s warp speed by a frequency – regulated

3- phase a.c. motor with a worm gear.

iv) if liquid media (oils) are used, it is fed via a transparent bottle with a capacity of 10 liters. Sizing machine layout plan:

4. DENTING AND DRAWING – IN All the warp threads have to be threaded through the heald eyelet and its gap in the reed prior to weaving. The heald is the part of the loom that is used to move the warp threads up and down. The threads through eyelets on the heald. For a simple weave pattern alternate eyelets are moved up to raise the corresponding warp threads, and the threads between are moved down. When the shuttle travels back their positions are reversed. The reed is like a comb and its purpose is to control the separation of the warp threads. Some basic :

PREPATORY PROCESS FOR DRAWING-IN: The open space between each wire of the hook is called dent. A warp end is ed through a dent with the help of the reed hook, after it es through the heald. This process is called denting. Automatic drawing-in machines multiply the productivity of each drawing-in operation 5to

10- times in relation to manual drawing-in thus

enabling

the

required

level

of

processing flexibility.

MACHINERY: 1) STAUBLI DELTA 200 : The DELTA 200 is a high-performance drawing-in installation. It is used wherever high production performance, a wide field of applications, and maximum flexibility are required. The DELTA 200 draws-in warp yarns directly from the warp beam with 1 or 2 sheets, and optionally up to 4 sheets. 2) STAUBLI DELTA 110 : These drawing-in installations are designed for weaving mills with medium drawing-in requirements. The DELTA 110 also handles drop wires and is a universal installation. Furthermore, a module is available that is specially designed for drawing-in course yarns. Drawing-in takes place directly from the warp beam with 1 warp sheet, or optionally with 2 warp sheets. Main characteristics: DELTA

110

200

Drawing-in speed (ends/min) Number of warps in 8h (ca. ) Warp widths (m) Number of warp sheets Reed density( teeth/ dm) Max. number of frames (J/C-healds)

100/140* 2-5 2.3/ 4.0/ 6.0 1 (2*) 500 20

200 4-8 2.2/ 2.8/ 4.0 2 (4*) 500 28

Max. number of frames (O-healds) Max. rows of dropwires Number of dropwire paths Drawing-in element Yarn count range (tex)

16 ____ ____ Hook 3-250

20 8 2 Rapier 3-330

MACHINE CONCEPT: Modular system The different modules of these machines are as follows: 1)

Main Module Basic Equipment: Part modules: •

Control cabinet and electrics.

•

Base Frame

Function: i) Static auxiliary function ii) ing unit for the machine infrastructure iii) Holds electrics and pneumatics. 2) Yarn Drawn –in Module: Function: Serves to guide the separated warp ends through the heald, drop wire and reed.

3) Yarn Supply Module: Part modules: •

Lifting Device

•

Thread Frame

•

Yarn Separation

•

Yarn Supply Function: i) Handling the warp beam and thread sheet ii) Separating and preparing the warp end for drawn- in. 4) Heald Module: Part modules: •

Heald Magazine

•

Heald Separation

•

Heald Distribution

•

Shaft holder\ Stave holder (harness truck)

Function: i) Handling the healds from the magazine stack ii) Distribution between the shafts 5) Reed Module: Part module: Reed Transport Function: Reed Handling 6) Drop Wire Module: Part modules: •

Drop Wire Magazine

•

Drop Wire Separating

•

Drop Wire Distribution

•

Drop Wire Transport( Harness Truck)

Function: i) Magazing the drop wires. ii) Distributing the drawn-in drop wires between the shafts.

7) Control Module Part modules: •

Function Keyboard

•

Control Keyboard Function: Controls and co-ordinates the module computers assigned to the main module. 8) Master System Module Part modules: •

Keyboard

•

Monitor

•

Master computer

•

Printer

Function: i) Accepts the drawn-in data from the operator ii) Transmits it to the control computer. iii) Manages the operating data. iv) Visualizes the process sequence. SEQUENCE OF FUNCTIONS: 

Band gripper starts the drawing-in sequence before all modules are ready for drawing-in.



If reed module is not ready, it reports after reed test.  Gripper enters the dent (can be stopped if reed module is not ready, otherwise continues its forward motion.  Heald module reports at heald test. If it is not ready, band gripper is stopped before ing through heald eye. If it is in ready state, gripper moves on.  Drop wire module reports at drop wire test. If it is not ready, band gripper is stopped before penetrating eye of the drop wire. If ready, gripper moves on.

 Yarn supply module reports at yarn test. If it is not ready, band gripper is stopped before entering yarn take over. If ready, the gripper continues its motion.  After yarn take over, band gripper which grips the yarn withdraws.  Band gripper withdraws past the drop wire and heald positions.  Drop wire and heald distribution systems move on.  Reed transport ensures the reed position.  Yarn ejectors are actuated in position ‘e’ and ‘f’ (in the diagram).  One drawn-in cycle is over.

5. WEAVING On the conventional loom, the warp beam is mounted at the back and the warp yarns are conveyed to a cylinder called the cloth roll, which is at the front of the loom and on which the fabric is rolled as it is constructed. ed on the frame between these two cylinders( warp beam and cloth beam), the warp yarns are ready to be interlaced by the filling yarns that run in the width of the cloth, thus producing the woven fabric. Four fundamental operations of weaving in any loom are as follows: •

Shedding: raising specific yarns by means of the harness or heddle frame.

•

Picking : inserting filling yarns through the shed

•

Beating up( battening) : pushing filling yarns firmly in place by means of the reed.

•

Taking up and letting of : winding the finished fabric on the cloth beam and releasing more of the warp from the warp beam.

Classification of power looms used is as follows: Looms

DOBBY

JACQUARD No. of looms = 2

RAPIER

AIR-JET

RAPIER LOOMS: these have a double rapier device that is, one on each side of the loom. one rapier feeds the filling yarn halfway through the shed of warp yarns to the arm on the other side, which reaches in and takes it across the rest of the way. These rapier looms operate at speeds ranging from about 200 to 260 ppm at about the noise level of missile looms. They can produce a wide variety of fabrics ranging from muslin to drapery and upholstery materials. AIRJET LOOMS: these looms use a jet of air to propel the filling yarn through the shed at rates of up to 600 ppm. Air jet looms require uniform filling yarns. They are more suitable for use with heavier than lighter yarns because the lighter weight yarns are more difficult to control through the shed. Yet, if the yarn is too heavy, the airjet may not be able to carry the filling across the loom. Within these restraints, the air-jet loom is effective and can produce a wide variety of fabrics. These looms operate at a lower noise level than the shuttle, missile, or rapier looms. JACQUARD LOOMS: If the number of harnesses are more than 24, jacquard looms are used. Any intricate design or motive can be developed using these looms. 10,000 ends can be individually controlled in this loom MACHINERY: Technical details I ) RAPIER LOOM: PICANOL GTX PLUS

Installing the machine: i) Lifting the machine by means of an overhead conveyor or fork-lift truck. Always, the right side is lifted first. ii) Leveling of the machine: leveling is very important for the productivity and life of the machine. This has to be done with an accuracy of 0.3 mm/m over both the length and depth of machine. The level position of the machine has to be checked in 3 places: on the two frames and on the sley shaft. Bidirectional communication : loom monitoring is done by the use of connector XCOMP at the bottom of the control box . CONECTOR SIGNAL XCOMP 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

SELVEDGE BREAKAGE IMPULSE WARP BREAKAGE START/STOP FILLING BREAKAGE VCOMP RESERVE

Control clutch: Control of the clutch and brake is obtained by a fixed programmed electric control. This means that the current in the obtained clutch and brake coil can be changed by the micro-processor, but can’t be adjusted through keyboard. Voltage on the clutch and brake coil = 340 V dc Resistance = 10 to 14 ohms. Clearance between clutch disc and rotor = 0.3 to 0.9 mm. Clearance between clutch disc and brake coil = 0 to 0.05 mm Starting cycle (weaving): It consists of three phases as follows: • A current which is about 5 times more important than the nominal current is first sent, in order to obtain a short regular movement of the clutch disc. • An intervening over excitation level, which is about equal to 3 times the nominal current, until the clutch disc stops slipping. •

A maintenance level, about equal to nominal current during the weaving cycle.

Weave settings for a symmetrical set-up of the warp beam with regard to the machine:

All settings can be carried out without warp beam and with the grippers in the machine.

Marks on the reed holder Position of the slides The race board The lateral position of the left hand temple The lateral position of the left hand temple profile Position of the filling guide Position of the right hand temple Position of the right hand temple profile The temples: height and the lateral position. •

The reed : i)

Reed length (machine without tucking in device) = b + (35 to 40 mm) (machine with tucking in device) = b + 70 mm; Where, b = drawing-in width in the reed.

ii)

Position of the first warp yarn in the reed: Machine without tucking in device = 15 to 20 mm Machine with tucking in device = 30 mm iii) Position of the reed: 1mm from the filling guide. •

Position of the grippers (both left and right hand)

•

Course of the gripper: should be done without a reed in the

sley to avoid any damage on the reed or grippers. •

Position of the gripper openers : sley position = 0 degree

•

Setting of the gripper

Weave settings for an asymmetric set-up of the warp beam with regard to the machine: Full set up is same as symmetrical except for that the left hand slide, temple profile, temple, filling cutter and tucking-in device are not moved. Filling and waste cutters:

There are two blades- fixed and movable both of which should be lubricated daily. Fix blade is 1mm below the filling yarn. Cutters are driven by cam and operate on every pick. •

Tension of the filling clamp •

Setting of the filling cutter: both the blades are moved till the fix blade is

1mm from the filling guide. i) lateral position of cutter blades ii) depth(backrest) position iii) vertical position of fix blade iv) vertical position of movable blade v) cutting movement of the cutter Waste cutter: i) Lateral position of waste cutter : 3mm from fabric selvedge ii) Cutting pressure of the blades iii)

Vertical position: tip of the fix blade is 2mm below the fabric.

iv)

Cutting stroke of the cutter

Filling presentation: There are two types of filling presentations available: • Independent filling presenter type W: i)

Position of the filling presentor : first hook at 185 mm from the left reed dent.

Synchronization of the machine. iii) Setting of the needle depth •

Independent filling presentor type Quickstep

i) Quickstep is an electronic filling presentor for 2-4-6 or 8 channels. Each channel is separately driven by an electric motor. No mechanical drive of the filling presentation and the synchronization with the machine is carried by microprocessor. ii) Working: A channel can carry out two types of presentations: a) A single presentation of a channel

b) Presenting the same channel several times. Quickstep filling presentation is maintenance free and may consequently not be lubricated. iii) Weave Settings :

a) Mechanical b) Synchronization

iv) Trouble shooting N TROUBLE 1 Filling presentor

REASON Power supply is wrong/ wire is

SHOOTING Replace or reconnect the wire/

doesn’t work

not well connected/ no

adjust the clearance between the

2

Irregular needle

synchronization signal Moving arm and motor shaft are

proximity switch and cam. Tighten the screw on the moving

3

movement Position of needle

slipping/ motor doesn’t work Motor polarity is connected the

arm/ replace the module unit. Change the wire connections in

inversed

wrong way

straight way

v) Mounting settings: a) Replacing the motor of a module b) Replacing the needle c) Adjustment of needle on motor shaft The shed: •

Position of the bottom shed: improving the gripper flight, bottom shed rests on the race board as long as possible. •

Shed height is determined by

position of two levers at a distance ‘c’. C depends on harness frame number, required shed height, bottom shed pulled lower than the guide plate. •

Synchronization of the dobby : Sley position should be between 300 and 350 degrees. The warp beam:

•

Set up of warp beam – i) Symmetrical

ii) Asymmetrical

Adjusting the position of the warp beam flanges with regard to the warp beam barrel. •

The backrest: i) Set up of the back rest: Equipped with 2 rolls- tension roll and rotating roll. ii) Height and depth of the back rest to be adjusted: For height, the essential conditions are grain of the fabric, warp breakages. There is higher position for plain weave/heavy cloth and lower position for silk/ filament yarn. Depth depends on elasticity of warp yarns. For light fabrics, whip roller should be as far as possible from heald frame and for heavy weights, it should be near to heald frame. •

Let off (with tension sensor, or feeling roller mounted)

i) Bevel gears adjusted for let off ii) Spring diameter chosen for different colors •

Warp detector : Height and inclination of warp detector should be so that : i)

Warp yarns of bottom shed slightly touch the cross beams of warp stop during open shed.

ii)

Drop wires in the upper shed are lifted as little as possible by the warp yarns.

