Textile Internship Report 193a5p

Textile Internship Report

Aditya Birla Nuvo-Jaya Shree Textiles Bachelor of Fashion Technology (2014-2018) Internees:

Industry Mentor:

Meezan Alam (BFT/14/1504)

Mr Manoj. R. Kumar

Shivani Sneha (BFT/14/169)

DGM-Processing

Semester-V

Mr Rajesh. K. Nair

NIFT Kolkata

DGM-Quality Assurance

Academic Mentor: Prof. Bibekananda Banerjee NIFT Kolkata

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Table of Content Serial No

Page No

Topic

1

3

Acknowledgement

2

4

Internship Objective

3

5

4

10

Introduction to the Industry  Jaya Shree Textiles  Company Profile  Organisation Structure Linen-An Introduction to Flax Fiber

5

12

6

16

7

19

8

42

9

57

Remarks

Cultivating, Harvesting and Preparation of Fiber Design and Development Spinning  Raw Material  Sorting  Hackling  Drawing  Roving  Bleaching  Ring Spinning  Radio Frequency Dryer  Winding  Packing Weaving  Yarn segregation  Warping  Drawing  Gaiting  Weaving Pre-Treatment Process  Singeing cum Desizing  Continuous Bleaching Range

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10

64

11

86

12

99

13

119

14

129

Dyeing Yarn Dyeing  Package Dyeing  Hank Dyeing  Hydro Extraction  Radio Frequency Drier Piece Dyeing  Pad-Batch Dyeing(Exhaust Dyeing) Jig Dyeing Jet Dyeing  Semi-Continuous Dyeing Kustrers Cold Pad Batch Dyeing  Continuous Dyeing Finishing  Stenter  Calendering  Sanforizing  Folding  Rotormat Quality Control  Physical Lab  Dyeing Quality Department  Testing Warehouse  Inspection of Grey Fabric  Warehouse Machines at Jaya Shree Textiles  Inspection of Finishes Fabric and Packaging  Yarn Packaging Learning Interesting Facts

15

134

Bibliography

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Acknowledgement The internship opportunity we had from National Institute of Fashion Technology was a great chance for learning and professional development. We consider ourselves as very lucky individuals as we were provided with an opportunity to be a part of it. It gives us great pleasure in acknowledging the and help of our departmental faculty Mr. Jyoti Prakash Behera who constantly helped us in getting our internship confirmed at Jaya Shree Textiles. We thank Ms. Sritapa Bera for guiding us through the HR processes and accepting our request to learn as an intern at this prestigious Industry. It is with immense gratitude that I acknowledge the and help of our Academic Mentor Prof. Bibekananda Banerjee. His throughout consideration and sincere guidance helped us covering up each and every topic for the successful completion of this Internship Report. We owe our deepest gratitude to our Industry mentors Mr Manoj. R. Kumar, (DGM-Processing Department) as well as Mr Rajesh Nair, (DGM-Quality Control Department) for the valuable guidance, advice, useful comments, remarks and engagement throughout the learning process of this project and sharing his precious time with us during the internship. I would like to thank Mr. Krishan Chobey and Mr. Partho for explaining us about the topics from time to time which gave us the possibility to complete this report. Last but not the least we deeply appreciate the guidance provided by the operators and staffs at Jaya Shree Textiles who were a helping hand at every next step. Thank you Jaya Shree Textiles.

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Internship Objective  To understand the concept of spun yarn production, grey fabric production, dyeing, printing and finishing of fabric, textile testing and their quality aspects both technical as well as for commercial purpose.  To develop an understanding of the basic concept of Quality and PPC.  To analyse the Hazard, Inspection, Risk and Assessment for the processing machines.  To learn the SOP (Standard Operating Process) of machines available at the Industry

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Jaya Shree Textiles The incredible fabric Linen is the oldest fabric woven on earth. The human civilisation reached a pinnacle of achievement when Linen was discovered. Linen has a wealth of properties that almost no other natural fabric can boast of. It has retraced the history of this astounding garment of Mother Nature. We shall come across the glimpses of glory and elegance that defines the erstwhile royal fabric once adorning the monarchs of the world. It was the Egyptian who first discovered the Flax plant from which Linen was woven. The ancient Egyptians believed that Linen was a gift of God and regarded it as sacred. Although the world has seen much by the 20th century, this incredible fabric was first brought to India by Jaya Shree Textiles in the year 1949. This was the first time any major investment was made in of Linen in the Indian subcontinent. Sourcing the raw fibres from Belgium and . Jaya Shree Textiles manufactures linen under the brand Linen Club. Linen fabrics have a high natural lustre. Their natural colour ranges between shades of ivory, ecru, tan or grey. Linen is a natural breathing fabric that is naturally antibacterial. When freed from impurities Linen is highly absorbent and will quickly remove perspiration from skin. It also feels cool to the touch. As a natural cover from the sun, Linen is UV-protective. Linen is also the strongest of the vegetable fibres that is 3 times as much stronger than cotton. Linen is still a very fashionable fabric as it was in the oldest of times adding to the range of natural Linen material. Linen Club offers Linen in the variants of Linen with Cotton, Linen with Rayon, Stretch Linen, Linen modal, Linen silk. Fashion designers around the world are captivated by the fluidity of Linen and the way it can be draped and styled as a garment. At Linen Club, renowned Italian designer Mario Talli Nencioni, Raffaela Palmieri are the head of deg and inspiring a group of designers. Each season is updated with the latest in fashion in of design, colour and product development. The retail presence extends widely across India. Linen is a fabric that if taken care of will last a life time.

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Company Profile NAME OF COMPANY

JAYA SHREE TEXTILES

ADDRESS

HEAD OFFICE & PRODUCTION UNIT Jaya Shree textiles Aditya Birla Nuvo Limited PO: Prabhasnagar 712249 Dist. Hooghly, West Bengal, India

PHONE NO.

+91-33-2672 1146

WEBSITES

adityabirla_abnl.com/www.linenclub.org

FAX NO.

+91-33-2672 2626

PRODUCT TYPE

suiting, shirting and dress materials

TOTAL WORKERS

8000

STAFF PROFILE Foreman Sr. Foreman 1% 0% Asst 11% Sr. Asst 8%

MT GET President Sr. VP 2% GM 0% 0% 1% 3%

DGM 4% AGM 4% Sr. Mgr 4% Mgr 8%

Dy. Mgr 4% Asst. Officer 18%

Asst. Mgr 8%

Officer 12%

Sr. Officer 12%

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Achievements  1997 Award for excellence in Human Resource Management by ICMF‟s Birla Economic Textile Research Foundation  2000 Chairman‟s Bronze Award for Manufacturing Excellence by Corporate World Class Manufacturing  2001 Golden Peacock National Quality Award in the Manufacturing (Large Units) Category by the Institute of Directors (IOD)  2002 Chairman‟s Silver Award for Manufacturing Excellence by Corporate World Class Manufacturing  2002 Export Performance Awards year after year (1981 and onwards)  2003 HRD awards – Certificate of Appreciation by CII (ER)  2003 National Energy Conservation Award in Textile Sector – FIRST  2004 National Energy Conservation award in Textile Sector – SECOND  2004 Second Prize in textile sector, National Energy conservation Award – given by the ministry of power, government of India  2008 Performance Excellence Trophy – Ramakrishna Bajaj Quality Award

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Certification ISO 9001: 2008, ISO 14001: 2004, OHSAS 18001: 2007 and SA 8000: 2008 certified Company Jaya Shree Textiles meets all the regulatory and statutory norms like Environment & Pollution Control, Safety Systems, and Care for Society, maintaining all the Social Standards and Quality norms. Safety committee looks into compliance of all safety regulations. Other regulations such as pollution control, environment control, etc. are compiled by establishing Environment Management System as per ISO 14001 standards. A certified Audit Farm carries out financial audit and the report circulated to all shareholders. Last but not the least the company has achieved a Six-Sigma Classification.

Mission “To be a preferred supplier of wool tops, flax yarns, worsted yarns & fabrics to chosen market segments and provide total customer satisfaction through thrust on cost, quality, speed and innovation”

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Organisation Structure The unit is headed by Mr. S. Krishnamoorthy, who is the President Textile. The company has 4 strategic business units which are further segregated according to the ing functions required.

The Spinning, Processing and Weaving department have their own structure such as:

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Linen-An Introduction to Flax Fiber Linen is a textile material made from the bast fibres of the flax plant (fig1.1), Linum usitatissimum. Flax is an annual plant, which means it only lives for one growing season. From seed-planting, it is ready to be harvested in about a hundred days. Unless the weather is particularly warm and dry, flax requires little watering or attention during this time. It grows to about three or four feet tall, with glossy bluishgreen leaves and pale blue flowers. The flax fiber is composed basically of the substance, cellulose. Linen is usually an expensive textile, and is produced in relatively small quantities. It has a long "staple" (individual fiber length) relative to cotton and other natural fibre.

Figure 1.1 Flax Plant

PROPERTIES OF LINEN:  Strength: 5.5-6.5 g/d. Linen is durable and 2-3 times stronger than cotton.  Moisture Regain: 10 -12 %  Elongation: Low (3%)  Abrasion resistance: Low  Thermal conductivity: Fair  Dimensional stability: Poor  Elasticity: Poor elasticity Figure1.2 Microscopic view of Linen and does not spring back readily, explaining why it wrinkles so easily Page | 10

 Resilience: It has little resilience therefore it wrinkles a lot but there is a wrinkle resilience treatment for the fabric.  Drapability: Linen has more body than cotton and drapes somewhat better.  Heat Conductivity: Linen is most suitable for summer apparel as it allows the heat of the body to escape.  Absorbency: It absorbs moisture and dries more quickly than cotton. It is therefore excellent for handkerchiefs and towels.  Cleanliness and Wash ability: Linen launders well and gives up strains readily; its softness is enhanced by repeated washings.  Reaction to Bleaches – Linen doesn‟t stain as readily as cotton, it‟s more difficult to bleach as well.  Shrinkage – Linen doesn‟t shrinks more. it shrinks less than cotton.  Effect of Heat – Linen scorches and flames in a manner similar to cotton.  Effect of Light – Linen is more resistant to light than cotton, but it will gradually deteriorate from protracted exposure.  Resistance to Mildew –Linen is vulnerable to mildew.  Resistance to Insects –Linen is not damaged by moths. Damage by other insects is uncommon.  Reaction to Alkalis – Linen, like cotton, is highly resistant to alkalis. Linen may also be mercerized.  Reaction to Acids – Linen is damaged by hot dilute acids and cold concentrated acids – but not by cold dilute acids.  Affinity for Dyes – Linen doesn‟t have good affinity for dyes.  Resistance to perspiration – Acid perspiration will deteriorate linen. Alkali perspiration will not cause deterioration but it either case discoloration.  Exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather.  It has a long "staple" (individual fiber length) relative to cotton and other natural fibers.  The natural color of flax varies from light ivory to tan color.  Fiber length varies between 2” – 36”.  Linen fabrics are „lint‟ free because there are no short fibers.

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Cultivating, Harvesting and Preparation of Fiber There are three processes involved for the production of Linen Fiber  Cultivation  Harvesting  Preparation of the fibre Cultivating: The flax plant requires deep, rich, well ploughed soil and a cool, damp climate. Warm weather affects the growth and the quality of the fiber. Harvesting: When the flax turns brownish in color, which indicates that the plant is about to mature, it is ready for harvesting. There must be no delay at this stage; otherwise the fiber will lose its prized luster and soft texture. The stalks are tied in bundles, called beets. Preparation of The Fiber: Pulling- Flax fiber is pulled by hand or by mechanical pullers to keep the roots intact. If flax is cut, the fibers become permanently discoloured. Harvesting occurs in late August when the plant is a rich golden brown colour. Rippling- After drying, the flax is rippled. The seeds and the leaves are removed from the stems of the flax plant by ing the stalks through coarse combs. Retting- The bundles of plants are then steeped in water so that the tissue or woody bark surrounding the hair like flax fiber will decompose, thus loosening the gum that hold the fiber to the stem. Following are the three different kinds of retting:  Dew retting  Vat or mechanical retting  Chemical retting

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Dew retting:  It involves the spreading of flax on the ground, where it is exposed to the action of dew and sunlight.  The natural method of retting gives uneven results but provides the strongest and most durable linen.  It requires a long period of time.  Average exposure time is 4-6 weeks. Pool retting:  It is a process in which flax is packed in sheaves and immersed in pools of stagnant water.  Bacteria develop in water and rot away the stalk covering.  After retting the water is drained away and flax is dried.  Pool retting requires 2-4 weeks. Vat, or Mechanical, Retting: It requires the stalks to be submerged in vats of warm water, hastening the decomposition of the stem. The flax is then removed from the vats and ed between rollers to crush the bark as clean water flushes away the pectin and other impurities. This method used primarily in Belgium, , Northern Ireland, and the United States. Linen produced by this method is more susceptible to mildew. Chemical retting: Most manufacturers use chemicals for retting. The plants are placed in a solution either of alkali or oxalic acid, then pressurized and boiled. This method is easy to monitor and rather quick. Chemical retting adversely affects the color and strength of the fiber. After the retting process, the flax plants are squeezed and allowed to dry out before they undergo the process called breaking. (Different kinds of retting affects the color and the quality of flax or linen) Breaking- The stalk becomes partially separated from the fiber when the wet plants are placed in the fields to dry. In order to crush the decomposed stalks, they are sent through fluted rollers which break up the stem and separate the exterior fibers from the bast that will be used to make linen. This process breaks the stalk into small pieces of bark called shives. Scutching- The scutching machine of removes the broken shives by means of rotating wooden paddles, thus finally releasing the flax fiber from the stalk.