Take up motion •

ETU electronic take up: Independent servo motor controlled by microprocessor.

Main parts of the take up motor: i)

Take-up housing

ii)

Take up rolls and pressure rolls

iii)

Cloth roll and friction clutch Main oil bath of TU motion parts in

TU housing reduces wear and tear.

Reverse take up facility Pick density can be changed through auto- setting Rotation speed controlled by mp •

Functions of the parts: i) TU Housing: transfer drive power, change speed, increase twisting force, continuity,

stability.

ii) TU Roll : a) Leads the woven fabric smoothly away from the cloth roll. Pressing force of two pressure rollers on both sides is the same. b) Depending on the type of fabric, the pressure imparted by pressure roller keeps changing. iii) Cloth Roll and Friction Clutch: a) Woven fabric smoothly and evenly wound onto the cloth roll. b) Friction clutch can be adjusted to suit the fabric construction, ensuring even wounding. •

Lubrication and maintenance of the take- up motion: Following actions to be performed at regular intervals: i)

Oil level in the take-up housing is sufficient to lubricate the gears inside.

ii)

Gears and chain wheels of the take-up roll should be lubricated. Same tension on both sides should be maintained.

iii)

Cloth roll clutch should not get stuck.

Leno Selvedge Device I) KLOCKER LENO DEVICE: •

Fixation of the device : i) Device with needles is fixed on the first Aluminium profile( closest to the weaver’s side).

ii) Back lath of the device is fixed on the second profile. •

Drawing- in of the yarns: i) The needle yarns are drawn in through the hole through the side walls of the device. Upper yarn is drawn through the eye of upper needle and bottom yarn is drawn through the eye of bottom needle. ii) The leno yarns are directly drawn in through the two slots of the plastic sliding piece. In double leno motion, leno yarns are drawn in at both sides in the same way.

•

Harness frames are put on harness crossing for easier drawing in. a distance of 15mm in the reed is kept between the two groups of leno yarns in case of double leno mechanism.

•

Working Principle: Leno yarns are both drawn in through the diagonal slots of the plastic sliding pieces. Both plastic pieces can move separately. The front piece has a magnet. For upward motion of pieces, front piece remains at bottom with regard to back piece. For downward motion of pieces, front piece remains at top with regard to back piece. This can be divided into four phases: i) Phase-I: Both leno yarns are positioned in the upper shed. Both needle yarns are positioned in the bottom shed. One pick is inserted. ii) Phase-II : Needles move upwards and leno yarns move downwards. At the movement of harness crossing, leno yarns cross between needle yarns. iii) Phase-III: Needle yarns are positioned completely upwards (in the upper shed ) Leno yarns are positioned completely downwards( in the bottom shed) One pick is inserted. iv) Phase-IV: Needles move downwards and leno yarns move upwards. During harness crossing, leno yarns are again crossing between needle yarns. During weaving, one leno yarn is straightened so that only one leno yarn is visible in the fabric. II) LENO HEDDLE OF KLOCKER

•

Fixation of the device.

•

Drawing in of the yarns :

Drop heald yarn is drawn-in through the eye of the drop heald between the two listings. Leno yarn is drawn-in between the two listings in same direction of drop heald yarn. For easier drawing-in, machine is put in position with open shed. In case of double leno mechanism, a distance of 15mm in the reed between the two groups of leno yarns is maintained. •

Working principle : movement of leno heddle is divided in 4 phases:

i) Phase I: At the moment of crossing, drop heddle yarn is positioned above leno yarn. ii) Phase II : One listing is pulled downwards, drop heddle and other listing is pulled upwards. Yarns obtain tension and are positioned under yarn guide which is lower than bottom shed. So the leno yarn between listing and drop heddle will slide downwards. Drop heald yarn is pushed upwards by drop heddle. iii) Phase III: now, direction of both the listings is interchanged. Leno yarn is positioned under drop heald yarn.( same as phase I) iv) Phase IV : leno yarn slides downward between drop heddle and second listing. Needle yarn is positioned in front of the drop heald yarn.( same as phase-II) III) WEAVE SETTINGS •

Lateral position of the device: Sley position: On machines equipped with dobby, all harness frames are placed downwards. The devices are moved until they warp yarns. •

The shed height: For some fabrics, height of leno harnesses is set according to warp yarns.

•

Position of the cam

Tucking-in Device •

After the inserted pick has been beaten up by the reed and when the selvedge ends hold the weft, weft is taken along the length of the

selvedge by gripper. Weft is then cut between the selvedge gripper and the selvedge ends at 11mm from the first warp end by cutter. •

Construction: Number of weft ends is doubled on the selvedge edge stroke. No problems occur with fabrics having less picks/inch than ends/inch. With square clothes or clothes having higher weft density, higher tensions are caused in the selvedge because of large shrink. Hence, risk of warp breakages in the selvedges is greater during weaving and difficulty may occur in the finishing of the cloth coz of construction of selvedge. Solution: i) Number of warp ends in selvedge zone should be reduced. ii) The weave in selvedge zone should be changed iii) Thinner warp yarns should be used in selvedge A Dense Warp

B

C Weft Density predominant

Square fabric

Reduce warp density by 30%

Reduce warp density by 15%

Change selvedge weave

Use fine warp ends

When the machine is equipped with a tucking in device, it is advisable to put extra heald wires between the selvedges and ground fabric, so that the drawing-in can be changed between the selvedges and the ground of the cloth. Number of heald wires depends on length of the tucked ends. It selvedge is perfect, extra heald wires should be cut out. •

Drawing-in of the first warp yarn and the leno yarns:

In case of machines with tucking in device, reed is 70 mm longer than the drawingin of the fabric. The reed is also set at a distance of 1mm from the filling guide. The first warp yarn is drawn-in at 30mm from the first left hand reed dent.

At the right hand side, the right hand waste yarn is positioned at 35-40 mm from the last warp yarn.

II) AIRJET LOOM- OMNI 800 PLUS

Installing the machine •

Unloading the machine •

Moving the machine : The machine can be moved by means of a crane or fork- lift track

or by wheels. Appropriate lifting beam must be used. Whole length varies from 3760mm to 6470mm. •

Leveling the machine: Auxiliary tools for leveling the machine are :

•

i.

A leveling instrument with an accuracy of 0.3mm/m

ii.

Two hydraulic lifting jacks

iii.

A lifting hook which s front side of the frame.

iv.

The back side is jacked up by means of the warp beam . Glueing the machine: To prevent the machine from moving due to

vibrations, it is glued to the floor with a two component epoxy glue. •

Leveling the control :

•

Fixing the double warp beam

•

Warp beam bearing poitions

•

Installing the control box

PARTS OF THE MACHINE:

The 1131 and 2231 CAN plus Prewinder •

Aligning the pre-winder

•

Positioning the balloon breaker

•

Changing the sense of rotation of prewinder

•

4-pick insertion

The fixed main nozzle: Parts of the fixed nozzle are:•

Replacing injectors

•

Changing assignment

•

Weaving setting

The fixed main nozzle should be positioned such that the line leading from the prewinder drums’ centre to the movable main nozzle is as straight as possible. The movable main nozzle •

Parts of the movable main nozzle are:One or more main nozzle

modules Injector Air inlet Nozzle extension The filling yarn count dictates which injector and main nozzle body will be used. The fixed and movable main nozzle cannot be exchanged with each other. Injectors are available in different types like conical and cylindrical. The internal operations uniquely identify the different injectors. •

Replacing parts:

The following actions can be undertaken without dismantling the movable main nozzle from the machine:-

i) Replacing the injectors ii) Replacing the main nozzle module

•

Channel assignment: It is advisable to use the channel nearest to the reed.

•

Setting the pressure: The pressure can be set on the front left side of the machine. The pressure of the main nozzle determines the speed of the filling yarn.

•

The filling clamp: there is a filling clamp per channel at the main nozzle inlet. It is open during filling insertion and clamps the filling if insertion doesn’t take place.

•

The directional nozzle: To lead the filling in a right direction during the insertion start.

•

Weaving settings: This can be adjusted in two ways: i) Lateral position ii) Depth adjustment

•

The swinging main nozzle: Switching mechanism

Relay nozzles •

Arranged over the entire length of the reed, these assist the

movable main nozzle in blowing the pick through the reed guiding channel. Relay nozzles are fitted to the right of the last warp ends to direct the pick towards the suction mouth •

Relay nozzles are divided up into groups, in that each group

of nozzles is served independently by a dedicated relay nozzle value. The second and rest of the relay nozzles are placed at uniform distances, i.e., 74mm from one another. •

The more the relay nozzle is turned towards the reed, the

higher the yarn flight in the insertion channel. •

The higher the pressure, the lower the yarn flight in the

insertion channels. The pneumatic control •

Compressed air

•

Pressure regulators

The pressure for the relay nozzles must be set as low as possible with no weaving faults occurring and with a minimum number of machine stops. i) MAIN VALVE REGULATOR: Regulates pressure on buffer tank(s) for main nozzle. Pressure of main nozzle determines the speed of filling yarns. ii) AUXILIARY PRESSURE REGULATOR: Regulates the pressure for the auxiliary functions: a) pistons of pick finder b) Pre-winder, threading and PFT threading c) Chimney stretching nozzle d) Extraction nozzle e) tucking-in device f) Clamp on main nozzle g) 8 color switching valve This is set for fixed value 6 bar. Auxiliary Pressure = Supply pressure – 1 bar iii) LEFT RELAY NOZZLE REGULATOR: Regulates the pressure on the left hand relay nozzle buffer tank. iv) RIGHT RELAY NOZZLE REGULATOR: Regulates pressure on the RH relay nozzle buffer tank. iv)

QUICK COUPLING: Pressure from different regulators can be measured by

means of a manometer through quick coupling. • i)

Air distribution :

Main distribution block

ii)

Air to buffer tank fixed main nozzles

iii)

Air to buffer tank movable main nozzles

iv)

Air distribution block

v)

Air to LH and RH buffer tank

vi)

Pneumatic unit above movable main nozzle (pneumatic unit)

vii)

ELCA on buffer tank viii)

Parking brake

ix) •

Value block, pick finding, counter flow Main Nozzle Modules

i) For movable main nozzle: Positioned on cross beam ii) For fixed main nozzle: Positioned on power box behind the left side cover •

Temple Nozzle

i) Used for a filling detector in front of the reed or next to the reed. ii) To prevent yarn ends RH side from returning in the fabric, temple nozzle mounted on temple . Chimney stretching nozzle It ensures that the filling yarn remains stretched during the closing of the shed. Extraction nozzle blows the filling waste out of the chimney stretching nozzle after the sley beat-up. Stretching relay nozzles Waste guide is used to keep long filling waste away from the fabric. Extraction nozzle blows the filling waste behind the waste guide. Filling detector is mounted nest to last warp end. Stretching nozzle is mounted next to filling detector. On machines equipped with a waste guide, the stretching relay nozzle is positioned behind the waste guide. Filling detectors (in front of reed and next to reed) Functions: •

To control the arrival of filling yarn at RH machine side.

•

Transmission of arrival time data to microprocessor.

•

To make machine stop when it detects a filling yarn. The filling detector’s function is based on the reflection of a light beam. They should be regularly cleaned by alkaline solution. Filling cutter

It cuts the filling at the LH machine side at the end of insertion. •

It is found on left side of the machine next to air preparation of the movable main nozzle.

•

Timing of cutting: Time is set around 10 degrees and is adjustable for each channel separately.

•

The filling clamp: Used for a better control of the filling yarn at the LH machine side. Reed

The Dobby The outside cam motion Harness frames The optimum height setting depends on a number of factors like article type, weave, and machine speed(rpm).

TOPMATIC WARP TYING MACHINE •

EFFICIENCY: Warp preparation on the TPF tying frame is fast and comfortably. Even at 600 knots per minute, the warp threads are drawn through the weaving harness in a perfect manner. Practically all staple fiber and filament yarns can be tied without extensive adjustments.

• QUALITY: The unique, patented electronic double thread detection of the TOPMATIC PC operates in warps with or without lease. The considerable reduction

in double threads and redirected warp threads lead to an increased efficiency of the weaving machine. •

SPEED: 600 knots/minute, automatic repetition in case of a separation faults.

•

YARN COUNT RANGE: 0.8-500 tex / Nm 2-1250 / Ne 1.2-740 •

LEASE TYPE: All combinations in one machine, switch-over control for irregular lease (optional) •

DOUBLE END DETECTION: - Mechanical, for warps with lease - Electronic, for warps with or without lease

•

KNOT TYPES: - Single or double knots in one machine, selectable - Length of knot ends selectable (optional)

III) JACQUARD LOOM:

TYPE GT511 – II (ELECTRONIC JACQUARD)

FUNCTION DESCRIPTION

GT511 electronic jacquard adapts 16-bit high performance handler for providing big function and ease of operation. • The dot pattern liquid crystal display has Chinese operation I/F. • The controller is equipped with 1.44 MB, DOS compatible, 3.5’’ floppy disc drive. • Maximum speed = 1000picks/ minute

• Memory capacity = 8 MB. Therefore, data will not miss when in de-energized state, for storing designs transmitted from floppy disc, to edit and weave the complicated JOB, which is formed by various kinds of patterns. • Information in the controller and loom can be preserved. • Controller has configuration function, if used on special looms. Parameters like warp program, weft program can be set. • It has eight LED’s on the to display the state of supply, controller and loom. • System will automatically start to self test when energized or operated and provide loom’s test program for test weave when djusting the loom. . • Many anti-interference ways to control power interference, radiation interference and conduction interference. • Each operation has detailed instruction, it is not necessary for the customer to too much of the procedure. CONTROLLER FASIA: This includes: •

LCD modular

•

8 LED’s

•

20 buttons

TECHNICAL DATA: Temperature = -5 to 40 degree Centigrade Relative humidity = 0% to 95% non condensation Power = 110 V +- 15% , 45 – 60 Hz Power consumption = 60 watts COMMANDS: Running state: LCD model displays :i) Job number ii) Pattern name iii) Weaved cycles iv) Remaining cycles v) Weave pattern cycles

vi) Current pick vii) Current speed

•

Pattern program

•

Application program viii)Pattern application program : a) Pattern directory b) Memory usage c) Pattern conversion

d) Return TOP PORTION OF JACQUARD (ATTACHMENT OF HARNESSES)

ix) Job list application program : a) Edit b) Weave from first job c) Weave from current pattern d) Weave from designated pick number e) Return •

Controller configuration

•

Test program

•

Exit

2. I. d GREY FOLDING Grey Fabric Inspection occurs in fabric inspection for the weaving/ spinning defects. The removable defects are removed and noted down, and irremovable defects’ location is noted down and the frequency is noted. There is a roller attatched counter which counts the number of metres inspected and helps in location the position of the defect.

In 300 mtrs, if 30 points/100mtrs of defects are detected, then the fabric is a defective one. Inspection machine, s manufacturers are D. S. Topiwala. Folding and Plaiting machine 1000/2500/5000 meters of plaited fabric blocks are formed as per requirement fabric ed through 4 sets of rollers cleaning inside the machine. 2 fabric beams are stitched together with a single needle chain stitch machine for acquiring the required amount of the length of the fabric roll. 2 plaiting machines of the make D.S. Topiwala Enterprise is present. No. of Workers is 50/shift and the no. of machines is 12. The no of plaits of fabric folds to be formed can be set in the automatic plaiting m/c.

Fabric inspection m/c

Fabric inspection

2. I.e.CORDUROY

Counter

Plaiting Machine

Corduroy is a fabric comprised of twisted fibers that when woven lay parallel (similar to twill) to one another to form the cloth's distinct pattern, a "cord." Modern corduroy is most commonly composed of tufted cords, sometimes exhibiting a channel (bare to the base fabric) between the tufts.

As a fabric, corduroy is considered a durable cloth. Socially, the clothes made from corduroy are considered casual, and are usually favored in colder climates during seasonal periods. Corduroy is most commonly found in the construction of tros. The material is also used in the construction of (sport) jackets and shirts. The width of the cord is commonly referred to as "wale"; the size of the wale. The width of the wale makes some uses more common than others. Wide wale is more commonly found on tros; medium, narrow and fine wale fabrics are usually found in garments used above the waist. The Basic weave of the corduroy fabric consists of a chain structure in the back of the cloth and an uncut pile formation in the front.The pile are cut using a circular blade(cutter/knife) and a needle which guides the blde throough the uncut pile loop. Yarn dyed corduroy is manufactured as both bottom (thick) and shirtings (thin). The density of the cutting rings is 21-28 rings/blades per inch. The cut fabric is collected in plaited batches. Two suction tubes are present which continuously sucks in the particles released while cutting. Pressing and brushing Machine Water sprayed onto the fabric surface once entering the machine. 8 belts move clockwise and anti clockwise. The process flow is: Uncut Grey| | Grey uncut brushed (dry conditioned) Grey Cutting (on Cutting Machine) Inspection (Any uncut portion is again cut by razor, manually) Brush at grey cut(Wet conditioning) Bleaching

Dyeing Finishing Corduroy (finish folding) 

Production rate of the corduroy dept. is 600 to 700 metres/day



8 cutting machines are present



The make of the machines are Franz Muller()(for cutting , pressing)2 nos -

Bresgres(Bigger brushing machine)

-

Amritsar

Brushing Machine 

To and fro eccentric motion removes roughness further.18 circular rollers cum brushers roll on the cut grey corduroy for brushing along the grain line.



12 steam cylinders are used for drying after steaming in the first chamber, for improved softness. At a temperature of 50 to 60 digree Celsius.

Corduroy inspection machines are Laxmi, tech shivam Industries, Vadodara) In the brushing machine, moisture is imparted using a fine spray. Then the fabric is ed through a set of 8 belts moving left and right alternatively. 5such sets of belts exist in the brushing system. After the brushing the cloth is stretched through a set of 8 cylinders. !6 eccentric rollers are used for further brushing. 2 sections with 3 rollers and 2 rollers are present before the plaiting.

2. I. f. PIECE DYEING AND FINISHING PROCESSES PREPARATORY PROCESSES: Preparatory processes are used: •

To improve the wettability for dyeing(for uniform ness and depth of color)

•

To remove the impurities.

•

Fabric should have perfect white color before dyeing.

Grey goods must be cleaned before they can be finished. They may contain warp sizing, oils, other additives, dirt and soil. Complete removal is necessary in order to finish, dye, and print goods effectively. The method of cleaning depends upon the fiber in the fabric, the kind of impurities present, and the construction of the fabric. SINGEING (OR GASSING) AND DESIZING If a fabric is to have a smooth finish, singeing and desizing are one of the first essential preparatory processes. Singing burns off lint and threads as well as all fuzz and fibers ends, leaving an even surface before the fabric es through other finishing processes. Especially for achieving the uniform color in dyeing singeing is necessary because protruding fibers causes dullness. Machine used: OSTHOFF SENGE () Goller singing with impregnation unit type ‘WA’. Speed of the machine: 79m/min Squeeze pressure: 0.8 bar Compensator pressure: 2.0 bar Number of machine: 1 Meter counter production: 46m Process happening: First of all when the fabric from pleating department comes for finishing it is singed and desized in this machine. Singing is accomplished by ing grey goods rapidly over gas flames, usually two burners to a side, at a speed of 100 to 250 yards per minute. Fabric can be singed both face and back side of the fabric, after that the fabric is washed with water to reduce the temperature, then it is ed through a chemical solution to remove the starch and other chemicals while sizing, called Desizing. The

fabric collected at the end of the machine in a beam is hot and wet. A single thread chain stitch machine is used to stitch two different fabrics. So the process is continuous, only its setting has to be changed for different fabrics. Burner: The intensity of the flame depends on the type of fabric. It varies from 8mbr-12mbr. According to roller setting and fabric type, the fabric can be singed in two ways: One side for two times. For fabrics like corduroy the face side is singed two times. Two sides for 1 time Burner pressure: 10.0 mbar r more. Flame intensity: 10mbar or more. There is a sensor in the machine which detects the temperature of the fabric. If the fabric is burned then it sense it and the temperature is then controlled in the burner. Suction unit: In this unit the flames of the burned particles which are left on the fabric are extinguished. Brushing unit: After the fabric is singed it is ed through brushing unit where the burned particles are brushed out.

Desizing: The purpose of a desizing process is to remove sizes that have been attached to warp yarns during a weaving process. Prior to the desizing process, therefore, the size analysis should be performed in order to set desizing conditions suitable for the sizes. After the cotton cloth leaves the burners, it is pulled through a solution of an enzyme, squeezed out in a heavy mangle, and usually allowed to lie for several hours to allow the enzyme to digest the starch with which the warp yarns were sized. There is a temperature indicator on the top which indicates the temperature.

Desizing temperature: 70 degrees Celsius. Cotton fabrics contain primary and secondary impurities as shown in tables below, and the purpose of Desizing and scouring is to remove these impurities. Primary impurities Pectic substance Cotton wax, cotton seed oil Protein Ash pigment

Secondary impurities Starch PVA Acrylic size Wax After-wax

•

Percentage 2-3% 0.3% 0.3-0.4% 0.01-0.03%

percentage 4-6% 3-5% 0.5-1% 0.2-0.5% 0.5.%

Chemicals used in Desizing:

Enzymes: the pH range of the enzymes has to be maintained while desizing. There may be difference in the enzymes used. It degrades the cellulose in fabric surface which in turn affect the color of the fabric, the fabric becomes more faded. But the softness of the fabric is increased by using enzymes in the chemical. Sequestering agent: it removes the metal particles from the surface of the fabric. Wetting agent Stabilizer Hydrogen peroxide Acetic acid Both direct and indirect heating is given to the fabric.