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Combing- The simple combing process straightens the flax fibers, separates the shorter from the long staple, and leaves the longer fibers in parallel formation. The very finest flax fibers are called line or dressed flax, and the fibers may be anywhere from 12-20 in (30.5-51 cm) in length. Carding- The short-staple flax fibers, called tow are used for the spinning of irregular linen yarns. Tow is put through a carding operation, similar to the carding of cotton staple, which straightens the fibers and forms into a silver ready for spinning into yarn. The long-staple fibers are used for fine linens. These are called line, sometimes dressed flax. Line fibers are from 12 to 20 inches (30-50cm) in length.

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The Brain of the Industry

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Design & Development Design and Development department in Jaya Shree Textiles has a significant part in the production. It works in two segments- RMG/Export and OTC. Between these two 65% of total production happens in OTC and 35% in RMG. The SAP software is used here in Design and Development department.

Flow Chart of Design and Development Process Design and Development

RMG/Export

OTC

No Sampling Department

Buyer

Is the sample Correct?

Yes Bulk Production

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RMG (party buyer) In this part the company produces according to the order placed by buyers. Different buyers‟ places order of fabric and according to the order the design department first prepares the specification sheet. Then it is sent to the sampling department, where sample is prepared for the respective order. Then it is sent to the Buyer for approval of the sample. If it is approved by the buyer then bulk production takes place. And if any changes are required according to the buyer then the design department makes the changes and again it is sent to the buyer. Then after receiving approval from the buyer bulk production takes place. The quality of the fabric depends on the order placed by the buyer.

OTC (over the counter) In this part production takes place for retail buyer and for Linen Club. The design department prepares design for the different seasons according to the survey by the fashion forecasters. A famous Italian designer Mr. Mario visits the company every three months and provides his adequate knowledge about recent global fashion (mainly European). According to all these the design department prepares the Specification Sheet and it is sent to the sampling department. After the sample is made it is sent to the design department and when it approved by the design department mass production for the respective design takes place. Quality of the fabric produced for OTC most- 60L, 40L, and 25L. Jayashree textiles has a very well developed design studio at linen club. Renowned Italian Designer Mr Mario Talli Nencioni and Raffaela Palmieri are at the helm of leading and inspiring creative design team. The studio is fully equipped with latest textile design. Here, Texcad is used for the development of designs; SAP system has been also installed for data storage and ease of access. Designers over here prepare designs according to the market trends and forecasts. Every collection includes thousands of designs, color ways and textures. Apart from that, the brand Linen Club has various elite designers who have worked with the label Mr.Rohit Bal, the famous international designer has always been the face and soul of the brand. Other than him there have been other people who have shared their talents with the group. They are: Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna, TarunTahilani, Ritu Kumar, Priyadarshani Rao, Sabyasachee Mukherjee, Rocky S and many more. Page | 17

Working Procedure There are two types of collections launched every year. They are: Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer. For each season around 1000 new designs are presented by their designers to their retailers, OTC and certain customers. All the in-house designers frequently meet to discuss, debate and contemplate the latest trends, fashion, colour in the market and then the designers put on all their efforts to make their exemplary designs. The outcome of this process is an exuberant range of master work, which mesmerizes their customers and thus results in the placement of large no. of orders.

Selection of Designs The designers first make designs with the help of Texcad, which are then converted into blankets which contain a combination of maximum 6 colors. The blanket is sent for weaving outside the factory by some outsourced weavers. After the blanket is weaved and received by the design department, it is then shown to the Mr.Abhay Nair Sir, the senior Vice-President of Jaya Shree Textiles and Mr.Sarnath Sarpute, the Design Head who select and reject the designs to be constructed on looms. The selected designs are then sent for making sample cards.

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Spinning Process Flow Chart of Linen Spinning Raw Material Flax Fiber from Belgium and

Bleaching Bleach/Boil of Grey Rove

Sorting

Wet Spinning

Bunch making of 100+/-10 gm

Making Yarn from Rove

Hackling

RF Drying

Fiber separation and making Sliver from bunch

Drying of Wet Yarns

Drawing

Winding

Fiber Parallelization and Fiber uniformity by doubling and drafting

Removal of Yarn Faults and Making Cone/PSPD on Auto corner

Roving

Packing

Making Rove from Sliver

Packing of Finished Material (Cone/PSDP) Page | 19

Raw Material The raw materials are procured from the western part of Europe. The main countries that supply the raw fiber are Belgium and . The flax fibre comes in two forms:  Fibre  Hackled Sliver The fibre packages are of two types:  Round – 100 kg  Square – 200 kg Hackled sliver also comes in two types of packages:  Round: 150 kg  Square: 600 kg Sample packages are of 30 kg. The varieties of the flax procured generally are:     

Suzanne Maryline Malina Alizee Lorea

Figure 2.1 Fibre packages stored in godown

The fibre packages are stored in two godowns (fig2.1). Their mixing and conditioning is done separately. Bale Opening In this process, the bale is opened and is converted to sheet form (fig2.2). Conditioning The conditioning of the flax fibres is done Figure 2.2 Bale opening by spraying water on the opened bales. This process is conditioned to improve the strength of the fibres. This process is done manually like the bale opening. Page | 20

The workers in the godown divide the round fibre packages into 5-6 parts of 20 kg each. The square package is also divided into two parts weighing 100 kg each. Fibre weighing 100 kg for both type of packages is delivered to sorting table, while sliver goes to the drawing section.

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Sorting MANUAL SEGREGATION Manual segregation is the process of separating the raw fibres that have been imported, into different bundles according to quality or fineness. As the name suggests, manual segregation is done manually by workers. Feed: Raw fibres Delivery: Manually segregated raw fibre materials (100 +_ 10 grams each bunch) Machine used: Perforated table with a suction mechanism under the table (fig2.3) Significance of manual segregation:  To segregate or separate raw fibre materials according to their fineness or according to their quality  To clean the raw fibre materials of all the visible dirt particles like twigs, leaves, etc. manually.

Figure 2.3 Manual Segregation

Perforated table:  The perforated table is made up of metal.  It has a perforated section in the middle.  It also has a suction mechanism located under the table just under the perforated portion of the table.  The workers segregate the fibres over the perforated portion of the table and the lint and fuzz are sucked down.

Characteristics of the fibres  The fibres are initially cleaned of the visible dirt particles.  The fibres are also cleaned of most of the lint and fuzz that are present.  There are no changes in any other characteristics of the fibres.

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Hackling Hackling is the process of straightening of the raw fibre materials. This process also helps in cleaning the raw fibre materials and separates the good quality fibre from the low quality (fig2.3) (fig2.4). Feed: Manually segregated fibre materials Delivery: Hackled slivers (30 – 40 gm/m) – Long line flax fibre: 60% Waste: Tow (25% - 30%) Significance of hackling:  Hackling helps the fibres to straighten and set in a parallel way.  It also helps in increasing the lustre of the fibre.  It is also a way to remove the impurities from the raw fibre materials. 28% - 32% of the total weight of fibre is generated as waste.

Figure 2.3 Hackling Machine

Figure 2.4 Hackling Machine

SOP of Hackling Machine Machine name: JAMES MACKIE & SONS LTD BELFAST NO-3473 Make: FLCB, Jamie Mackie Year of manufacture: 1950, 1965 Total no of machines: 3 Machine parameters:  Hackling height hackling sheet- 760mm  Frequency of opening and closing of hackling sheet- 8-8.5 times/min  Row no of hackling tool on hackling sheet- 24 Page | 23

      

Length of hackling tool- 12inches (305mm) Speed of hackling sheet-18-28m/min Can diameter and height of spreader- 450X1000mm Delivery roller diameter-101.6mm Front roller diameter-114.3mm Overall size of the whole machine- 11700 X 4800 X 3000 Processing capacity: 400 kgs/ shift (4320 bunches)

1. Hackling machine has a feed section, where the manually segregated fibres are fed into the machine manually. 2. One holder of the hackling machine is fed with two bunches of flax fibres and combed. 3. It has a conveyor belt system which carries the fibres to the other parts of the machine. 4. It has three sections containing three types of pins- the first portion has thick pins that are placed far apart, the second portion has less thicker pins that are placed much closely placed and the third portion has thinner pins that are placed very closely together. 5. Each of these sections of pins provides a combing operation on the fibres such that the fibres are straightened and become parallel. 6. The combing process leaves behind a waste material, tow, at the bottom of the pinned section of the machine. 7. The hackling machine has a cyclic process and the already combed fibres to the next pinned sections of the machine that consists of the same arrangement of pins for the same purpose. 8. The machine has a delivery section that delivers the hackled slivers automatically to drums that are placed at the delivery portion of the machine.

Characteristics of the fibres  The fibres are straightened and they are mostly paralleled.  The fibres have increased lustre.  The volume of the fibre is decreased.

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Gill Box The objective of gill box (fig2.5) is re-combing of the flax fibres to get finer and finer output. In the final step, a slight crimp is given by differential speed of rollers, so that the fibres can stretch during drawing and do not break. Machine used: Hand Gill Box (NSC) No. of machines available: 4 Gill box 1: Input-10 ends, Output-1 end Gill box 2: (Bi-coiler) Input-8x2 ends, Output-1 end (fig2.6) Gill box 3: Input- 4 ends, Output- 1 end Gill box 4 (finisher): Input- 5 ends, Output-1 end (providing crimps) Draft of gill box is calculated by= Input/output Speed= 1440 nips/min

Figure 2.5 Gill Box

Figure 2.6 Bi-Coiler

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Processing of Tow Carding: Carding may be defined as the process of reduction of an entangled mass of fibres to a filmy web by working between closely spaced, relatively moving surfaces clothed with sharp wire points. Feed: Drawn slivers of tow Delivery: Carded slivers of tow Machine used: Flax t Carding Machine (FX151E) Significance of carding  The fibre to fibre separation.  To affect a thorough mixing of fibres.  Removal of dirt particles in the lap or opened flax in the blow room process.  Conversion of lap or opened flax in the blow room process into sliver form suitable for further processing.

Figure 2.7 Opening of flax

Carding region The carding region (fig2.7) consists of worker‟s cylinder, stepper‟s cylinder and flats. The purpose of cylinder and flats are:  To open the flax completely, even to the separation of one fibre from all others.  To collect short fibres and dirt and separate them from the longer fibres. The different cylinders keep giving and taking up tow fibres as until it is fully opened. After seven such complete cycles, the fibres are aligned. They are then compressed and 4 outputs are given which are combined into one final output. Page | 26

Flow Chart for Tow Processing Carding

Gill Box 1 (input 8 end/output 1 end)

Bi Coiler (produces two slivers, both stored in the same drum)

Combing (input 24 ends/output 1 end) (12 drums)

Gill Box (bi coiler)

Re Combing (To align and straighten the fiber)

1st Gilling (input 10 ends/output 1 end)

2nd Gilling (input 8 ends/output 1 end)

3rd Gilling (input 4 ends/output 1 end)

Finisher (input 3 ends/output 1 end)

Roving

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Draft Count on the Basis of Flow Chart Formula: Draft = Input (g/m) (g/m)

/ Output

1. Carding output: 28 g/ m 2. Gill box 1 input: ( 28 X8 )g/m ( 8 ends become one) Required output: 25g/m Thus the required draft in gill box 1 = (28X8)/25= 8.96

3. Bi- coiler = 5 ends produce two ends but in the same drum. Total input= (5X 25) g/m Desired output= 18.33g/m Thus the required draft = (5X25)/18.33= 6.81 4. Combing Feeding = 24 ends (2 from one drum from bi- coiler, i.e. 12 drums) Total input= (18.33 X 24) g/m = 440 g/m Combing production(Speed X feed length X feed load X 1440)/10^6 (160 X 6.7 X 440 X 1440)/10^6 679.2g/m 5. Re-combing in similar fashion 6. 1st Gilling- output- 24g/m 7. 2nd Gilling- output- 22g/m 8. 3rd Gilling- output- 12g/m 9. Finishing- 4.5 g/m 10. Roving- 9 g/m

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Drawing Drawing is the process of ing the hackled slivers through a certain number of rollers that give these slivers a greater shine, finer texture and devoid of most of the thick and thin places. Feed: Hackled slivers Delivery: Drawn slivers or cans (100s, 80s)

SOP of Drawing Machine Machine names: FX280, FX281, FX282, FX283, FX284 Number of machine available: 12 Make: James Mackie, Italian, Domestic Year of manufacture: 1949, 1993, 1983 Machine Name

FX280

FX281

FX282

FX283

FX284

No. of Head

2,3,4

2,3,4

3,4,5

4,5,6

5,6,7

Distance Between Carriage Plate

1180

1104

1003

953

928

No. of Faller/Head

97

88

96

87

84

Diameter of Front Roller

76

63

45

45

45

Diameter of Back Roller

77

51

45

45

45

Significance of drawing  Drawing of the hackled fibre ensures that slivers of the desired count are obtained.  It removes the thick and thin places that are present in the hackled slivers.  It delivers a more lustrous sliver than the hackled slivers.  The slivers that are delivered are lesser in volume than the hackled fibres.  In this process, the remaining of the dirt particles is removed.  This process helps in blending the fibres.