After desizing the fabric is collected in the beam where the beam is kept rotating for 6-8 hours. The rotation time is given for the enzymes to react with the fabric surface and sizing particles and remove it. Practically all cotton fabrics, except those that are to be napped, are singed. Singing is basically of three types: •

Roller singeing

•

Plate singeing

•

Gas singeing

Singeing may also be done at the yarn stage, especially when the yarns are to be used for fine quality cotton goods. Usually such yarns are fully mercerized, and singeing in this case is referred to as gassing. Mercerized gassed yarns are sold in the trade as lisle. WASHING RANGE MACHINE: After rotation for 8 hours, the fabric is washed with hot water usually at 95`C. Turbo rollers are used in this machine for efficiency in washing which creates turbulence while washing through rotating rollers. Some of the rollers used for washing have motors. One vacuum suction is present in the machine which removes the singing particles from the fabric surface after reaction from enzymes for 8 hrs. No. of machine: 1

Washing range for reactive dyed fabrics After washing generally wet processing is done, dry processing is done only in few cases. BLEACHING: Bleaching, a process of whitening fabric by removal of natural color, such as the tan of linen, is usually carried out by means of chemicals selected according to the chemical composition of the fiber. Objective: •

To remove the natural coloring matters and make the fabric in perfect white with minimum damage to fibers and within the shortest possible time.

This process is necessary if discoloration or stains have occurred during the previous manufacturing processes. All bleaching processes reduce the strength of the fiber. Bleaching is carried out near or above boiling temperature under pressure for one hour or more. After bleaching, the fabric is thoroughly rinsed with slight amount of basic solution to avoid formulation of insoluble silicates. Chemical bleaching is usually accomplished by oxidation, destroying color by the application of oxygen, or by reduction, removing color by hydrogenation. Cotton and other cellulosic fibers are usually treated with heated alkaline hydrogen peroxide; wool and other animal fibers are subjected to such acidic reducing agents as gaseous sulfur dioxide or to such mildly alkaline oxidizing agents as hydrogen peroxide. Synthetic fibers, when they require bleaching, may be treated with either oxidizing or

reducing agents, depending upon their chemical composition. Cottons are frequently scoured and bleached by a continuous system.

Bleaching and Scouring CBR (CONTINUOUS BLEACHING RANGE): The wet fabric is feed. Normally wet fabric is preferred over dried. Chemical unit (called as dip set): The fabric is ed from the chemicals for bleaching and then it goes to the steamer where the fabric is given reaction time at a temperature usually at 98`C. The pressure and the temperature are decided according to the fabric. There is a camera fixed in the steamer to check for the fabric. Washing: After that the fabric comes down to washing unit where it is washed with simple hot water. There are four washing chambers. Drying: Depending on the further processes the fabric is dried. It is optional. The fabric is dried through indirect heating from the heated cylinders. There are total 10 cylinders and the fabric is ed through them covering there surfaces. The temperature of the cylinders varies from 120`C to 125`C. the temperature also depends upon the type of the fabric and it is maintained automatically and if it is not required then steam is turned off. If the fabric is heavy then the temperature is high and for light weighted fabrics it is low.

The drying process depends on further processes. The fabric is not dried if it is going for mercerization; it is dried only if it is going for finishing. MERCERIZATION: The treatment of cotton fabrics or garments with a cold concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide for a minute or less is called mercerization. It is a value added process. After this process the cotton fibers will swell, untwist and their beam shaped cross section will change into round form giving smoothness to the fabric. Tension is applied to the fabrics in the machine in the vertical direction with a tension cylinder, and in the horizontal direction with a clip tenter. The processing time by the cylinder and the tenter in total is 30 to 60 seconds. To prevent the fabrics from shrinking after going through the tenter, the NaOH concentration in the fabrics needs to be decreased sufficiently when the fabrics leave the tenter. Also, since the piling on thick fabrics in a wet state leaves creases on the fabrics, the thick fabrics need to be dried promptly. Change in a cross-section of a cotton fiber during a mercerization treatment.

1-5 6 7

Swelling process in an alkaline solution Removal of alkali by water substitution After drying

Objectives: •

To increase the strength. It is increased by 15-25%

•

To further enhance the lusture.

•

To increase the affinity to water, dyes and other chemical finishes.

•

Stable dimention

Machine type: Mercerizing range type “optima” No. of machine: 1 Speed of the machine: 40 m/min-50 m/min Production per hour: 2400 m No. of workers: 3 The machine runs depending on the order

Mercerizing zone: Fabric is padded with about 20-25% caustic soda (NaOH solution) containing a wetting agent. The temperature of the mercerizing zone is usually maintained at 65`C. Two types of mercerization are done: Wet on wet: Where wet fabric is used. It is not dried. Hot mercerization: Where dried fabric is used for the process. Stabilizing zone: In this section the width of the fabric is stabilized, NaOH stabilizes the fabric structure. NaOH is washed here because less GLP (gram per liter) NaOH is used for washing. Washing zone: There are four chambers for washing or four washers. In the last chamber Acetic acid is dozed to neutralize the fabric before sending it to other departments. The fabric should be either neural or acidic but not alkaline. pH is controlled at 4.5 Water flow in each chamber: 1.01 /kg

Rubber is used in the rollers. If the rubber is damaged then it will affect the fabric and will leave stains. Metal bearings are used in the machine. There is no sensor in the machine to detect the fabric damage. DYEING: Main objective in the dyeing of textile materials are: •

Color the fibers uniformly.

•

Achieve acceptable durability of the color to further treatments in production and normal use. Fastness of the color material to sunlight and multiple cleaning is of prime importance.

Conventional process: The majority of the textile fibers are dyed by conventional batch method of dyeing referred to as ‘exhaust dyeing’. In a typical exhaust dyeing a concentrated solution or dispersion of the dye(s) in water is made first. Then the dye-bath is prepared by diluting the concentrated dye solution with proper amount of water. Certain chemicals, used as dyeing assistance, are usually added to the dye-bath before and/or during the dyeing to assist in the proper absorption of the dyes by the fibers. Throughout the dyeing process, the dye solution is circulated through the substrate (fabric) and/or the substrate is moved within the dye-bath. The temperature is gradually raised usually to temperatures close to boiling point of water, where it is kept for 30-60 minutes or more, according to need. While dyeing, the dye is taken up slowly (exhaustion of the dye-bath) by the fibers. Usually almost all of the dye is consumed, and the dye-bath is said to be exhausted. PAD STEAM MACHINE: Padding dyes the fabric as it is held at full width. The fabric is ed through a trough containing dye and then between two heavy rollers which force the dye into the cloth and squeeze out the excess. It is generally done on a continuous dye range which can accommodate a large amount of fabric. The material is run in one operation

through a pad, into a heat or steam chamber to set the dye, then successively into a washer, a rinser, and a dryer. Machine type: Goller () Number of machine: 2 One machine is for reactive dyed machine and caustic size where there is no steamer. And one machine has steamer which is for wet dyed fabric and caustic size. After wet dyeing the fabric is feed to this machine. First of all the fabric from the beam is ed through hydro caustic where the hydro caustic is put in a tank. Hydro caustic is used to fix the color on the fabric and also for leveling. Biancalani PRATO ITALI: used for polishing the fabric. Quantity of hydro caustic: 35 gpl (grams per liter) Streamer: After that the fabric goes to the steamer which is located at a higher level where direct heating is given to the fabric. Only steam is present in the streamer. The temperature of the steamer is usually 100`C. The fabric stays in the steamer for a minute. On the sides of steamers there are four tanks having hydro caustic after A-Ring. The steamer is used only if the fabric is dyed from wet dyes, for a reactive dyed fabric the steamer is switched off because reactive dyed fabrics are kept in rotation for 8 hours and no rotation is required for wet dyed fabrics. Water lock: From the steamer which is located on the top of the machine the fabric comes down to water lock where the fabric is cooled. The temperature of the fabric has to be reduced so it is washed with water and other chemicals. Number of washers: 7 Speed: 60 m/min

washer 1

Set temperature(in C ) 40

Real temperature( in C) 56

2 3 4 5 6 7

60 60 95 95 70 60

71 71 90 92 83 86

•

First and second washer has soft H2O.

•

Third washer has peroxide for wet dyed fabric and if the fabric is dyed through reactive dye then Hexa Meta phosphate (HMP) is used.

•

Fourth and fifth washer contains soap for both wet and reactive dyed fabric.

•

Seventh washer contains acetic acid. Water from seventh washer can be transferred to the first washer.

Water in the washers is changed if a new lighter shade of the fabric is used after darker shade. Also if the shade of the color is changed or a new color fabric is fed then the currently used water is discharged and new water is fed. Generally water is changed after every 1 or half an hour. For drying the fabric for further processes eighteen hot cylinders are used and through direct heating fabric is dried. Out of them two cylinders were in the front, they are known as pulling cylinders. Basically the cycle which the fabric undergoes in pad steam machine is: Beam

A Ring

Final Fabric

hydro caustic

Hot Cylinders

Steamer

7 Washers

Then it is ed through nip rollers where it is squeezed between two rollers. Basically nip rollers are used to remove the excess water in the fabric.

The speed of the machine can be changed according to the fabric type like For Bottom weight fabrics: 45 m/min For shirting fabrics: 30 m/min. PDR (PAD DRY RANGE) MACHINE: Parameters: POPLIN 1. Temperature 2. Fan speed 3. Damper 4. I.R 5. Moist BOTTOM 1. Temperature 2. Fan speed 3. Damper 4. I.R 5. Moist CORDROY(bottom) 1. Temperature 2. Fan speed 3. Damper

120 50 5 5

VAT DYES 120 130 50 50 5 5 5 5 3+1 21%

VAT DYES 120 130 140 70 70 80 5 5 5 5 5 5 3+3 22%

0 0 5 5

150 80 5 5

REACTIVE DYES 120 130 140 70 70 80 5 5 5 5 5 5 3+2 30%

150 80 5 5

4. I.R 5. Moist

30%

REACTIVE DYES 170 200 200 200 80 80 80 80 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 3+3 40%

CORDROY(shirting

VAT DYES

REACTIVE DYES

) 1. Temperature 2. Fan speed 3. Damper

VAT DYES 120 135 150 150 70 70 80 80 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

REACTIVE DYES 120 130 130 0 50 50 50 0 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 2+0 45%

120 70 5 5

135 70 5 5

150 80 5 5

150 80 5 5

180 80 5 5

200 80 5 5

200 80 5 5

200 80 5 5

4. I.R 5. Moist

3+2 30%

2+2 40%

COLOR KITCHEN: In this section colors are prepared for dyeing. Colors are mixed in a tank. Number of tanks: 5 One dissolving tank and four tanks for different tanks. The tank who needs the color for the particular machine takes the color from the dissolving tank. Colors are prepared by mixing the dye with water and chemicals. Following parameters are considered while preparing the dye: Dissolving volume: 120 l Preparations: 1 Preparation tank: anyone from the four tanks. Total volume: 586 l Heating mode: heating Temperature 1: 50 C (temperature before adding color) Temperature 2: 30 C (after adding color if more color is to be added after stirring) Mixing time: according to the dye and chemicals used B (cold patch batch): This technique is a variation of pad dyeing. The fabric is immersed in the dye liquor at room temperature. After the excess liquor is squeezed out by the pad rollers, the roll of fabric is wrapped to prevent drying. It is then rotated slowly for up to 48 hours to obtain uniformity of dye application. The fabric is then washed in a mild alkaline solution to remove the liquor additives and unfixed dyes. Finally the cloth is extracted and dried. The dye stuff and alkali are combined in one bath through which the fabric is ed. Excess liquor is squeezed out on the mangle and the fabric is batched on rolls which

are then covered with plastic sheets to prevent evaporation. It is then subsequently washed. Advantages: •

This method uses less energy and less water which results in less pollution

•

It is as fast as the continuous range system at less capital expenditure

•

Has the desired stability and rapid fixation while providing reliable and consistent shade.