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Process  There are six rows of draw frames, each row containing six draw frames.  One drum of hackled sliver is ed through each of the draw frames and one continuous sliver of hackled fibres is drawn.  The drawing process is accomplished by ing the hackled slivers through a system of rollers such that the fibres are stretched to be straightened and be cleared of the remaining dirt particles.  A continuous sliver of hackled fibres is ed through each of the six draw frames progressively.  The hackled slivers are firstly ed through the rollers of the first draw frame.  That sliver is ed through the second draw frame, then the third, the fourth, the fifth and lastly the sixth draw frame.  The sliver that is treated by the sixth and the last draw frame is delivered as the drawn slivers.  Each row of the draw frames have colour coded drum where the individual drawn slivers are delivered.  The colour codes are used to distinguish the count of the individual slivers from the individual draw frames. The colours are red, orange, green, deep blue, light blue and yellow.  In drawing, doubling and drafting are also done.  Doubling is done to make the slivers even. In one unit, 6 slivers are combined into one to form cans.

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Roving Roving is the process of giving the drawn slivers a false (protective) twist to provide strength before the bleaching or boiling process is being undertaken. Roving provides the drawn slivers with a suitable package. Feed: Drawn slivers Delivery: Roved slivers

SOP of Roving Machine  Machine name: FX-402  Number of machines: 4

Figure 4.2 Roving Frame

No. of Heads

15

No. of Spindles

120

Diameter of Front Roller

38.1

Diameter of Back Roller

38

Roving machine  Roving machines have a feed section through which the drawn slivers are fed and the slivers are given a false and loose twist.  At the delivery section, there are cylindrical empty packages for the roved slivers to be wound around.  The drawn slivers are fed through the feeding zone and the false twists are given in the twisting section.  The delivery section has the empty cylinder so that the roved slivers are wound around.  In roving, one doubled sliver is ed through one spindle. There are a total of 120 spindles.  There are no combinations of the hackled fibres.

Page | 31

Boiling Boiling is the process of treating the roved slivers such as to remove all the remaining grease and the dust materials. Feed: Roved slivers Delivery: Boiled roved slivers SOP of Boling Machine Machine used: Loris Belline Capacity: 8 carriers (1150 bobbins) Consumption of water: 10,000 litres x 5 times Significance of boiling  Boiling makes the roved slivers softer.  It also gets rid of all the remaining grease and dirt particles. Characteristics of the roved slivers after boiling  The slivers are softer and they are mostly free from the grease materials and dirt particles.

Figure 5.1 Boiling Machine

Figure 5.2 Boiled Rove

There is one PR (preparation) tank where the solution is prepared, and a main tank where bleaching is done.

Page | 32

Process Flow Chart for Boiling Wetting with soap at Room Temp. for 10 minutes

Boiling with Caustic Soda at 95°C for 90 minutes

First hot wash with soft water at 80°C for 15 minutes

Second hot wash with soft water at 80°C for 15 minutes

Washing with CH3COOH at Room Temp. for 15 minutes

Cold Wash with soft water at Room Temp. for 10 minutes

Soft Water Wash for finishing at 40°C for 15 minutes

Page | 33

Bleaching Bleaching is the process of removal of all the natural coloring matters from the raw fibre materials. Feed: Roved slivers Delivery: Bleached roved slivers Chemicals used for bleaching: 1. Hydrogen peroxide 35% 2. Sodium hypochlorite 3. Sodium chlorite 40% 4. Peracetic acid 15% 5. Sodium nitrate 6. Sodium hydroxide 7. Pretepon G 8. Solopol BLS concentrated 9. Sultafon UNS 10. Magnesium sulphate

Significance of bleaching  Bleaching makes the roved slivers white in colour.  It helps in getting rid of all the natural colours to make it suitable for the fibres to absorb the dyes and get the desired colour.

Characteristics of bleached roved slivers  The roved slivers are white in colour.  They are ready to absorb dyes that are used to treat the roved slivers with.

Page | 34

Process Flow Chart for Bleaching Pretreatment with HCL at 52°C for 15 minutes

Cold Wash with soft water at Room Temp. for 10 minutes

First Bleaching with H2O2 at 85°C for 35 minutes

Cold Wash with soft water at Room Temp. for 10 minutes

Sampling

Second Bleaching with H2O2 at 95°C for 45 minutes

First hot wash with chemical at 80°C 10 minutes

Sampling

Washing with CH3COOH at Room Temp. for 15 minutes

Soft Water Wash for finishing at 40°C for 15 minutes

Page | 35

Wet Spinning Wet spinning is the process of spinning of fibres into yarns in a wet environment. Feed: Bleached or boiled roved slivers Delivery: Spun yarns SOP of Wet Spinning Machine Machine name: Spinning ring frame (PM-88 L5) Number of machines: 26 Number of people working: 40 No. of spindles: 56 Yarn linear density: 20-60 tex (Nm) Twist/meter: 300-800Tm Twist direction: Right Z Yarn ring diameter: 55mm Wind height: 210mm Spindle speed rpm: 3700-3800 Drafting system: Single zone, single apron drafting system with two pressure rollers

Figure 6.1 Ring Frame

Color coding is done for different rings for spinning yarns of different counts (lea). Mechanism The mechanism of the machine is that the roves are fed through the feeding section.  The feed roller rotates at a lesser speed than the delivery roller causing the slivers to thin in the process.  The ring frame machine uses warm water to proceed with the spinning action of linen.. Page | 36

Significance of wet spinning:  Wet spinning helps in converting the roved slivers into yarns of a definite count.  It makes the slivers to be suitable for weaving process

TWISTING: Two or more single yarns are twisted to form a single yarn. SOP of Twisting Machine      

Number of machines = 13 Name : Two for one twister Make : Prerna Model number : prn 160/W Number of spindles : 144 Traverse length : 5.5” Figure 6.2 Twisting Machine

Page | 37

RF Drying RF Drying helps in the drying of the wet yarns that are being spun in the wet spinning process. RF dryer is the machine used to carryout the process. Feed: Wet spun yarn Delivery: Dried spun yarns Machine Used: Monga Strayfield RF Drier No of Machines: 2 Consists of the following components: i. ii. iii. iv.

Conveyor belt Control Back side conveyor belt There are total 30 chambers and at a time 19440 spindles can be dried.

The remaining water in the wet spindles is removed by ing it through the chamber of RF Drier. The wet spindles are kept on a moving belt in the chamber. The time is adjusted by increasing/decreasing the speed of the moving belt in the chamber A wet product submitted to a Radio Frequency (RF) field absorbs the electromagnetic energy so that its internal temperature increases. If a sufficient amount of energy is supplied, the water is converted into steam, which leaves the product, that is to say the wet product gets dried.

Figure 7.1 RF Dryer

Page | 38

Winding Winding is the process of salable package formation of yarns, i.e, big yarn packages are formed such that they can be sold. Moreover, Winding also helps in manageable package formation of yarns such that they can be further processed. Feed: Dried spun yarns Delivery: Packages of spun yarns (Weight: 1-1.5 kg) SOP of Winding Machine Machine used: SCHLAFHORST AUTO CONER No. of machines: 3 Speed: 500m/min Production: 3 tonnes/day Parts of the Machine INDICATORS:  RED- when the machine stops due to entanglement of threads  GREEN- when the machine is running  YELLOW- when the package is complete

Figure 8.1 Winding Machine

GRIPPER ARM:  The upper arm gripping is also clearly more efficient.  The piecing cycle of the upper yarn gripping is Figure 8.2 Winding Machine optimized.  The suction arm moves gradually closer to the package surface with each searching movement.

Page | 39

 As a result, the yarn is gripped faster and the number of unproductive repeat piecing cycles due to none gripping of the upper yarn is clearly reduced. SPLICER: Utilizing compressed air the splice whirls the yarn ends together forming knotless yarn ts. The tensile strength of the splice is nearly identical to the yarn strength, thus representing the ideal, yarn like t of two yarn ends. The splicer is fastened on the winding unit housing. It is driven from the cam shaft of the winding unit housing. It is driven from the cam shaft of the winding unit via plug coupling. Shaft carries the cams for splicing. Splice testing takes place automatically at the winding unit start up, as the splice es through the clearer‟s measuring slot. WINDING UNIT:  It consists of three major assemblies:  Winding unit housing: With package cradle, individually driven yarn guide drum, traverse displacement, control circuitry and control elements with signal lamps.  Central housing: With suction arm, waxing device, electronic clearer, yarn tension sensor, splicer head, yarn tension device and suction pipe.  Creel housing: With circular magazine (RM), bobbin chute and creeling mechanism TENSIONING DEVICE: The tension device applies uniform tension to the yarn, in order to obtain the desired degree of hardness of the delivery package. The yarn runs between the rotating tension discs driven against the direction of the running yarn by tension motor. The desired yarn tension is generated through friction of the yarn against the two tension disc. PACKAGE DOFFER: The package doffer patrols on the tracks located above the winding units. Upon request from a winding unit the doffer winds a nose tail on the completed package, and doffs the package. The doffer also places a new cone from the magazine into the package cradle and winds and transfer tail. CONDITIONING ROOM: In this stage the bigger package wound in the Auto coner machine are stored in a conditioning room and from there they are sent for packaging.. Page | 40

Packaging Yarn packaging is the section where yarns are being conditioned, checked, packed and weighed. In this section the yarns come for packaging on peg trolleys where they are divided according to their count. Then these yarn are put on a conveyor belt where the total work for packaging is done. STEP 1. Firstly, these yarns are conditioned. This is done by spraying the cones with RO water one by one. The amount of water that can be sprayed depends on the type of cone, for example- it‟s 20% for shafted cone. STEP 2. Secondly, checking is done. In this section the cones are checked for any broken thread or anything unwanted and then it goes to the packaging part. STEP 3.Thirdly, comes packaging. Here the cones are put into plastic packets to retain the moisture and then it is packed in cartons and sealed. 24 cones are packed in 1 carton. STEP 4.Fourth and the final step is weighing. Here the cartons are weighed and the weight is written on each carton. Packing is as done as follows:  In 1 carton – 28/30/32 cones  1 kg = 32 cones  1.5 kg = 18 cones

Page | 41

Weaving Weaving is the process of making fabrics by interlacing the threads lengthwise and width wise commonly known as warp and weft in a regular order. The operation is performed in a machine called a loom. Two sets of yarns are interlaced, almost always at right angles to each other. One, called the warp, runs lengthwise in the loom; the other, called the filling, weft or woof, runs crosswise. The raising and lowering sequence of warp threads in various sequences gives many possible weave structures.

Flow Chart of Weaving Process Segregated yarns

weavers beam

Yarn segregation

Warping

drawn beam

warpsheet ready for weaving

Outputs Y‟s

Inputs

grey and dyed yarn

segregated yarn

Drawing

weavers beam

Gaiting

drawn beam

X‟s Woven fabric

Weaving

graded fabric

Grey checking

Page | 42

Creeling Creeling is the process used to creel the packages.  Draw the threads into the appropriate tensioners.  Insert the threads of each horizontal row into the guides and the appropriate stop motion element. Parallel cone creel (magazine creel)  Capacity: 480 (480 reserved)  Features: warp stop motion, when yarn is break. Here photo electric sensors are used.  Creeling time: 25-30 min.  Type of tensioner: Mechanical type (spring plate).  Adjustment of the tensioner: By manually.  Beam dimension: For Rapier, Dia. Of beam- 8.2” Length of the beam- 92” Weight of the beam- 128kg For Projectile, Dia. Of beam- 7” Length of beam- 92”  Shift wise productive: 2 beam per shift (avg.)  Requirement of worker: 2  Transportation of beams: by using Creels trolleys.  Fault: Missing end, lost end, Double end, losing end, Selvedge loose, Cut end, Lease problems.  Warping Program: -Yarn count 40 Lea -Total end =2013 -Beam flange to flange distance in mm =915 mm -Creel capacity= 480 -Total length in meter=1200 m -Partial length in meter=150 m -End/mm=2.2 mm -No. of section=4 of 480 ends& 1 of 93 ends,-Section width=218.8 mm

Page | 43

Warping Warping is the process of arranging a set of yarns (warps) in a stretched position, the yarns parallel to each other under high tension. Feed: Dyed or undyed yarns Delivery: Stretched, parallel dyed or undyed yarns on warp beams.

Significance of warping  This is suitable for making checked, stripped or other fancy fabric. 

We directly obtain weaver‟s beam from this process.



As sizing is not done, so multi-ply yarns or yarns which do not require sizing are used.



Small amount of yarn is required to produce the weaver‟s beam.



Sectional warping is used to produce a warp beam with a greater member if ends.

  

The production is less in sectional warping. The yarn tension is less uniform. It is less efficient than high speed warping.

Sectional warping It is a process in which equal length of yarn is first wound in small sections or sheets on a drum. Then from the drum it is transferred to the beam in the form of a sheet. It is a two stage process and is used to produce fancy fabrics by color and weave effect.

Page | 44

SOP of Sectional Warping Machine NAME: PrashantGamatex. (Sectional warping m/c) Model: E.P 1100 Size: 2200 mm Total No. of m/c: 13 No. of m/c in section I: 03 No. of m/c in section II: 04 Beam or drum diameter: 3 meter Warping speed: 150 m/min Sectional Warping Machine

Travers speed: 232.4 mm Reed space: 78 inch max (64 inch avg. used)  It is a two stage process, called the warping and beaming  Warping is done from creel to drum. Creel capacity is small as compared to direct warping.  The drum/swift is tapered at a slight angle to provide to the yarn and it also prevents the slippage of yarn. Higher the taper angle less will be the package stability.  The yarns are laid section-wise, starting from the conical base side.  The first section is ed by the taper of the base and the subsequent sections ed by the taper formed by the preceding section.  Each section has multiple ends per sequence required, while section length is the same.  The number of ends is same in each section, except the last section also known as the cut-able section.  The sections are traversed on the drum during warping along the width of section to form an angle.  Length of the yarn is measured by the measuring roller.

Page | 45

Beaming 1) After completion of warping, press centering push button to take the m/c almost in line with beam. 2) Take an empty beam in front of beaming headstock. 3) Take all the yarns on beam from the top of fluted roller, waxing roller & guide roller. Tie all yarns on the beam keeping equal space between the entire sections knot. 4) Start beaming by pressing the green push button & gradually increase speed. 5) Stop the m/c to take out the lease safety.

Beaming

Page | 46

Technical Specification Sheet

Page | 47

Drawing Yarn drawing is the process of ing the warped yarns through the appropriate eye of the heddles of a harness. A harness is a rectangular frame which performs the shedding operations. Attached to these frames are a series of wires that are called heddles. The heddles have openings that can be compared to the eyes of needles. Feed: Warped yarns Delivery: Drawn yarns Yarn drawing is done manually with the help of a hook that helps in pulling the yarns through the eyes of the heddles. There are total 26 in m/c for drawing. Two workers are required in Beam: 1) Drawer 2) Reacher For 6 heald shaft, 4 for body & 2 for selvedge are used.  Drawing- in m/c parts: type of design.  Average no. of ends drawn/shift/operative for plain sorts- 6000-6500 ends.  Specifications of heald wire ,drop pines, heald wire  For projectile for-length 13‟‟  For rapier 200 –length 15‟‟  Drop pins-different weighted drop pins are used for different count Finer count above 80 –low weight Fault during drawing in, denting and their corrections: Fault 1.Crossing in warping, it is corrected by operative Fault 2.Pattern change. (Discussed with design department, they solve it)

Page | 48

Gaiting and Knotting Gaiting Gating is the manual process of ing the induvidual ends through the machine parts where the process takes around 3-4 hours of time.

Knotting Machine

Knotting Knotting machine: Staubli Tophomatic The machine is used to Knot two warp sheets together where it is capable of making 320 knots per minute. The various steps involved in Knotting are as follows:     

Dressing Lease up and down Pull thread Cutter, knotter Waste extractor

Page | 49

Weaving Weaving is the process interlacement of two sets of yarns, the warp and the weft. The weaving department is divided into 2 sheds. Shed 1: 50 looms I. 30 rapier looms II. 20 projectile looms Shed 2: 48 (all Rapier looms) Almost 14,000 meters of fabric is made in 1 day. The maximum width of the fabric is 153 inches i.e. 390 cm. Other widths of fabric include 200, 220 and 190. An efficiency of 65% is achieved. A variety of weaves are used such as plain, twill, satin and fancy weave. They also have attachments for dobby. Plain weave is the most commonly used weave. The department works in all the three shifts. All the looms are Sulzer Ruti Looms. RAPIER MACHINES

Make: SULZER RUTI No. of Machines: 78 Width: 200cm 190 cm Max. No. of Heald Shafts Possible: 20

PROJECTILE MACHINES

Name: SULZER RUTI Model: Projectile-Webmachine 9751997 No. of Machines: 20 Width: 390 cm Max. No. of Heald Shafts Possible: 18

The primary motions are: Hedding: Raising specific warp yarns by means of the harness or heddle frame Picking: Inserting filling yarns through the shed Beating-up: Or battening is pushing filling yarns firmly in place by means of the reed. The secondary motions are: Taking-up and letting-off: Winding the finished fabric on the cloth beam and releasing more of the warp from the warp beam.

Page | 50

Working Process for Weaving  Take charge handover from previous shift operators and check the cleaning of the machine. 

Indicator lights:



Warp breakage: Blue



Weft breakage: Yellow



Weft package: Yellow + White



Doff length: Yellow + White (continuous blinking)



Mechanical or electrical: Red



Always mend warp ends with same

Weaving Process

warp yarn shade and use weaver knot. 

Reset meter after reach length of fabric and inform to roll doffer to cut fabric roll.

 Always use plastic wire for inserting the weft yarn in an accumulator. 

Always use red hook for drawing the warp yarn in heald and reed.

Page | 51

Weaving section machine details 78 loom Repier

4 loom Repier pikanol 20 loom projectile

Name of loom-solqG6200 Sectional warping machine

-----------prashant gamatax

size of warping machine ---------------2200mm Warp drum 300m/min

diameter--------3m/ warping speed----------100-

Reed space------60 to 80 inch Single end warping m/c--------suzuki Size of machine -----------2200mm/warp drum diameter---------7m Warping speed------100-200m/mint Type of creel------parallel/ creel capacity--------480max/ creeling time-----30min Type of tensioner---------air pressure and mechanical warp beam dimension( rapier)----------dia of beam8.2” length

Page | 52

Weaving Faults:                       

Design Cut Wrong Drawing Wrong Denting Wrong Warp Pattern Wrong Weft Pattern Missing End Double End Cheera, Chappa, Stitches, Float Lashing Pick Tall Ends Bad Selvedge Wrong Monogram Wrong Design Wrong Lifting Reed Mark Temple Mark Oil Stain Jhiri, Patti Let-off-mark Starting Mark Small Weft cut, Long Weft Cut Double Pick Hole

Page | 53

A Survey on the Weaving Department Waste % 4.45

4.45

4.5

4.45 4.35

4.26

4 3.44 3.5 3 2.5

Waste target

2

Waste Actual

1.5 1 0.5 0 Jan-16

Feb-16

Mar-16

Running Efficiency 70

70

70

70 69 68

67.4

67.2 Running Efficiency Target

67 66.3

Running Efficiency Actual

66 65 64 Jan-16

Feb-16

Mar-16

Page | 54

Loom Production Metres/Day 24800 25000

22779

24800 23619

24800 22604

20000

15000

Loom Production im Mtrs Target Loom Production in Mtrs Actual

10000

5000 4.5 0 Jan-16

Feb-16

Mar-16

Warping Production Meters/Day 30000

29325

29325

29325

29000 28000

27447 26575

27000 26000

25529

Warping Production Target Warping Production Actual

25000 24000 23000

Page | 55

Power/100 Meter 160

144

144

144

140 111

120 95

100 77

Target

80

Actual

60 40 20 0 Jan-16

Feb-16

Mar-16

Weaving Damage% 2.5 2.13 1.84

2 1.68 1.5

1.25

1.25

1.25

Weaving Damage Target Weaving Damage Actual

1

0.5

0 Jan-16

Feb-16

Mar-16

Page | 56

Pre-Treatment Process Jaya Shree Textiles contribute to three basic Pre-Treatment processes for Piece Dyed Fabrics:  Singeing  Desizing  Continuous Bleaching Range Flow chart for Pre-Treatment Processes: 1

Piece Dyed Fabrics

Yarn Dyed Fabric 2

Singeing+Desizing

Singeing 3

Continuous Bleaching Range (CBR)

Finishing Process 4

Finishing Process

Page | 57

Singeing Singeing refers to the burning-off of surface fiber. Loose fibres not firmly bound into the yarn and/or fabric structure. Singeing is an important part of pretreatment. This is the burning off of protruding fiber ends from the surface of the fabric. If not done properly, unclear print patterns, mottled fabric surfaces, and pilling results. Singeing is carried out due to the following reasons: 

Loose yarns are not firmly bound into the fabric structure.



Protruding fibre ends are sticking out of the textile yarns and/or fabrics.

SOP of Seinging cum Desizing Machine Name: OSHTOFF singeing machine Made In: Source of flame: L.P.G. Pressure of LPG: 1.5 bar Flame Height: 6” approx Temperature of flame: 1100 C

Singeing through Singeing

Speed: 100 m/min Colour of flame: Blue Flame Intensity: Depends upon the G.L.M. of fabrics The flame attacks the fabric in three ways: 1. Direct: The flame is perpendicular on the fabric surface. This is the process that is being used. 2. Angular: The flame and the fabric surface creates an angle between them. 3. From below: The flame is provide from below on the fabric.

Page | 58

Operating Process 1. Emergency stops are checked. 2. Air pressure is checked. 3. Front roll setting and automatic press lifting point on 1 position 4. Before ignition, check that fabric is wound tightly around the singeing rollers to prevent burning. 5. Initial burner pressure is kept very low. 6. Before shutting down, the machine is cleaned for atleast 12 min keeping key at 1 position

Singeing cum Desizing Machine

7. Duct 3 is cleaned using water spray. 8. Rollers and chemical tanks are cleaned after padding.

Page | 59

Desizing Process Flow Chart Pre brushing unit

Singeing

Keep the batch in rotation for 8-10 hours

Dancer roller

Batch formation

Post brushing

Padding with desize(85° C)

Desizing is the process of removing the size material from the warp yarns in woven fabrics. Sizing agents are selected on the basis of type of fabric, environmental friendliness, ease of removal, cost considerations, effluent treatment, etc. Desizing, irrespective of what the desizing agent is, involves impregnation of the fabric with the desizing agent, allowing the desizing agent to degrade or solubilize the size material, and finally to wash out the degradation products. Machinery Parameters NIP Pressure: 0.8 BAR Trough Capacity: 750 lit Chemical Recipe 

Enzyme: 5 g/l



Wetting agent: 4 g/l



Complexer : 1 to 1.5 g/l



Temperature: 85 C



pH : 6 to 9.5



Speed: 80 to 100 m/min



Enzyme used: Palkozyme Plus.

Page | 60

Continuous Bleaching Range (CBR) Bleaching in our open-width ranges is executed with a pad-steam bleaching process. It combines a two step chemical processes:  Demineralising the fabric and  Bleaching the fabric using Peroxide/Alkali liquor in combination with a steam atmosphere. Bleaching ranges vary in size and are available from 300 to 1200 kg/h. The process is highly economical in water/steam/chemical consumption as compared with discontinuous machines.

SOP of Bleaching Machine Name: Mezzera HTP UNITEX Made in: Italy Year of Manufacturing: 2006 Number of Chambers with details: CBR Machine  CHAMBER 1 &2 : HOT WATER(90°C) WASH (CAPACITY : 1200L EACH)  CHAMBER 3 : PEROXIDE, CAUSTIC SODA, STABILIZER AND WETTING AGENT WASH (CAPACITY : 200L)  CHAMBER 4 (STEAMER) : STEAMED AT 99°C ( time in steamer 2-2.5 min for 90m)  CHAMBER 5 : HOT WATER(100°C) WASH + STEAM SPRAY (CAPACITY : 1800L)  CHAMBER 6 & 7 : : HOT WATER(90°C) WASH (CAPACITY : 1800L & 1200L respectively)  CHAMBER 8 (a&b) : COLD WASH - NEUTRALISATION WITH ACETIC ACID (CAPACITY : 600L EACH)

Page | 61

Ratio of Water and Material: 6 lit/kg Threading Length: 40 m Time in Steamer: 3 min Pressure Required:  Steam pressure: 5-6 bar  Water pressure: 2-4 bar  Air pressure: 5-6 bar Working Width: 2000m Max Speed: 50mtr/min

Operating Process 1. Dosing of chemical with sequesting agent to prevent holes in fabric. (Iron contamination by weaving or chikates iron particle deposition may create hole in fabric) 2. 3 prewashes at 90° C to prevent overdosing of chemical. Checkpoints: (exact recipe of liquor is to be used after tartaration from QA lab) (Speed Control) 3. Steaming zone for 130mtr fabric at a time at 90-95° C maintain ph by caustic soda 4. Post washes using double threading of fabric tp increase efficiency of washing. 5. VDR to dry the fabric. 100 kg of steam (120-130° C) required for single roller. Steam pressure maintained at 4 kg/cm sq. 6. Sample for whiteness in sent to QA lab. If the whiteness is less than 70-80 then fabric is bleached on jigger.

Page | 62

Continuous Bleaching Range (CBR) Diagram

Page | 63

Dyeing The process of applying desired colour/shade to the yarn/piece is termed as Dyeing. The two basic constituents of dyeing are:  Alkali  Colour

Alkali Alkali is used in dyeing to maintain pH. Best dyeing rate is achieved at pH of11-12. Further increase in pH will reduce the reaction rate as well as the efficiency in fixation. The most common alkali that we use in dyeing is Caustic Soda or Silicate Preparation of Alkali The raw Alkali is concentrated at 130° but we need to have 34° concentration to achieve best dyeing. To achieve this degree of concentration we need to add 5 GPL of Caustic to 32° concentrated Alkali.