This machine is used for reactive dyes. Dye or color and silicate caustic are put in trough. Only colors are imparted to the fabric, no drying of the fabrics happens.

FINISHING PROCESS: Newly constructed fabric is called greige goods or grey fabric. The goods must various finishing processes to make it suitable for its intended end use. Finishing may change the appearance of the fabric, its hand (feel), its serviceability, and its durability.in this unit: Number of machine: 10 Number of workers: 25- 30 per shift Monforts shrinkage range: •

In a huge tank plaited fabric is kept where it is continuously fed to the machine. When one plait of fabric gets over, the second plait of fabric is stitched to the end of first fabric by single needle lock stitch machine. First off all the fabric enters a unit containing a cylinder, two big rollers, a trough containing liquid, liquid is sprayed from one thin roller over a big roller for cooling the fabric.

•

Then the fabric enters a huge unit containing one huge cylinder.

•

After coming out through the cylinder.

Dhall shrinking range (sunforising machine): Standard shrinkage: 4-5 % Shrinkage in bottom weights: 7% Plaited fabric

5-6 rollers

1 cylinder

5-6 rollers

•

Pre shrinkage

•

In this machine the fabric is ed through two different rollers and steam and it is made to through a palmer which is like a thick blancket. After it is ed through this the fabric gets its own shrinkage.

•

00 shrinkage or no shrinkage is there in the fabric after this process.

•

This processes required especially for cotton fabrics. Chemicals which gets spread over it when it breaks it smoothes the surface.

•

+- 3% shrinkage is allowed.

STENTERING: This process is applied at various stages of finishing. Usually the fabric is wet when it is run into a tenter. After being relaxed during dyeing and finishing, all fabrics are coaxed back to normal width on a tentering frame. The endless chain of mechanical fingers, or tenter-frame clips, grips the fabric selvedges on entering the machine, which has been set for the narrowest width of the fabric. Gently but firmly, the fingers stretch the fabric to a predetermined width as is es down the length of the tenter over live steam and subsequently heat, which dries and sets the fabric. Objectives: •

drying of the fabric

•

Evening of the fabric width

This machine basically consists of two endless chains carried in rugged rails with a distance between them that can be adjusted. The chains are equipped with clips or pins, which grip the selvedge of the fabric and carry it into the heated housing where a blast of hot air removes any moisture. Pin frames are mostly used on woolens or knitted goods; clip frames are favored for cottons. Stentering is a continuous operation in that the goods enter one end of the frame, which usually 90 feet (30 m) long, and emerge from the other. The frame is equipped with devices that straighten the filling and keep it at right angles to the warp, thus avoiding biased goods. No of machine: 3 i. BRUCKER STENTER: Mahlo machine ii. Harish stenter iii. Primatex FS-100 stenter Strength of the fabric is also improved from Stentering. Moreover silicon finishing is also given simultaneously for feel improvement. BRUCKER STENTER Mahlo: weft straightener For checking of the fabric For bow and skew Number of cameras: 4(for identifying bow and skew) There are rollers in the machine which imparts bow and skew to some fabrics. For example, for bottom fabric skew is necessary, so the rollers are set according to the amount of skew required. Photo sensors are fixed in the machine for better rest. The fabric stretched here where fan is given to cool the excess temperature while heating. There are 4 heating system after Stentering. There are 10 chambers each with different temperature and the distance between two chambers is 3 meters. Every chamber has a fan.

CHAMBERS 1st chamber 2nd chamber 3rd chamber 4th chamber 5th chamber th 6 chamber 7th chamber 8th chamber 9th chamber 10th chamber

TEMPERATURE IN ` C 90 98 101 113 115 107 120 106 109 109

•

Every chamber has a fan inside it.

•

The standard temperature for all kinds of shirting fabrics is 110 `C but for bottom weights it is kept 150 `C.

•

Oil heating system. Oils are used for heating.

•

Cooling cylinders

•

Moisture controller: 3 small rollers. It is necessary for keeping the fabric a little wet also necessary for shrinking the fabrics.

HARISH MACHINE: •

This machine is also used for Stentering. Its working is equivalent to mahlo type the difference lies in hearting mode. Here gas heating is given to the fabric instesd of oil heating in Mahlo.

•

Moreover bow and skew is adjusted manually.

•

It has only 5 chambers.

•

Pigment coating machine is attached to it especially for denims and only on one side. Then effect is given after enzyme washing.

PREMATEN MACHINE: •

It has only 4 chambers

•

Oil heating is given

MONFORT MACHINE: •

Latest machine

•

Rubber unit is present to give pressure. Shrinkage is set here. So the fabric is squeezed inside.

•

Vaco: sprays moisture in the fabric.

•

After that the fabric goes for cooling.

•

Pamer unit: made up of woolen blanket. Two cylinders are present one big and one small for drying.

After the fabric is being processed various types of finishes are given to the fabric according to the intended end use of the fabric. It is basically of three types: Finishing Normal finishing

Mechanical finishing

Specific requirement according to the order

Other types of finishing include: •

Silicon finish

•

Softener finish

•

Wrinkle free finish: These finishes are also sometimes referred to as crease resistance finishes. The

purpose of this finish is to prevent deformation of the fabric by

undesirable and unintentionally introduced folds and rumples. •

Chemical finish

•

Water repellant finish: A water repellent fabric is one that will resist absorption and penetration of water for a given period of time, depending upon the length of exposure and

the force of water. •

Mechanical finish which includes peach finish, brush, calendaring, raise finish

•

Teflon finish

•

Soil release finish: This finish will facilitate the removal of dirt or stains from fabrics treated

with a permanent press finish. •

Vitamin E finish

•

Aloe Vera finish

•

Anti-microbial finish: Chemical antiseptic finishes impart a self-sterilizing quality to a fabric. The appearance and feel of the fabric are unchanged, and no chemical odor remains. Dry-cleaning does not impair the finish.

•

Uv cut

•

3X dry finish

•

Durawhite finish etc

In chemical finishing, heat treatment is given where the fabric is ed through a vessel called trough where chemical is put. And then through nip rollers which squeeze the fabric. The speed and temperature of the machine is maintained according to the fabric type. The chemical gets bonded with the structure of the fabric while it comes out this result in harsh surface of the fabric so in the final stage softening finish is given to the fabric. Peach finish (Mechanical finish): Machine type: Zetma (advanced gamatex) Amerising machine: •

For smoothening the surface of the machine.

Calendar machine: •

Gives the fabric extra shine

•

Heating system. Heat is applied through steam.

Calendaring is a final process in which heat and pressure are applied to a fabric by ing it between heated rollers, imparting a flat, glossy, smooth surface. Luster increases when the degree of heat and pressure is increased. Calendaring is applied to fabrics in which a smooth, flat surface is desirable, such as most cottons, many linens and silks, and various man-made fabrics. In such fabrics as velveteen, a flat surface is not desirable, and the cloth is steamed while in tension, without pressing. When applied to wool, the process is called pressing, and employs heavy, heated metal plates to steam and press the fabric. Calendering is not usually a permanent process. Raising machine: This process is given to the fabric for improving the aesthetic value of it. There are two rollers in the machine and pins are protruding out of the outer surfaces of these rollers. When the fabric is rubbed with these surfaces the yarns of the fabric gets pulled outwards which gives a different feel. It gives flammel effect.

2. I. f. FINISH FOLDING 4 point inspection happens in randomly selected samples of the fabric rolls. A 4 point defect is considered a 2 defect and a 2 point defect is considered as a single defect. A sample from each roll is taken for shade sorting and grouping The reasons for the major defects (ex.-Crease, tight selvedge, stain) are analysed and a backup report is sent to the concerned department. Acc. to the variations After grouping, sent to checking for packing thela packing –India and Cartons are used for corduroy .Plastic covers are used for packing If the roll length is less than the specified length by the buyers, there are possibilities of rejection or discount. The shipment time also delays with defects and quality issues. In 100 mtrs 35 points are allowed. 4 point defects not more than 4 are allowed in 100metres. The packing and transferring data is fed simultaneously into the computer as the processes occur. Processing of the order is done in small parts. Requirement sheet comes from party and name of the method includes full detailing. Randomly reinspection is done for every 5-10% of the lot and reports are made every day. Pantaloon, Zodiac, Aditya, etc are major buyers of BVM.. According to size, fabric is classified into different categories: 1) Press( as Per buyers requirement)

2) Press Short length(If length is less than required) 3) Seconds(Continuous) 4) Good cut(Multiples of 1.3, etcmtrs) 5) Fent(45cm to 90 cmlength) 6) Dex(23to 44cm length) 7) <20cm long Chiwndy cleaning cloth 44 varities of type 7 are present. It is also used for children’s wear. 4 chain functions are present in the finish folding department: 1) Inspection 2) Feed back to concerned departments 3) Packing 4) Sampling - Sent to aspiring customers if they like the sample, the bulk is ordered. 

50,000 metres of fabric are inspected per day.



50,000 mtrs are packed per day

No. of workers are 78, ITI trainees are 15 and Unskilled workers are 20. Defects after finishing Dyeing :1) color stain 2) discharge daghi 3) dropping 4) dyed dhabba 5) Dyed tapki daghi 6) Dyed daghi 7) Dyeing crease 8) Dyeingpatches 9) Dyeing patta 10) Dyeing stopmark

11) Dyeing other 12) Group 13) Selvedge patta 14) Stitch impression 15) Watermark Bleaching: 1) Abrasion 2) Bleaching other 3) Crease 4) Hairiness 5) Backup Report:-1) hairiness 2) Hole 3) Tappi Daghi Finishing: 1) Abrasion 2) Blanket Impression 3) Bowing 4) Finishing others 5) Finish crease 6) Finish variation 7) Holes 8) Mild stain 9) Selvedge torn 10) Tapki daghi 11) Width variation

2. I. g. SQC QUALITY STANDARDS Stage-I: Quality control of the Input Materials such as Fiber, Yarns, Grey Fabrics, Chemicals and Dyes Stage-II: Quality control of the Process through surveillance at each manufacturing stage Stage III: Quality control of Final Products



Fully computerized & well-equipped in-house laboratory ensures high quality parameters from fiber to finished fabric including all other inputs.



Well-equipped physical and chemical testing laboratory to check all incoming materials and finished products for their strength and colour fastness, washing properties, shrinkage and shading, etc. as per international norms.



The quality of fabric is checked at grey and finished stages under 4-point grading system. Finally folding and packing department has roll to roll inspection facilities to ensure fault-free longer length quality fabric prior to its delivery to customers.



Moisture meter Aquadon: Portable digital moisture meter %of moisture is measured



USTER TESTER 4 SX has 3sensors: 1) Sensor OH for Hairiness: Uneveness %, Thin% thick%, Neps, Hariness, Standard

deduction(variation)

Diagram(cardiogram) 2) Sensor CS: Weighs

of

hairiness,

Relative

count,

Mass

3) Conveyer: - Movement of rolls. 

Follows Total Quality Management, People, technology, product and services.



Fully computerized and well equipped in house laboratory ensures high quality parameters from fiber to finished fabric including all other inputs.



The Equipment include Uster Hvi 900 Classic, Uster UT4-SX and Uster Classimat CMT-3, Data Colour Matching system SF 600, Ahiba Spectra Dye with Auto dispersing system, Labourtex Padder, dryer and pad steam.

TESTING INSTRUMENT FIBRE TESTING- Uster

MANUFACTURER Zell wager-uster

APPLICATION All cotton properties like

HVI-900 and bias software

Switzerland

length, strength, micronnaire,

MODEL Cotton trash analyzer

Statex eng. Ltd,

color, trash Trash%

Moisture meter

coimbatore Star electronics and

Moisture %of Bale cotton

Yarn Testing;

engineering, Baroda Zell wager-uster

yarn packages,etc Unevenness of sliver

Uster tester-4(UT-43x)

Switzerland

Roving and yarn(frequently

With hairiness module Uster classimat-3 with P.S.

Zell wager-uster

faulty) Seldom occurring faults like

High speed winder machine of Switzerland

short length, long

6 spindles KMI computerized electronic

P.S. Mattler Kamal metal Industries

length(Total 23 in number) Single yarn strength, fabric

tensile tester Af coset electronic count

Ahmedabad Straten eng. (p) ltd.

tensile strength Count Checking

balance model FX-300 Yarn appearance examination

Coimbatore Ten lab industries

For ASTM grade(yarn

machine Kmi electronic twist tester

Ahmedabad Kamal metal Industries

Appearance Board) For twist Checking- z&s

Double yarn twist tester

Ahmedabad Good Brand and Co. ltd

direction For twist Checking- z&s

Libra electronic digital

England Libra industries

direction For weight purposes

weighting balance model

Bombay

8801M

Fabric testing count checking

Good Brand and Co. ltd

instrument

England

Fabric Count Checking

KMI computerized electronic tensile tester

2. I. h PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL Overall in charge of production activities of all the departments, quality of finished products, total operation of production activities, waste reduction, judicious use of raw materials, spare parts etc. 

To arrange production activities as per the requirement of marketing department



To plan overtime work in various department, whenever necessary in consultation with unit head



Production scheduling and working out raw material requirements.



Process control and associated activities in all production department/sections, reviewing and disposition of nonconforming products during in process and final stages.



Monitoring and measurement of processes and product in his area and implementing appropriate corrective action to achieve planned results. Monitoring progress against quality objectives and continual improvement and projects in consultation.

The other functions of the PPC includes receiving inspection of all purchased products, in process and final inspection and testing, compilation and maintaining the result of defect analysis every month as applied to each manufacturing process, with hold in process and finished items not meeting the requirement and reporting to management. Note: 1.

More Delay in production occurs in rainy and summer seasons

2.

Major role in competition with other mills

3.

Main strengths of the industry is considered, dobby looms and

corduroy

4.

spinning produces 56,000 mtrs per day

5.

According

to

the

Customer

complaints,

satisfaction,

Monitoring of Process (marketing, purchasing/ stores, production, delivery, maintenance, QC, sales) happens with an Internal Audit. 6.

2 SQC persons are involved between the PPC department and

SQC, because complete coordination is required. 7.

currently, 80% of finishing department is utitlised

8.

10 days in a production season is provided for sampling

WEAVING PRODUCTION REPORT 2005 (AUGUST) DATE

DIRECT WARPING SECTIONAL WARPING

1 JAN. 2 FEB. 3 MAR. 4 APR. 5 MAY 6 JUNE 7 JULY 8 AUG 9 SEP 10 OCT 11NOV 12 DEC

1,16,057 1,39,965 1,83,930 2,15,145 1,48,637 2,00,030 2,36,681 1,82,045 1,74,445 2,02,798 2,26,520 2,54,805

(Beams/day) 18.3 17.7 17.5 19.4 19.9 16.8 18.4 20.9 17.56 17.25 20.2 19.5

LOOM PRODUCTION REPORT: MONTH 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

PRODUCTION/ MONTH (in meters) 9,58,086 9,17,783 10,00,738 10,02,280 9,14,719 8,80,885 10,42,005 9,25,160 9,84,231

SIZING (Total meters/ month) 11,29,615 10,65,695 10,38,715 11,34,925 10,42,630 9,99,580 11,71,366 10,60,245 10,78,500 11,26,240 10,43,453 12,19,719

10 11 12

10,00,596 _______ _______

2. I. h ENGINEERING The engineering department takes control over the overall maintenance of machineries, processing plans and utilities, Building maintenance, overall in charge of electric maintenance, Liaison work with Pollution Control Board, directorate of boiler and electrical inspectorate, Overall supervision of security department, Maintenance of telephones, both internal and external.

2. I. i EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT: 1. Equalization: It’s a primary treatment. Water coming from dyeing section is washed. It is then equalized or neutralized. 2. Reaction Tank: It’s a primary treatment. Piclic acid is used for slug formation, caustic for neutralization of the water. 3. Magna Block: Slug and solids present are settled and precipitated. 4. Clarifier tank: Further separation of lighter solids. 5. Supernant Tank: Complete separation of water 6. slug slump collection of solid slug 7. filter press compresses the slug 8. Aeration tank: In this oxidation and removal of odors takes place.

Supernant tank

Clarifier Tank

2. I. j. LABORATORY A laboratory in the manufacturing industry plays an important role in the production standards of the company. A sample production is carried out as per the proposed standards and variations required are analysed as per the practicality. Chemical processing done at a small scale sampling 3 main activities in lab: 1) Fabric dyeing: Detects absorbency 2) Yarn dyeing 3) Before absorbency and after shrinkage and fastness testing Lab Dyeing has two steps:

1. Lab dyeing before order for preparation before order and is matched with lab dip after drying over original fabric pieces, IPC department. 2. Lab to bulk correlation is done after RFD and finishing. If shade variation comes it is sent back to dyeing. RF dyeing: Ready for dyeing H2O2 improves whiteness. Dye lab and process control lab consists of the following equipments. Equipments for testing state of the fabric at the start and the end of the fabric 1) Wagner hot press. 2) Digi washer paramount 3) Washing machines: whirlpool 4) Tumble dryer 5) Oven 6) Tear tester: paramount 7) GSM cutter 8) Crock meter 9) PH meter 10) Microwave oven 11) Hank Preparation machine 12) Labortex padding machine 13) Labortex drying machine 14) Labortex pad steam 15) Data color dispenser: Combined lab dispenser and solution maker and is used for yarn dyeing. Manually, values are fed into the computer for the dye recipe and the recipe is combined automatically by the dispenser. It is only used for yarn dyeing, the concentration not enough for fabric dyeing. 16) Data color CCM-SF600 plus 17) Crease recovery tester Spectra photometer XW-2000 infrared sampling machine: Spectral value of the shade is determined. A Spectrometer scans the color and calculates the spectral value.

Dyeing Lab Equipment 1) Color computer matching SF-600 plus(DCI) 2) Ahiba Spectra dye(DCI) 3) DCI combine lab dispenser and solution maker(AUTOLAB YO) 4) Labortex padding mangle 5) Labortex mini dryer 6) Labortex pad steam range 7) Gretage macbeth view box 8) Judge ii view box Process Control Lab Equipment 1) Digiwash laundrometer 2) Tearing strength tester 3) Crock meter 4) GSM cutter 5) AATCC shrinkage ruler 6) Digital Ph meter 7) Wrinkle recovery tester 8) IFB, Miele Washing machines 9) IFB Tumble dryer 10) COD Assembly Dark Room GTI mini matcher Dye sampling is same for fabric and yarn. The prepared sample is wrapped in paper, washed and developed 1. Cold pad batch for reactive dyes 2. Steam pad dry for VAT dyes and light shades 3. Guhaust method: requires high temperature.

YARN DYEING MACHINE X-W-2000 Infra red sample dyeing machine Fabric is dyed in a separate lab room. Dye + caustic +silicate: This recipe is added to the trough of padding mangle machine, sample fabric inserted into it, then dried in the oven. Different pieces of fabric are stitched together so that all can be processed at the same time. Paramount Tearing strength tester is also present

Spectra photometer XW-2000 Infrared sampling machine

ISTRATION

Data color dispenser

2. II. a. RETAIL STORE DJ&C is a major brand of direct buyers of BVM. UPPERLOOK is an apparel brand of BVM. It has a retail outlet for its fabric in the company premises.

2. II. b. GENERAL ISTRATION MANAGING DIRECTOR: Exercises Overall control of all company activities, approves quality, ensures that quality policy and quality objectives are established, periodic review of the quality management system, ensuring availability of resources and communicating to the organization the importance of meeting customer as well as statutory and regulatory requirement. HEAD OF THE DEPARTMENTS:

Responsible for setting quality objectives in their areas and obtaining MD’s approval; also periodic review of progress against established objectives and continual improvement projects. HUMAN RESOURCE MANAGER Responsible for Consolidating training requirements and preparing training calendar based on approved training needs, Organizing requisite training programs inline with training calendar, Induction training for new entrants, Safety and welfare activities, Maintenance of training records. SECOND LEVEL MANAGERS Ensuring development, implementation and maintenance of quality management system, issue and control of the quality manual, quality system procedures, (and their revisions, resolving and taking appropriate actions on matters of conflicting nature on quality system, arranging periodical internal audits, reporting on the performance and any need for improvement, ensuring promotion of awareness of customer requirements through out the organization., coordinating management reviews, maintaining records of management reviews etc.

THIRD LEVEL MANAGERS Executing various decisions taken by the board and the management, day to day functions of the unit, overall responsibility for smooth functioning of all departments/sections and other related functions of the unit, participation in the committee for review and disposition of nonconforming product during various processing stages, approval of operational procedures applicable exclusively to the unit, Monitoring progress against quality objectives and continual improvement projects consolation with concerned HODs /Section Heads and MR.

2. II. c. HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT •

Hire The Best Add Value to Retain

•

Empower to Build Mutual Trust and Opportunity to Grow

•

Induction to BVM value system training imparts Behavior, Culture, Knowledge and Skill.

There exists a union, BVM workers union for the welfare and representation of the workers. There is a peaceful coexistence amongst the employees, workers and management. STAFF AND WORKERS Department

Staff

Workers

Spinning

19

414

Weaving Processing

63 40

862 233

-Dyeing Engineering Lab SQC Sales, Marketing,

44 26 20 57

104 10 0 144

grey & finish General

78

41

-Yarn dyeing -Bleaching

-finance -s

2. II. d. PERSONNEL Overall in charge of istration and personnel department, Looking after the duties of office istration, liaison works with labor department, inspector of factories, ESI, PF and other offices, Attend legal matters/court cases i.e. labor court, industrial tribunal, civil courts and labor departments, Discussing with trade union of factory with regard to production, discipline, grievances etc.,Settlement of terminal benefits of retired/VRS employees and those died in service, Submissions of periodical returns to various Govt. departments, To supervise the functions of Time Office as well as establishment, Maintenance of various files in connection with official, legal matters, court cases, disciplinary matters etc., Conducting domestic enquiries, initiating disciplinary proceedings against workers/staff., Recruitment and training.