Page | 64

Process The raw silicate of approx. 50 kg is added to 150kg of H2O(room temperature)

If the concentration of Alkali is more than 32° concentration, Add extra water

If the concentration of Alkali is less the 32° concentration, Add Silicate

Now check the total Concentration

When 32° concentration of total weight of silicate is formed, Add 54 GPL Caustic

Now check the solution again

The final weight of concentration will be 34°

Page | 65

Colour Colours are used to give specific shade to the fabric. Primary Colours: The basic colours that can mingle with each other to form vast number of colours There are three primary colours: Red, Yellow and Blue Pre-Preparatory Process Tear the weighing Container

Check all the available colours

Weigh the colour that has least quantity first proceeded by the colour with maximum quantity Sample Paste Preparation Colour paste is formed by mixing colour and water in the ratio 1:10

Start Steering

Paste is formed Large Volume Preparation Take colour and water in the tank in the ratio 1:10 where the water is at normal room temperature

Add all the colours and chemicals such as wetting agent, dispersing agent etc.

Finally when the required amount of volume is obtained, Start Steering

Final Dye Solution is formed

Page | 66

Dyeing in Jaya Shree Textiles Dyeing of linen is done in the Jaya Shree Textiles in two forms:  Yarn Dyeing  Piece Dyeing

Yarn Dyeing The process of applying desired colour to the spun yarn is termed as yarn dyeing. Feed: Undyed yarn Delivery: Dyed Yarn Yarn Dyeing can be categorised into two forms  Package Dyeing  Hank Dyeing

Piece Dyeing The process of applying desired shade to the RFD (Ready For Dyeing) fabric is termed as piece dyeing. Feed: RFD (ready For Dyeing) Fabric Delivery: Dyed Fabric Piece dyeing can be categorised into three forms:  Pad-Batch Dyeing(Exhaust Dyeing)  Semi-Continuous Dyeing  Continuous Dyeing

Page | 67

Yarn Dyeing Significance of Yarn Dyeing    

To give specific colours to the yarns To create interesting checks, stripes and plaids To help dyestuff to penetrate to the fibers in the core of yarn Yarn dyed fabrics are usually deeper and richer in colour

Dyes used in the Industry  Reactive Dyes  Vat Dyes Lab Activity  Shade Development  In -Process shade matching  Quality Testing (fastness) There are two forms of yarn dyeing done in the industry  Package Dyeing  Hank Dyeing Yarn Dyeing Audit Report Date: 25/05/2016 Target HTHP Production-kg 6945

Daily

Updt

7337

8732

Hands/100kg

120

117

110

INT.Cust.Complain

0

0

0

(The whole system is computerised and complete database is maintained)

Page | 68

Package Dyeing What is HTHP Package Dyeing? Dyeing method with High temperature and High Pressure in the form of packages of any textile substrate in a pressure vessel is called as HTHP Package Dyeing. Packages comes in two kind, either cylindrical or conical. Process Flow Chart of Package Dyeing Process of Yarn Grey Receipt

Loading into Carriers

Dyeing of HTHP

Unloading from Carriers

Hydro Extraction

Radio Frequency Drying

Packaging of Dyed Yarns Page | 69

Machines employed for Package Dyeing     

Dalals Dyeing Machine Lorris Bellini Dyeing Machine Fong’s Dyeing Machine Hydro Extraction Machine Radio Frequency Drier

Lorris Bellini Dyeing Machine

Fong's Dyeing Machine

SOP of Dalals Dyeing Machine Total no of machines:6 (Wool Dyeing) Capacities:60kg/300kg Outside-In Flow Schematic Diagram

Page | 70

SOP of Lorris Bellini Dyeing Machine Total no of machines: 7 (Wool Dyeing) + 5 (Yarn Dyeing) = 12 Capacities: 160kg/280kg/360kg Lorris Bellini Dyeing Machine Diagram

Page | 71

SOP Fong’s Dyeing Machine Total no of machines: 7 (Yarn Dyeing) Capacities: 40kg/72kg/189kg Fong’s Dyeing Machine Diagram

Page | 72

SOP Hydro Extraction Machine Manufacturer: Centrifuge Berta RPM: 1470cycles Capacity: 160kg Power: 16kw Machine is used for removing excess water by centrifugal extraction. About 65% of water is removed by this process. The machine is like a round basket made of steel. There are many holes at the base of the machine. It is moveable that moves and the water is removed by centrifugal attraction. Extracted water is drained through the holes.

SOP of Radio Frequency Drier RF Drying helps in the drying of the wet yarns that are dyed . RF dryer is the machine used to carry out the process. Feed: Wet dyed yarn Delivery: Dried dyed yarns Machine Used: Monga Strayfield RF Drier No of Machines: 2 Consists of the following components: v. vi. vii. viii.

Radio Frequency Drier Conveyor belt Control Back side conveyor belt There are total 30 chambers and at a time 19440 spindles can be dried.

The remaining water in the cones is removed by ing it through the chamber of RF Drier. The cones are kept on a moving belt in the chamber. The time is adjusted by increasing/decreasing the speed of the moving belt in the chamber A wet product submitted to a Radio Frequency (RF) field absorbs the electromagnetic energy so that its internal temperature increases. If a sufficient amount of energy is supplied, the water is converted into steam, which leaves the product, that is to say the wet product gets dried. Page | 73

Advantages:       

Uniform drying at low temperature where only the humid parts are heated Energy Saving (1.2 kg water per kW/hr high frequency power) Improved fiber quality and fastness Residual humidity controlled within 1% Constant and repeatable drying level Space saving and time saving Instant controls and adjustments

Page | 74

Hank Dyeing It is also known as Skein Dyeing where the spun yarns are made into hanks or skein before dyeing.The hanks or skeins are loosely wounded packages of yarns. Due to this looseness, dye penetration in hank dyeing becomes excellent. The skeins are hung over a ring and immersed in a dyebath in a large container. After the compilation of the dyeing process, the yarns are re-wounded in spools. This is the most costly form of dyeing. The colour penetration is best and the yarns also retain a softer and loftier hand.

Machines employed for Hank Dyeing  Cone to Hank Reeling It is a machine that converts Cones that are large spools of yarns into loosely wounded hanks which are then send to dyeing machine.  Hank Dyeing Machine SOP of Hank Dyeing Machine Manufacturer: Flainox (Italy) Year: 2009 Capacity: 30kg Total No of Machines: 4 of 30kg/1 of 2kg/2 of 60kg and 1 of 300kg It is the machine that dyes the hanks of yarns.  Squeezer SOP of Squeezer Manufacturer: Minmetti (Italy) Year: 2007 Capacity: 1 stick/5 sec Total No. Of machines: 2 It is a machine that squeezes out the water from the hanks after it has been dyed.

Page | 75

 SOP of Radio Frequency Drier RF Drying helps in the drying of the wet yarns that are dyed. RF dryer is the machine used to carry out the process. Feed: Wet dyed yarn Delivery: Dried dyed yarns Machine Used: Monga Strayfield RF Drier No of Machines: 2 Consists of the following components: i. ii. iii. iv.

Conveyor belt Radio Frequency Drier Control Back side conveyor belt There are total 30 chambers and at a time 19440 spindles can be dried.

The remaining water in the cones is removed by ing it through the chamber of RF Drier. The cones are kept on a moving belt in the chamber. The time is adjusted by increasing/decreasing the speed of the moving belt in the chamber A wet product submitted to a Radio Frequency (RF) field absorbs the electromagnetic energy so that its internal temperature increases. If a sufficient amount of energy is supplied, the water is converted into steam, which leaves the product, that is to say the wet product gets dried. Advantages:       

Uniform drying at low temperature where only the humid parts are heated Energy Saving (1.2 kg water per kW/hr high frequency power) Improved fiber quality and fastness Residual humidity controlled within 1% Constant and repeatable drying level Space saving and time saving Instant controls and adjustments

 Hank to Cone Reeling It is the machine that converts the hanks back to the cones of yarns and then it is packed. Page | 76

Process Flow Chart of Hank Dyeing Process of Yarn Grey or bleached yarn into the form of cone

Creeling of cone into hank form

Loading of hank in the carrier

Dyeing in the dyeing machine

Squeezing in the squeezer machine

Drying in the drying machine

Conversion of hank into the cone

Packaging of Dyed Yarns

Page | 77

Piece Dyeing Significance of Piece Dyeing  To give specific shade to the fabric  To help dyestuff to form bond with the fibers of fabric  To provide lustre to the fabric Dyes used in the Industry  Reactive Dyes: in a reactive dye a chromophore contains a substituent that is activated and allowed to directly react to the surface of the substrate. Reactive dyes have good fastness properties owing to the bonding that occurs during dyeing. Reactive dyes are most commonly used in dyeing of cellulose like cotton or flax. Lab Activity  Shade Development  In -Process shade matching  Quality Testing (fastness) Machines at Lab for Dyeing Tests  Colour Checking Booth Instrument Name: Mathis Padder Speed: 2.5m/min Pressure: 5Bar Purpose: Sample padding Before dyeing of a batch, a sample is dyed for DLC (Di liquor confirmation so that the same shade comes when the batch is dyed.  Launderometer (for fastness testing due to washing)  Spectrometer (for fastness due to light) Forms of dyeing process done in the industry  Pad-Batch Dyeing (Exhaust Dyeing)  Semi-Continuous Dyeing  Continuous Dyeing (*not practised in the industry)

Page | 78

Piece Dyeing Audit Report Date: 28/05/2016 Budget

Today

Updt

Fabric Delivery (mtr)

756000

20671

453313

Manpower

237

211

239

0

0

INT.Cust.Complain 0

(*The whole system is computerised and complete database is maintained)

Page | 79

Pad-Batch Dyeing (Exhaust Dyeing) Batch dyeing is the most popular and common method used for dyeing of textile materials. It is often referred to as Exhaust Dyeing. Valuable factors in reactive Exhaust Dyeing with reactive dyes Temperature: A higher temperature in dyeing with reactive dyes results in higher rate of dyeing, Lower colour yield, Better dye penetration, Rapid diffusion, and lower sustianivity. pH: pH influences the primary site of reaction on the fabric, Best dyeing rate is achieved at pH of11-12. Further increase in pH will reduce the reaction rate as well as the efficiency in fixation. Electrolyte: Electrolyte increases the rate and extent of exhaustion, Electrolyte increases the dye aggregation. Electrolyte decreases the diffusion. Liquor to material ratio: Advantages of lower liquor ratio, higher colour strength and higher exhaustion.

Machines employed for Pad-Batch Dyeing  Jig Dyeing Machine  Jet Dyeing Machine

Jig Dyeing SOP of Jig Dyeing Machine Manufacturer: Pacific Harish Industries Water Capacity: 500kg Max. Temperature: 98°C  Jumbo Jigger It is the old form jigger machine also known as Open Jigger where the quantity of water/steam/ speed control is done manually by the operator. Total no. of machine: 2

Page | 80

There are two types of Jig Dyeing machines in the industry  Pacific Jigger It is the modern form of jigger also known as Close Jigger that has a touch pad from where the operator can take the prescribed quantity of water/steam/controlling of speed in one touch. Total no. of machine: 4 Pacific Jigger Dyeing Machine

Jigger Dyeing Machine Diagram

Page | 81

Process Flow Chart of Jig Dyeing Cleaning of Bath roll

Leading cloth is ed to the feeding roller

Warm Wash

Manually ed to the feeding roller

(2 rounds)

Colour Wash

Salt Wash

(2 rounds)

(2 rounds)

Solid Wash at 60®C (6 rounds)

Cold wash

Acid Wash at 60°C

Piece Cut

Soaping

Hot Wash

Cold Wash

(2rounds)

(2 rounds)

(2 rounds)

ash

(2 rounds)

(6 rounds)

Wrapped with plastic sheet (2 rounds) OOH)

(2 rounds)

aping

Fabric is unloaded to the Batch Roller Wash

Neutralization (by (2 rounds) CH3COOH)

(2 rounds)

(2 rounds)

Wash

Wash of Jig Dyeing over B Dyeing is that Steeping can be (The basic(Cold advantage done in fabric so that the flaws can be removed and it can be re-dyed) (2 rounds) 2 rounds)

Page | 82

SOP of Jet Dyeing Machine (*not in working state) Manufacturer: Swish fid Pvt.Ltd Year of Manufacturing: 1992 Loading Capacity: 150kg Liquor in Bath: 700ltr Max. Temperature: 140°C Max. Pressure: 5kh/cm² Diameter of Jet Nozzle: 2mm (Suiting) and 1.5mm (Shirting) Total No. of machines: 1

Page | 83

Semi-Continuous Dyeing (Exhaust Dyeing) Semi Continuous Dyeing is also known as pad batch dyeing. Such form of dyeing is able to dye fabric length of 1000-2000m at economic cost. In the process of semi-continuous dyeing that consists of pad-batch, pad roll where the fabric is first impregnated with the dye liquor in, which is called a padding chamber. In the pad-roll this treatment is done at low temperature by employing cooling chamber. This helps in fixation of dyes on the fibre. Machines employed for Semi-Continuous Dyeing: SOP of Kusters Cold Pad Batch Dyeing Machine (B)      

Manufacturer: Kusters Calico Machinery Ltd. Gujarat Year of Manufacturing: 2007 Threading Length: 10m Roller Width: 2000mm Working Width: 1800mm Squeeze Roll Hardness: 60° shor  Trough Capacity: 50ltr  Max. Air Pressure: 3.9bar  Max. Oil Pressure: 3.2bar Kusters Cold Pad Batch Dyeing Machine

There are two types of Kusters Cold Pad Batch Dyeing Machine in the industry:  Kusters Cold Pad Batch Dyeing Machine (Automatic) It is the modern form of B machine that has a touch pad from where the operator can take the prescribed quantity of water/dye + chemical ratio/controlling of speed in one touch. Total no. of machine: 1  Kusters Cold Pad Batch Dyeing Machine (Manually Operated) It is the old form B machine where the quantity of water/dye + chemical ratio/ speed control is done manually by the operator. Total no. of machine: 2

Page | 84

Process Flow Chart of Cold Pad Batch Dyeing: Cleaning of Trough

Stitching of leader Cloth to the RDF fabric

Dyeing Solution Preparation and test

Machine Starts

Leading cloth is rolled over feeding roller and the cloth is cut.

Now the feeding batch Roller is wrapped with plastic sheet

Now the Dyed Fabric has to be rolled over feeding batch roller

Rotational fixation process of 12 hrs.

The feeding batch is then wrapped with plastic sheet

Completion of Dyeing

Finishing

Setup Layout of Kusters Cold Pad Batch Machine

Page | 85

Finishing Manufacturing Linen Textiles in Jaya Shree Textiles, finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile.

Process Flow Chart of Finishing Input Dyed Fabric

Bleached Fabric

Finishing on Stenter Machine

Calendering

No Calendering

Sanforizing

Folding and Laboratory Testing

Page | 86

Stenter Machine It is a machine used to impart chemical finish to fabric. The purpose of the stenter machine is to bring the length and width to pre determined dimensions and also for heat setting and it is used for applying finishing chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted. Main objectives of stenter machine are: drying, finishing, heat setting and curing. There are 3 Harish Stenter Machines which have the same working.

SOP of Stenter Machine Name: Harish stenter 60 H,PIN Model: D1x1 Year of Manufacturing: 2005 No. of Heating Chambers: 6 No. of Radiators: 4 in each chambers Maximum Temperature: 180 °C Standard Temperature: 160 – 170 ° C Blower Fan Speed: 100 rpm Mangle: 2 DIP & 2 NIP Maximum NIP Pressure: 6 kg/cm2 Workable NIP Pressure: 4 kg/cm2 Workable Width: 180 cm Threading Length: 150 m Trough Capacity: 150 L Standard Overfeed: 4 % Components of Machine 1. Trough-chemical is loaded on the Trough. 2. Padding mangle-squeezes out extra amount of chemical,leaving only the required amount of chemical inside the fabric.No dwell time required.(std mangle pressure-2.5kg) 3. Bianco-for head setting i.e, keep the warps vertically straight in one direction. Page | 87

4. overfeed roll-shrinkage setting 5. Pinning table-To keep the width uniform. 6. Camera-moves left and right according to the image of selvedge on it. 7. Uncurler-removes the curling of selvedge of fabric 8. Heat chamber-to dry the fabric.There are 6 heat chambers each with the standard temperature of 150⁰ C. 9. Detector and alarm-To detect any abnormalities in tension,load or presence of dirt and ring alarm to inform the operator for immediate action. 10. Platter area-output zone 11. Air blower-for cleaning.

Working Process The fabric is collected from the batcher to the scray and then it is ed through the padders where the finishes are applied and some times shade variation is corrected.The fabric is entered into the mahlo (weft straigtner) the function of the mahlo is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric is griped by the clips and pins are also provided but the pins has a disadvantage that they pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretchning of the pins are greater than the clips.these clips and pins are ed to endless chain.there are 8 to 10 chambers provided on the machine each chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air.the circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers ar provided to stretch the warp yarn. After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch. The speed of the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each chamber.

Page | 88

Stenter Machine Diagram

Page | 89

Operating Process  Delivery of wet fabric rolls covered with plastic sheets and ticketed as „‟For Finish‟from bleaching and dyeing department.  Supervisor gives the chemical recipe according to the roll number in the programme book.  Buckets and chemical tanks are cleaned and then chemicals are prepared as per the given recipe.  Checkpoint- Weighing of chemicals checked by the supervisor randomly.  Operators re open the plastic sheets and input the rolls of fabric.  Chemical shifting from chemical tank to Truff.  Parameter setting( eg temperature, pressure, width etc ) by the operator.  Machine is run. Checkpoints: o automatic limit( left, right) according to the width of fabric. o Heat chamber net cleaned regularly for even heating/drying. o Brushes changed twice a day based on the deposition of yarn on them. o If fabric has loose threads on the surface,uncurler is switched on. o Machine stopped immediately on the ringing of alarm which may be due to roll change,filling of chemical in truff etc.  Platerman checks the fabric on output side. Checkpoints: o In case of any defect or non conformance to quality,it should be immediately informed to the supervisor.(not followed)  Output rolls are again covered with plastic sheets and ticketed as „for calender‟‟ or „for zero.”

Page | 90

Calendering It is the process used to impart chemical finish to fabric using frictional force between calendar rolls. There is one 3 bowl calendar machine. The main objectives of calendaring are:To upgrade the fabric hand and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric, improve the opacity of gthe fabric, compress the fabric and reduce its thickness, impart different degree of luster to the fabric, reduce yarn slippage. SOP of Calendering Machine Name: Ramisch Guarneri Year of Manufacturing: 2007 Working Width: 150m Threading Length:10m Standard Speed: 50mtr/min Standard Temperature100⁰C Maximum Pressure: 150⁰C Standard Pressure: 200N/m Maximum Pressure: 350N/m Components of Machine 1. Metal detector: Detects the presence of metal on the surface of fabric and rings alarm. 2. Seam detector: Detects presence of stitch in the fabric in same roll and rings alarm. Pressure then drops to 0 till the stitched part is rolled on the output roller and then resumes with 200 N. 3. Calender Rolls: -Bottom roller made of cotton: for soft finish the fabric is ed through cotton bowl. This roller is made up of cotton. -mid roller made of fibre: To avoid selvedge overlapping on batcher. -top roller made of steel through which steam is applied to fabric: To give smoothness and luster. The temperature is provided to steel roller about 32200 c with help of electric heater as we increase the temperature shining will increases only used for cotton CVC and percale and PC. Page | 91

4. Cooling drum: Cool down the fabric water circulates inside the cooling drum. 5. Amperometer: shows the current consumption of machine.(not working) 6. Guide rollers guide the fabric through the machine. *4000-5000 m fabric input at a time *8-9 ampere current utilized. Calendering Machine

Operating Process  Delivery of fabric rolls wrapped in plastic sheet and ticketed as „for calender‟‟ from stenter machine.  Plastic sheets unwrapped and input roll loaded manually. Checkpointrolls are loaded such that face side of fabric is in with calender rollers for softer hand and more lusture.  Machine is run applying entrance braking pressure of 25 bar.  200 N calender pressure applied on fabric.  A standard speed is maintained thereafter. Theoretical std speed50mtr/min.speed used 70mtr/min.  Checkpoints- In case machine stops due to presence of metal detected, it must be removed immediately. -Dirt found on rollers during the process are remove manually there and then. -Rollers cleaned with water after completion of rolls or according to the roll to be used next(white dyed fabric). -In case of any defect on the output roll, it must be immediately informed to the supervisor(not followed).  On completion of roll, it is wrapped with plastic sheet and ticketed as „‟for zero zero‟‟.

Page | 92

Calendering Machine Diagram

Page | 93

Zero Zero Used to impart pre determined shrinkage to fabric to reduce the progressive shrinkage during its wear.There are 2 flexa compacta machines. In sanforizing process shrinkage is achieved by ing the cotton fabric onto a movable elastic felt blanket is released it assumes a shortened conditional. Thus the cotton fabric is forced to conform this compression. The shrinkage amount of fabric is dependent on:  The nature of fibers  The character of threads  The way of interlacing of thread in the fabric.  Crimp in yarn.  Cycle of washing no. of washing. SOP of Machine Name: Speretto Rimer Year of Macturing: 2007 Standard Speed: 30mtr/min Rubber Thickness: 65-40mm Standard Rubber Blanket Temperature: 125-130⁰C Standard Woolen Felt Temperature: 130-140⁰ C Air Pressure: 4 Bar Threading Length: 30m

Components of Machine 1. Display board-with information about machine and for setting parameters as shrinkage, temperature etc. 2. Cornio-To remove bowing/skewing of fabric. 3. Porous metal roller wrapped with woolen felt.steam forced to fabric through this roll. 4. Rubber roll 5. Sprayer-to cool rubber. Page | 94

6. Heated metal roller (130⁰C) to set shrinkage. 7. Cool metal roller for fabric to relax. 8. Detectors for uniformity in width failing which machine stops immediately Safety detector- a wire which when pulled stops the machine immediately. 9. Air pipe for cleaning. Zero Zero (Sanforizing Machine) Diagram

Page | 95

Operating Process  Delivery of rolls wrapped in plastic sheet sticketed as „‟for zero zero‟‟ from calender machine or stenter machine.  Rubber blanket heated upto 130⁰C. Checkpoints o steam and air pressure checked o Hardness of rubber checked and grinded if required.  The required shrinkage is set on display board according to fabric used by operators based on their experience. Checkpoints o output fabric is observed where the shrinkage is modified if required. Zero Zero (Sanforizing) Machine  Machine cleaned using air pipe.  On completion of process, rolls wrapped in plastic sheets for folding or testing department.

Page | 96

Folding It is the process used to convert the finished fabric rolls into open width form. There are 2 folding machines available at Jaya Shree Textiles. Operating Process  Fabric is delivered wrapped in plastic sheet from zero zero machine.  Roll is unwrapped and fabric unwounded to certain length and the roll is kept to be rotating slowly.  End of fabric fixed with clamps on machine bed.  2 operators hold the fabric from both sides(widthwise).  Machine is run.  On completion of one type/color of fabric in one roll,machine is stopped and fabric is cut from the stitch area.  Cut part separated on another trolley and machine started again.  On completion of roll.All folded fabrics are loaded individually on one trolley which are the carried to testing department.

Components of Machine: Machine Bed: Folded fabric rests on the machine bed. Rods: to guide fabric on the machine bed. CAM and Follower: rotate and move the clamps Clamps: carry the free fabric from one end to other folding at both the ends.

Page | 97

Rotormat It is a machine used to impart different aesthetic effect in fabrics like cotton, linen, wool and their blends by virtue of mechanical process i . e, beating.Only yarn dyed fabrics are subjected to mechanical finish in rotormat machine after washing. There are 4 rotormat machines.

SOP of Rotormat Name: MAT De Bertoldi Made in: Italy Capacity: 6 rope x 100(600 mtr or 200kg) Liquor: 200 lit Maximum Temperature: 120°C Standard Speed: 700 mtr/min Rotormat Machine

Page | 98

Quality Control Quality control is the last procedure and can be done by the help of various physical as well as chemical tests that can help in determining whether the quality of the fabrics have met the required standards. The Quality Control at Jaya Shree Textiles can be briefly categorised into three: a. Physical lab b. Dyeing Quality Department c. Testing Quality: Quality is the essential character- nature, an ingredient or distinguishing attribute; property, a character trait, superiority of kind, degree of grade or excellence. Quality as defined by ISO (International Standards Organization): The totality of features and characteristics of a product or service that bear on its ability to satisfy stated or implied needs. Some basic quality Piece dyed quality Product Reed Ppi Warp Weft Warp Weft GSM Blen count count wt. wt. d name

Quality no.

Weave

F-1807

F 1807 Flora

48/2

56

60 lea 60 lea

9.17

9.9

116

100 %lin en

plain

F-2078

F 2078 Flora

48/2

48

50 lea 50 lea

11

10.8

129

100 %lin en

plain

Yarn dyed quality Quality no.