MARKETING

2. III. a. MARKETING DEPARTMENT Responsible for overall in charge of marketing activities, entering into requisite agreements with dealers, agents, franchisees and monitoring their performance 

Identifying new products to be produced and also requirements of corporate customers



Consolidate monthly indents from showrooms, dealers, etc and present data in the monthly production review meetings



Maintain proceedings of monthly production review meeting and intimate production targets to all concerned



Finalization of sale prices in consultation with management and implements sales promotion schemes approved by managing director



Maintain communication with dealers on progress against indents and coordinating with dealers about the sales activities.

Mr. Kaushik Pandey is the HOD of marketing

2. III. b. DESPATCH DEPARTMENT The dispatch department is concerned with the dispatch of the ordered goods and its ing. The delivery details, the mode and the package details are recorded at this department. The following are the norms, conditions and functions followed by the dispatch department: 1) Carrying forward ex- mill deliveries. 2) Charging of Excise duty and all other government taxes to the customers. 3) Transport, bank commission, Insurance and any other charges are denoted to the buyers to be paid by them 4) If Hundi will be returned, interest will be charged at 30% per annum from the date of hundi and they can even propose to the managing system to cancel all pending contracts of the buyers 5) Settlement of claim of fabric at fabric stage only 6) ing the count, pick-reed variation is as per T/C standard 7) Notification to the buyers about delay of delivery. 8) Charging of interest on the goods not taken within 1o days, at 30% per annum.

2. III. c. DESIGN DEPARTMENT Deskloom The yarn sample which is developed in the lab, is used for development of small swatches using the desk loom which in turn is send to the buyer. If the sample is accepted by the buyer, they produce the bulk order which the PPC manipulates. There exists another sequence of order formation: The buyer provides the design/ weave pattern which is processed by the design section and provided to the deskloom for development, and the same process occurs Either way, the deskloom section plays a very important role in the development of fabric and order of it. 

The design of the sample is forwarded from the design section.



Sizing machine(small, winding and size spreading ) is present for prearation of the yarn for weaving.



Small samples of the size 6*16 inch are produced woven. Currently, 5 desk hand looms are present which produce 15 samples per day.



Total number workers who work in the design department are 9 to 10.

Design 3 designers and 4 trainees are present in this section who develop the design and the weave structure of the fabric as per buyer specifications or innovative fashion design release. They use CAD for development of the designs: The designs once developed are send to the marketing department who interact with the target customers and sent the report to the PPC who in turn notify the design department about the changes and to develop the final weave structure. 

The software use for design development is: TEXTRONICS



Dobby designs are developed using individual colors for the warp and weft and providing the intersection points as the dobby design.



A color card is used for detection of the color match.



Denting can also be done in the software(Since creel capacity is 480, the designs are done accordingly).

Scanned picture can be converted into a pixilated digital image which coverts into a jacquard design, the repeat size specified

PROCUREMENT

2. IV. a. PURCHASE Carries forward purchase activities since from the purchase requisition stage till settlement of payment to the supplier and is responsible for stores activities since from receipts stage to till ing departments as per their requirement against indents. Service contracts like transportation, calibration, maintenance, annual maintenance contract for computers, scales etc. and looking after day to day correspondence pertaining to stores and purchase department, pursuance of proposal which we sent to SPC for approval. 

Approved and completed orders are checked.



Vendors are selected from ASL (Approved Select List)



Due date for submission of tender is mentioned.



Tenders are opened in front of committee .



Comparative statements are prepared.



Intenders and departments are consulted for suitability of the items.



Proposal sheets are prepared with justifications/recommendations.



Proposal is placed before JPC (Junior Purchase Consultant) for approval.



PO (Purchase Order) is issued after the approval by JPC to the successful tender/supplier.



Suppliers are pursued for timely supplies.



Store department is informed for arrangement of inspections soon after the receipt of items/materials.



If items are accepted, then relevant document is sent to s department for payment to the supplier as per payment .



Rejected items are arranged.

2. IV. b. STORES Responsible for Receipt and inspection of finished products, Stock entry separately for accepted/rejected items, Separate storage of accepted/rejected items as per the conditions laid down in the procedure. Maintenance of stock ledger. Inspections of rejected materials for fixing discounts and declaring as seconds. Issue/receipt of materials: 

Incoming items are checked with reference to purchase order details.



Test certificate (TC)/ Test Report (TR) is checked.



Items are kept in designated place marked as ‘A waiting’ inspections.



Inspection of items by the Quality Control/ department is arranged.



The accepted materials are shifted to the reserved/designated locations.



Material inspection (MI) and Inspection Report (IR) are prepared, then signature is obtained of inspecting authorities, department heads, SPO (Store Purchase Officer) and UH (Unit

Head). In case of rejection, purchase department is informed for rectification and follow up). 

Entries are made in GIR (Goods Inward ).



PC (purchase Credit note) is prepared.



Material against complaint indents are issued after obtaining receivers signature.



Receipts, issues, consumptions of materials s are maintained in prescribed documents/ledgers/s.

2.

Storage and Preservation: 

Storage and preservation are arranged depending upon type, quality, and life of materials.

 3.

Items are checked once in a month.

Handling: Proper handlings equipments are used ton avoid damage, spoiling, wastage of materials.

4.

Store ing: 

Monthly statements of issues, consumptions are prepared and sent to s.



Receipt and pending order quantity are prepared.

Purchase statements are cashed

2. IV. c. COTTON DEPARTMENT 100% of the Raw material cotton/ cotton yarn fiber is composite. On an average the cotton fibre consumption is 50 bales per day. Various counts of cotton, (such as 40s etc.,) are consumed. The count of cotton will also depends on the type of fabric order and market conditions. 

A major amount of cotton is sourced from Gujarat (based at ahmedabad and manavadar), which is shanker quality.



The sourceing is done through agents and direct deals with trading companies such as vishal trading company.



MCV 5, PCH qualities are 50s count and are imported from USA.(12,000 bales were imported recently.



Cotton yarn produced is 125 metric tonne per month(28,000 spindles)(upto march 2006) but from march 2006 the spinning mill has been expanded. The consumption of yarn in april was 200 metric tonne. T



he deficient yarn quantity is provided by a supplier range namely arun textile, kkp spinning, in salem, Nahar, Vardhman, Raja palyam mills, etc.



The superior count of yarn bought is 2/80s and 2/100s counts. Gold / silver coated yarn is also bought.

2. IV. d. WASTE DEPARTMENT The waste generated is tender every month. Ahmedabad cotton waste merchant association dalal within 15 days of tender If the Quantity of waste more the waste is tendered at the rate of 1000 kg/ day(at an average rate of 35 rs/kg) 1. Trumat cuttling rs. 28 2. Luma file 38 rs/ kg 3. Comber waste mixed count 35 rs/kg 4. Cool zool 12 rs(50kg per day) 5. Cleaning wasters 13/KG, 50KG/DAY 6. Dropping 9-10rs/kg 200kg/day 7. Fly17-18rs/kg, 15-25 kg/day 8. Colored airjet waste 9. White airjet 10. Oiling waste 11. Soft waste 12. Hard waste perday VAT 4% is added in the costing of the waste .

Ex: Sundar waste, Niranjan waste are the waste buying agents. The waste sales produce around 5-6 crores Rs per year. WASTE PRODUCTION REPORT: MONTH

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

TOTAL

LOOMSHED

WEAVING +

WINDNG

WEAVING

WASTE

SIZING

WASTE

3.41 4.06 3.38 3.26 3.63 3.41 3.62 3.82 3.99 4.1 3.9

WASTE 2.44 2.86 2.64 2.04 2.28 2.34 2.09 1.94 2.3 2.04 1.94

1.15 1.12 1.09 1.32 1.21 1.10 1.35 1.30 1.39 1.21 1.12

WASTE 5.47 6.60 5.40 5.01 5.52 5.09 5.39 5.59 5.99 5.96 5.68

FINANCE

2. V. S FINANCIAL EXPANSION STATUS The Textile division increased its turnover by 30% to Rs.194.44 crore in 2004-05, ing for 27% of the Company's turnover of which domestic turn over has increased by 62% and production has been grown by 21% over the previous year. Net revenue for the year 04-05 is Rs.188.61 crores which is grown by 32% over the previous year. The previous year was the first full year of working of the expanded capacity of 18 mn metres per annum and the business arrangement with Canclini Tessile S.p.A, the only such association within the industry with a reputed international textile company. The Company serviced brand-enhancing customers like

Van Heusen, Louis Phillip, Allen Solly, Peter England, Park Avenue and Pantaloons with larger volumes. Value addition: Introduction of value-added products (structured fabrics with higher thread counts in the shirting segment, yarn-dyed corduroy shirting and Pima cotton yarn-based corduroy fabric in the corduroy segment). Prompt settlement of supplier bill, Participation in committee for evaluation and selection of new suppliers, Collecting information from units regarding for cash flow, MIS and other necessary information, Preparation of balance sheet, Maintenance of s relating to corporation, Scrutiny of wages bill and other bills connected to business transactions, Liaison with banks, AG audits/statutory auditors, PF and ESI office etc

SINTEX INDUSTRIES LIMITED REGD. OFFICE :- Near Seven Garnala, Kalol (North GUJARAT) - 382 721. AUDITED FINANCIAL RESULTS FOR THE FINANCIAL YEAR ENDED 31st MARCH 2006 (Rs. In lacs) .

Particulars

Nine Months Ended on

Quarter Ended on

31/12/2005

31/3/06

31/03/05

Year Ended on 31/03/2006 (Audited)

Year Ended on 31/03/2005 (Audited)

Quarter Ended on

1

Net Sales / Income from Operations

[1] 53538.29

[2] 31804.15

[3] 24186.04

[4] 85342.44

[5] 65871.56

2

Other Income

1381.33

1597.62

12.02

2978.95

1053.02

3

Total Income

54919.62

33401.77

24198.06

88321.39

66924.58

4

Total Expenditure

43908.65

27004.85

19865.65

70913.50

54553.23

(a) (Increase)/ Decrease in Stock in Trade

(185.54)

1032.58

(2112.24)

847.04

(1873.25)

(b) Consumption of Raw Material

30975.93

20077.72

17310.58

51053.65

41486.77

(c) Consumption of Stores & Spare parts

3908.81

1622.08

2096.06

5530.89

4859.02

(d) Staff Cost

2427.51

1314.94

832.30

3742.45

3055.00

(e) Other Expenditure Interest

6781.94 2082.51

2957.53 826.75

1738.94 602.06

9739.47 2909.26

7025.69 2485.26

6

Depreciation

2233.12

835.37

668.29

3068.49

2825.03

7

Profit (+) / Loss (-) Before Tax

6695.34

4734.81

3062.07

11430.15

7061.06

- Current Tax (Incl.FBT)

1886.97

(152.51)

304.13

1734.46

758.50

- Deferred Tax

(309.91)

801.29

633.55

491.38

1290.51

5118.28

4086.03

2124.39

9204.31

5012.05

5

8

Provision for Taxation

9 Profit After Tax & Before Prior Period Items Excess/(Short) Provision of Taxation earlier 10

Year(Net) Profit After Tax

5118.28

(2.66) 4083.37

378.63 2503.02

(2.66) 9201.65

378.63 5390.68

11

Paid - up Equity Share Capital (face

1847.67

1973.17

1847.67

1973.17

1847.67

42973.39

32371.44

12

value of Rs. 2 each) See Note :3 Reserve and Surplus (Excluding Revaluation Reserves ) (See Note - 7)

13 Earning per share of Rs.2/- each (Rs.)

14

-Basic EPS

5.54

4.40

3.32

9.95

7.14

-Diluted EPS

5.04

3.96

3.20

8.93

7.10

- Number of Shares

61284125

66084125

61284125

66084125

61284125

- Percentage of Shareholding

66.34%

66.98%

66.34%

66.98%

66.34%

Aggregate of Non-Promoter Shareholding

Notes: 1

The above Financial Results were reviewed by the Audit Committee and were thereafter taken on record by the Board of Directors at its meeting held on April 25, 2006.