Product Reed Ppi Warp Weft Warp Weft GSM Blen count count wt. wt. d name

Weave

F-1451

F 1451 Amazon 44/2

44

40 lea 40 lea

12.61

11.7

148

100 %lin en

F-5003

F 5003 Anna

56

1/60 lea

9.55

9.91

118

plain 100 %%li nen

50/2

1/60 lea

Page | 99

Plain

Quality checking at different stages Departme Division nt

Checking

Method

Responsibility

Spinning quality checking Spinning

Sorting and bunching

Bunch weight

Visual checking

Checker

Hackling

Sliver weight

Visual checking

Checker

Drawing

Set weight Manual checking making

Drawing

Finisher drawing sliver and sliver strength,micro n check

Wrapping Flax spinning machine and SQC Supervisor bundle strength tester

Roving

Rove density

Measurement of SQC Supervisor yards per ounces

Supervisor

Bleaching Bleaching and Volume titration plant boiling loss

Supervisor

Ring frame

Doff weight

Supervisor

Ring frame

Yarn wrapping Wrapping Supervisor machine and weighing scale

Winding

Residual fault

Final yarn Physical inspection parameters

Manual checking

Manual winder Supervisor with cleaner Std method

Flax SQC Supervisor

Page | 100

Yarn dyeing quality checking Departme Division nt

Checking

Yarn dyeing

Yarn dyeing store

Grey material Visual checking of yarn dyeing checking whiteness index operator

Yarn dyeing

Shade checking (primary)

Under std source

light yarn dyeing supervisor

Yarn dyeing

Shade checking (secondary)

Under std source

light Deg officer

Yarn dyeing

Washing fastness

ISO 766

Fabric dyehouse supervisor

Yarn dyeing

Rubbing fastness

Not done

Not done

Yarn dyeing

Dyed yarn Tenso rapid strength check

Central operator

Yarn dyeing

Levelness(3 part checking)

Visual checking

Yarn dyeing supervisor

yarn Visual checking

Yarn dyeing supervisor

Delivery Dagi, and final damage checking

Method

Responsibility

SQC

Weaving quality checking Departme Division nt

Checking

Method

Responsibility

Weaving

Warping

Creeling

Visual checking

Warper, then checked by weaving supervisor

Warping

Denting

Visual checking

Warper, checked weaving

then by

Page | 101

supervisor Warping

Pattern checking

Visual checking

weaving supervisor

Warping

Drawing

Visual checking

weaving supervisor

Loom state

Heald check

Loom state

On loom Visual checking pattern check

Loom state

Patti checking

frame Heald layer wise weaving yarn colour supervisor

Two samples(4” , weaving 6”) cut. One supervisor checked by weaving, one checked by deg

Loom state Loom state

weaving supervisor

Weaving design supervisor

and

First piece First 50 mtsfabric Grey inspection checking neps, is checked in grey operator dhaga, knots inspection

Grey Neps,dhaga,kn inspection ots

Visual checking in Grey inspection grey inspection operator machine

Fabric Processing Quality Checking Departme Division nt

Checking

Fabric PTR( Pre Whiteness processing treatment index Range)

Method

Responsibility

CIE Scale

Lab supervisor

Page | 102

Dyeing

Shade and CS

Visually under std Lab supervisor light QA supervisor

Finishing

Checking of Std as per Lab supervisor physical customer protocol QA supervisor parameters, hand feel

Finishing

Shade grouping

Visuall Operat y or under standard light source (Primary: D-65; Secondary: CWF)

operator

Warehouse Quality Checking Departme Division nt

Checking

Warehous e

Neps, knots

Mending

Method

Responsibility

dhaga, Manual checking

Checker/supervi sor

Grading Weaving, (buyerwis processing e) fault check

Visually under std Checker/supervi light sor

Rolling and padding (buyerwis e)

Than, roll size Weighing and roll weight machine,visually checking, roll to roll shade checking

Decoratin g table and packing

Order Manually checking and buyerwise packing

Checker/supervi sor

Page | 103

Process flow of fabric from testing lab to inspection machine Fabric processhouse

Not ok Flexa compacta/zero zero Fabric samples are recorded in the lab book with sl. No. , quality, customer etc

Shrinkage,tear,te nsile strength, slippagewashing, light,rubbing fastness,etc are checked

Lab testing

ok Folding and delivery to warehouse

Process details - Finished fabric is collected from zero-zero machine and sent to fabric testing lab with lot movement card, containing quality, shade, customer, NS No., Job card no., etc. - Record fabric samples in the lab book with date, time , sl. No., quality, shade no., customer, NS. No. - Condition fabric for four hours at 21 + 2 oC temperature and 63% + 2 R.H. - Fabric tests are performed according to requirements. - If test results are „OK‟, fabric is sent to folding section with quality officer authorized signed fabric testing card and if any of the test results are „NOT OK‟, the fabrics are sent back for reproducing to the finishing department of the Fabric Process House. - No lab tests are done for less than 50 meters fabric. - For reprocessed fabric fastness (light, washing, rubbing) tests are not done.

Page | 104

Shade evaluation Shade matching and grouping - All shade matching and sorting are done under standard light of D^%, CWF, UV lights. The approved reference sample is the standard for shade continuity checking. - Maximum of five shade lots are allowed per colour subject to a minimum of 25% of the total lot quantity in each shade lot or minimum size of 500 meters. In larger deliveries (e.g., 10000 meters in one colour in bottle green) higher number of groups may be possible. Shade continuity Shade continuity within each roll is evaluated by assessing the shade variation between: - Side to center variation (CSV) - Roll to roll

Flame retardent machine or tester This test is carried on the flame retardant fabric which is manufactured for Indian Railways only. There are different types of test are there to check the flame retardancy of the fabric as: Vertical test (IS – 11871 methods)  45 degree angle test (UCI – 564 methods)  Limiting Oxygen Index (IS – 13510 methods)  Determination of visibility due to smoke  Toxicity

Flammability tester

45 degree angle test ( UC1564) In this test, all the processes are same as vertical test except the angle of flames are in 45 degrees.

Page | 105

Detoriation of visibility due to smoke (UCI564) This test is performed to check the smoke for each fibre. Gas chromatography is used and special type of tubes is also used. And by this method, we can also find the density of smoke of each fibre respectively. It takes more time as well as it needs more patience from the operator. Visibility detoriation test equipment

Toxicity This test is carried out to find out the toxic gases which come after burning of the fibre. There are total 14 different types of toxic gases as well as different types of tube are also used to find out the gas. Here, the flame temperature should be 1200 degree Celsius +- 100 degree Celsius. Toxicity tester

Page | 106

Physical lab Equipments in the physical lab Cone or core tester  Model: Digital  Serial number: CONE/CORE COMPR. 2007-374  Year of manufacture: 2007  Make: Ubique system  Calibration method: IS 1828 (Part-1):2005 in compression  Ref. certificate number: JST/2013-076  CAP -500 kgf Mettle electronic balance  Make: Mettler, Switzerland  Model: AE-160  Application: Precise weighing  Maximum capacity – 160 gms  Resolution: 0.0001 gms

Wrap reel  Name of the machine : Wrap Reel  Identification number : 2  Make of the machine : MAG Solvics Private Limited, Coimbatore, India  Display Capacity : 1 to 9999 Rotation  Model number : MAG – C 1051 Wrap Reel  Application : Length measurement for determination of yarn count.

Mettle electroniuc balance

Page | 107

Uster Tensorapid – 4 [UTR -4]  Name of the machine : USTER TENSORAPID – 4[UTR -4]  Identification number : 6  Make of the machine : USTER TECHNOLOGIES AG USTER/SWITZERLAND  Application: the USTER TENSORAPID – 4 is a tensile testing installation for the quality control in the textile industry. The determined values for the tensile force and the elongation percentage  Measuring principle – constant rate of extension CRE  Testing mode - simple tensile test, elongation percentage

Uster tensorapid

 Force measuring range – 0.01 N – 500 N  Measuring accuracy – For force & Elongation measurement +-1% order +- 1 cN Air Flow Meter  Name: air flow tester  Make: US Testing co. Inc., USA  Model: 9025  Application: Air permeability test  Technical specification: 1 to 70 CUFt./minute/ Sq. Ft. at 0.5 inch pressure drop Checking of Chemical Dosing in CBR In bleaching of fabrics there are two important dosing parameters:  Dosing of Hydrogen peroxide  Dosing of caustic Test: Colour Fastness to washing (Test method: AATCC 61A)  Equipment: Infrared Dryer  Make: Logic art Test: Colourfastness to crocking or rubbing (Test Method: AATCC 8) Equipment: Paramount Manual Crockmeter It is done both for dry as well as wet rubbing. Page | 108

Test: Residual Shrinkage % (Test method: AATCC 135) Equipment: PARAMOUNT Accushrink scale; IFB washing machine; Tumble drier; Flat bed press) The dimensional changes of the fabric specimen subjected to typical home laundering and drying practices are measured using pairs of benchmarks applied to the fabric before laundering. Test: Tear Strength (in lbs) (Test Method: ASTM D 1424) Equipment: Elmendorf tearing strength tester Make: PARAMOUNT Checking of dye: Silicate ratio in Kuster To avoid variation in dyeing dye: Silicate ratio is to be checked everyday before running the machine. If dye:silicate ratio is not 4:1, then check dosing assembly with the help of maintenance department. Checking of core pH Core pH is checked of each and every lot of piece dyed fabric before finishing avoiding any shade variation. The required value of core pH is 6.0-6.5. if core pH is not as per requirement the goods will be taken for reprocessing. Operating procedure of Datacolour Spectrophotometer (CCM) Measurement of Whiteness index.  Measurement of colour difference (dE).  Recipe prediction Recipe prediction: 1. Go to “DataColor Tools”. Insert name and . 2. If it is already calibrated then change the settings to “UV 100%” and “Specular Include”. 3. If not, then calibrate the CCM with the said setting and appropriate aperture. 4. Press “recipe” button. 5. Then, go to the button marked with a flower or press F5. Measure the standard directly. 6. Select the dyestuffs. 7. Check the appropriate light source. 8. Press the “Calculate” button. 9. The recipe will be in gm/kg. Select appropriate recipe with low metamerism. Page | 109

10. Note the recipe in the and go back to main page to “DataColot Match”. Precaution to take while using CCM: 1. For every time, don‟t forget to switch on CCM and computer simultaneously. 2. For every measurement, always check if the CCM is calibrated or not. 3. Always keep proper setting for measurement of white and dyed samples, i.e., Specular Include/ Exclude and UV %, etc. 4. Set the aperture as per the size of the sample to be measured. 5. CCM is to be calibrated for each aperture. 6. Do not go in any portion of the software which is unknown.

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Finished Fabric Testing Report

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Dyeing Quality Department  Fibre Dye Lab  Fabric Dye Lab

Fibre Dye Lab In this lab, operators make the recipe of dye according to the shade cards which is going to used for dyeing the fibre at production floor. Earlier this process took 15 days (approx) but nowadays this process takes not more 1 day at any cost. In this lab there are some machines as follows:  Spectrophotometer  Autolab  Solution maker  Ahiba nuance  Colour matching machine Spectrophotometer This is a machine which identifies the shade of the sample. It takes recipe from the database. But the operator has to choose the best recipe of dyes materials. Autolab This machine is used for error prevention while using materials for making dye solution. It measures accurately the components of the solution. Solution maker This machine is used for solution making which is used for dyeing the samples.

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Ahiba nuance This machine can makes 14 different solutions at a single time.

Colour matching machine After dyeing the fabric, the dyed fabric should wash and then dried in dryer, then the samples are matching for the shade attenuation level. There are 4 different types of light in this machine which is used for colour matching and they are DL-84, D-84, UV and fluorescent light.

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Fabric dye lab In this lab, all the operation is performed before the production. All quality parameters are checked thoroughly in the lab itself. These are machines which are present in the fabric dyeing lab are as follows: Dispenser This machine is used for taking recipe accurately as required and there is a proper ratio of colour and silicates i.e. 1:4. Padding mangle It is dyeing equipments which are used for dyeing the samples. Colour matching After dyeing the samples, they are washed and dried properly and then the colour of samples are matching under different types of lights are as: daylight, cool white, TL-84, incandescent, horizon and ultra violet light. Checking of RFD Fabric (Dyeing) Before dyeing of each and every batch there is a process of checking the RFD (Ready for Dyeing) fabric by means of its absorbency, whiteness index, peroxide content, pH, starch content and OBA (Optical Brightening Agent) content, C/S (Centre-to-Selvedge) variation. Checking of DLC To check the colour prepared for dyeing is OK or NOT OK, there is a process called DLC checking. The method is as follows: 1. Take colour from bulk dyeing tank and RFD fabric from the same batch. 2. Pad sample in Mathis Padder in lab with bulk colour solution and bulk fabric. 3. Take 100ml water in microwave oven box. 4. Put the sample on the loosely on the box and cover it. Put the box in microwave. 5. Set the microwave with power level 450 and time 5.0 minutes and start. 6. After 5 minutes, take out the sample, wash it, dry it and check the shade. 7. If the shade is OK, then go for bulk dyeing. 8. If the shade is NOT OK, then give necessary addition in the tank. Only dyeing in-charge or any authorized personnel should check the DLC sample and give addition if required. Page | 114

Checking of shade and C/S After dyeing of each and every batch and before finishing, there is a process called shade and C/S checking. Every piece dyed shade should be checked visually as well as with the help of CCM against party cuttings or approved labdips before finishing. In case of CCM colour difference (dE) should be<1. If the shade is not matched, then batch will be taken for re-dyeing. Only matched shade will be considered OK for finishing. C/S of each batch should also be OK. Shade should be checked by HOD or dyeing in-charge or any authorized person. Test: Colourfastness to perspiration (Test Method: AATCC 15) Equipment: Perspirometer (Model: M231); Make: SD ATLAS Ltd. Specimen size: 40mmx100mm Test: Colourfastness to light-20 AFU (Test Method: AATCC 16E) Equipment: Water-cooled machine or Xenon arc lamp (ATLAS Cl 3000 + XENON ARC WEATHER-O-METER) The resistance of a material to a change in its colour characteristics as a result of exposure of the material to sunlight or an artificial light source is measured. Exposure Conditions  Black temperature: 63 + 1oC  Dry bulb temperature: 43 + 2oC  Relative humidity: 30 + 5 %  Total number of segments: 1  Duration time: Irradiance  Controlling back sensor: BPT  Black temperature must be active.  Irradiance/wattage: 1.10 W/m2  Cycle: Light  Duration: 85 kJ/m2 (Approximately: 22 hrs)  Specimen spray: Off  Rack spray: Off  Xenon lamp filters: Inner (Sodium borosilicate); Outer (Soda lime) Specific amount of exposure made under the specified condition, where one AFU is 1/20th of the light on exposure required to produce a colour change equal to step 4 on the grey scale (AATCC L-series) for colour change or 1.73 + 0.3 CIELAB units of colour difference on AATCC blue wool light fastness standard L4.

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Test: Measurement of Core pH (Test Method: AATCC 81) Equipment: 1. PARAMOUNT pH meter with 0.1 unit graduations 2. Buffer solutions pH 4.0 and 7.0. Calibration: Calibrate the pH meter according to the manufacturer‟s instructions. Specimen: Use a 10 + 0.1 g specimen of the material to be tested. Test: Tensile Strength (in kg) (Test method: ASTM D 5034:1995) Equipment: universal Testing Machine (Tinius Olsen, model: H10KS by SDLATLAS) Tolerance limit is: For below 110 GSM: 10.0 kg for warp and 9.0 kg for weft For above 110 GSM: 15.0 kg for warp and 13.0 kg for weft Test: Pilling resistance (Martindale) (Test Method-4970) Equipment: Martindale pilling and abrasion tester (Model M235) Make: SDL ATLAS Ltd. The degree of pilling should be assessed using the following 5-point scale: 5 – No pilling 4 – Slight pilling 3 – Moderate pilling 2 – Severe pilling 1 – Very severe pilling When appearance falls between two of the descriptions given above half values may be given. Test: Abrasion resistance (Martindale) (ASTM D 4966) Equipment: Martindale pilling and abrasion tester (Model M235) Make: SDL ATLAS Ltd.

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Test: Water repellency: Spray test (Test method: AATCC 22-2001) Equipment: AATCC spray tester, beaker, distilled water RATING CHART 100 (ISO 5) – No sticking or wetting of upper surface 90 (ISO 4) – Slight random sticking or wetting of upper surface 80 (ISO 3) – Wetting of upper surface at spray points 70 (ISO 2) – Partial wetting of whole of upper surface 50 (ISO 1) – Complete wetting of whole of upper surface 0 (ISO 0) – Complete wetting of whole of upper and lower surface Test: Oil repellency: Hydrocarbon resistance test (Test method: AATCC 118-2002) Equipment: Test liquids prepared and numbered according to the table, dropping bottles, white AATCC textile blotting paper. AATCC OIL REPELLENCY GRADE COMPOSITION NUMBER 0 1 2

None (fails kaydol) Kaydol 65:35 Kaydol:n-hexadecane by volume

3 4 5 6 7 8

n-hexadecane n-tetradecane n-dodecane n- decane n-octane n- heptanes

A failure occurs when three or more of the five drops applied from a given test liquid show complete wetting or wicking with loss of angle. A occurs if three or more of the five drops applied show clear, well rounded appearances with high angle. Test: Determination of the flammability and flame resistance of textile fabric (Test method: IS: 11871-1986 Method A) Equipment: Vertical Flame Resistance Tester by B.T.R.A.

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Test: Protective clothing- Protection against heat and flame (Test method: BS EN 532-1995) - Limited Flame Spread Equipment: Horizontal Flame Resistance Tester Gas used: Commercial grade propane gas Testing atmosphere: Perform the tests in an atmosphere having a temperature between 10oC and 30oC, a relative humidity between 15% and 80% and air movement less than 0.2 m/s. Test: Method for determining fire – Resistance of coated and uncoated textiles (Test Method: UIC 564-2) Equipment: 45o Angle Flammability tester Test: Method determining deterioration of visibility due to smoke released on combustion of materials (Test Method: UIC 564-2) Equipment: Deterioration of visibility due to smoke released tester Test: Determination of flammability by oxygen index (Method: IS: 135011992) Equipment: L.O.I test equipment by S.C.Dey & Co.

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Warehouse The warehouse at Jaya Shree Textiles contributes to two of the basic features:  Inspection of Grey Fabric  Inspection of Finished Fabric and Packaging Inspection is the last procedure to check for any faults before the fabrics are shipped out. Inspection is the process of checking the lengths of fabrics visually or with the help of an inspection table. Significance of inspection Inspection of the fabrics helps in preventing overlooking of the errors that may have been left out. Inspection defined by ISO (International Standards Organization): The purpose of inspection is to make a sound judgement on the disposition of a material or product, whether to accept or reject it. What is done with a rejected lot may be a matter of negotiation between a buyer and seller.

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Inspection Levels at Jaya Shree Textiles Division

Checking

Method

Responsibility

Mending

Neps, Dhaga, Knots

Manual Checking

Checker/ Supervisor

Grading (Buyer wise)

Weaving, processing, Checking

Rolling and Padding (Buyer wise)

Than, roll size and Weighing weight checking, machine, visually roll to roll Shade checking

Visually (Under fault standard light)

Decorating Table Order checking and Packing and buyer wise checking

Manually

Checker/ Supervisor Checker

Packer or Data Operator or Supervisor

American 4-point inspection system The 4-point system, also called American Manufacturers Association (AAMA) point grading system for determination of fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel fabrics. Size of Defect (Length in Inches)

No. Of Penalty Points

3 inches or less

1

Over 3 inches but less than 6 inches

2

Over 6 inches but less than 9 inches

3

Over 9 inches

4

Holes and dimensions)

Openings

(largest No. Of Penalty Points

1 inch or less

2

Over 1 inch

4

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Total defect points/100 yd2 are calculated and normally those fabric rolls containing more than 40 points/100 yd2 are considered seconds. Notes:  Fabric will be inspected only on the side designated as the face by the mill.  Fabric will be inspected for spinning or weaving or processing defects and stains, holes, etc., and are graded according to the quality to grade A and B.  No more than four points can be assigned to any 1m of fabric. All defects must be flagged at the selvedge such that the flag can be detected from either the back or face of the fabric during spreading and points are documented.  The maximum points allowed per 100 linear meters: 30  The maximum no. of 4 points allowed per 100 linear meters: 4  No. of holes allowed per 100 linear meters: 3  Average points per lot per 100 linear meters: 25  Any holes will be penalized four points.  One type of defect resulting in single point allowed: 15 per 100 linear meters  A repeating defect of 2 meters and above should not be allowed; otherwise the roll should be rejected.  Minimum roll length: 20 meters  Four point inspection system is applicable for both PD and YD quality, only for RMD.

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Inspection of Grey Fabric Grey Fabric

Grey fabric received from weaving

Should match with technical sheets

Inspection on m/c using 4point system

Upto 3”-1, upto 6-2, upto 9-3, 9 and above 4 point system

Sending fabric to mending with marking

Mender should follow making during mending

After mending fabric sent to rolling m/c

Yarn dyed fabric sent to folding m/c

After making roll, fold sent to grey packing

Folded fabric sent to yarn dyed location

Grey packed fabric sent to rack with location

From yarn dyed location, job card wise fabric issue to process

From rack, job card wise fabric issue to process

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Warehouse Machines at Jaya Shree Textiles Two types of inspection machines are used: 1. Three Grading cum Padding Machines: MAKE: True Shape MODEL: Master 2. Five Inspection cum Rolling Machines: MAKE: True Shape MODEL: Master - All fabrics are inspected on a inspection machine or frame equipped with a variable speed motor as well as meter for measuring roll lengths. Frame is tilted so that fabric es at an angle between 45o and 60o off horizontal. During inspection, the inspector must be able to stand at an appropriate distance from inspection frame to ensure best possible visibility of fabric shading and defects. - The frame is lighted with a minimum of two TLF-84 tubes parallel to each other and perpendicular to the direction of fabric movement. The lights should be four feet away from the section of fabric being inspected. The lights must also be directly above the viewing area, at an angle of 60o. - All machines have digital meter to calculate the total length of the fabric.

Inspection cum Rolling Machine

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Fabric Double Rolling Machine: Feed: Loose, Batch woven linen fabrics Delivery: Rolled woven linen fabrics Fabric Double Rolling Machine is a highly efficient tool for folding the fabric with care. Original length and width is always maintained. Folding reduces transportation and increases production. Features:  Doubling, rolling, measuring any type of fabrics with inlet from plait/ loose fabrics, rolls or batchers and with outlet on rolls.  For proper folding, special systems for thin and sensitive fabrics.  Automatic alignment of selvedge on the doubling triangle with very sensitive and precise photo- electric guide.  Reliable measuring with electronic calibrated counter meter system.  Hard or loose folding feature, due to torque controlled, from inlet of fabric to end of the roll.  Automatic printing on selvedge, checking table, printing of measuring – Optional  Linear Fabric Roll End Cutter - Optional.

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Inspection of Finished Fabric Process Flow Chart of Inspection of Finished Fabric

OTC Y/Ds/White/PD's

Inspection and Grading

Fresh Fabric

Stitching

Padding (M/C)

Decoration

Packing

Bar-Code

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Step 1. Grading- This is divided into two parts- hand grading and machine grading.

In hand grading the fabric was inspected for defects and if any defect is found they mark it and send the fabric back to process house. In machine grading they use roller inspection machines for inspecting any type of defect.

Grading Machine

Step 2. Stitching- This is done to make rolls for buyers. Some buyers want the fabric in roll form and then stitching is done.

Making Than in Padding Mangle.

Step 3. Padding- This is done for retailers who want the cloth in Than form. The padding machine folds the cloth and makes than out of it.

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Figure 3Packed Fabrics

Decoration Table

Step 4. Decoration table- Here decoration is done i.e. the folded or rolled fabric is packed and tags and labels are attached to it.

Bale Packaging

Step 5. Packaging and bale packing- The finished products are then packed and stored for retail and the rest is sold as per order.

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Step 6. Barcoding- The bales are scanned and their information is stored in SAP.

Bar Coding

Software used in Barcoding

After all these steps the fabric is sent to respective buyers and some are stored for retail purpose.

Packages Stored for Retail Purpose

Packaging Check The packing requirements of the roll nos./ bale nos., piece length and piece nos. with the contractual specifications are checked. The mode of packaging, i.e., Hessian/H.D.P.E or polythene sheet is compared.

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Learning Interesting Facts  A thorough knowledge of the industrial environment.  A thorough knowledge of the manufacturing processes in details.  The practical knowledge about all of the machines is known in details.  Practical knowledge about the tests and the quality control procedures.  Practical observation of the workings of the machines. 1. What is done with yarn rags that break during winding? There was a chamber below the monitor screen of Autoconer with clear glass where all the yarns that break due to unevenness get collected. The operator emptied the chamber when it got filled and collected all the rags in a container. We thought that it could be nothing more than waste and they would probably sell it in scrap. But, to our amazement, it was sold at a price much higher that we had imagined. As we know that currency paper is made from 75% cotton and 25% linen. So these rags are sent to the currency paper making industry. Moreover, the currency paper is not technically a paper, but a fabric which has warp, weft, and is woven and desized. 2. Why vat dyeing is done during night time? The workers generally dye using vat in the night shift. I realized this when I had to get few cones dyed in vat as a part of my project. Later, I got this doubt cleared. Actually, while dyeing in reactive dyes, the machine has to be opened after a couple of hours and the shade is checked to ensure that so far the dyeing has took place properly, and whether or not any ingredients need to be increased or removed. So, a supervisor and his team have to be present. Naturally, it is more convenient in the day time. Whereas, vat dyeing involves a complex cycle of making the dye soluble and then insoluble. So, it cannot be controlled even if checked in between. That‟s why vat dyeing is preferred in the night time as it does not require monitoring.

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3. What is Delave effect? The winding of yarn on cheeses is done in such a way that they overlap and intersect other yarns at an acute angle. At those overlapping points, the penetration of dye is less, whereas it is more at other points. This creates a “patchy” effect in the fabric produced, which is a characteristic feature of linen. This is known as “Delave” effect.

Delave Effect

Cupping of Cones

4. Cupping of cones for vat dyeing The most compact part of any package is edges or shoulders, where the yarn turns the corner and this is the most difficult place to wet out and to penetrate. Incomplete penetration will cause will cause it to dye lighter or not at all, Cupping or crimping is the only workable solution to this problem. The edges are rounded by applying pressure from hands.

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5. Innovation by Aditya Birla: Conveyer belt below carding machine The conveyer belt below the carding machine collects the noile (short fibres) that is separated from Tow. This noile is used to make ropes and as filling in car seats.

Conveyer Belt below Carding Machine

6. Motion of hands to detect which drop wire has dropped The series of drop wires can be moved flowingly by the motion of hands. But at the place where the wire has dropped, there is an obstruction. Thus the exact position can be located.

Motion of hands to detect dropped wire

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7. Weaver’s knot: When any warp yarn breaks during weaving, it has to be tied. The knot used is not a simple knot but a weaver‟s knot in which the two yarns are so tightly fixed that they cannot slip, and also the length of tails are minimum. 8. Keeping fishes in the final treated water at ETP: The employees at Jayashree keep fishes in the treated water, to show the effectiveness of their treatment, that the water is so clean that fishes are alive in it. 9. Transportation devices These power-driven chargeable Voltas transportation device, with a capacity of 3 tonnes were used in the plant for transportation of materials. A fully charged vehicle has a back-up time of 8 hours.

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Bibliography     

Information collected through Industry Observation Jaya Shree Textiles official website Handbook on testing at Jaya Shree Textiles Wikipedia Industry Reports at Quality Control Department

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