2

The Board of Directors have recommended dividend @ 44 % i.e. Rs.0.88 per equity share for the year 2005-06,subject to approval of shareholders.

3

Equity Share of Rs.10/- has been sub-divided in to Five Eqity Shares of Rs.2/- each, hence all related references for the previous year periods have been restated for the sake of comparability.

4

62,75,000 equity shares were allotted during the period 23rd March, 2006 to 31st March, 2006 consequent to exercise of 12,55,000 warrants out of 31,85,000 warrants issued in 2004-05 and outstanding on 31/03/05 at Rs.56.02 per share. Further, the holders of 19,30,000 remaining warrants in respect of the said issue are entitled to apply for five equity shares per warrant at any time up to 31st July, 2006

5

During the year the Company issued USD 50 million Zero Coupon Foreign Currency Convertible Bonds due 2010. The bonds are convertible into 1,19,56,575 shares at any time upto 14th September, 2010. Subsequent to 31st March, 2006, FCCBs aggregating to US$ 8.5 million (Rs.3731.50 lacs) have been converted into 20,32,616 equity shares upto 24th April, 2006.

6

The Company has received Rs.15021.76 lacs from proceeds of preferential allotment of equity shares/ warrants up to 31.03.2006. The proceeds have been utilised for capital expenditure of Rs.9655.32 lacs including ongoing capital expenditure of Rs.3070.47 lacs and for repayments of loans of Rs.5366.44 lacs

7 8

Reserve is reduced by Rs.16500 lacs on of adjustment of Brand Value. There were no Investors' complaints pending as on 01-01-06. Complaints received and disposed off during the quarter were 16 each and no

Rs. in lacs

BALANCE SHEET AS AT 31ST MARCH SOURCES OF FUNDS:

Schedules

Rupees

Share Capital

1

1847.67

Reserves & Surplus

2

48871.44

2005

2004

Rupees

Rupees

Shareholders' Funds:

Share Warrants-Fully Convertible

1456.17 33742.01 50719.11

35198.18

1392.12

-

(See Note 6- Schedule 20)

Loan Funds : Secured Loans

3

33822.26

29822.23

Unsecured Loans

4

18.66

35.49

Deferred Tax Liability (Net) (See Note 13-Schedule 20 )

33840.92

29857.72

5703.56

4413.05

TOTAL

91655.71

69468.95

APPLICATION OF FUNDS

Fixed Assets: Gross Block

66942.44

62951.62

Less: Depreciation

5

17598.33

14926.48

Net Block

49344.11

48025.14

2962.47

1833.20

Capital Work in Progress

Investments:

6

52306.58

49858.34

16746.75

5686.22

Current Assets, Loans & Advances: Inventories

7

10684.68

7545.67

Sundry Debtors

8

14811.39

11572.65

9

7831.52

1922.80

10

4445.16

3598.76

Cash & Bank Balances Loans & Advances

Less: Current Liabilites & Provisions

37772.75

24639.88

15780.65

11035.38

21992.10

13604.50

12

610.28

319.89

TOTAL

91655.71

69468.95

11

Net Current Assets

Miscellaneous Expenditure (To the extent not written off or adjusted)

Significant ing Policies

19

Notes forming part of s and Contingent LIabilites

20

Segment Wise Revenue, Results and Capital Employed For Financial Year ended 31st March 2006. (Rs. In lacs) Sr.

Particulars

No.

1

2

Nine Months

Quarter

Quarter

Year Ended on

Year Ended on

Ended on

Ended on

Ended on

31/03/2006

31/03/2005

31/12/2005

31/03/06

31/03/05

(Audited)

(Audited)

Segment Revenue a) Textile

17625.78

7307.00

6507.87

24932.78

19096.29

b) Plastics

36306.94

24479.23

17566.51

60786.17

47497.64

c) Un allocated

221.63

115.43

54.02

337.06

141.51

Total

54154.35

31901.66

24128.40

86056.01

66735.44

Less: Inter Segment Revenue

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

0.00

Total Revenue

54154.35

31901.66

24128.40

86056.01

66735.44

a) Textile

2549.06

1359.35

1315.39

3908.41

3090.22

b) Plastics

5268.88

2598.33

2227.32

7867.21

6148.39

c) Un allocated

959.91

1603.88

121.42

2563.79

307.71

Total

8777.85

5561.56

3664.13

14339.41

9546.32

Less : Interest

2082.51

826.75

602.06

2909.26

2485.26

Total Profit before Tax:

6695.34

4734.81

3062.07

11430.15

7061.06

14875.16

Segment Result Profit/Loss (before tax and interest from each segment)

3

Capital Employed (Segment Assets - Segment Liabilities) : a) Textile

17482.96

24086.40

14875.16

24086.40

b) Plastics

20775.86

12175.12

5692.87

12175.12

5692.87

c) Others

23360.46

14969.03

37246.76

14969.03

37246.76

Total

61619.28

51230.55

57814.79

51230.55

57814.79

Notes: 1

The Company is organized into two main business segments, namely: Textile - Fabric and Yarn Plastic - Water Tanks, Doors, Windows, Prefab, Sections, etc. Segments have been identified and reported taking into the nature of products and services, the differing risks and returns, the organization structure, and the internal financial reporting systems.

2

Segment revenue in each of the above business segments primarily includes sales service charges, rent, profit on sale of Fixed Assets (net), Miscellaneous sales and Export Incentive.

3

Figures for the previous year/quarter have been re-grouped / rearranged wherever necessary.

Disclaimer clause: The information furnished above is certified by Sintex Industries Limited to be true, fair and accurate (except in respect of errors in or omissions from documents filed electronically that result solely from electronic transmission errors beyond our control and in respect of which we take corrective action as soon as it is reasonably practicable after becoming aware of the error or the omission). SEBI, the Stock Exchanges or the NIC do not take any responsibility for the accuracy, validity, consistency and integrity of the data entered and updated by it. Name of the compliance officer : Mr. L.M. Rathod C.F.O & Company Secretary Sintex Industries Limited Kalol (N.G.) - 382 721

Rs. in lacs PROFIT & LOSS FOR THE YEAR ENDED 31 ST MARCH INCOME:

Schedules

Gross Sales Less: Excise duty & Sales Tax recovered on Sales Net Sales

Rupees

2005

2004

Rupees

Rupees

71516.37

58077.54

5644.81

5108.39

65871.56

52969.15

Other Income

13

1053.02

875.71

Increase in stock of Finished and Process stock

14

1873.25

882.23 68797.83

54727.09

EXPENDITURE: Raw Materials consumed

15

31814.72

25437.04

Employees' Emoluments

16

3055.00

2646.22

Manufacturing & other expenses

17

21556.76

16834.96

Interest and finance charges

18

2485.26

2623.68

Depreciation

2825.03

Profit before Taxes

2263.45 61736.77

49805.35

7061.06

4921.74

Provision for Taxation Current Tax

758.50

Deferred Tax

1290.51

PROFIT AFTER TAX & BEFORE PRIOR PERIOD ITEMS Excess/(Short) provision of taxation of earlier years (Net) PROFIT AFTER TAX Balance brought forward from previous year Profit available for Appropriations

545.00 995.10 2049.01

1540.10

5012.05

3381.64

378.63

(15.51)

5390.68

3366.13

7533.10

7302.53

12923.78

10668.66

0.00

126.54

739.07

436.85

APPROPRIATIONS: Interim Dividend - Preference Shares Proposed Dividend - Equity Shares Tax on Dividend

96.60

72.17

General Reserve

1000.00

1000.00

Capital Redemption Reserve

0.00

1500.00

11088.11

7533.10

12923.78

10668.66

Basic

35.71

22.14

Diluted

35.49

22.14

Balance carried to Balance Sheet TOTAL

Earnings per share ( Refer Note 15 of Schedule 20 )

Significant ing Policies

19

Notes forming part of s and Contingent Liabilities

20

3. CONCLUSION Plant Capacities -

Overall capacity22 million meters per annum

-

Can deliver finished widths up to 63 inch

-

Plant specifically designed for varied product mix ( 115 GSM to 450 GSM)

-

Can handle 100% Cotton as blended fabric

-

Equipped to provide specialized finishes

-

Testing and QC Lab equipped to satisfy most discerning customers

-

On line quality checking system

TECHNOLOGY A tradition of continuous modernization and up-gradation of technology has enabled BVM in becoming globally competitive. It is fully geared to offer international quality textile products, manufactured to the latest trends and styles.

Machineries and Capabilities: -

Spinning Division : 30000 spindles

-

Trumac Blow Room (2000)DK780 Cards (2000)

-

RSB1 Draw Frame from Rieter (1999)

-

LK 250 Comber (2002)

-

LF 1400 Speed Frames Textool Ring Frame (2000)

-

TFO Vijay laxmi (2000)

Winding Section Murata & Schlafhorst, Automatic 238 and 338 models. All the machines are equipped with Automatic Splicing, Electronic Yarn Clearers and other automatic devices. LoomShed 38 Air-jet and 123 Rapier looms from PICANOL. (Year of Installation - 1999) The existing Rapier looms are capable of producing checks of 4 to 8 colors in weft and are equipped with dobbies which can produce designs up to 22 shafts. 72 more Omni Air Jet looms with the capacity of producing fault-free cloth. Processing Machineries Selected latest state of the art, eco friendly, open-width continuous process system ensuring consistent whiteness / shade across and along the fabric, higher productivity and shorter lead times. It consists of pretreatment machineries like the Osthoff Singeing with eco friendly dust free Vibra plus cleaning system. Goller Desizing, washing, bleaching and mercerizing machines. High level of automation and on-line on-site process control gives high degree of consistency and reproductivity. Criteria of selecting technology in BVM are: - Maximum possible accuracy first time, on time and every time. - Eco- friendly technology - Economizing on water, energy and salt utilization.

Pretreatment Machineries - OSTHOFF singing - Goller desize - EFFECTA Washer- Goller - Continuous Bleaching - Goller - OPTIMA Chainless Mercerize-Goller Fabric Dyeing Fully computerized German machineries from the Kusters, Bruckner and Goller are present. All continuous machines with automatic colour kitchens and all level micro processor controls are installed for better productivity and quality in shorter lead time. Dyeing machineries (year of installation) -

Cold-pad batch- KUESTERS ( 2001 )

-

Pad-dry - BRUECKNER ( 2001 )

-

Pad-steam-Goller ( 2001 )

-

FONG's / STAFFI Yarn Dyeing Machines ( 1998 )

-

RF- dryer ( 1998 )

-

Shrinking range - MONFORTS

-

Stenter- BRUCKNER

Finishing machineries

An excellent management system provides the backbone to the development process of the instition.